My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.

Locutus wrote:

My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.


Home handyman's mainly inexpensive, sorta works, block plane.
OK for knocking off edges and scraping paint.

charlie b

I have one of those, I think I bought it for something under $15.00. Very
cheap, not very good.
It looks like a Stanley, or a Record 9 1/2 block plane. There are low angle
block planes for about $30.00 USD that are better.

I did tune up my block plane (that looks like the link you gave) once, took
about 12 hours, as I recall, to flatten out the bottom, Square up the mouth,
and attempt to put a edge on the blade. The result was simply not worth the
effort. The more expensive block plane, as in the link below, took less
time to tune up, and took a good sharp edge and stayed sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-920.../dp/B0000223QY
note the screw feed for cutter depth, front brass adjustment for mouth
opening, and better all around machining.

WIKI (What I Know Is): before motorized miter cutting tools, miters were cut
with a hand back saw and a miter box. A 45 degree cut was close but never
on the money. For framing carpentry, like door frames, since a block plane
can be used to cut end grain, it was used to match the two ends of the 45
degree miters to form a tight 90 with no gaps. Back in the days when Bob V.
worked with Norm on This Old House, the technique was demonstrated once.
Trust me, a motorized miter saw is WAY better method of cutting miters.

(Soap box warning!! Soap Box Warning!!)
The tool you have is one of those inexpensive tools that came out in the
1970s and 1980s that basically just made the users frustrated. It would not
do the job that similar tools a generation before could do. Since this was
before the Internet, and yes even before Woodsmith Magazine got rolling with
a full head of steam. The person who bought one of these was on their own
to some degree to figure out that it took a lot of effort in correcting
manufacturing errors to get the tool to function correctly. That turned off
a lot of would-be weekend wood workers.

During the Hyper-Inflation of the 1970s almost everything doubled or
tripled in price. So too did the cost of good hand tools. But the
manufactures came out with lines of tools that held the old prices, but were
worth just what you paid for them or maybe even less. This ran from back
saws, planes, and even wood chisels. Most of these junk tools have
disappeared, since power hand tools have mostly replaced hand tools.
Quality hand tools are still available, and it still takes a full day to
tune up any new plane and sharpen the blade. And that will never change, at
least I pray it won't.

So to answer your original un-asked question: If the plane your father gave
you has someone's investment of a day or two to tuning it up once a long
time ago, it may be worth the effort for you to do honor to that person by
keeping it tuned up and a good sharp edge. If no one ever tuned it up, it
is
not worth much, except as a teaching tool for you to learn how to tune up
a plane, sharpen a plane blade, and learn to adjust cutting depth by
banging
on the front or back with a small hammer.

(Excuse me, I need to get the soap box back to the store.)

Good luck with you tool.

Phil

"Locutus" wrote in message
...
My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and
is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.

So, now that Phil-in-MI has made you believe that it is totally worthless,
send it to me and I will have it making fine curlies in less than an hour.


I did tune up my block plane (that looks like the link you gave) once,
took
about 12 hours, as I recall, to flatten out the bottom, Square up the
mouth,
and attempt to put a edge on the blade. The result was simply not worth
the
effort. The more expensive block plane, as in the link below, took less
time to tune up, and took a good sharp edge and stayed sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-920.../dp/B0000223QY
note the screw feed for cutter depth, front brass adjustment for mouth
opening, and better all around machining.

WIKI (What I Know Is): before motorized miter cutting tools, miters were
cut
with a hand back saw and a miter box. A 45 degree cut was close but never
on the money. For framing carpentry, like door frames, since a block
plane
can be used to cut end grain, it was used to match the two ends of the 45
degree miters to form a tight 90 with no gaps. Back in the days when Bob
V.
worked with Norm on This Old House, the technique was demonstrated once.
Trust me, a motorized miter saw is WAY better method of cutting miters.

(Soap box warning!! Soap Box Warning!!)
The tool you have is one of those inexpensive tools that came out in the
1970s and 1980s that basically just made the users frustrated. It would
not
do the job that similar tools a generation before could do. Since this
was
before the Internet, and yes even before Woodsmith Magazine got rolling
with
a full head of steam. The person who bought one of these was on their own
to some degree to figure out that it took a lot of effort in correcting
manufacturing errors to get the tool to function correctly. That turned
off
a lot of would-be weekend wood workers.

During the Hyper-Inflation of the 1970s almost everything doubled or
tripled in price. So too did the cost of good hand tools. But the
manufactures came out with lines of tools that held the old prices, but
were
worth just what you paid for them or maybe even less. This ran from back
saws, planes, and even wood chisels. Most of these junk tools have
disappeared, since power hand tools have mostly replaced hand tools.
Quality hand tools are still available, and it still takes a full day to
tune up any new plane and sharpen the blade. And that will never change,
at
least I pray it won't.

