I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop - not
with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts are
simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have developed
tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

"matthew silver" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts
are simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have
developed tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt



Although my saw isn't the greatest (far from it), I would never buy a table
saw that didn't have a solid cast iron table.

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

Plastic parts.


"matthew silver" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts
are simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have
developed tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

Matt,
I have a Ryobi BT3100 and it isn't a bad intro saw if you are just getting
started and aren't sure if you want to commit to an expensive cabinet saw.
The unit itself is pretty cheap and as you have found there are a bunch of
after market accessories for it.

However, words of warning; by the time you equip the unit with all of the
bells and whistles you will probably want as you get more serious you will
have spent as much if not more for a decent cabinet saw.

I am speaking from experience as I bought a packaged deal (extension
tables, micro-adjustable fence, router table extension) from a company that
will go unmentioned and although it is a good product, I spent way too much
for it. Now I am left with an average setup but not near as nice as a
comporably priced cabinet saw.

Live an learn. I just hope my mistakes will help others.


"matthew silver" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts
are simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have
developed tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

I like mine because I can load it by myself and take it to the job.
Replacing the motor costs almost as much as the saw and I seem to replace
the motor much to often. Is portability important to you? Will you mind
spending over $200 for a motor once in a while?

"matthew silver" wrote in message

small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!

Simple solution: New wife, new house, new Unisaw.

"matthew silver" wrote:

I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.
I'll get to your main question, but first, what do you mean by "a much
larger fence system"? I don't see much difference in the sizes of
fences--some, but not to the extent that one is considered much larger
than another.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop - not
with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts are
simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have developed
tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?

Matt, I have one, which I like very much. I think it is an incredible
machine for the money. Sometimes the "cult-like following" forgets the
"for the money" phrase, resulting in a gross overstatement and this
sometimes gets strong reaction. While I appreciate the engineering and
manufacturing that went into this saw that you can get for not a whole
lot more than a good circular saw, it is no cabinet saw.

Here are some tradeoffs:
Aluminum main casting. I have no problems with the auxiliary table and
sliding miter table, but the main casting is too flexible. The base
needs to be solid and square if you want the saw to be accurate. If it
is not, the table has enough flex to twist unacceptably. While this
saw may be okay as a portable for rough carpentry, you wouldn't want
to do precision joinery after toting it in the bed of your truck.

Universal motor, lack of power. The universal motor screams, but not
as badly as I anticipated. It is underpowered compared to a cabinet
saw, but not much compared to most contractor's saws. Shouldn't be too
much of a problem for your stated mission, just don't feed 12/4 oak
through too fast! g

Lack of miter slots. These are available after market, but still are
not standard configuration. Many jigs (store bought, or plans in mags,
books, etc.) run in the miter slots and will not work with the BT3100
as is. I haven't found that to be an issue--you can usually vary the
design to work.

Setup and alignment could be easier. however, once set up, my
understanding is that it holds its alignment very well. I don't have
enough first-hand experience to confirm that, but a friend who has
been using one for several years claims this.

The fence is a PITA to get on and off, (which I believe to be the case
with lots of OEM fences). There is a very nice after-market fence that
is easily removable while the riving knife stays in place.

On the positive side, the sliding miter table is much better (IMO)
than a miter gauge. But I still plan to build a crosscut sled for
really precision work. And the fence locks very solidly, and with
alignment that is very repeatable. I have my fence aligned to be
about .002" farther from the back of the (fully raised) blade than the
front, and repeatedly moving and relocking it varied this reading by
no more than +/- .002". The aluminum extrusions used for the rails and
fences are very rigid and straight. The stock blade is very good
(again, for the price--no, it's not a Forrestg). Blade runout at the
rim on my saw was .003". The riving knife is great -- the stock one
that is part of the guard assembly, or one you can make from sheet
stock--I used Lexan.

No tool should be mistreated. But while this saw is not "fragile", if
I get clumsy moving a 10' 2x12 through the shop and have an end swing
into a tool, I'd rather it hit my Delta bandsaw or Jet jointer than
this saw.

