I finished the top of my workbench and now I'm making two sets of
drawers to support the top. (This is all similar to the workbench in
the current issue of American Woodworker.)

Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

Mike

Trying to save money on materials is IMHO a waste of time. If you want to
make wooden slides for esthetic or other reasons, that's fine, but just to
save money....

wrote in message
oups.com...
I finished the top of my workbench and now I'm making two sets of
drawers to support the top. (This is all similar to the workbench in
the current issue of American Woodworker.)

Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

Mike

wrote in message

I finished the top of my workbench and now I'm making two sets of
drawers to support the top.

Interesting use of drawers ...

Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each).

Actually, full extension drawer slides look like ****, but only you can
determine whether they are worth the price for your application.

If you would like/need to have them, $30 more on a project you've spent
_your_ time and effort on is not "expensive". Generally speaking, if it's
worth your time in doing any woodworking project, you soon learn that you
will be eternally kicking yourself in the butt for not using the best
materials available to you at the time.

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

The good ones will make the metal versions look like bargains and. if you do
them yourself, and unless you're making a fine furniture project, you will
probably find they take much more time and effort.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

If you would like/need to have them, $30 more on a project you've spent
_your_ time and effort on is not "expensive".

If it was $30 I would do it. But I'm talking four drawers on one side
and three on the other, so...7 x $15 = $105. That's more than the
materials for the entire bench. The top is just 2x4s and
particleboard. This isn't a fancy bench, just a general workbench that
may get relegated to general fix-it work.

Mike

wrote:

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

Easy way...

1. dado in drawer sides

2. hardwood runners to fit dados

3. make drawer backs about 3/8 higher than drawer opening

4. radius top back of dados and bottom front of runners

Now you can pull the drawer out and the back will stop it at the face
frame. Drawer can be removed by tilting front up.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Some but not all. There are the "under drawer"models, which are completely
invisible, function smoothly and are easy to use. Expensive though.

Actually, full extension drawer slides look like ****, but only you can
determine whether they are worth the price for your application.

Check out www.wwhardware.com for details on slides. After fighting to
see in the back of drawers with 3/4 extension slides I buy only full
extension now and enjoy every one of them. Haven't gone back to
change the 3/4 slides yet but have considered it. Make a couple of
drawers and compare before committing to either.

On 6 Jan 2006 09:49:08 -0800, wrote:

I finished the top of my workbench and now I'm making two sets of
drawers to support the top. (This is all similar to the workbench in
the current issue of American Woodworker.)

Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

Mike

wrote in message
Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

They will be fine until you want something in the back 1/3 of the drawer.
Then you will curse saving the few bucks the full slides cost.

wrote in message
oups.com...
:I finished the top of my workbench and now I'm making two sets
of
: drawers to support the top. (This is all similar to the
workbench in
: the current issue of American Woodworker.)
:
: Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also
expensive
: (about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not
coming
: out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?
:
: I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides,
but no
: details.
:
: Mike
:
Full extensions let you get at the back of the drawer a lot
easier, especially if, as most like to, you want to set the
drawer fronts back in a couple of inches from the top of the
benchtop.
I would opt to spend the little bit of extra cash but ymmv I
suppose.

Pop

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 21:17:26 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


wrote in message
Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

They will be fine until you want something in the back 1/3 of the drawer.
Then you will curse saving the few bucks the full slides cost.


Maybe. I'm planning on either making 6 drawers or 6 doors. The
quality drawer slides I looked at were $250 (ouch!) for a set of three
drawer slides, supposedly will hold 500 lbs. The cost is high,
especially compared to 12 hinges for about $20. Then, I wonder about
cheaper drawer slides and if there would be adequate for the
application.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2006 04:49:43 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Phisherman quickly quoth:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 21:17:26 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


wrote in message
Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

They will be fine until you want something in the back 1/3 of the drawer.
Then you will curse saving the few bucks the full slides cost.


Maybe. I'm planning on either making 6 drawers or 6 doors. The
quality drawer slides I looked at were $250 (ouch!) for a set of three
drawer slides, supposedly will hold 500 lbs. The cost is high,
especially compared to 12 hinges for about $20. Then, I wonder about
cheaper drawer slides and if there would be adequate for the
application.