So to answer your original un-asked question: If the plane your father
gave
you has someone's investment of a day or two to tuning it up once a long
time ago, it may be worth the effort for you to do honor to that person by
keeping it tuned up and a good sharp edge. If no one ever tuned it up, it
is
not worth much, except as a teaching tool for you to learn how to tune up
a plane, sharpen a plane blade, and learn to adjust cutting depth by
banging
on the front or back with a small hammer.

(Excuse me, I need to get the soap box back to the store.)

Good luck with you tool.

Phil

"Locutus" wrote in message
...
My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and
is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.

Phil-in-MI wrote:
I have one of those, I think I bought it for something under $15.00. Very
cheap, not very good.
It looks like a Stanley, or a Record 9 1/2 block plane. There are low angle
block planes for about $30.00 USD that are better.

I did tune up my block plane (that looks like the link you gave) once, took
about 12 hours, as I recall, to flatten out the bottom, Square up the mouth,
and attempt to put a edge on the blade. The result was simply not worth the
effort. The more expensive block plane, as in the link below, took less
time to tune up, and took a good sharp edge and stayed sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-920.../dp/B0000223QY
note the screw feed for cutter depth, front brass adjustment for mouth
opening, and better all around machining.

WIKI (What I Know Is): before motorized miter cutting tools, miters were cut
with a hand back saw and a miter box. A 45 degree cut was close but never
on the money. For framing carpentry, like door frames, since a block plane
can be used to cut end grain, it was used to match the two ends of the 45
degree miters to form a tight 90 with no gaps. Back in the days when Bob V.
worked with Norm on This Old House, the technique was demonstrated once.
Trust me, a motorized miter saw is WAY better method of cutting miters.

But it would be a mistake to suppose a power miter saw
is inherently more accurate than a good hand miter box.

--

FF

Hi,
that plane makes an awesome paperweight.

"Locutus" wrote in message
...
My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and
is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.

It would make a better user.

"Roger King" wrote in message
nk.net...
Hi,
that plane makes an awesome paperweight.

"Locutus" wrote in message
...
My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and
is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.

In article ,
charlie b wrote:
Locutus wrote:

My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.


Home handyman's mainly inexpensive, sorta works, block plane.
OK for knocking off edges and scraping paint.

charlie b

It's a bottom of the line block plane, maybe a 110. Not totally
useless, but it's the kind of plane that you wouldn't worry about it
rolling around in the bottom of a toolbox or lending out to your
brother in law.
--
For every complicated, difficult problem, there is a simple, easy
solution that does not work.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -

CW wrote:

So, now that Phil-in-MI has made you believe that it is totally worthless,
send it to me and I will have it making fine curlies in less than an hour.


OK - so that gets him a sharp iron (stamped steel), and, if the
bottom's
sort of flat, a flat sole. But that 1/4 inch plus throat's going to
take
some imaginative modification - one sided curlies are easier to
create
with a bit tighter throat. Then there's the combined sheet metal
cap lever/chip breaker tucked under that rod through the blane body,
with its tightening spur bolt thing. Turn it to lock the iron in
place -
but move the iron as you tighten it. Now you've got the cutting edge
skewed - with a sharp corner ready to create a nice groove in your
wood. Oh, and you might want to ease the top and bottom of the
back edge of the stamped steel iron cause it's going to be pressing
into the heal of your hand. If you have no problem setting the depth
of cut on a japanese plane (or one of Steve Knights woodies), setting
and adjusting the depth of cut on this plane should be no problem
at all - only not as easy.

Or, you can put it on a book shelf or in a display cabinet and smile
and think of your dad every time you see it - and pick up a useful
block plane at the flea market or garage sale for under $20.

charlie b

Locutus wrote:
My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.



That's a "block plane". It is intended for smoothing the end grain of
boards, the blade is set at a very shallow angle to facilitate slicing
cross grain. It's small 'cause the ends of boards are not very large
compared to the length of them. For with the grain work (planing the
length of a board) "ordinary" planes work better 'cause they are
longer, have a screw adjustment of blade depth, and have real handles
that make them easier to hold.
To cut crossgrain, the plane blade must be razor sharp. Any
dullness and it just won't cut. Your's may need the cutting edge
"renewed" on a bench grinder and then honed sharp with good fine stone.
The edge has to be sharp enough to slice paper and shave the hair off
your arm.
Adjust of depth of cut is a little tedious, you loosen the knob and
eyeball the plane blade and then tighten the knob to hold the setting.
Start with the shallowest depth of cut.
I have one of these, from Stanley, and it works, but it does need to
be sharp and I do a lot of fiddling with the blade adjustment.

David Starr

wrote in message
ps.com...

{snip}

But it would be a mistake to suppose a power miter saw
is inherently more accurate than a good hand miter box.


Hmm-m, I guess I have to concede that point. Yes, as I think about it, you
are correct.