Hopefully this gives you some sense for the tradeoffs. I think it
would be an excellent choice for the mission you described, subject to
clarification of what you mean by a larger fence system.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"Tom H" wrote:

Plastic parts.

Presumably you are not against all plastic (or I wonder what tools you
have in your shopg), so I presume you are talking about plastic
parts you feel should be made of metal. Which parts specifically are
you referring to? Most of the ones I think of are things that make
sense to be of plastic (covers, handles, friction locks on the movable
rails, etc.) I hope there are not significant plastic parts that are
not properly engineered for their role, that I will be replacing
often.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"Mark Brubaker" wrote:

Matt,
I have a Ryobi BT3100 and it isn't a bad intro saw if you are just getting
started and aren't sure if you want to commit to an expensive cabinet saw.
The unit itself is pretty cheap and as you have found there are a bunch of
after market accessories for it.

However, words of warning; by the time you equip the unit with all of the
bells and whistles you will probably want as you get more serious you will
have spent as much if not more for a decent cabinet saw.
Mark, I have to call you on this one. The BT3100 costs $300 if you buy
it with no sale or rebate going. A decent cabinet saw starts at around
$1,000 for a bare-bones Grizzly 1023. How in the world can you spend
$700 on accessories for the BT3100? Certainly if you do, you will have
extended its capabilities far beyond those of a basic cabinet saw
(such as by adding a router to the auxiliary table, etc.

Well, actually, I know a way. Believe it or not, JoinTech has a
version of their fence system for the BT3100. 60" saw train for only
$1.200!!! http://www.jointech.com/ryobi_sawtrain.htm . But anyone who
would put a $1,200 fence system on a $300 saw is in serious need of
professional help, IMHO.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"matthew silver" wrote:

In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Presumably you found BT3Central.com If not, check them out. User-run
site not affiliated with Ryobi. Lots of good tips, discussion boards
will show problems/question that new owners have.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...obiBT3100K.htm
Has its pros and cons, like any saw.

--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- Ryobi One+ Cordless Tool System
- Festool CT Mini Dust Extractor
- Kreg K3 Pocket Hole Joinery System
- Incra Miter Express
- Book: Scroll Saw Fundamentals
- Ryobi BT3100K Table Saw System
------------------------------------------------------------

Why compare it to a cabinet saw? By the time you trick out one of these
"worksite" saws you've spent as much money as you would for a good
contractor saw (Delta, Jet, General, Powermatic, hell even Woodtech or
Grizzly). The contractor has a cast iron table, induction motor, and is
available from entry level steel stamped wings and 30" fence to cast iron
wings and 50" comercial fence sysems for about 1/2 the price of a cabinet
saw. They also accept all standard tablesaw accessories (miter gauges,
tenoning jigs ect.). If you don't have to throw it in the back of a pickup
every morning, why buy a 'worksite saw?


"Mark Brubaker" wrote in message
. ..
Matt,
I have a Ryobi BT3100 and it isn't a bad intro saw if you are just
getting
started and aren't sure if you want to commit to an expensive cabinet saw.
The unit itself is pretty cheap and as you have found there are a bunch of
after market accessories for it.

However, words of warning; by the time you equip the unit with all of
the
bells and whistles you will probably want as you get more serious you will
have spent as much if not more for a decent cabinet saw.

I am speaking from experience as I bought a packaged deal (extension
tables, micro-adjustable fence, router table extension) from a company
that
will go unmentioned and although it is a good product, I spent way too
much
for it. Now I am left with an average setup but not near as nice as a
comporably priced cabinet saw.

Live an learn. I just hope my mistakes will help others.


"matthew silver" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger
fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy
to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture /
hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts
are simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have
developed tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

Hi Alexy,
You mean the blade guard is a PITA not the fence, right? JG

alexy wrote:

"matthew silver" wrote:

I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.
I'll get to your main question, but first, what do you mean by "a much
larger fence system"? I don't see much difference in the sizes of
fences--some, but not to the extent that one is considered much larger
than another.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop - not
with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts are
simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have developed
tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?

