First the story:

I was in a used tool store yesterday and the owner was pricing a bunch of
recent acquisitions. On the table was a bundle of Robert Sorby lathe
tools -- 10 in total, all with ash handles and maroon script Robert Sorby
logo. None had been used much, 3 still had the original factory grind, and
there was a Texturing and Spiraling Tool with an indexing tool rest
platform, a texture wheel, and 3 spiraling wheel cutters. All of this in
the plastic display packaging, never been so much as unpacked from what I
could tell. I asked the owner what he would sell the bundle for and he said
$125. I almost broke my arm reaching for my credit card. I looked up the
spiraling tool on the Internet, and it alone was priced at $131 with the
four wheels. There was also a roughing gouge, 2 bowl gouges, 2 spindle
gouges, 2 scrapers, a parting tool, and a skew chisel.

Now my question:

Has anyone ever used the Texture and Spiraling Tool? I am curious if it is
as easy to use as the instructions indicate? The packaged instructions are
minimal, but I printed off some more complete instructions from the Sorby
website.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

Yep. It's a nifty tool. Some things take a little practice to get a good,
even effect but it's not bad at all. You need to adjust not only the tool
wheels/cutters but also lathe speed, contact angle, and speed sweeping
across the work with the tool. Works on endgrain and sidegrain. The only
problem is not wanting to use it on everything. Remember, "restraint" and
less is more. Never could get a good spiral out of it though. Didn't work
on it too hard on that one either.

Have fun,

- Andrew




Now my question:

Has anyone ever used the Texture and Spiraling Tool? I am curious if it
is
as easy to use as the instructions indicate? The packaged instructions
are
minimal, but I printed off some more complete instructions from the Sorby
website.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

Hello Ken,

I've made several posts on this tool and other Robert Sorby tools on this
newsgroup over the last several years. There is a lot of information to be
gathered by going to DejaNews.com and chosing "Power Search", enter Robert Sorby
as topic, rec.crafts.woodturning as the newsgroup, and Fred Holder as the
author. I picked up one of my old posts on this newsgroup on the texturing and
spiralling tool and post it here again:

The Sorby Spiral Cutting Tool was facinating to watch, so much so that I had to
have one. Personally, I didn't think the texturing part of the tool would
interest me at all; however, I found it can provide a texture much like sand
blasting that is very attractive. You still have to have the part you are
texturing smooth, but not highly polished. So far, I've textured several pieces
with very satisfactory results. Sorby says the tool is only limited by your
imagination, I'm sort of short on this item, but it's fun to use and it does a
real fine job of texturing.

The Spiralling setup is even more fasinating. You push the tool in straight
until the wheel spins, then tilt it down until the tool starts to cut. You then
move it slowly along in the direction of spiral until you reach the end of your
area to be spiraled. At this point, you can check for depth. If you want to go
deeper, come back to the beginning and gently push the tool in horizontally
until you feel it grab into the grooves, then tip it down to cut. You can move
it back and forth along the spiralled area to deepen the cut, but move it
slowly. The lathe should run less than 500 rpm according to Sorby, but I've been
cutting spirals on bottle stoppers at top speed on the RPML-300 (about 2400
rpm). I think it does work a bit better at the slower rpm's but the tool seems
to be speed independent. You can incidentally texture with the spiralling
cutters also.

I honestly don't know how the tool works, but it does. When cutting spirals, the
cutter is near horizontal, when texturing, its near vertical. The instructions
say that if it is horizontal, it will cut a series of beads. I simply haven't
tried that so far, I've been having too much fun making spirals and texturing
surfaces. I haven't tried spiralling the outside of a bowl surface, but that is
in the planning for the future.

As far as sharpening goes, lay the wheel on the grindstone at the proper angle
and let it spin. Its sharp in a jiffy. Or you can hone it with a diamond hone. I
haven't tried, but you might be able to spin the wheel on a piece of rotating
wood while holding on the diamond hone.

This is about the most versitile tool that I've purchased so far in my turning
experience. I sometimes think that I'm a turning tool collector more than a
turner, because a lot of the tools I buy don't get used on a regular basis. I
believe this tool will get regular useage, however.

When I ask Sorby if the tool would work inside, because it is so near to cutting
threads, they said no, but they're working on it. If this tool could be made to
work on the inside of an area and you had the right cutter, it would cut
excellent threads. A real extension of the thread chaser to be used by everyone.

Hope this helps you people who have been eyeing this tool and didn't know
whether to purchase one or not. I was in that boat until I saw the tool
demonstrated at the Sorby demonstration in Seattle, I was so
impressed with the demonstration that I devoted a page to that demonstration in
More Woodturning.

Incidentally, I have no ties to Robert Sorby, other than I've personally been
using their tools for about 10 years and am rather fond of their tools.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

In article k.net, Ken Vaughn
says...

First the story:

I was in a used tool store yesterday and the owner was pricing a bunch of
recent acquisitions. On the table was a bundle of Robert Sorby lathe
tools -- 10 in total, all with ash handles and maroon script Robert Sorby
logo. None had been used much, 3 still had the original factory grind, and
there was a Texturing and Spiraling Tool with an indexing tool rest
platform, a texture wheel, and 3 spiraling wheel cutters. All of this in
the plastic display packaging, never been so much as unpacked from what I
could tell. I asked the owner what he would sell the bundle for and he said
$125. I almost broke my arm reaching for my credit card. I looked up the
spiraling tool on the Internet, and it alone was priced at $131 with the
four wheels. There was also a roughing gouge, 2 bowl gouges, 2 spindle
gouges, 2 scrapers, a parting tool, and a skew chisel.

