The stock insert that comes with the Jet CS (CTS?) is metal and has a
wide opening capable of handling a dado stack. Today I took it out to
make some zero clearance inserts out of 1/2" finnply. A couple of
comments and questions.

First, the factory insert doesn't exactly fit snugly into the opening.
It's a little too short and narrow, although a couple of little nipples
on one side sort of guide it into place I guess. I ended up just
template routing it as it was, but I plan to experiment more in the
near future. What I'm thinking is that I'll flatten the nipples using
some abrasive paper on a surfacing plate, and I'll take off the seam as
well (all the way around). At that point I'll add a couple layers of
celophane tape around the edge to make it just slightly too large, and
template rout it again. Now I'll have an insert just barely oversized.
This I'll take to the surfacing plate to get it just right, and I'll
keep this for my new "template". (I'll probably make up a few spare
inserts at that time too).

I've noticed too that the inserts don't seem to want to sit flat on the
supports either. To level the one I made today I used ground down
screws countersunk into the insert itself. This seemed to work pretty
well, but I thinking that next time I'll fix the problem itself, which
appears to be supports which aren't coplanar and/or on a parellel plane
to the TS surface. With screws as leveling feet it feels like the back
of the insert can easily dip. Maybe I'm just being anal.

IAE, what I might do is file/permanently shim the inserts such that
they allow for an insert of 31/64" to sit flush with the surface of the
table. That way I need not worry about leveling screws or rabbeting
the edges in the future.

JP
*************
No tolerance.

"Jay Pique" wrote in news:1127785521.837111.161650
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

The stock insert that comes with the Jet CS (CTS?) is metal and has a
wide opening capable of handling a dado stack. Today I took it out to
make some zero clearance inserts out of 1/2" finnply. A couple of
comments and questions.

You can fuss with this all you want, but it won't want to stay fixed.
Sawdust tends to get blown up underneath, and the throat plate will wedge
itself where it wants to go. Pull up the plate, and blow or brush out the
buildup periodicly.

Your stock plate is capable of handling a dado stack? Strange. Delta
sends a 'blank' plate, in addition to the stock one. Or at least they did
with my saw. I use the 1/2" Finnply shop built ones for dados, too.

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Jay Pique" wrote in news:1127785521.837111.161650
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

The stock insert that comes with the Jet CS (CTS?) is metal and has a
wide opening capable of handling a dado stack. Today I took it out to
make some zero clearance inserts out of 1/2" finnply. A couple of
comments and questions.

You can fuss with this all you want, but it won't want to stay fixed.
Sawdust tends to get blown up underneath, and the throat plate will wedge
itself where it wants to go. Pull up the plate, and blow or brush out the
buildup periodicly.

Your stock plate is capable of handling a dado stack? Strange. Delta
sends a 'blank' plate, in addition to the stock one. Or at least they did
with my saw. I use the 1/2" Finnply shop built ones for dados, too.

The stock plate on my old Jet CS was wide but it was NOT for a dado
stack--they sell one specifically for the dado sets. Same deal with my Jet
Cabinet saw.

John

Patriarch wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote in news:1127785521.837111.161650
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

The stock insert that comes with the Jet CS (CTS?) is metal and has a
wide opening capable of handling a dado stack. Today I took it out to
make some zero clearance inserts out of 1/2" finnply. A couple of
comments and questions.

You can fuss with this all you want, but it won't want to stay fixed.
Sawdust tends to get blown up underneath, and the throat plate will wedge
itself where it wants to go. Pull up the plate, and blow or brush out the
buildup periodicly.

Your stock plate is capable of handling a dado stack? Strange. Delta
sends a 'blank' plate, in addition to the stock one. Or at least they did
with my saw. I use the 1/2" Finnply shop built ones for dados, too.

The metal one that comes with the saw has an opening of over 1/2". I'm
not in the shop, but it's definitely not "zero clearance" by any
stretch of the imagination.

The more I think about it, the more I'm entertaining the idea of
tapping some holes in the support brackets themselves and putting
little padded leveling feet in them.

JP

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
The metal one that comes with the saw has an opening of over 1/2". I'm
not in the shop, but it's definitely not "zero clearance" by any
stretch of the imagination.

