Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On 7 Dec 2006 18:31:33 -0800, "
wrote: Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! Kinda depends on your needs. If you buy all of your hardwood already surfaced then you may not have as much need for a planer. If you do a lot of ripping you might use a joiner to clean up your sawed edges. Personally, I have more need for a joiner and would buy that first. YMMV. Mike O. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Planer. There are many ways of jointing without a jointer but thicknessing
is rather difficult without a planer. wrote in message ups.com... Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Damn, I wish one of these used jointers were in the Asheville, NC area!
Mike O. wrote: On 7 Dec 2006 18:31:33 -0800, " wrote: Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! Kinda depends on your needs. If you buy all of your hardwood already surfaced then you may not have as much need for a planer. If you do a lot of ripping you might use a joiner to clean up your sawed edges. Personally, I have more need for a joiner and would buy that first. YMMV. Mike O. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On 7 Dec 2006 19:21:11 -0800, "
wrote: wrote: Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! I bought a planer because it's possible to use it as a jointer Wrong. It is *never* possible to use a planer as a jointer. The two machines serve completely different functions. The two machines have a kind of symbiotic relationship. A jointer makes one surface of a board flat. The fence on the jointer is used to make one of the edges adjacent to that flat face perpendicular to it. Various adjustments to the tables and fence on a jointer can vary the results from flat and perpendicular. The reason a planer cannot joint is that the pressure of the feed rollers can temporarily flatten the board so that it gets planed, but the board returns to it's formerly cupped/twisted/warped original shape after that pressure is relieved. Of course, if you're board is "flat enough" or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions to hold your board as it goes through the planer, you *might* get away with making the surfaces flat and reasonably parallel to each other. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Can you enlighten a noob on some of these jointing methods. I'd assume
a hand planer would be one. CW wrote: Planer. There are many ways of jointing without a jointer but thicknessing is rather difficult without a planer. wrote in message ups.com... Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
EE Gads, I just scanned down the list and there sure are a lot of opinions
as to which machine to buy. I don't know that there is any real consensus of opinion! But one thing for sure.... There are lots of opinions! Let us know what you summarize from it all and what you decide to purchase! Don Dando wrote in message ups.com... Can you enlighten a noob on some of these jointing methods. I'd assume a hand planer would be one. CW wrote: Planer. There are many ways of jointing without a jointer but thicknessing is rather difficult without a planer. wrote in message ups.com... Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Can you explain this for the woodworking challenged? ;-)
J T wrote: Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 3:54am (EST+5) (George Max) doth burble: Wrong. It is *never* possible to use a planer as a jointer. snip Oh ye of little imagination. I don't have a jointer, and do most of my jointing with my planer. Simple enough, use a planer sled. They'll work even with crooked wood. I've made two, plan on another. Or, you can make a guide to run stock thru, I may try that for my next project. JOAT I am, therefore I think. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
In article . com, " wrote:
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! The best option is to save your money until you can buy both. Next best would be to look at used equipment so you can buy both. Here are the considerations: 1. A jointer cannot do the job of a thickness planer. Period. 2. With appropriate sleds or jigs, you can face joint with a planer. But it's a lot easier with a jointer. 3. With appropriate sleds or jigs, you can edge joint with a table saw. But it's a lot easier with a jointer. 4. The whole operation (face jointing, edge jointing, and thickness planing) can be done with hand tools. But it's a lot easier with a jointer and a planer. The two work together: flatten a face with the jointer, then make the opposite face parallel to it with the planer. Best to have both. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Planer.