Look at the ratings. They guarantee 'em for 50k-75k cycles @ load.
If your load is less and frequency is less, the less expensive slides
(with metal balls, not polymer) should work just fine. Even the cheap
slides are strong enough to stand on without deforming (though not
at the handle end at full extension.) Slide manufacturers know about
people like us, tool users, who will overload the **** out of drawers.
I believe their slides are just slightly underrated.

--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design

wrote in message
If you would like/need to have them, $30 more on a project you've spent
_your_ time and effort on is not "expensive".

If it was $30 I would do it. But I'm talking four drawers on one side
and three on the other, so...7 x $15 = $105. That's more than the
materials for the entire bench. The top is just 2x4s and
particleboard. This isn't a fancy bench, just a general workbench that
may get relegated to general fix-it work.

Features most always have a price and only you can decide whether to pay it.
Amortized over the life of your bench, they may still be a bargain in the
long run.

For DIY, a sliding dovetail wooden drawer slide underneath the drawer will
let you get to the entire contents and you can use a 'button' at the back of
the drawer to keep from pulling it all the way out. For a drawer with heavy
tools you might consider two, one on each side of the bottom.

On page 3 of my Projects page there are a couple of wooden drawer slide
options. Although used mostly for fine furniture, take a peek as it may jog
your imagination.

You might also want to consider waxed wooden rails, fastened to each side of
the drawer, that ride in a waxed groove on the cabinet sides, with a button
in the back to keep from over extending the drawer. That would be a less
expensive option, but may be subject to wear over the years in a shop
environment, and depending upon what heavy stuff you keep in the drawers.

That said, and having been through the battle many times, I still think full
extension, commercial drawer slides are the way to go in shop bench drawers.

What you lose on the banana's, you make on the oranges.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

On Sun, 8 Jan 2006 07:55:49 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:

.... snip

On page 3 of my Projects page there are a couple of wooden drawer slide
options. Although used mostly for fine furniture, take a peek as it may jog
your imagination. www.e-woodshop.net


Thanks for that posting, I hadn't considered the use of a partially
driven screw for depth adjustment, I'm going to use that for the Captain's
bed drawer adjustments.

One of the other approaches for drawer runners is to cut a groove in the
side of the drawer and mount wooden runners on the inside sides of the
cabinet -- that's what I'm planning for my project. The groove serves as
both runner and kick. Downside is potential wear problems down the road.



.... snip


+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

In article .com,
wrote:

I finished the top of my workbench and now I'm making two sets of
drawers to support the top. (This is all similar to the workbench in
the current issue of American Woodworker.)

Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

Mike


When I put in some workbech area along one side
of my shop about 10 years ago, I put in 4 drawers
right under the length of the top. I used the
standard 3/4 extension slides that were probably
$2 each.

Last summer, the POS slides finally got the better
of me. In order to get new full extension slides
(22 in deep) to work with my nice drawers, I had to
remaount everything and rout out about 1/4 inch
of material on each side of each drawer. Talk about
a PITA. But I'm glad I did it right the second time.

I got the slides from wwhardware.com for something
like $10 each.

Do it right the first time. You'll forget about the
cost in no time.

Lou

You've got a lot of nice projects on your site, Swingman. I wish I had
half the space you have. You do great work.

Mike

Thanks for all the help.

Mike

"Mark & Juanita"wrote in message
On Sun, 8 Jan 2006 07:55:49 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:

... snip

On page 3 of my Projects page there are a couple of wooden drawer slide
options. Although used mostly for fine furniture, take a peek as it may
jog
your imagination. www.e-woodshop.net


Thanks for that posting, I hadn't considered the use of a partially
driven screw for depth adjustment, I'm going to use that for the Captain's
bed drawer adjustments.

That's an elegant solution I first saw my grandfather use over 50 years ago,
and the old cabinetmaker I worked for in England for a while also used it,
so it must be as old as the concept of screws themselves ... I am sure that
both would be tickled to know that their tricks are passed on.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

www.wwhardware.com has a variety of slides in their product line. I'd
NEVER go back to anything but full extension and regret using anything
else.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2006 04:49:43 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 21:17:26 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


wrote in message
Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each). Are the standard slides that limiting by not coming
out all the way? Or is there some other cheaper alternative?

