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Buffing Polyurethane



 
 
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  #1  
Old June 20th 06, 11:56 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Buffing Polyurethane

hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
than disaster.
thanks,
Jock


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  #2  
Old June 20th 06, 11:56 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Buffing Polyurethane

* where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
Jock
"Jock" wrote in message
...
hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
other than disaster.
thanks,
Jock



  #3  
Old June 20th 06, 12:03 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: n/a
Default Buffing Polyurethane


"Jock" wrote in message
...
* where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
Jock
"Jock" wrote in message
...
hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of

finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
other than disaster.
thanks,
Jock




You will probably want to gently sand it or wet sand it with something on
the order of 1200-1500 grit paper. This will knock down any dust nibs or
other small imperfections. It will also kill the shine if you've applied a
gloss finish. You can then buff it back up with automotive rubbing compound
(either by hand or with a buffer) to bring back the shine. That would give
you a finish that is as smooth as glass.

--

-Mike-



  #4  
Old June 20th 06, 12:45 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: n/a
Default Buffing Polyurethane

Walmart sells it. Now if you can get it to work on a car, with or without a
m/c, let me know.



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  #5  
Old June 20th 06, 12:53 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Buffing Polyurethane


Jock wrote:
hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
than disaster.
thanks,
Jock


  #7  
Old June 21st 06, 12:07 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: n/a
Default Buffing Polyurethane


"Tex" wrote in message
et...
In article ,
says...

"Jock" wrote in message
...
* where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
Jock
"Jock" wrote in message
...
hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice
smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of

finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve
something
other than disaster.
thanks,
Jock




You will probably want to gently sand it or wet sand it with something on
the order of 1200-1500 grit paper. This will knock down any dust nibs or
other small imperfections. It will also kill the shine if you've applied
a
gloss finish. You can then buff it back up with automotive rubbing
compound
(either by hand or with a buffer) to bring back the shine. That would
give
you a finish that is as smooth as glass.


I put on several coats, lightly sanding between coats if there are
imperfections and/or if a bit of dust settled while drying. After the
final coat AND AFTER IT IS COMPLETELY DRY I wet sand with 1000 grit
wet/dry sandpaper. Then I use my random orbital sander with a pad and
do the final polish with it and rottenstone. I use a light oil to hold
the powdered rottenstone in place. It gives a really nice, velvety
smooth finish.


Thanks all for the ideas, I have some winter cool at the moment so I have
lots of time to decide which method to try... like watching paint dry 'round
here!
Thanks again,
Jock


  #8  
Old June 22nd 06, 03:59 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: n/a
Default Buffing Polyurethane

On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:56:07 GMT, "Jock"
wrote:

hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
than disaster.
thanks,
Jock

Confusing point here... have you put poly on it already??

If not, I'd sand it to 600 or so and then go over it with a polisher like ultra
sheen or something... that brings it up to maybe 2400 grit...
Then buff the heck out of it, with a good 3 wheel system like the Beall, if
possible.. YMWV
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
  #9  
Old June 22nd 06, 09:56 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: n/a
Default Buffing Polyurethane


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:56:07 GMT, "Jock"
wrote:

hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something

other
than disaster.
thanks,
Jock

Confusing point here... have you put poly on it already??

If not, I'd sand it to 600 or so and then go over it with a polisher like

ultra
sheen or something... that brings it up to maybe 2400 grit...
Then buff the heck out of it, with a good 3 wheel system like the Beall,

if
possible.. YMWV
Mac


If the factory finish is not in very bad shape - which is to say, no gouges,
only surface scratches, I would not go as abrasive as 600. 1500 is plenty
abrasive enough for surfaces scratches. Any rubbing compound or the like
will then take it up to any luster desired. If the surface scratches are
quite minor, I would not even hit it with 1500. Just use a compound. 600
is really a tooth grit. You want it for primers and such where tooth is
desired.

--

-Mike-



  #10  
Old June 23rd 06, 01:19 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: n/a
Default Buffing Polyurethane

mac,
I have one coat on, still drying because it's quite cold here at present.
I finish sanded with 400 on my random orbital, I will probably go the fine
sand (600 or better) between coats and reapply the poly till a deep finish
is achieved.
I turned some Mulga ( an aussie desert type hardwood) for a chisel handle
and sanded it then put the pure beeswax into it on the lathe then used a
piece of western red cedar as a friction block melting the wax into the
spinning piece. With a buff to finish it (a dry cloth) it came up with an
amazing lustre.
I only have sanders to use on this shelf project, not anything more tooly
than a lambswool pad on the r/o sander so I will persevere with this new
info..
Thanks for all the comments guys, much appreciated.
Jock
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:56:07 GMT, "Jock"
wrote:

hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
other
than disaster.
thanks,
Jock

Confusing point here... have you put poly on it already??

If not, I'd sand it to 600 or so and then go over it with a polisher like
ultra
sheen or something... that brings it up to maybe 2400 grit...
Then buff the heck out of it, with a good 3 wheel system like the Beall,
if
possible.. YMWV
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm



 




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