The design feedom to use other than stadard-thickness components is huge in my book. Get a hand plane to knock off the high spots before planing. Then save for the jointer... You will want one. -Steve wrote in message ups.com... Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
wrote in message ups.com... Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! Planer I have had a jointer longer than a planer and have seriously considered on several occasions of getting rid of the jointer to make more room. Currently my jointer is more convenient to use than either of my planers or my TS and choose to use it as a last resort. With a very simple jig you can rip straight an edge on a board and with a little more complicated jig plane flat a board on a planer. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"George Max" wrote in message ... I bought a planer because it's possible to use it as a jointer Wrong. It is *never* possible to use a planer as a jointer. Wrong, tell that to the 200 BF of 8' long oak I have that was all rough cut and not perfectly flat or straight. The two machines serve completely different functions. From the factory, yes. With a jig, no. The fence on the jointer is used to make one of the edges adjacent to that flat face perpendicular to it. On long boards this is easier and faster on a TS with a jig. Various adjustments to the tables and fence on a jointer can vary the results from flat and perpendicular. True The reason a planer cannot joint is that the pressure of the feed rollers can temporarily flatten the board so that it gets planed, but the board returns to it's formerly cupped/twisted/warped original shape after that pressure is relieved. Of course, if you're board is "flat enough" or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions to hold your board as it goes through the planer, you *might* get away with making the surfaces flat and reasonably parallel to each other. You mention flat enough. If your board is not "flat enough" you should not even consider using a jointer to flatten it. There will simply be too much waste. Better to rip the piece on a band saw to get rid of most of the cup or cross cut to a shorter length to get rid of most of the bow. The planer jigs work really well. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"Mike O." wrote in message ... On 7 Dec 2006 18:31:33 -0800, " wrote: Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not yet. Thanks! Kinda depends on your needs. If you buy all of your hardwood already surfaced then you may not have as much need for a planer. If you do a lot of ripping you might use a joiner to clean up your sawed edges. Personally, I have more need for a joiner and would buy that first. YMMV. Mike O. Food for thought here. A planer will allow different thickness stock that is not always available at a reasonable price. A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To maintain uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a shiny smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a book on tuning up your TS. 23 years ago I was under the assumption that I should have the jointer first. I am now on my second planer and the jointer pretty much sets collecting just. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
wrote in message ups.com... Can you enlighten a noob on some of these jointing methods. I'd assume a hand planer would be one. Flatten a board with a sled and a planer. The sled essentially compensates for high spots from the bottom of the board so that the board does not flatten out or rock when going under the in feed roller of the planer. Once that surface is flat, flip the board over and run through with out the sled. To straighten the edge of a board build a long narrow, 14" or so, and 8' long sled with 2 toggle clamps. The clamps should be screwed to the sled for easy adjustment for different width boards. Rip this sled straight on the TS and then clamp the board to be straightened on the blade side of the jig with the curved edge hanging over the edge of the jig. Use the rip fence to guide the sled and adjust it so that the blade side of the sled is at the edge of the blade. Now run the sled and board through and cut the curved board straight. This is actually easier faster and easier than using a jointer. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Leon wrote:
Once that surface is flat, flip the board over and run through with out the sled. Even with a jointer, the face need not be flat, it only needs full contact on both sides of the board over the full length. The planer can then flatten both sides and make them parallel as the board is flipped. In the case of some really nice faces, I've not had enough wood to make both sides completely flat, so the unfinished face is oriented to where it won't show. I've seen woodworkers face joint, face joint, and face joint some more, until one part of the board is less than finished thickness, but the other face hasn't been touched at all. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 00:31:35 -0500, (J T)
wrote: Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 3:54am (EST+5) (George*Max) doth burble: Wrong. It is *never* possible to use a planer as a jointer. snip Oh ye of little imagination. I don't have a jointer, and do most of my jointing with my planer. Simple enough, use a planer sled. They'll work even with crooked wood. I've made two, plan on another. Or, you can make a guide to run stock thru, I may try that for my next project. Did you read my whole message? I quote: "or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions to hold your board as it goes through the planer, you *might* get away with making the surfaces flat and reasonably parallel to each other." While possible, far too much rigamarole. My shop time is too limited to allow for something that's going to be different for each board. All that setup. That takes too long. But as my message says, I *might* do it if the situation presents its self and its justifiable (to me). |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:02:44 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: The fence on the jointer is used to make one of the edges adjacent to that flat face perpendicular to it. On long boards this is easier and faster on a TS with a jig. I used to use an 8' straight edge and a router for that (long boards.) Not since I got a serious jointer though. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To maintain uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a shiny smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a book on tuning up your TS. I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon. If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining uniformity. I have a good number of quality blades but would never consider making face frames or doors without a joiner. BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will. Mike O. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"Mike O." wrote in message
uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining uniformity. My experience is entirely different ... and my jointer is properly tuned. The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip an opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME. Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a jointer. And my Freud Glue-Line rip blade will consistently leave as good as edge as is necessary for any woodworking endeavor, if for some reason I feel my Forrest WWII won't suffice. Your mileage may obviously vary ... -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/29/06 |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"Swingman" wrote in message news "Mike O." wrote in message uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining uniformity. My experience is entirely different ... and my jointer is properly tuned. The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip an opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME. Learn to use your jointer. It removes, when properly used, the same amount of material all along the length of the board. Its "fence" is the outfeed table, remaining a constant distance above the infeed throughout, just as your tablesaw blade remains a constant distance from that fence. Only difference is the jointer is capable of taking out bow which might result from new tensioning of the narrower board as well. It's your woodworker's eye reading the board you're ripping that warns you when it might be necessary to rip two passes oversize. Sometimes even that's not enough. |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"George" wrote in message "Swingman" wrote in message news "Mike O." wrote in message uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining uniformity. My experience is entirely different ... and my jointer is properly tuned. The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip an opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME. Learn to use your jointer. Look up above and learn to read. It removes, when properly used, the same amount of material all along the length of the board. Its "fence" is the outfeed table, remaining a constant distance above the infeed throughout, just as your tablesaw blade remains a constant distance from that fence. Only difference is the jointer is capable of taking out bow which might result from new tensioning of the narrower board as well. It's your woodworker's eye reading the board you're ripping that warns you when it might be necessary to rip two passes oversize. Sometimes even that's not enough. FACT: If you are attempting to use a jointer to obtain parallel edges/faces, you are misusing the tool. While you are not a big enough fool to argue that point, as above, you will step to the edge of doing so even though you DO know better. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/29/06 |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
|
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"Mike O." wrote in message ... On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon" wrote: A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To maintain uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a shiny smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a book on tuning up your TS. I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon. If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining uniformity. That is not an absolute. Unless you maintain "perfect" feed pressure the edge begins going off parallel with the first pass, perhaps not enough that you would consider unacceptable. I have a good number of quality blades but would never consider making face frames or doors without a joiner. BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will. The Forrest WWII on a well tuned saw will leace a surface that shines and reflects like glass. That's what use. |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 13:34:17 -0500, J T wrote:
Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 9:16am (EST-1) (GeorgeĀ*Max) doth query: Did you read my whole message? I quote: "or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions snip Yep, read it. Except, I consider a planer sled a basic accessory, and not a clever jig, or contraption. So how long does it take you to adjust your planer sled for each board? JOAT I am, therefore I think. -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 13:34:17 -0500, J T wrote: Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 9:16am (EST-1) (George Max) doth query: Did you read my whole message? I quote: "or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions snip Yep, read it. Except, I consider a planer sled a basic accessory, and not a clever jig, or contraption. So how long does it take you to adjust your planer sled for each board? I have an 8' sled and to adjust it for an 8' board it takes about 2 minutes. Then it is good to go for how ever many passes it takes. Shorter boards take proportionally less time. My sled is also good for boards up to about 14". Not many people can afford a jointer to handle boards as wide as their planer. While using a jointer may be a little quicker on smaller boards there is a greater advantage in time on longer and wider boards when using a TS and Planer. |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
Quote :BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will. Unquote" Before having a 6" heavy jointer, I used a 10 inches, Ripping Hollow Ground-planing blade. This blade only works when your board is square with the blade, fence and perfectly perpendicular to the table. To accomplished that I used to secure the board with toggle clamps on a sled and push it between the fence and blade. Not the ideal solution but it did the work to build three solid wood bedroom sets and dinner room. Now I make use of top of the line ripping (Freud) blade, heavy jointer and surface planer. This way I can go much faster. FWIW "Leon" wrote in message et... "Mike O." wrote in message ... On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon" wrote: A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To maintain uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a shiny smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a book on tuning up your TS. I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon. If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining