anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

In article ,
Electric Comet wrote:

anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

No, I prefer the full access that an end-mount gives to a buffing
wheel. Too many things you can't get into on a mandrel/long-shaft mount.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 4:29:51 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

Why not just turn one? I love turning knitting needles, all 14" of them. To do that, I turn a mandrel to hold the stock as I feed it through. You could do something similar, but run a bolt through the mandrel to hold your buff on.

On Fri, 22 Jul 2016 22:57:28 -0400
Ecnerwal wrote:

No, I prefer the full access that an end-mount gives to a buffing
wheel. Too many things you can't get into on a mandrel/long-shaft
mount.


you make a good point

On Sat, 23 Jul 2016 06:35:33 -0700 (PDT)
"Dr. Deb" wrote:

Why not just turn one? I love turning knitting needles, all 14" of
them. To do that, I turn a mandrel to hold the stock as I feed it
through. You could do something similar, but run a bolt through the
mandrel to hold your buff on.


i may try this

what wood do you like for knitting needles

On Friday, 22 July 2016 22:29:51 UTC+1, Electric Comet wrote:
anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

You might find using a reverse thread worm with a straight shank gripped in a chuck is your safest way of using a buffing wheel/brush or polishing mop.. a mandrel will flex slightly when pressure is put on it making it untrue for any future work and a morse taper has the likelihood of working free and damaging your work.

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 01:42:49 -0700 (PDT)
S Who wrote:

on it making it untrue for any future work and a morse taper has the
likelihood of working free and damaging your work.

how can a mt work free when the tailstock is secured with the mandrel
between tailstock and headstock

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 4:29:51 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

Two things:

I was reading some of the comments on your mandrel requirements, exactly what are you trying to do with them/it?

As for the wood for the knitting needles, I have used African Blackwood, Ash, Jatoba and some others. Basically, any hardwood with a straight grain will work. There are two requirements for turning knitting needles:

You need a set of mandrels:

One fitted to the stock you will be using for the knitting needle. This one goes in the head stock and is a tight fit, as all Morse Tapers should be, but cut like a collet to squeeze the stock so you can just bump the end of the stock to move it through the collet.

The other mandrel needs to be fitted to the Morse Taper on your tailstock but have the center drilled out just over the size of the needle you are turning. This mandrel keeps the piece from whipping around.

The other thing you will need is a micrometer, or a fixed gauge. DO NOT try to use calipers, they simply will not remain true- regardless of how tightly you lock them down.

Position the tailstock about six inches, or so, from the headstock and slowly feed your stock through, turning it to the rough size and then sanding to final size, for each section of the needle.

For a 14" needle, you will need a starting piece of stock around 20" long, and 24" would not hurt.

On Fri, 5 Aug 2016 07:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
"Dr. Deb" wrote:

The other thing you will need is a micrometer, or a fixed gauge. DO

the diameter of the needle determines the size of the stitch
or is that crochet or maybe both


NOT try to use calipers, they simply will not remain true- regardless
of how tightly you lock them down.

have an 100 plus year old set of calipers that will not move but like
the idea for a micrometer if the needles are to match and for selling

For a 14" needle, you will need a starting piece of stock around 20"
long, and 24" would not hurt.

is the length a personal preference or is it for performance reasons

On Friday, August 5, 2016 at 12:44:01 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 5 Aug 2016 07:35:25 -0700 (PDT)


The other thing you will need is a micrometer, or a fixed gauge. DO

the diameter of the needle determines the size of the stitch
or is that crochet or maybe both

What I do is find a set of needles that is the size desired and just mike that set. BTW, speaking of crochet needles, avoid the kit PennState has. There is no way anyone can use that (while nice looking) bulbous handle while trying to make their stitches.




NOT try to use calipers, they simply will not remain true- regardless
of how tightly you lock them down.

have an 100 plus year old set of calipers that will not move but like
the idea for a micrometer if the needles are to match and for selling

The nice thing about the mike is that the measuring surface is larger than most calipers.

For a 14" needle, you will need a starting piece of stock around 20"
long, and 24" would not hurt.

is the length a personal preference or is it for performance reasons

The length seems to be rather standardized, but since you are the "creator" you can make them any length the user desires.

On Sat, 6 Aug 2016 07:08:09 -0700 (PDT)
"Dr. Deb" wrote:

What I do is find a set of needles that is the size desired and just
mike that set. BTW, speaking of crochet needles, avoid the kit
PennState has. There is no way anyone can use that (while nice
looking) bulbous handle while trying to make their stitches.

so far have avoided kits only because i force myself to keep things
simple

try to make do with what i have

intellectually it is more fun and enjoyable


The nice thing about the mike is that the measuring surface is larger
than most calipers.

good point i might look for a used one

love those old instruments and believe it or not they do spark my
imagination from time to time when i consider what was accomplished
previously

they are my shop talisman

The length seems to be rather standardized, but since you are the
"creator" you can make them any length the user desires.

ok
personal preference it sounds like

Not only that off the main drive spindle but have used a flex shaft
coming off and used off to the side.

I also cut my own through spindle bolt that comes to a nut in the
morse 2 then having a threaded amount and using two more nuts and
washers I've mounted face plates and work.

One just has to remember - speed kills. A 8" disk has a very high
surface speed when the spindle it cranking on high speed.

The forces can really control you. Be careful before, during and after.

Martin

On 7/22/2016 4:26 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 4:29:51 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
anyone used a mandrel on their lathe

the kind with a taper that goes into tailstock and you can mount a buffing
wheel or cbn wheel

saw a combo but it is way too much and if there was a stand alone mandrel
that was 30 or so that would be a sensible addition

My mike happens to be one my dad used at an aircraft plant in WWII, about the time I was born. So, yeah, a shop talisman. :-)