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[email protected] September 19th 06 06:12 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
My oak kitchen table (about 15 years old) has a finish that is almost
worn off, and has become very stickey and hard to clean. So, I sanded
the top with an orbital sander.

What finish should I put on it, assuming it will get a lot of use,
spills, and kids abuse? I want to use a clear, easy to apply finish
with good wear resistance...any ideas?

Thanks!


DJ Delorie September 19th 06 07:02 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

writes:
What finish should I put on it, assuming it will get a lot of use,
spills, and kids abuse? I want to use a clear, easy to apply finish
with good wear resistance...any ideas?


My red oak dining room table has just poly on it. I use a floor-grade
poly from Sherwin Williams, figuring anything designed to be *walked*
on is strong enough for a table. It's held up fine for the last, um
10-15 years (I forget exactly when I built it) with two kids beating
on it every day.

B A R R Y September 19th 06 07:31 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
wrote:

I know it may offend the sensibilityes of the true wood workers but I
will second the opinion on poly. I used poly on my maple counter tops
and they are doing great several years later.


Make it three for a kitchen table.

[email protected] September 19th 06 08:52 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

B A R R Y wrote:
wrote:

I know it may offend the sensibilityes of the true wood workers but I
will second the opinion on poly. I used poly on my maple counter tops
and they are doing great several years later.


Make it three for a kitchen table.


I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to finishing anything other than a
military gun stockset!

This poly you speak of...where and what should I get? Also, does it
spray on, brush on, etc? Does it show brushmarks, do I have to put many
coats on? And, is it safe for my 2 year old to eat off of?

Thanks again!
Andy


Chris Friesen September 19th 06 09:33 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
wrote:

This poly you speak of...where and what should I get?


You can get it anywhere that sells paint. The big box stores like Home
Depot and Lowes will certainly have it, as will many smaller places.

You're looking for polyurethane finish, and it can be oil or water
based. There are many different brands, such as Varathane, Minwax, etx.

Also, does it spray on, brush on, etc?


Yes. grin

For home use it is commonly brushed or wiped. It can also be sprayed.

Does it show brushmarks, do I have to put many
coats on?


The oil based stuff shows fewer brush marks than the water-based (but
you have to use mineral spirits to clean your brushes). You would
generally do at least three coats, four might be better for the top surface.

And, is it safe for my 2 year old to eat off of?


Pretty much any common wood finish is safe to eat off once it is fully dry.

Chris

KENDALL SEYBERT September 19th 06 10:34 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
....and remember, it's best to use a polyurethane varnish that has a gloss
finish because gloss is harder and more durable than finishes that contain
a flattening agent (e.g., semigloss, satin, flat). If you decide you want a
semigloss or satin final coat, at least use gloss for the undercoats. You
can also rub a gloss out to a semigloss or satin if you wish.

--Jim

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
wrote:

This poly you speak of...where and what should I get?


You can get it anywhere that sells paint. The big box stores like Home
Depot and Lowes will certainly have it, as will many smaller places.

You're looking for polyurethane finish, and it can be oil or water
based. There are many different brands, such as Varathane, Minwax, etx.

Also, does it spray on, brush on, etc?


Yes. grin

For home use it is commonly brushed or wiped. It can also be sprayed.

Does it show brushmarks, do I have to put many
coats on?


The oil based stuff shows fewer brush marks than the water-based (but
you have to use mineral spirits to clean your brushes). You would
generally do at least three coats, four might be better for the top

surface.

And, is it safe for my 2 year old to eat off of?


Pretty much any common wood finish is safe to eat off once it is fully

dry.

Chris




DJ Delorie September 19th 06 10:36 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

"KENDALL SEYBERT" writes:
...and remember, it's best to use a polyurethane varnish that has a gloss
finish because gloss is harder and more durable than finishes that contain
a flattening agent (e.g., semigloss, satin, flat). If you decide you want a
semigloss or satin final coat, at least use gloss for the undercoats. You
can also rub a gloss out to a semigloss or satin if you wish.


Actually, I used three thin coats of semi-gloss for my table, and it's
held up fine.

But I agree that gloss is harder. I just don't want all the scratches
to show ;-)

DJ Delorie September 19th 06 10:42 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

writes:
This poly you speak of


Polyurethane Varnish

...where and what should I get?


I get mine at the local Sherwin Williams store. Don't get the fast
drying stuff! For this, it's better to take your time and let it do
its thing without the chemicals needed to fast-dry.

Also, does it spray on, brush on, etc?


I use a good bristle brush. Poly is common; look for brushes that say
"for polyurethane". If this is the only project you're working on, it
might be easier to buy a couple inexpensive brushes (not cheap, just
inexpensive) rather than dealing with the chemicals needed to clean
them properly. You can probably get away with the 2" or 3" wide foam
brushes if you don't move the brush too quickly.

Alternatively, you can sometimes just wrap the brush in plastic wrap
between coats, if you're using an oil based poly. I wouldn't rely on
it, though.

Does it show brushmarks?


The first coat or two might have bubbles or some minor brush strokes,
but you're going to sand those anyway. The last coat should be fine,
but stick with thin coats - it's not paint ;-)

The trick is to stick with thin coats, and slow-drying.

AndyK September 20th 06 12:40 AM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

DJ Delorie wrote:
writes:
This poly you speak of


Polyurethane Varnish

...where and what should I get?