uniformity. That is not an absolute. Unless you maintain "perfect" feed pressure the edge begins going off parallel with the first pass, perhaps not enough that you would consider unacceptable. I have a good number of quality blades but would never consider making face frames or doors without a joiner. BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will. The Forrest WWII on a well tuned saw will leace a surface that shines and reflects like glass. That's what use. |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 22:58:02 +0000, Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 13:34:17 -0500, J T wrote: Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 9:16am (EST-1) (George Max) doth query: Did you read my whole message? I quote: "or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions snip Yep, read it. Except, I consider a planer sled a basic accessory, and not a clever jig, or contraption. So how long does it take you to adjust your planer sled for each board? I have an 8' sled and to adjust it for an 8' board it takes about 2 minutes. Then it is good to go for how ever many passes it takes. Shorter boards take proportionally less time. My sled is also good for boards up to about 14". Not many people can afford a jointer to handle boards as wide as their planer. While using a jointer may be a little quicker on smaller boards there is a greater advantage in time on longer and wider boards when using a TS and Planer. What method does it use to support the curvature of the board so that you get flattening? -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
I own a really good jointer. I still use a sled similar to Leon's to flatten wide boards that I don't want to rip to 8" before I flatten the face. Like any other woodworking jig, a planer sled is quick and easy, once your mind is in the groove. Do you have some detailed sketches of the your sled I would like to build one. TIA "B A R R Y" wrote in message ... On 8 Dec 2006 22:00:32 GMT, "J. Clarke" wrote: So how long does it take you to adjust your planer sled for each board? FWIW... I own a really good jointer. I still use a sled similar to Leon's to flatten wide boards that I don't want to rip to 8" before I flatten the face. Like any other woodworking jig, a planer sled is quick and easy, once your mind is in the groove. Don't use something often? Stay in the groove by keeping a notebook, complete with sketches, and write the really important details right on the jig with a Sharpie. I'd buy a planer first, and save for a good 6"++ jointer as my next tool. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Repeat after me to use clever jigs and advanced tools: "I will keep notes, I will keep notes, I will..." I have distinct notebooks for general notes (jig usage), tool setups, tuning, and maintenance, sharpening, and finishing, (4 books, plus a 5th that sits in my HVLP case) and flip through them before I do something I haven't done in a while. I also keep a rudimentary time log for future estimating, but this is probably unnecessary if you know you'll never, ever charge for a piece. Above all, have fun. Art, music, and sports always come out better when the participant is having fun. Barry |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 22:58:02 +0000, Leon wrote: What method does it use to support the curvature of the board so that you get flattening? There are about 8 or 9 even spaced rocker strips that the board actually sets on and these set on the sled. The rocker strips use triangular wedges that are dadoed in to each end and held in place by the very point of a screw. The triangle wedges slide in to raise the rocker strip or slide out to lower the rocker strip. I got the plans form FWW IIRC. I can repost plans if you would like to see them. |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 11:10:17 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:
The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip an opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME. The edges of your material should come off the joiner just as square or out of square as they are ripped. The fence on the joiner is inconsequential when cleaning up ripped edges. You could in fact remove the fence entirely though it's not recommended. If your tables are flat and parallel and blades are installed on the proper plane you should be able to repeat the square ness of your rips very accurately. If you rip your stock at 2 degrees out of square you should be able to run it across your joiner (not using your fence) and it will still be 2 degrees out of square. All your trying to do is keep your stock flat on the tables. Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a jointer. That's why you rip them first. And my Freud Glue-Line rip blade will consistently leave as good as edge as is necessary for any woodworking endeavor, if for some reason I feel my Forrest WWII won't suffice. But, if you wipe a wet finger across that edge you will find the remnants of hairline kerf marks. At some point in your building process I'm sure you address those. Your mileage may obviously vary ... Obviously, it does.:-) I might suggest that not that long ago, before we had the quality of blades we have today, every rail and stile made was either run through a joiner to remove kerf marks or attacked by a hand plane. Another thing to note is that in any cabinet manufacturing facility that I've been through, sawed edges are addressed in some similar manner. While rails and stiles are cut with a computerized saw, the material edges are cleaned up in some way prior to assembly by either a big automated joiner or planer or some type of sander. A sawed edge is never the final edge. IMO the joiner is used less and less because people are afraid to use it, don't know how to use it and/or don't know how to set one up. While today's blades may (for some) eliminate the need to join edges, the process has been done since the first block plane and then when some guy figured out how to get the blade from his plane spinning fast enough, it was done with a joiner. Some of us are still doing it. Mike O. |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Jointer or planer?
"Mike O." wrote in message ... Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a jointer. That's why you rip them first. Geez.... Do you also run your plywood panels through the jointer after cutting them ????? |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Planer or jointer? | Woodworking | |||
Jointer or Planer? | Woodworking | |||
8" jointer or a combo jointer/planer machine? | Woodworking | |||
jointer as planer | Woodworking | |||
Planer/Jointer | UK diy |