this is in Portland oregon.
well I have one but Bill Pentz has a new version for me so I can sell
my old one and upgrade to the new. but I don't have the skill time or
want to work with sheet metal. I guess all of the parts are cut out so
they just have to be worked and soldered together.
this is what he told me about it I rolled all for you, but you will
still have to do forming and soldering. You need to find someone with
a beading machine who can roll a 7/8” ninety degree tab on the bottom
of the upper outer cylinder, and roll a 3/8” tab on the top of the
cone to mate and then fold over the precut tabs. Make sure you read my
building instructions and get some good soldering flux that will work
with galvanized metal. Solder should be 50% lead as well. Most of the
instructions are on my web pages, but key is cutting an 18” top ring
right on and using it to hold all round while you solder in the
cyclone inlet and then again with the ring moved near the cone to
solder the cone and top and keep all round. I drilled 8 equally spaced
holes around the outside top to mount that wooden ring in mine. Works
fine with no caulk because I make all tight to the same ring. The
cyclone outlet tube works best when made to taper from a 8 ½” to 9”
cylinder at the top. The extra room lets the air ramp fit loosely
which is fine as there is no pressure or material close to the center
to worry about. I just soldered the air ramp to the top of the inlet,
then used a squeeze clamp to pull it to the bottom and only soldered
on the side toward the center. That gives the dust a place to escape
instead of building up.



In rolling the cone I dropped it and hammered all out flat. You might
want to do a little touchup as I had folks waiting for me and did not
do as good of a job as I would have liked.


Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes