I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?




--
http://www.connoraston.com

Hand sand the little thing. Whatever finish you plan to use can help
determine the final grit needed. Tom

"Connor Aston" writes:
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?

Go up to 180 or 220 on your performax, then hand sand with the grain
to 320. Depending on your finish, of course. If you are painting,
don't bother with the 320.

You should get lines with the performax if it is adjusted and tuned
correctly.

scott

Connor Aston wrote:

I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a
music centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer
marks are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too
many lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?




Random orbit sander, scraper, or scraper plane. 180 or 220 before
applying finish. if staining, don't go too high or oil based stains
won't penetrate. try going to 320+ on maple and then try to stain it.
It won't take. DAMHIKT...


Dave

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message

You should get lines with the performax if it is adjusted and tuned
correctly.

Are there anti-adjust and de-tune instructions to make sure that doesn't
happen?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Scott Lurndal wrote:

"Connor Aston" writes:

I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?


Go up to 180 or 220 on your performax, then hand sand with the grain
to 320. Depending on your finish, of course. If you are painting,
don't bother with the 320.

You should get lines with the performax if it is adjusted and tuned
correctly.

scott
I've read lots of messages about drum sanders leaving lines. it isn't
an adjustment; it's because of the linear path of the sandpaper across
the wood.

Try skewing the workpiece a bit differently each pass and don't take
heavy cuts, according to others.

dave

"David" wrote in message
...
Scott Lurndal wrote:

"Connor Aston" writes:

I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?


Go up to 180 or 220 on your performax, then hand sand with the grain
to 320. Depending on your finish, of course. If you are painting,
don't bother with the 320. You should get lines with the performax if it
is adjusted and tuned
correctly. scott
I've read lots of messages about drum sanders leaving lines. it isn't an
adjustment; it's because of the linear path of the sandpaper across the
wood.

Try skewing the workpiece a bit differently each pass and don't take heavy
cuts, according to others.

dave

Dave,

The skewing of the stock helps prevent snipe. The sanding striations will
still be there, just at a different angle. I've found the best combination
for me is to use the drum sander up to 150, maybe 180 grit, then finish with
180 and 220 on the ROS. If it needs to go to 320, I like to hand-sand it to
insure I don't burnish the wood and mess up the next step of staining. But
that's my personal preference and will vary with the wood and papers you're
using.

Bob S.

"Swingman" writes:

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message

You should get lines with the performax if it is adjusted and tuned
correctly.

Are there anti-adjust and de-tune instructions to make sure that doesn't
happen?

Ooops. should be "should not" not "should".

scott

Bob S wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...

Scott Lurndal wrote:


"Connor Aston" writes:


I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?


Go up to 180 or 220 on your performax, then hand sand with the grain
to 320. Depending on your finish, of course. If you are painting,
don't bother with the 320. You should get lines with the performax if it
is adjusted and tuned
correctly. scott

I've read lots of messages about drum sanders leaving lines. it isn't an
adjustment; it's because of the linear path of the sandpaper across the
wood.

Try skewing the workpiece a bit differently each pass and don't take heavy
cuts, according to others.

dave


Dave,

The skewing of the stock helps prevent snipe. The sanding striations will
still be there, just at a different angle. I've found the best combination
for me is to use the drum sander up to 150, maybe 180 grit, then finish with
180 and 220 on the ROS. If it needs to go to 320, I like to hand-sand it to
insure I don't burnish the wood and mess up the next step of staining. But
that's my personal preference and will vary with the wood and papers you're
using.

Bob S.


Bob, your comments mirror many I've read across the web about drum
sanders; that a ROS is the next step.

dave

"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s2xdu2i8qkab0d@vigor13...
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

I highly recomend the Porter Cable Speed Bloc Finish sander. This is a
serious sander that works day after day for years. Old school design sith a
square bottom, good for inside corners. It will keep up with many ROS's.

If you decide on a orbital sander, get a RANDOM orbital sander.



Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?

For Oak I NEVER go past 180 grit but you do need to use all grades in
between the 100 and final grade that you choose.