Not for dado, but for tilting the blade. Once you make the zci, don't try to
tilt the blade with it in place.


The more I think about it, the more I'm entertaining the idea of
tapping some holes in the support brackets themselves and putting
little padded leveling feet in them.

That would work. I just use screws in the insert so I can fine tune each one
if needed. I also have a screw in one end where the tab is to prevent it
from lifting. While you are at it, make a half dozen so you have them for
different blades, dado stacks, and a spare. I used 1/2" mdf and made a half
dozen for about two bucks.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
The metal one that comes with the saw has an opening of over 1/2".

That's so the blade can tilt.

Jay Pique wrote:


The more I think about it, the more I'm entertaining the idea of
tapping some holes in the support brackets themselves and putting
little padded leveling feet in them.

Why not replicate the aftermarket (and some OEM) inserts?

Just drill an appropriately sized hole in the insert over each "support
ear" and insert some Allen head set screws. Screws are cheap, work well
to level the insert, just a hair undersized on the holes and they're
self-threading. A dollar or two will buy all you need for your ZCI's.
Remove them before tossing a worn out insert and put them in its
replacement.

On 26 Sep 2005 18:45:21 -0700, "Jay Pique"
wrote:

The stock insert that comes with the Jet CS (CTS?) is metal and has a
wide opening capable of handling a dado stack. Today I took it out to
make some zero clearance inserts out of 1/2" finnply. A couple of
comments and questions.

First, the factory insert doesn't exactly fit snugly into the opening.
It's a little too short and narrow, although a couple of little nipples
on one side sort of guide it into place I guess. I ended up just
template routing it as it was, but I plan to experiment more in the
near future. What I'm thinking is that I'll flatten the nipples using
some abrasive paper on a surfacing plate, and I'll take off the seam as
well (all the way around). At that point I'll add a couple layers of
celophane tape around the edge to make it just slightly too large, and
template rout it again. Now I'll have an insert just barely oversized.
This I'll take to the surfacing plate to get it just right, and I'll
keep this for my new "template". (I'll probably make up a few spare
inserts at that time too).

I've noticed too that the inserts don't seem to want to sit flat on the
supports either. To level the one I made today I used ground down
screws countersunk into the insert itself. This seemed to work pretty
well, but I thinking that next time I'll fix the problem itself, which
appears to be supports which aren't coplanar and/or on a parellel plane
to the TS surface. With screws as leveling feet it feels like the back
of the insert can easily dip. Maybe I'm just being anal.

IAE, what I might do is file/permanently shim the inserts such that
they allow for an insert of 31/64" to sit flush with the surface of the
table. That way I need not worry about leveling screws or rabbeting
the edges in the future.

JP

pretty much how I do it. I made two master templates. one does the
perimeter, the other does the clearance for the levelling tabs. my saw
wants an insert slightly less than 1/2".

I shim them to level with masking tape. the tabs aren't at a common
height (sounds like yours aren't either). at first I thought I'd get
fancy and either mill the tabs to a common height or make a ramped
routing template for the tabs, but the masking tape worked well enough
that I haven't seen the need to do anything more.

CW wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
The metal one that comes with the saw has an opening of over 1/2".

That's so the blade can tilt.

LOL. And here I was thinking I was all smart and stuff!

JP
************
Humbled.

Just drill an appropriately sized hole in the insert over each "support
ear" and insert some Allen head set screws. Screws are cheap, work well
to level the insert, just a hair undersized on the holes and they're
self-threading. A dollar or two will buy all you need for your ZCI's.
Remove them before tossing a worn out insert and put them in its
replacement.


An asssortment of allen headed set screws (about 5 dozen or so) cost
me maybe 10 bucks ...and they work just fine... no need to play around
with the ears that are on the saw......

Most of my cuts with the blade tilted are naturally 45 degree
cuts...and since my Cabinet saw is right tilt (by choice...so lets not
go thru that discussion again...) I do not bother with a zero
clearance insert as the good side of my cuts are facing up...all the
tearout is on the hidden inside edge ....if there is any tearout...

Bob G..