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Posted to rec.woodworking
Wilson
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

The load on WW motors is generally very light. You didn't say what tool is
involved, but any motor should be fine, assuming it doesn't have a
manufacturing fault.
Wilson
"Jack" wrote in message
...

My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
motor? Thank you.

.



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Posted to rec.woodworking
Tom Gardner
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


"Jack" wrote in message
...

My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
motor? Thank you.


Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.


  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jack
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
motor? Thank you.

..
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Upscale
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

"Jack" wrote in message

My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
motor? Thank you.


Whichever motor you decide to use, make sure it is TEFC rated. (totally
enclosed, fan cooled). The 'totally enclosed' part ensures that sawdust
won't find its way into the innards of the more. 'Fan cooled' is
self-explanatory.


  #5   Report Post  
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Juergen Hannappel
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

(Jack) writes:


[...]


It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two


For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
motor.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel
http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23


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Jim
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


"Juergen Hannappel" wrote in message
...
(Jack) writes:


[...]


It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two


For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
motor.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel
http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

That is certainly correct; however, 3 phase power is not available in the US
in homes. Businesses are very different.
Jim


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CW
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

Then a phase converter to run it on.

"Juergen Hannappel" wrote in message
...
(Jack) writes:


[...]


It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two


For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
motor.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel
http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23



  #8   Report Post  
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George E. Cawthon
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

Jack wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.


Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.


.

Good Grief! No wonder you have motor problems.
  #9   Report Post  
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Wilson
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short and
probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
enough to short out and blow the breaker.

If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???

My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
Wilson

"Jack" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve
you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.


Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.


.



  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.


This is the best idea yet. Upgrading the wiring to the motor
eliminates the electrical drag (resistance) caused by undersized and
overheated wires. Damn minimalistic engineers.

Pete


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jack
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:05:12 GMT, "Wilson"
wrote:

The load on WW motors is generally very light. You didn't say what tool is
involved, but any motor should be fine, assuming it doesn't have a
manufacturing fault.
Wilson
"Jack" wrote in message
...


It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
years old. Yesterday, I used it continuously for about two hours and
it starts making a funny noise, the motor's thermal overload tripped
and quit. I opened the machine panel and smell the insulation, the
motor was warm, not hot. After it cooled down, it started with the
funny noise again and quit, this time my 20 amps panel's breaker
tripped.

I am thinking of replacing it with a 2hp Farm duty motor which is
cheaper than a Leeson's continuous cycle motor, or buy a Grizzle's
1-1/2hp motor. I really don't think the motor is kaput, maybe the
motor's insulation is bad or the power wire is a 8 ft,16/3 gauge.
Maybe, if I replace it with a 12/3 it may help? Any suggest or should
I go ahead and replace the 1-1/2hp motor with a Farm duty 2hp motor.

Thanks again.



  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jack
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.


Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.


..
  #14   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jack
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:10:50 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Then a phase converter to run it on.


A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you
think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power
wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power
wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the
control panel?



"Juergen Hannappel" wrote in message
...
(Jack) writes:


[...]


It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two


For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
motor.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel
http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23




  #15   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


"Jack" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 22:44:58 GMT, "Wilson"
wrote:

I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short
and
probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
enough to short out and blow the breaker.


I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it.


If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???

My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
Wilson

"Jack" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve
you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.

Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.


.




The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad thermal
switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really isn't much
that can't be fixed.
Jim




  #16   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
todd
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


"Jim" wrote in message
. com...

"Jack" wrote in message
I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.


The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad
thermal switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really
isn't much that can't be fixed.
Jim


The question is, what can be done for less than the cost of another motor.
When I had to replace a 1 3/4 HP motor a while back, I called a place
looking for rebuilt units. They told me they don't even bother rebuilding
anything less than 10HP. Start capacitors and thermal switches might be
easily replaceable, but I wonder about getting a smallish motor rewound.

todd


  #17   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Lew Hodgett
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

Somebody asked:

Any idea if the motor still salvageable?


Yes, but at what price.

I have been out of the motor business for over 25 years.

Back then anything below 10HP was automatically scrapped because you
could replace it for less than the rebuild price.

Would not surprise me if the cut off is 15HP these days.

Lew
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jack
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 22:44:58 GMT, "Wilson"
wrote:

I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short and
probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
enough to short out and blow the breaker.


I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it.


If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???

My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
Wilson

"Jack" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve
you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.


Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.


.




  #19   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


"todd" wrote in message
...

"Jim" wrote in message
. com...

"Jack" wrote in message
I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.


The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad
thermal switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really
isn't much that can't be fixed.
Jim


The question is, what can be done for less than the cost of another motor.
When I had to replace a 1 3/4 HP motor a while back, I called a place
looking for rebuilt units. They told me they don't even bother rebuilding
anything less than 10HP. Start capacitors and thermal switches might be
easily replaceable, but I wonder about getting a smallish motor rewound.

todd

I didn't mention costs because that subject is one for discussion between
the OP and the rebuilder. In all likelihood, though, it would be cheaper to
replace a motor with a bad field.

Jim


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Josh
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.


Jack wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:10:50 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Then a phase converter to run it on.


A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you
think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power
wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power
wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the
control panel?


An undersized wire will have too much resistance, thereby drawing LESS
current, not more. Because of the higher resistance, more power is
dissipated in the wire; therefore it heats up, eventually getting hot
enough to melt the metal (and/or start a fire) resulting in an OPEN
circuit, not a short circuit.

1.5 HP is a little over 1100 watts. At 220V, that's around 5 amps of
current. 16/3 shouldn't have any problem handling 5 amps. If you're
running it at 115V, you're closer to 10 amps, which is still okay for
16 ga. wire. Personally, I'd replace the wire with 12/3, but don't
expect it to solve your issue.

Josh



  #22   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Chris Friesen
 
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Default Question on Woodworking Motor and Farm Duty Motor.

Andy Dingley wrote:

TEFC is the crucial thing to look out for. Woodworking is a hard
environment for dust.


TEFC is most-needed in a cabinet saw or hybrid where the motor is
enclosed with all the sawdust.

For something like a bandsaw/planer/jointer, it's probably overkill.

Even in a contractor's saw (with the motor hanging out the back) it's
not necessary (although probably nice). I had an ancient Rockwell saw
with an ODP motor on it. Seemed to work fine.

Chris
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