Matt, I have one, which I like very much. I think it is an incredible
machine for the money. Sometimes the "cult-like following" forgets the
"for the money" phrase, resulting in a gross overstatement and this
sometimes gets strong reaction. While I appreciate the engineering and
manufacturing that went into this saw that you can get for not a whole
lot more than a good circular saw, it is no cabinet saw.

Here are some tradeoffs:
Aluminum main casting. I have no problems with the auxiliary table and
sliding miter table, but the main casting is too flexible. The base
needs to be solid and square if you want the saw to be accurate. If it
is not, the table has enough flex to twist unacceptably. While this
saw may be okay as a portable for rough carpentry, you wouldn't want
to do precision joinery after toting it in the bed of your truck.

Universal motor, lack of power. The universal motor screams, but not
as badly as I anticipated. It is underpowered compared to a cabinet
saw, but not much compared to most contractor's saws. Shouldn't be too
much of a problem for your stated mission, just don't feed 12/4 oak
through too fast! g

Lack of miter slots. These are available after market, but still are
not standard configuration. Many jigs (store bought, or plans in mags,
books, etc.) run in the miter slots and will not work with the BT3100
as is. I haven't found that to be an issue--you can usually vary the
design to work.

Setup and alignment could be easier. however, once set up, my
understanding is that it holds its alignment very well. I don't have
enough first-hand experience to confirm that, but a friend who has
been using one for several years claims this.

The fence is a PITA to get on and off, (which I believe to be the case
with lots of OEM fences). There is a very nice after-market fence that
is easily removable while the riving knife stays in place.

On the positive side, the sliding miter table is much better (IMO)
than a miter gauge. But I still plan to build a crosscut sled for
really precision work. And the fence locks very solidly, and with
alignment that is very repeatable. I have my fence aligned to be
about .002" farther from the back of the (fully raised) blade than the
front, and repeatedly moving and relocking it varied this reading by
no more than +/- .002". The aluminum extrusions used for the rails and
fences are very rigid and straight. The stock blade is very good
(again, for the price--no, it's not a Forrestg). Blade runout at the
rim on my saw was .003". The riving knife is great -- the stock one
that is part of the guard assembly, or one you can make from sheet
stock--I used Lexan.

No tool should be mistreated. But while this saw is not "fragile", if
I get clumsy moving a 10' 2x12 through the shop and have an end swing
into a tool, I'd rather it hit my Delta bandsaw or Jet jointer than
this saw.

Hopefully this gives you some sense for the tradeoffs. I think it
would be an excellent choice for the mission you described, subject to
clarification of what you mean by a larger fence system.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"matthew silver" wrote in message

small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!

Simple solution: New wife, new house, new Unisaw.


He could go new or only slightly used on all three!

Barry

JGS wrote:

Hi Alexy,
You mean the blade guard is a PITA not the fence, right? JG

alexy wrote:
snip

The fence is a PITA to get on and off, (which I believe to be the case
with lots of OEM fences). There is a very nice after-market fence that
is easily removable while the riving knife stays in place.

Absolutely. How the heck did I ever write that paragraph? I do know
the difference between a fence and a blade guard. Honest. I do.

Thanks for the catch.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

I've been running it's predecessor (but basically identical saw) for 6
years and it has performed admirably with every task I have thrown at
it. For what they are selling it for today it is an awesome deal.

It's not the most powerful of saws and will self destruct (motor) if
you overstress it, often with little or no warning, which is it's main
con. Acknowledge this and treat it with respect and you will not have
any problems.

Apart from this it has limitations which if you understand before
purchasing you will not be disappointed.

Search the archives for the very funny story from Tom Watson
about his purchase of the very same saw.

matthew silver wrote:

I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have developed
tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

===============
I have NOT read the other replies.... BUT

My one son owns a BT3100 and it DOES WORK for him...(very causal
usage)..

