This is probably more appropriate for the woodworking group, but I'll cast
my line out and see what happens.

The finish on my cabinets is a badly worn varnish. I say varnish because
its a flaky yellowish crystaline substance from the 1960's over plywood.
After removing the varnish from the cabinet boards I notice that the cabinet
isn't a natural wood color so I'm assuming it was stained. My question is
what kind of a finish would be best for wood like this?

It's not like its raw plywood or something, it has a nice hard smooth finish
so being unfamiliar with plywood construction I can only assume its a
hardwood laminate or similar material.

I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to seal
or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color and
simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands, kitchen
smoke, traffic, etc..)

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks, but
something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the kitchen.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
This is probably more appropriate for the woodworking group, but I'll cast
my line out and see what happens.

The finish on my cabinets is a badly worn varnish. I say varnish because
its a flaky yellowish crystaline substance from the 1960's over plywood.
After removing the varnish from the cabinet boards I notice that the
cabinet isn't a natural wood color so I'm assuming it was stained. My
question is what kind of a finish would be best for wood like this?

It's not like its raw plywood or something, it has a nice hard smooth
finish so being unfamiliar with plywood construction I can only assume its
a hardwood laminate or similar material.

I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to
seal or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color
and simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands,
kitchen smoke, traffic, etc..)

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks,
but something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the
kitchen.

There are many ways to go. Take some photos and go to a good paint store
and get some recommendations. Things to consider:

1/ cost
2/ durability
3/ ease of preparation and application (can a DIYer get a good result)
4/ smell (some modern finishes are just awful)

http://www.trtube.com/izle.php?v=yoeavtxpfo

"Eigenvector" wrote in message news:JZOdneGS-
I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to
seal or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color
and simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands,
kitchen smoke, traffic, etc..)

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks,
but something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the
kitchen.

Linseed oil would not be flammable once cured,but is still a poor choice for
a kitchen. I'd go with a polyurethane as it is easy to clean.

It's probably varnish, as you suspect. So, it's oil based, being of
that vintage. Using any waterbased product over it will likely not be
satisfactory.
I would remove the doors/drawers, take them out of the kitchen
(outside?) and sand them to remove the varnish coat. If you are OK
with present stain color, then recoat with an oil based polyurethane.
If you want a different shade or color, You may have to resort to
stripping it all, then sanding.
Even if you apply an oil based paint, you will need to sand away the
varnish coat first.
Whatever you decide, the face frames will have to have the same
treatment, of course.
good luck!!
Gene

On Mar 17, 1:31 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
This is probably more appropriate for thewoodworkinggroup, but I'll cast
my line out and see what happens.

The finish on my cabinets is a badly worn varnish. I say varnish because
its a flaky yellowish crystaline substance from the 1960's over plywood.
After removing the varnish from the cabinet boards I notice that the cabinet
isn't a natural wood color so I'm assuming it was stained. My question is
what kind of a finish would be best for wood like this?

It's not like its raw plywood or something, it has a nice hard smooth finish
so being unfamiliar with plywood construction I can only assume its a
hardwood laminate or similar material.

I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to seal
or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color and
simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands, kitchen
smoke, traffic, etc..)

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks, but
something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the kitchen.

"DZIN" wrote in message
oups.com...
It's probably varnish, as you suspect. So, it's oil based, being of
that vintage. Using any waterbased product over it will likely not be
satisfactory.
I would remove the doors/drawers, take them out of the kitchen
(outside?) and sand them to remove the varnish coat. If you are OK
with present stain color, then recoat with an oil based polyurethane.
If you want a different shade or color, You may have to resort to
stripping it all, then sanding.
Even if you apply an oil based paint, you will need to sand away the
varnish coat first.
Whatever you decide, the face frames will have to have the same
treatment, of course.
good luck!!
Gene


I've removed the varnish from my test piece (a while back not today), Citrus
Strip seemed to do a perfectly adequate job, so whatever's on there can't be
too tough. I'll go with a polyeurothane as was suggested and keep the
original color.

On Mar 17, 1:31 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
This is probably more appropriate for thewoodworkinggroup, but I'll cast
my line out and see what happens.

The finish on my cabinets is a badly worn varnish. I say varnish because
its a flaky yellowish crystaline substance from the 1960's over plywood.
After removing the varnish from the cabinet boards I notice that the
cabinet
isn't a natural wood color so I'm assuming it was stained. My question
is
what kind of a finish would be best for wood like this?

It's not like its raw plywood or something, it has a nice hard smooth
finish
so being unfamiliar with plywood construction I can only assume its a
hardwood laminate or similar material.

I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to
seal
or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color and
simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands, kitchen
smoke, traffic, etc..)

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks,
but
something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the kitchen.

In article , "Eigenvector" wrote:

I've removed the varnish from my test piece (a while back not today), Citrus
Strip seemed to do a perfectly adequate job, so whatever's on there can't be
too tough. I'll go with a polyeurothane as was suggested and keep the
original color.

Some suggestions...

Use a good quality, full gloss, oil based poly. Apply with
a good foam brush -- the Wooster's sold at Lowes are
excellent and very inexpensive. Stir (don't shake) the
poly and thin it with mineral spirits if that helps.

Apply about 4 coats, waiting about 24 hours for each one
to dry. Sand *very* lightly between coats with 400 grit.

After the final coat wait a few days for a full cure.
Then, if you want to knock down the plastic-like look,
rub the new finish with 0000 steel wool and some good
quality wax. It will make it silky smooth but not glossy.

If you're careful and patient, you'll have a really
professional looking finish. I used this protocol on
some beaten-up kitchen cabinets and the final result
was simply wonderful. The striping/sanding is a pain
but everything else is pretty quick and easy to do
right.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On Mar 17, 9:43 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article , "Eigenvector" wrote:
I've removed the varnish from my test piece (a while back not today), Citrus
Strip seemed to do a perfectly adequate job, so whatever's on there can't be
too tough. I'll go with a polyeurothane as was suggested and keep the
original color.

Some suggestions...

Use a good quality, full gloss, oil based poly. Apply with
a good foam brush -- the Wooster's sold at Lowes are
excellent and very inexpensive. Stir (don't shake) the
poly and thin it with mineral spirits if that helps.

Apply about 4 coats, waiting about 24 hours for each one
to dry. Sand *very* lightly between coats with 400 grit.

After the final coat wait a few days for a full cure.
Then, if you want to knock down the plastic-like look,
rub the new finish with 0000 steel wool and some good
quality wax. It will make it silky smooth but not glossy.

If you're careful and patient, you'll have a really
professional looking finish. I used this protocol on
some beaten-up kitchen cabinets and the final result
was simply wonderful. The striping/sanding is a pain
but everything else is pretty quick and easy to do
right.

Card scraper did the job for me last set of kitchen cabinet fronts
I was paid to strip. Prepare to file the edge every 2 minutes (no
hook needed), but even then, it's faster than anything short of a
hot lye bath.

On Mar 17, 4:31 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks, but
something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the kitchen.

Use poly or alkyd enamel paint. Prob with linseed is it takes about a
year
to fully cure, during which time it'll absorb whatever cooking fumes
you
have floating about your kitchen.