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Default Suitable wood

Folks,

I am pretty clueless in this area, and this is likely going to be an
easy question.....

I have a question regarding which wood to select. I have a bedframe
that broke. There is a peice of wood that needs replacing. Time to
get out the saw, drill, Gorilla glue and have some fun. The peice of
wood is only about 1" x 3" x 4" and is load bearing.

I tried hemlock (on that advice of a sales 'droid at home depot), but
it splits every time I sink a wood screw into it.

So can someone suggest a good solid peice of commercially availble wood
that can take a handful of wood screws through it, and is very strong.

BTW. This peice of wood is not really visible so looks is not
critical.


Thanks in advance,

Gord

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Charles Self
 
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wrote in message
ups.com...
Folks,

I am pretty clueless in this area, and this is likely going to be an
easy question.....

I have a question regarding which wood to select. I have a bedframe
that broke. There is a peice of wood that needs replacing. Time to
get out the saw, drill, Gorilla glue and have some fun. The peice of
wood is only about 1" x 3" x 4" and is load bearing.

I tried hemlock (on that advice of a sales 'droid at home depot), but
it splits every time I sink a wood screw into it.

So can someone suggest a good solid peice of commercially availble wood
that can take a handful of wood screws through it, and is very strong.

BTW. This peice of wood is not really visible so looks is not
critical.


What kind of load is it bearing? If hemlock would do when it doesn't split,
it can't be all that much.

Find some white oak, beech, poplar, soft maple, almost any hardwood. Drill
pilot holes nearly the same diameter as the screw shank. Use only TWO screws
for a piece that size. Wax the screw threads (paste floor wax). Store the
Gorilla Glue and grab some basic woodworker's PVA yellow glue.


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Frank Ketchum
 
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wrote in message
ups.com...

I tried hemlock (on that advice of a sales 'droid at home depot), but
it splits every time I sink a wood screw into it.


Predrill before you sink your screw into it. Most any wood that small won't
take many screws without predrilling and not split.

Frank




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Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
configuration on
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/produc...dept=424&grp=1

The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.

I did drill pilot holes, but they were quite small.

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wrote:
Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
configuration on
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/produc...dept=424&grp=1

The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.

I did drill pilot holes, but they were quite small.


Depending on where you are located the strongest wood your local
Home Depot carries should be maple. If it doesn't have maple
it may have Aspen. Usually HD carries 'cabinet woods' in 1x
thicknesses which for hardwoods are supposed to be at least
13/16" thick, but may only be 3/4". Typically locally they
carry red oak, maple and poplar. In some places I've seen
Aspen instead of maple. Whatever the cabinet hardwoods are
that are carried in your area, poplar probably should be your last
choice, but still better than the construction grade softwoods.

--

FF

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George Max
 
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Default Suitable wood

On 1 Dec 2005 17:58:31 -0800, wrote:


wrote:
Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
configuration on
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/produc...dept=424&grp=1

The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.

I did drill pilot holes, but they were quite small.


Depending on where you are located the strongest wood your local
Home Depot carries should be maple. If it doesn't have maple
it may have Aspen. Usually HD carries 'cabinet woods' in 1x
thicknesses which for hardwoods are supposed to be at least
13/16" thick, but may only be 3/4". Typically locally they
carry red oak, maple and poplar. In some places I've seen
Aspen instead of maple. Whatever the cabinet hardwoods are
that are carried in your area, poplar probably should be your last
choice, but still better than the construction grade softwoods.


Holy cow, I'd stay away from Aspen. Maple is much harder and
stronger.
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dadiOH
 
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wrote:
Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
configuration on
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/produc...dept=424&grp=1

The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.


So the 3x4 piece of wood attaches to the post and the hanger plate to
it, right? Does the plate fasten through the wood piece into the post
or just into the block? Here's what I'd do...

Trying to find a 1" thick piece of hardwood at some place like Home
Depot is going to be an exercise in futility most likely. Lumberyard,
yes; HD, no. Trouble is, a lumberyard isn't going to sell you a 3"x4"
piece. I'd go by a local cabinet maker's shop and beg a piece. Maybe
swap a 6 pack. Most any hardwood would do...oak, maple, hickory.