They will be fine until you want something in the back 1/3 of the drawer.
Then you will curse saving the few bucks the full slides cost.


Maybe. I'm planning on either making 6 drawers or 6 doors. The
quality drawer slides I looked at were $250 (ouch!) for a set of three
drawer slides, supposedly will hold 500 lbs. The cost is high,
especially compared to 12 hinges for about $20. Then, I wonder about
cheaper drawer slides and if there would be adequate for the
application.

wrote:

If you would like/need to have them, $30 more on a project you've
spent _your_ time and effort on is not "expensive".

If it was $30 I would do it. But I'm talking four drawers on one side
and three on the other, so...7 x $15 = $105. That's more than the
materials for the entire bench. The top is just 2x4s and
particleboard. This isn't a fancy bench, just a general workbench
that may get relegated to general fix-it work.


Why use drawer slides at all? I've built lots of drawers that just
slide on the bottom of their hardwood sides. Unless you really need
over-extension, or planning on putting a couple hundred pounds of stuff
in each drawer, you don't need slides.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

On 6 Jan 2006 09:49:08 -0800, wrote:


Full extension drawer slides look nice, but they're also expensive
(about $15 each).

You should be able to buy offshore knockoffs of Accuride 3832's for
about $6.00 a pair.

You need to shop from places that sell to commercial cabinetmakers.




Tom Watson - WoodDorker

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)

http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

Personally I don't like the mechanical slides. A properly fitted drawer
works as well as and slide, unless you want full extention. The bottom
of the drawer should be elevated about 1/16 inch (formica, strip of
hard wood, or make the drawer side 1/16 wider than the face). Keep the
runners waxed, so that the drawer slides on the wax, and not wood, and
the drawer can last indefinately. Another plus is that your drawers
will have an extra inch of width.
robo hippy

wrote in message
You've got a lot of nice projects on your site, Swingman. I wish I had
half the space you have. You do great work.

Thank you, Mike.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 15:06:15 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:

I've seen reference to full extension hardwood drawer slides, but no
details.

Easy way...

1. dado in drawer sides

2. hardwood runners to fit dados

3. make drawer backs about 3/8 higher than drawer opening

4. radius top back of dados and bottom front of runners

Now you can pull the drawer out and the back will stop it at the face
frame. Drawer can be removed by tilting front up.

Can I get a detailed explanation of #4, please?

Phisherman wrote:

4. radius top back of dados and bottom front of runners

Now you can pull the drawer out and the back will stop it at the face
frame. Drawer can be removed by tilting front up.

Can I get a detailed explanation of #4, please?

If the dado/runner are close fitting and the back of the drawer is
higher then the opening is wide you won't be able to remove the drawer.
Or even insert it in the first place

The solution is to round over the specified areas with a jig saw, rasp,
sander, whatever. Sort of like a rule joint. For example, imagine you
are holding the runner in front of you looking at the side of it...left
side is the front, right side the back. The front edge is perpendicular
to the top and bottom edges. Now round over that bottom left corner so
it is more or less quarter round rather than square. Do the same at the
top back of the dados.

When you pull the drawer all the way out the too high back will hit the
face frame and prevent it from being pulled out. When you let loose of
the drawer, its weight will cause the drawer front to drop down a bit;
it won't fall because it is supported by the runners; it won't drop very
far because the back contacts the face frame. However - because of the
radiused runners/dados - you can lift the drawer front above
horizontal...doing so pivots the back ...pivoting the back means that
its vertical section becomes less than the drawer opening and that means
the drawer can be removed.

That's about as detailed as I can get. Can't tell you how much to
radius, I just "eyeball it". I make backs about 1/4" higher than the
normal clearance; i.e., if you've allowed 1/8" clearance at the top for
sides and back then add 1/4" to that. I cut off about 25% of the extra
back height adjacent to the sides and round over the proud edges - no
reason other than esthetics.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

http://www.leevalley.com has some resonable prices.