What should I use to apply polyurethane to some oak hollow core doors?

The original doors in the house were sprayed with lacquer. I talked to
the painter who did them, and he isn't interested in spraying just five
doors. He recommended water-borne poly as an alternative.

The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.

Brian Elfert

The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.

Poly can be sprayed, foam brushed, and you can even get wipe-on poly u...
It's a personal preference really. I mostly foam brush, but ensure a nice
flat surface by sanding to begin with for best results with foam brushing
and apply a couple of coats with a light sanding in between.


--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
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http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
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"Brian Elfert" wrote in message
...
What should I use to apply polyurethane to some oak hollow core doors?

The original doors in the house were sprayed with lacquer. I talked to
the painter who did them, and he isn't interested in spraying just five
doors. He recommended water-borne poly as an alternative.

The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.

Brian Elfert

How about a real paintbrush?

"Brian Elfert" wrote in message

The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.

Brian Elfert

For the best finish, you just cant beat a quality brush.

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:


The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.

For the best finish, you just cant beat a quality brush.

What is the best way to clean a real brush after using it with waterborne
poly?

Brian Elfert

Warm water. I use a bit of detergent and rinse, rinse, rinse. I seldom
get WB on a brush, but when I do, I don't let it dry. It's tough to get
dried WB out.

Dave

Brian Elfert wrote:

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:



The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.


For the best finish, you just cant beat a quality brush.


What is the best way to clean a real brush after using it with waterborne
poly?

Brian Elfert

Brian Elfert wrote:

What is the best way to clean a real brush after using it with
waterborne poly?

Water works

--
dadiOH
____________________________

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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Brian Elfert" wrote in message

The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I
have no idea if those are best or not.

Brian Elfert

For the best finish, you just cant beat a quality brush.

With the surface (of door) flat.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Brian Elfert wrote:
"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:


The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I
have no
idea if those are best or not.

For the best finish, you just cant beat a quality brush.

What is the best way to clean a real brush after using it with
waterborne
poly?


Soap and water work fine for me.

On interior doors, brushing the first coat, lightly sanding it
and then wiping with a rag dampened with the finish for two or
three other coats seemes to do a good job.

--

FF

Preconditioning brushes with the proper solvent prior to use makes
them stay limber instead of stiffening as the finish dries near the
ferrule. and MUCH easier to clean. Big slab like a door would be
ideal for pads and small tray for finish.

On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:38:03 -0000, Brian Elfert
wrote:

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:


The last time I used poly, I used disposable foam brushes, but I have no
idea if those are best or not.

For the best finish, you just cant beat a quality brush.

What is the best way to clean a real brush after using it with waterborne
poly?

Brian Elfert

much snippage
This is how I laid down a lot of poly with a minimum of effort. It
worked for me anyway.

During construction of our home last year I Minwax stained and
polyurethaned approx 150 lineal feet of 6x12 beams, 250 lineal feet of
6x6 beams and at least a gazillion lineal feet of 1x4 and 1x6 trim
(baseboard, door frame and windows) all in white pine.

I rolled every inch using smooth 4" and 6" rollers and then back
brushed using a bristle brush to smooth and remove bubble craters. 1
coat of stain, 2 coats of satin (sanding between coats) and a final
coat of of semi-gloss.

All the pine beams and trim combined with white oak floors really looks
nice and homey with a "log cabin" feel.

regards;
tlc...