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Just Bob
 
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Default Plywood v.s. solid wood

I am planning on building the tower bookcase from woodsmith. It is
76X12x16. The plans call for using 3/4" cherry plywood with solid
wood edging and trim and 1/4" plywood back. I plan on using red oak
instead. I can get a 3/4 sheet of red oak plywood for about $55 but I
have a supply of dry solid red oak that is costing me 35 cents a bf
for 1x8 in about 10 foot lengths. So it would be cheaper to use the
solid wood. If I use the solid oak I will still get a sheet of 1/4"
for the back.

Another option is to use elm that is costing $1 a bf so it is still
cheaper but I would need to resaw the 1/4 back panel cause I have no
source for elm plywood. However I do like how the elm looks.

It will be more work to prep the solid stock and I am concerned about
the solid stuff being affected by humidity etc.

Any opinions from you wreckers?

As always thanks in advance for ideas.
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Renata
 
Posts: n/a
Default Plywood v.s. solid wood

Or make it in two sections so that you can slide the upper piece onto
the lower piece. Worked on the floor to ceiling cabinets in the
kitchen I made. Alternatively, shorten them as Ramsey suggests, then
add crown molding (moving it will become a bit of a hassle).

Renata

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:54:53 -0500, Ramsey
wrote:
--snip--
Word of caution but you won't need it. NEVER make them 8' high because
you can't tilt them upright in an 8' ceiling rooom. I made mine 7'-8"
to be safe. I might try to put some beading on the vertical pieces
this time.


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Bill Wallace
 
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Default Plywood v.s. solid wood

I think everyone would suggest the Oak board lumber, especially at
that price. Can I get some too?

Red Oak does move some but usually not to bad, and once it's built
into a box it will behave. A few pointers that can help are to let the
wood get acclimated to your shop for as long as possible and let it
set as much as possible between milling operations. Once you cut some
fresh edges, it can move on you in the next day or so. Use biscuits to
help with alignment and keep it from slipping in the future. Don't
over pressure the clamps. Use flattener boards across the faces at
least while clamping up, you can put masking tape on the faces of the
flatteners to minimize their sticking to the squeeze out. Finally,
once you have panels, never lay them flat where only one side is
exposed, always stand them against a wall, etc. Once it's built make
sure to finish all faces with whatever you prefer to minimize moisture
changes in the wood.

BW

Just Bob wrote in message . ..
I am planning on building the tower bookcase from woodsmith. It is
76X12x16. The plans call for using 3/4" cherry plywood with solid
wood edging and trim and 1/4" plywood back. I plan on using red oak
instead. I can get a 3/4 sheet of red oak plywood for about $55 but I
have a supply of dry solid red oak that is costing me 35 cents a bf
for 1x8 in about 10 foot lengths. So it would be cheaper to use the
solid wood. If I use the solid oak I will still get a sheet of 1/4"
for the back.

Another option is to use elm that is costing $1 a bf so it is still
cheaper but I would need to resaw the 1/4 back panel cause I have no
source for elm plywood. However I do like how the elm looks.

It will be more work to prep the solid stock and I am concerned about
the solid stuff being affected by humidity etc.

Any opinions from you wreckers?

As always thanks in advance for ideas.

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Just Bob
 
Posts: n/a
Default Plywood v.s. solid wood

"Swingman" wrote:

That's mighty cheap red oak. How's it sawn and what's the moisture content?
If you don't know the answer to that, you might want to proceed with caution
on your plans to use solid wood side panels.


The oak is from 200 year old trees(ring count) and was salvaged from
huge beams in a 100 year old barn. The guy I get it from resaws the
stuff after he salvages it. After 100 years hanging it's dry. Very
beautiful wood. I've made a few small things and no problem so far
but was wondering about something this size.
  #5   Report Post  
Swingman
 
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Default Plywood v.s. solid wood

In that case, proceed with abandon.

BTW, you suck ... big time!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/16/03

"Just Bob" wrote in message
"Swingman" wrote:

That's mighty cheap red oak. How's it sawn and what's the moisture

content?
If you don't know the answer to that, you might want to proceed with

caution
on your plans to use solid wood side panels.


The oak is from 200 year old trees(ring count) and was salvaged from
huge beams in a 100 year old barn. The guy I get it from resaws the
stuff after he salvages it. After 100 years hanging it's dry. Very
beautiful wood. I've made a few small things and no problem so far
but was wondering about something this size.





  #6   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default Plywood v.s. solid wood

Ditto.
The only other thing I'll add is that I'd go with birch ply for the back
because it's cheaper and you're not really gonna see it.
For this reason, I use the same thing on my shelves as well.
The facings and sides are the main highlights.
Of course, for a knick-knack shelf, that all goes out the window.
Mark from Pasadena, MD


Bill Wallace wrote:
I think everyone would suggest the Oak board lumber, especially at
that price. Can I get some too?

Red Oak does move some but usually not to bad, and once it's built
into a box it will behave. A few pointers that can help are to let the
wood get acclimated to your shop for as long as possible and let it
set as much as possible between milling operations. Once you cut some
fresh edges, it can move on you in the next day or so. Use biscuits to
help with alignment and keep it from slipping in the future. Don't
over pressure the clamps. Use flattener boards across the faces at
least while clamping up, you can put masking tape on the faces of the
flatteners to minimize their sticking to the squeeze out. Finally,
once you have panels, never lay them flat where only one side is
exposed, always stand them against a wall, etc. Once it's built make
sure to finish all faces with whatever you prefer to minimize moisture
changes in the wood.

BW

Just Bob wrote in message . ..

I am planning on building the tower bookcase from woodsmith. It is
76X12x16. The plans call for using 3/4" cherry plywood with solid
wood edging and trim and 1/4" plywood back. I plan on using red oak
instead. I can get a 3/4 sheet of red oak plywood for about $55 but I
have a supply of dry solid red oak that is costing me 35 cents a bf
for 1x8 in about 10 foot lengths. So it would be cheaper to use the
solid wood. If I use the solid oak I will still get a sheet of 1/4"
for the back.

Another option is to use elm that is costing $1 a bf so it is still
cheaper but I would need to resaw the 1/4 back panel cause I have no
source for elm plywood. However I do like how the elm looks.

It will be more work to prep the solid stock and I am concerned about
the solid stuff being affected by humidity etc.

Any opinions from you wreckers?

As always thanks in advance for ideas.


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