I used to use a Paslode corrugated fastener gun to edge-join slabs of PB
to create countertops shapes prior to laminating.
Such gun, these days is a lot of money... like $500.00
I did find a XC1016 Spotnail gun, but up here, in Kanukistan, they still
want over $500.00 if one includes shipping and a minimum of 11,000
fasteners (real number, btw)
For the odd time I will still do a laminate top, I would still like to
find a way to join two pieces of particle board substrate in a flat and
strong fashion.
Tonight, I used my Kreg jig and the end result of my test was rather
promising.
Now I'm thinking if I added a couple of biscuits and/or used a routed
glue-joint (either wavy bit or glue-up joint) AND pocket screws...??

Any other ideas?

That is certainly one of the things the Kreg was designed to
do. The more you use their tools, the more you like them.

I have built several large cases using biscuits and pocket
hole screws in combo and it's a pretty nice combination.
The biscuits "line it up" and the screws "tighten it up".

The "original" purpose of the Kreg was face frames, so all
you are doing is "large" face frames ????

Robatoy wrote:

I used to use a Paslode corrugated fastener gun to edge-join slabs of PB
to create countertops shapes prior to laminating.


Tonight, I used my Kreg jig and the end result of my test was rather
promising.
Now I'm thinking if I added a couple of biscuits and/or used a routed
glue-joint (either wavy bit or glue-up joint) AND pocket screws...??

In article .com,
"bikerb422" wrote:

Robotoy,

I have done the same as you with the corrugated gun. It was fast and
fairly strong. But now that I do this more or less as a hobby now, I
just use corrugated fasteners with a hammer. They still hold the same.
I have even fastened my pine face frames with them for a formica
cabinet. Two from the back side and one in the center from the front.

-Regards

Bruce

Hammer, eh...mmm..are you using the same fasteners as those supplied for the
guns?

I have used the ones from the gun. I just use dykes to split them
apart. Or I have used the ones you can buy that are separate.

Bruce

r:

I don't do much laminate work anymore unless it is a small job. That's
a job best left to the pros, eh?

When I do have a small job I can burn through, I use the hand driven
corrugated fasteners (not the one with the ears on the them; the old
fashioned corrugated type) and pound them in with my 22 oz hammer.
With laminate on it, it never moves.

I saw this:

http://tinyurl.com/gcwg4

but have not owned a Spotnails gun in years, so quality is unknown.

My question to you is this: Are you paying a lot to get tools from the
USA to the frozen tundra? Looks like this setup could be had for $230,
plus another $55 in nails... so how much would it be from them to you
with shipping? I am not saying to buy the gun, I don't know anything
about it. But there are a lot of suppliers out there, and I am sure
that shipping to Canada wouldn't be a problem.

Inquiring minds want to know.

Also, didja get the pinner?

R

In article . com,
wrote:

r:

I don't do much laminate work anymore unless it is a small job. That's
a job best left to the pros, eh?

At this rate, I might be a pro someday.

I end up with laminate jobs when the client wants either granite,
engineered stone or solid surfacing for an island but the total budget
isn't quite there. As a last resort, I can then suggest to do the rest
of the counters in a custom laminate with a solid surface edge or
something along those lines in order to save some money... and clinch
the deal. Deal clinching is a lot on my mind lately as I am gearing up
for some serious decisions. ( bigger premises/CNC)
Believe me. it is not something I go looking for. It's not really
terrible work, and the money is still decent...but that PB dust...
I also use a nice adhesive technology which is airless and very quick
drying. http://tinyurl.com/zb8ud

When I do have a small job I can burn through, I use the hand driven
corrugated fasteners (not the one with the ears on the them; the old
fashioned corrugated type) and pound them in with my 22 oz hammer.
With laminate on it, it never moves.

I'm still not sure which fastener you mean. Is it designed for a hammer?

It's the XC1016 I was looking at. I can't find anybody to endorse it or
tell me tall tales of hate.

My question to you is this: Are you paying a lot to get tools from the
USA to the frozen tundra? Looks like this setup could be had for $230,
plus another $55 in nails... so how much would it be from them to you
with shipping? I am not saying to buy the gun, I don't know anything
about it. But there are a lot of suppliers out there, and I am sure
that shipping to Canada wouldn't be a problem.

The shipping costs have a lot to do with wind direction. The dogs don't
run well into an Arctic Clipper wind system. Most shipping companies
have 'snow-depth' surcharges, usually by the foot. So, when the summer
comes, which is often on a Tuesday, the Spotnails will cost me $375.00
but the *******s have to sell me 11,000 fasteners for $121.00 plus tax
and shipping. Plus, of course, the costs for the Coast Guard to send an
icebreaker to get me to the post office.
So, in order to deliver this particular job, I have run additional tests
with the Kreg jig and I am satisfied with the results...

Inquiring minds want to know.

Also, didja get the pinner?

I am ordering the Cadex 23.35 next time I'm going to do some small
trim.... it's a 'must have'. I found some people on Woodweb who just
love those pinners.
The PC pinner won't sink the nails, but I learned of a fix: grind the
nose down.

R

r

Robatoy wrote:

I'm still not sure which fastener you mean. Is it designed for a
hammer?

Absolutely. This design is as old as the hills, and the corrugations
are sharp, and most of them have a slight angle (you can buy them
straight, though) to help draw the joint together. Note that these
come a box of 25 units, carded at 6 in each unit if I am reading this
correctly.

http://tinyurl.com/pbhrw

The correct method of installation is to tap on one side, then the
other to finally wind up hitting the fastener in the middle to sink it
flush.

I learned to use these bad boys before biscuits; before loose tennons;
well before Kreg screw to make the classic rail/stile face attached to
a carcass style of cabinet making.
There is a written description halfway down the right hand side of the
page on this link:

http://tinyurl.com/lbprs

Check the upper quarter of the page, in the middle, and it will give
you a "next" button to turn to the referenced illustration. Feel free
to gasp in horror as you stare at what we did 30 years ago.... newer
woodworkers should avert their eyes....

No fancy gadgetry, just good cuts and little glue on both sides of the
joint. Put it face down on a very smooth surface and hammered those
babies in. If we had good soft maple, we didn't even clamp them to
keep from moving. With harder wood, we would put on a large pipe clamp
to on the face to compress it until it was secured. These joints
worked absolutely great by the way, and with a couple of brads holding
the glued face on until the next day, we never had failures. I was
taught this method from a master of all things wood that had learned it
25 years before showing me!

I don't know anything about the Cadex gun except what I read online, so
please post what you find out. I am really, really, reluctant to
purchase any pneumatic fastening system of any sort that doesn't have
any local support. If I buy a specialty gun and it goes out, I am
screwed until I can get it fixed. In some cases that is no big deal;
in come cases (like this type of gun which is so job specific) it could
be tragedy.

I am waiting to buy a pinner until I get the next mantle I need to put
dentils on. The last one was tragic. The dentils were 1/4" thick
white oak, and my 18 ga. shattered the damn things every time I shot
it. You're gonna laugh... but I wound up putting on the dentils with
my old friend 5 minute expoxy and some clamps. With molding that
small, the paint will literally hold it in place when it is secured,
and it wasn't nearly as painful to glue as it sounds.

I had no idea you guys got screwed so badly with the shipping prices. I
take it for granted here that our shipping runs anywhere from a little
pricey to just downright cheap. Generally there are no considerations
for any conditions other than distance that I know of with a few normal
exceptions. And really, few of those.

Some things you just take for granted, I guess.

R

In article ,
says...
I used to use a Paslode corrugated fastener gun to edge-join slabs of PB
to create countertops shapes prior to laminating.
Such gun, these days is a lot of money... like $500.00
I did find a XC1016 Spotnail gun, but up here, in Kanukistan, they still
want over $500.00 if one includes shipping and a minimum of 11,000
fasteners (real number, btw)
For the odd time I will still do a laminate top, I would still like to
find a way to join two pieces of particle board substrate in a flat and
strong fashion.
Tonight, I used my Kreg jig and the end result of my test was rather
promising.
Now I'm thinking if I added a couple of biscuits and/or used a routed
glue-joint (either wavy bit or glue-up joint) AND pocket screws...??

Any other ideas?

Yep -- Flip-Bolts.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?productID=FSC-0020

wrote:

Absolutely. This design is as old as the hills, and the corrugations
are sharp, and most of them have a slight angle (you can buy them
straight, though) to help draw the joint together. Note that these
come a box of 25 units, carded at 6 in each unit if I am reading this
correctly.

I remember these from my yoot ... seems all the cheapo outdoor furniture
used them (japanese joinery).

You'll also remember the eventual streaky rust stains, like pee running down
a leg.

Now, if Norm was as bad as everyone say's, and was a REAL old time
carpenter, the famous quote would be:

"Just a few corrugated fasteners hammered in to hold it 'til the glue dries"

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

In article ,
Doug Miller wrote:

Any other ideas?

Yep -- Flip-Bolts.

Good one!... Those can save a lot time in the right application.
Never seen them before...I guess I don't get out much, eh?

Thanks, Doug.


r

In article , Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
Doug Miller wrote:

Any other ideas?

Yep -- Flip-Bolts.

Good one!... Those can save a lot time in the right application.
Never seen them before...I guess I don't get out much, eh?

I saw them for the first time about five weeks ago at the Woodworking Show.

Thanks, Doug.


Don't mention it. Glad to help.
r

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Swingman wrote:

Now, if Norm was as bad as everyone say's, and was a REAL old time
carpenter, the famous quote would be:


"Just a few corrugated fasteners hammered in to hold it 'til the glue
dries"

Now that picture made me LMAO. I could just see it perfectly; Norm
with glue all over his fingers and just bashing that fastener into
place. Perfect!

Robert