Personally I do a lot of woodworking and I would not even think of
owning one for the work I do... My impressions of HIS saw...

Small and very light, underpowered, I question how long the saw could
hold alignment the sliding table is a great idea BUT his is not
capable of making the same cut more then 6-7 times before you have to
reset everything ...

BUT for him it is a HELL OF A GOOD SAW... extremely inexpensive and
will (I think) last him until I die and he gets my cabinet saw...

Just my opinion... really depends on what you ask the saw to do..

Bob G..

Bob G. wrote:

Just my opinion... really depends on what you ask the saw to do..

And that is the best summary. I really like mine because it does what
I want it to do. But it definitely won't do what some others may want
it to do (a la Watson's humorous but on-target post)

===============
I have NOT read the other replies.... BUT

My one son owns a BT3100 and it DOES WORK for him...(very causal
usage)..

Personally I do a lot of woodworking and I would not even think of
owning one for the work I do... My impressions of HIS saw...

Small and very light, underpowered, I question how long the saw could
hold alignment the sliding table is a great idea BUT his is not
capable of making the same cut more then 6-7 times before you have to
reset everything ...

BUT for him it is a HELL OF A GOOD SAW... extremely inexpensive and
will (I think) last him until I die and he gets my cabinet saw...

Hey, if when the time comes he is still happy with the BT3100, can I
have the cabinet saw? g
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

IMHO, while Hitachi and Makita portables are available, it's a
no-brainer to me. And, I've beaten on such a Hitachi for 7 years. So
far, all the Ryobi tools I've encountered are kinda "light in the
loafers."

J

I was in a tool repair store once talking to the guy who did the work,
and noticed a Ryobi tool on the bench. I asked him about it, and he
said that he got at least one of their tools a week to repair. I have
had a used Unisaw that I got for $1,000 for 12 years, which hasn't been
used heavily (less than 200 hrs. per year) and the only thing I have
ever done to it is change the blades. Rather than the Ryobi, I would
shop the garage and estate sales, and tool section of the want adds for
something better.
robo hippy

wrote:

IMHO, while Hitachi and Makita portables are available, it's a
no-brainer to me. And, I've beaten on such a Hitachi for 7 years. So
far, all the Ryobi tools I've encountered are kinda "light in the
loafers."

If you are going to be using it as a portable and beating on it, I
agree. This saw is not well suited (IMHO) as one you throw in the bed
of a truck and stick a cinder block under a leg to get it nearly level
before working with it. As an inexpensive solution for a shop saw, I
think it is great. But not as a job site saw.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

What are the cons of this machine ?

Just look at it; it is a toy. "Will you mind
spending over $200 for a motor once in a while?" Geez.

For about the price of the motor, you can get a nice used contractors saw.
It will be more durable, precise, and powerful. Any you won't ever have to
replace the motor.

"Toller" wrote:


What are the cons of this machine ?

Just look at it; it is a toy. "Will you mind
spending over $200 for a motor once in a while?" Geez.

For about the price of the motor, you can get a nice used contractors saw.
It will be more durable, precise, and powerful. Any you won't ever have to
replace the motor.

Interesting the visceral reaction this saw engenders in some. Have you
ever used one? Or is this just based on how it looks compared to how
you think a saw should look? There are lots of people/uses for which
this saw would be a poor choice. I guess that list needs to be
expanded to include people who are concerned with the visual image a
saw projects! g

There may be perfectly legitimate reasons that a used contractor saw
may be a better choice for some (or even "most"; I won't quibble about
the fraction) people. To me, "looks like a REAL tool" is not high on
my priority list.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

In spite of what others may say because they only buy $3000 pieces of
machinery, its an excellent saw for the price. I love mine and have no
regrets at all for having bought it. I too am a hobbiest with needs
similar to yours and this saw fits my needs perfectly.
John

matthew silver wrote:
I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop - not
with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts are
simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have developed
tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

B a r r y wrote:
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"matthew silver" wrote in message

small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop
- not with this wife atleast )!