I get mine at the local Sherwin Williams store. Don't get the fast
drying stuff! For this, it's better to take your time and let it do
its thing without the chemicals needed to fast-dry.

Also, does it spray on, brush on, etc?


I use a good bristle brush. Poly is common; look for brushes that say
"for polyurethane". If this is the only project you're working on, it
might be easier to buy a couple inexpensive brushes (not cheap, just
inexpensive) rather than dealing with the chemicals needed to clean
them properly. You can probably get away with the 2" or 3" wide foam
brushes if you don't move the brush too quickly.

Alternatively, you can sometimes just wrap the brush in plastic wrap
between coats, if you're using an oil based poly. I wouldn't rely on
it, though.

Does it show brushmarks?


The first coat or two might have bubbles or some minor brush strokes,
but you're going to sand those anyway. The last coat should be fine,
but stick with thin coats - it's not paint ;-)

The trick is to stick with thin coats, and slow-drying.


Uh-oh. I just finished putting on 3 coats of Minwax fast-drying spray
poly in satin! Can I lightly sand, and put semi-gloss over it at this
point?


todd September 20th 06 01:56 AM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
wrote in message
oups.com...
My oak kitchen table (about 15 years old) has a finish that is almost
worn off, and has become very stickey and hard to clean. So, I sanded
the top with an orbital sander.

What finish should I put on it, assuming it will get a lot of use,
spills, and kids abuse? I want to use a clear, easy to apply finish
with good wear resistance...any ideas?

Thanks!


My first choice would be a conversion finish of some kind...like a
precatalyzed lacquer. However, if you're not set up to spray, a good
polyurethane would do the job.

todd



JustME September 20th 06 12:54 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
If I were you I wouldn't use the water-based poly. When it gets wet it
shows up water marks horribly, not mention it feels tacky as well. I'm
a store mgr. for Sherwin Williams and have used these types of products
on several occasions, not to mention recommend them everyday. If you
have the ability to spray and want the most durable finish possible, we
have a water white conversion varnish that will provide the most
resistance to common household chemicals and provide a furniture grade
water white finish. If not spraying, brushing on 2-3 coats of oil based
poly. By the way, the poly for floors is not any different than the
regular Minwax poly, it just dries a lot faster. If your wanting to
wipe it on, don't use the "for floors" version. It dries too quickly to
be wiped on. Hope this helps.


RonB September 20th 06 03:00 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
One of the easiest finishes would be a wipe-on poly. MinWax and others
offer it in most big-box, hardware or paint stores. You prepare a very
smooth surface (thorough sanding to 220 grit) and wipe on several coats. It
will add a slight amber tone to your oak so you might want to experiment on
the side. If you need to stain to match remaining table use an oil based
stain which will also seal. Sanding is important because the wipe on finish
will not hide any sanding marks.

The wipe on poly builds slow so a table top might require four our more
coats with a lint free rag (T-shirt scraps are great). Good news is that in
reasonable humidity it drys to recoat in a few hours. Sand out dust and
imperfections between coats. You won't have to worry about brush marks.

It is close to being an idiot-proof fininsh. That is why I use it.

RonB


wrote in message
ups.com...

B A R R Y wrote:
wrote:

I know it may offend the sensibilityes of the true wood workers but I
will second the opinion on poly. I used poly on my maple counter tops
and they are doing great several years later.


Make it three for a kitchen table.


I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to finishing anything other than a
military gun stockset!

This poly you speak of...where and what should I get? Also, does it
spray on, brush on, etc? Does it show brushmarks, do I have to put many
coats on? And, is it safe for my 2 year old to eat off of?

Thanks again!
Andy




Leon September 20th 06 03:19 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
My oak kitchen table (about 15 years old) has a finish that is almost
worn off, and has become very stickey and hard to clean. So, I sanded
the top with an orbital sander.

What finish should I put on it, assuming it will get a lot of use,
spills, and kids abuse? I want to use a clear, easy to apply finish
with good wear resistance...any ideas?

Thanks!


I recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal varnish. Available form
www.woodcraft.com and www.rockler.com .
Apply with a GOOD quality foam small cell brush. I use Wooster brand foam
brushes sold at Lowe's. These brushes will yield a great finish with little
to no brush marks and can be cleaned and used over and over. Do NOT buy
the typical foam brush.



Leon September 20th 06 03:23 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 

"KENDALL SEYBERT" wrote in message
news:cnZPg.1974$HZ5.67@trndny08...
...and remember, it's best to use a polyurethane varnish that has a gloss
finish because gloss is harder and more durable than finishes that
contain
a flattening agent (e.g., semigloss, satin, flat). If you decide you want
a
semigloss or satin final coat, at least use gloss for the undercoats. You
can also rub a gloss out to a semigloss or satin if you wish.



I have never noticed a different in hardness between a gloss and less glossy
finish. As far as durability the gloss is going to scratch easily compared
to a simi-gloss. I would like to know where you go your information
concerning the hardness comparison.



bremen68 September 20th 06 04:03 PM

Best finish for Oak kitchen table?
 
I used the Minwax version of the wipe on poly (gloss) this spring on my
oak table top and it turned out great. Three coats with steel wool and
tac cloth in between each coat.

So far it's held up with no problems, no water rings, and no
scratches... and it's me SWMBO and three munchkins abusing it on a
regular basis.

A nice bonus with the wipe on that I found was the limited odor. I did
the project right in the dining room in the evenings after the wee ones
were in bed and it didn't fill the house with any fumes.



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