Allow me to amend my statement:
For a weekend woodworker, you will find a motorized miter saw (after you
have adjusted the miter stops) will give you clean, fast, and very
acceptable miter cuts with way less fuss needed in final fitting. Of
course, the cost is lots more for the motorized saw, and then also you need
electricity, plus there is the safety issue, and so on. But overall, for my
choice, a power tool will give me a more time efficient way to cut
acceptable miters without the need for a block plane (only sand paper).
Note I said "more time efficient" which does not imply in any way superior
or more accurate; it only implies that the learning curve for hand cut
miters, which is a craft skill, takes a bit longer than learning to use a
power tool.

Phil

"David Starr" wrote in message
...
Locutus wrote:
My father found a in his garage and gave it to me, he wasn't sure
where it came from but he knows its been laying around for at least 20
years.

The plane looks like this one:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/06/50/e4/42_2.JPG (also posted abpw)

Since I have no experience with hand planes, what is this plane for, and
is
it worth keeping/using?

TIA.



That's a "block plane". It is intended for smoothing the end grain of
boards, the blade is set at a very shallow angle to facilitate slicing
cross grain. It's small 'cause the ends of boards are not very large
compared to the length of them. For with the grain work (planing the
length of a board) "ordinary" planes work better 'cause they are longer,
have a screw adjustment of blade depth, and have real handles that make
them easier to hold.
To cut crossgrain, the plane blade must be razor sharp. Any dullness
and it just won't cut. Your's may need the cutting edge "renewed" on a
bench grinder and then honed sharp with good fine stone. The edge has to
be sharp enough to slice paper and shave the hair off your arm.
Adjust of depth of cut is a little tedious, you loosen the knob and
eyeball the plane blade and then tighten the knob to hold the setting.
Start with the shallowest depth of cut.
I have one of these, from Stanley, and it works, but it does need to be
sharp and I do a lot of fiddling with the blade adjustment.

David Starr


Thanks for the responses everyone, now that I know it is used for end grain,
I will play around with it and see what happens.

Not to highly skilled with planes, eh?

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
CW wrote:

So, now that Phil-in-MI has made you believe that it is totally
worthless,
send it to me and I will have it making fine curlies in less than an
hour.


OK - so that gets him a sharp iron (stamped steel), and, if the
bottom's
sort of flat, a flat sole. But that 1/4 inch plus throat's going to
take
some imaginative modification - one sided curlies are easier to
create
with a bit tighter throat. Then there's the combined sheet metal
cap lever/chip breaker tucked under that rod through the blane body,
with its tightening spur bolt thing. Turn it to lock the iron in
place -
but move the iron as you tighten it. Now you've got the cutting edge
skewed - with a sharp corner ready to create a nice groove in your
wood. Oh, and you might want to ease the top and bottom of the
back edge of the stamped steel iron cause it's going to be pressing
into the heal of your hand. If you have no problem setting the depth
of cut on a japanese plane (or one of Steve Knights woodies), setting
and adjusting the depth of cut on this plane should be no problem
at all - only not as easy.

Or, you can put it on a book shelf or in a display cabinet and smile
and think of your dad every time you see it - and pick up a useful
block plane at the flea market or garage sale for under $20.

charlie b

CW wrote:

Not to highly skilled with planes, eh?


Good enough to use them well.
Good enough to sharpen their irons properly and well.

But I'd rather start with a decent "user", as opposed to
a "vanity"/"decorative"/"sentimental value" tool, and have
the time spent tuning it so it's a good "user" tool, as
opposed to a "I can MAKE this tool work" tool.

Sharpening a crappy dull handsaw isn't difficult - but it's
time consuming and a little mind numbing. Setting
the teeth ain't hard either, but even more mind numbing.
And when you're done - at best - you only have a
marginally adequate handsaw that you can MAKE work
- for a while and probably have to sharpen again all too
soon. I'd rather start with a fair to decent dozuki and a
replacement blade and cut wood where I want to cut
and with the minimum of clean up, preferably no clean up.
When it dulls enough to get in my way I'll replace it - and
order a spare blade.

But this woodworking thing has something for everyone.
If you like to sharpen things to a micron thick edge - great.
If 89.05 or 90.02 degrees isn't close enough to square
for you - great. If you like the look of ten layers of french
polished shellac - and enjoy french polishing - great.

On the other hand, if, as a newbie, you find that sharpening
and tuning a marginally useful block plane properly is just
too much of a PITA and get turned off to woodworking ...
Or, if, as a newbie, you spend the time to learn to sharpen
and tune a block plane and it still doesn't work very well
when you're done - your might just kiss off woodworking.

If he wants to go through the process - to my mind - it's
better to go with a better starting point - a fair to decent
block plane - and end up with a good, not just barely adequate,
"user" tool that does what it's made to do - with the minimum
of fuss and effort. Once addicted to woodworking and all
the tools and tuning/tweeking that come with the addiction
- THEN let him discover how much of his life can go into
making things out of wood ; ).

charlie b
tool phreak
wood whore
currently a turned lidded box maker ('til Christmas at least)

ps - don't say ANYTHING about The Cabal
(this post will self destruct in 30 seconds . . .)