Position the block as it should go and mark lightly around it. Now
remove the block and remove all the finish from the piece to which it
will be attached in the marked area. You can scrape it off with a
chisel or knife. Once it is all off, sand lightly. You can test to see
if it is all off by patting it with a damp paper towel to see if the
wood absorbs water.

Next, drill pilot holes into the block including a countersink for the
head. The holes should be about the same diameter as the thin part of
the screw shank...the part not including the thread. The most screws
and holes you'll need are four - one each about 1" in from each corner.
I'd probably use #8 x 1 3/4 screws. Make sure you aren't putting them
where they will interfere with the plate fasteners.

Next, wipe a bit of glue on both the back of the wood block and on the
post where the block will go. Yellow woodworker's glue would be best
but white glue like Elmer's is entirely satisfactory. Don't use epoxy
or polyurethane.

Position your block on the post and hold or tape in position while you
drill through the pilot holes (same bit) into the post. Drill one hole
first and run in the screw then check the position and drill a second
inserting that screw too. Once two are in, the block won't shift so
finish up any additional screws. Wipe off any glue squeeze out and you
are finished. Let it sit a day before putting any major stress on it.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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Charles Self
 
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"George Max" wrote in message
...
On 1 Dec 2005 17:58:31 -0800, wrote:


wrote:
Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
configuration on
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/produc...dept=424&grp=1

The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.

I did drill pilot holes, but they were quite small.


Depending on where you are located the strongest wood your local
Home Depot carries should be maple. If it doesn't have maple
it may have Aspen. Usually HD carries 'cabinet woods' in 1x
thicknesses which for hardwoods are supposed to be at least
13/16" thick, but may only be 3/4". Typically locally they
carry red oak, maple and poplar. In some places I've seen
Aspen instead of maple. Whatever the cabinet hardwoods are
that are carried in your area, poplar probably should be your last
choice, but still better than the construction grade softwoods.


Holy cow, I'd stay away from Aspen. Maple is much harder and
stronger.


From what I understand, this thing is more of a spacer block than a shovel
handle type of deal. Dunno about aspen, which, of course, is 'real' poplar.
My experience is with tulip poplar. Us East Coast types, ya know?


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George Max wrote:
On 1 Dec 2005 17:58:31 -0800, wrote:


wrote:
Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
configuration on
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/produc...dept=424&grp=1

The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.

I did drill pilot holes, but they were quite small.


Depending on where you are located the strongest wood your local
Home Depot carries should be maple. If it doesn't have maple
it may have Aspen. Usually HD carries 'cabinet woods' in 1x
thicknesses which for hardwoods are supposed to be at least
13/16" thick, but may only be 3/4". Typically locally they
carry red oak, maple and poplar. In some places I've seen
Aspen instead of maple. Whatever the cabinet hardwoods are
that are carried in your area, poplar probably should be your last
choice, but still better than the construction grade softwoods.


Holy cow, I'd stay away from Aspen. Maple is much harder and
stronger.


Yes, Maple woudl be my first choice. I think aspen is harder and
stronger than poplar though there are a lot of different aspens and
the wood from poplar _trees_ is also sold as 'aspen'. The wood
sold as 'poplar' is from the American tulip tree which is not even in
the same genus as poplar.

The only oak I have seen at HD is red oak which splits very easily.
Since he is having trouble with splitting, I'd suggest he avoid red oak
though I'd still recoomend it over poplar.

It's all good wood.

--

FF

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I went wth whte oak, and proper wood glue.
I have added a small peice on the side to increase the support.
I will add the spacer tommorow after the glue sets on the side support.

Thanks for the help, everyone.

I think the biggest problem was not drilling large enough pilot holes.
I wll only use a couple of screws. Hopefully it will all work out.....

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So, um, ...

My wife looked at the bed with out the footboard (which was sitting
elsewhere, while the glue dried), and decided the room looks better
with out it......

Really.

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