"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s2xdu2i8qkab0d@vigor13...
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?




--
http://www.connoraston.com
My preference is the orbital sander. I would judge when to quit increasing
the grade by the appearance of the wood. For things like this, I would stop
at 400.
Jim

Managed to sand to 240 on the random orbital
And have applied the first coat of Danish oil as a sealer
and was going to sand againwith 320 and then put two more coats on
the wax finish? How does this sound?

Also On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 22:13:00 -0000, tom wrote:

Hand sand the little thing. Whatever finish you plan to use can help
determine the final grit needed. Tom




--
www.connoraston.com
If I cant make it - I'll Try!

Do that little sander work on on a large flat surface?

On Fri, 06 Jan 2006 01:24:44 -0000, Leon
wrote:


"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s2xdu2i8qkab0d@vigor13...
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a
music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

I highly recomend the Porter Cable Speed Bloc Finish sander. This is a
serious sander that works day after day for years. Old school design
sith a
square bottom, good for inside corners. It will keep up with many ROS's.

If you decide on a orbital sander, get a RANDOM orbital sander.



Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?

For Oak I NEVER go past 180 grit but you do need to use all grades in
between the 100 and final grade that you choose.





--
www.connoraston.com
If I cant make it - I'll Try!

connor aston wrote:
Do that little sander work on on a large flat surface?

Sure, just takes longer.

A better choice IMO is a half sheet sander. Particularly the Porter
Cable 505...nicest finishing sander I know. The thing that makes it so
good is not the machine itself (which is just fine) but the thick felt
pad on the bottom. That combined with the weight of the sander really
levels stuff out.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Connor Aston wrote:
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a
music centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer
marks are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for
too many lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?

What gives the best finish is a scraper. Fact of life: all sanders use
something with a cutting grit, grit makes marks. How noticeable those
marks are depends on their direction and the size of the grit making
them.

Reciprocating (straight line) sanders should be used to sand in the
direction of the grain; thus marks tend to be hidden by the grain.

Orbital sanders cut in little circles. Like any cutting tool, wood
removed *with* the grain (within the little circles) will be smoother
than that removed cross grain; however, the circles *are* small

Final grade depends on what wood and what you intend to do with it (type
of finish). Personally, I rarely use anything above 240 on anything
other than a surface finish itself.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"connor aston" wrote in message
newsp.s2yaljlkyacudf@dellman...
Do that little sander work on on a large flat surface?


Yes it does.

I have been using my Performax sander for over 10 years now and am
still learning about it. The main cause of the linear scratch marks
seems to be the old problem of not getting out all of the sanding marks
from the previous grit before moving up to the next grit. You can sand
to 220 grit, and have a very nice surface that requires only minimal
hand sanding. If you don't want to go that high, use the good old card
scraper. You can follow that with 220. It is a lot less work to scrape
a 150 or 180 grit surface than it is a 120 grit surface.
When running any boards through the sander, I always finish with at
least 2 passes on each side before lowering the sander again. I always
rotate the board to compensate for the sander not being parallel to the
bed, no matter how close I think it may set up. Also watch out for the
edges of the boards. They are very sharp and will cut you as you run
your hand up and down the board to feel how smooth it is.
robo hippy

"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s2xdu2i8qkab0d@vigor13...
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?


Hand scraper. For Oak it works great.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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I just finished a 2' x 5' oak tabletop, made from 4 6" slabs glued up. After
planing, I sanded it by hand with 320, following the grain. It was like
glass when I was done. For something that small, do it by hand. Can't beat
it.


--
Bob

Travel and Astronomy Photos
http://www3.sympatico.ca/bomo




"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s2xdu2i8qkab0d@vigor13...
I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?




--
http://www.connoraston.com

bob wrote:

I just finished a 2' x 5' oak tabletop, made from 4 6" slabs glued up. After
planing, I sanded it by hand with 320, following the grain. It was like
glass when I was done. For something that small, do it by hand. Can't beat
it.


It couldn't have been "like glass" unless you filled the pores. g did
you?

Dave