Simple solution: New wife, new house, new Unisaw.


He could go new or only slightly used on all three!

Barry

Not me! She would have to be virginal. Then she would have no idea
how poorly I perform.

I like mine but I wanted a light weight but belt drive saw for occasional
ripping duty. My Hitachi miter saw can do most everything else. The blade
that comes with it is actually pretty decent and so is the fence. I got mine
on sale at $199 and a $50 rebate and nothing else was close in the price
range. If you hurry Amazon has a deal going on purchase depending on the
purchase amount and for example you could get a Delta TS350 for $314.99
shipped which is getting some pretty good reviews for a lower priced table
saw. --- Steve

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

"matthew silver" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger fence
system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat although
different saw.
In my initial Googling research, I found that additional rails are easy to
acquire from Ryobi and that the saw has a cult like following.

Requirements:

Annual Run time: under 50 hours / home dyi / furniture / hobbyist
small foot print: (I'm not moving so I can have a bigger shop -
not with this wife atleast )!
set up & accurate easy / uncomplicated set up where repeatable cuts
are simple
long lasting / well built - not a "5 season machine"
large cutting capacity - with / available extension rails
my list goes on, but excludes the unreasonable

I have only read good things about the BT3100 - maybe I may have
developed tunnel vision

What are the cons of this machine ?


Thanks in advance
Matt

LQQkIE YONDER wrote:


Not me! She would have to be virginal. Then she would have no idea how
poorly I perform.


True. You'd be the best she's had!

Look at it this way, if you buy a brand new fully loaded car and then
try to tow an 6000lb trailer then don't bitch when the transmission
breaks.

Just look at it; it is a toy. "Will you mind spending over $3000 for a
transmission once in a while?" Geez.

Of course, using your logic, for the price of the transmission you
could have bought an 10 year old base model truck that would tow this
trailer admirably.

The point I'm making, of course, is that the choice should be made
based the intended application and desired features. The BT has a rich
set of features that make it safe, easy to use and very accurate at an
excellent price point. It is most definately intended for light use and
as Tom points out he is most definately a "home boy". If this fits the
requirements I don't see what the problem is.

Oh, and by the way, if you don't like the saw you can dismantle it and
sell it as spares and recoup most, if not all, of your original
purchase price. Now try doing that with a Unisaw!

I've had one for about three years and like it fine. It's in my garage
shop, next to much more expensive tools that I use more often (jointer,
planer, band saw, etc.). For my needs it was a perfect combination of
price point and features at a quality level that has yielded no
problems at all. I build only furniture and don't use the table saw
nearly as often as the band saw, but for my purposes the Ryobi has been
great.

-kiwanda

"matthew silver" wrote in
:

I am considering a new tablesaw, mostly because I need a much larger
fence system.

I came across the Ryobi BT3100 - which looks like a pretty neat
although different saw.
[...]

What are the cons of this machine ?


Read what the cult-like following had to say about
what they would change:

http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4726

One owner has gone to the trouble of completely redesigning
the riving knife/blade guard/anti-kickback pawl assembly.
(http://www.leestyron.com/) Since he's now selling his
design adapted to other saws, that con isn't unique to the
BT3100. There are various other workarounds.

I think some of the people who've had trouble aligning the saw
or keeping it aligned got lemons, so quality control might be
a con. I move mine around the shop a bit and take the rip fence
and sliding table off and put them back on and everything stays
square. If you get one, test it out and take it back if it won't
align readily or hold alignment.

I personally would prefer metal over plastic for the blade
height/angle handwheel. I would also prefer two separate
handwheels. I would like the table flat, instead of ribbed,
and deeper, with more infeed table space. But I wouldn't
give up the riving knife and sliding table and good dust
collection and small footprint and $200-$300 more dollars to
get a contractor saw that had metal handwheels and a smooth table.

Don't forget you can buy it, assemble it, and test it out on the
kinds of cuts you're planning to make. If it works for you, you
have saved $$$. If not, return it, you're only out one weekend's
worth of shop time.

--
Jerry