Now my question:

Has anyone ever used the Texture and Spiraling Tool? I am curious if it is
as easy to use as the instructions indicate? The packaged instructions are
minimal, but I printed off some more complete instructions from the Sorby
website.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

Ken Vaughn wrote:


Has anyone ever used the Texture and Spiraling Tool? I am curious if it is
as easy to use as the instructions indicate? The packaged instructions are
minimal, but I printed off some more complete instructions from the Sorby
website.

I've used the Serious texture tool which is about the same.
I was able to cut some nice spirals, but not without some tearout.
Looking at Sorby's instructions, I think I had the wheel upside-down. I
had the wheel's bevel facing down, with the wheel at about 45 degrees.
Instructions aren't very clear either from Sorby or Serious Tools, but
thinking a little more about it, the wheels might give better results
with the bevel upwards. The teeth are cut at 90 degrees to the cutter
wheel faces, so it kinda makes sense.
I'll try it tomorrow.
Would like to hear other opinions/experiences on that.


Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/
member, webguy Coulee Region Woodturners of SW Wisconsin
http://www.crwoodturner.com/


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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Thanks for the repost, Fred. Your suggestion on checking the archives is a
good one -- guess I got carried away with my good fortune.

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

"Fred Holder" wrote in message
...
Hello Ken,

I've made several posts on this tool and other Robert Sorby tools on this
newsgroup over the last several years. There is a lot of information to be
gathered by going to DejaNews.com and chosing "Power Search", enter Robert
Sorby
as topic, rec.crafts.woodturning as the newsgroup, and Fred Holder as the
author. I picked up one of my old posts on this newsgroup on the texturing
and
spiralling tool and post it here again:

The Sorby Spiral Cutting Tool was facinating to watch, so much so that I
had to
have one. Personally, I didn't think the texturing part of the tool would
interest me at all; however, I found it can provide a texture much like
sand
blasting that is very attractive. You still have to have the part you are
texturing smooth, but not highly polished. So far, I've textured several
pieces
with very satisfactory results. Sorby says the tool is only limited by
your
imagination, I'm sort of short on this item, but it's fun to use and it
does a
real fine job of texturing.

The Spiralling setup is even more fasinating. You push the tool in
straight
until the wheel spins, then tilt it down until the tool starts to cut. You
then
move it slowly along in the direction of spiral until you reach the end of
your
area to be spiraled. At this point, you can check for depth. If you want
to go
deeper, come back to the beginning and gently push the tool in
horizontally
until you feel it grab into the grooves, then tip it down to cut. You can
move
it back and forth along the spiralled area to deepen the cut, but move it
slowly. The lathe should run less than 500 rpm according to Sorby, but
I've been
cutting spirals on bottle stoppers at top speed on the RPML-300 (about
2400
rpm). I think it does work a bit better at the slower rpm's but the tool
seems
to be speed independent. You can incidentally texture with the spiralling
cutters also.

I honestly don't know how the tool works, but it does. When cutting
spirals, the
cutter is near horizontal, when texturing, its near vertical. The
instructions
say that if it is horizontal, it will cut a series of beads. I simply
haven't
tried that so far, I've been having too much fun making spirals and
texturing
surfaces. I haven't tried spiralling the outside of a bowl surface, but
that is
in the planning for the future.

As far as sharpening goes, lay the wheel on the grindstone at the proper
angle
and let it spin. Its sharp in a jiffy. Or you can hone it with a diamond
hone. I
haven't tried, but you might be able to spin the wheel on a piece of
rotating
wood while holding on the diamond hone.

This is about the most versitile tool that I've purchased so far in my
turning
experience. I sometimes think that I'm a turning tool collector more than
a
turner, because a lot of the tools I buy don't get used on a regular
basis. I
believe this tool will get regular useage, however.

When I ask Sorby if the tool would work inside, because it is so near to
cutting
threads, they said no, but they're working on it. If this tool could be
made to
work on the inside of an area and you had the right cutter, it would cut
excellent threads. A real extension of the thread chaser to be used by
everyone.

Hope this helps you people who have been eyeing this tool and didn't know
whether to purchase one or not. I was in that boat until I saw the tool
demonstrated at the Sorby demonstration in Seattle, I was so
impressed with the demonstration that I devoted a page to that
demonstration in
More Woodturning.

Incidentally, I have no ties to Robert Sorby, other than I've personally
been
using their tools for about 10 years and am rather fond of their tools.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

In article k.net, Ken
Vaughn
says...

First the story:

I was in a used tool store yesterday and the owner was pricing a bunch of
recent acquisitions. On the table was a bundle of Robert Sorby lathe
tools -- 10 in total, all with ash handles and maroon script Robert Sorby
logo. None had been used much, 3 still had the original factory grind,
and
there was a Texturing and Spiraling Tool with an indexing tool rest
platform, a texture wheel, and 3 spiraling wheel cutters. All of this
in
the plastic display packaging, never been so much as unpacked from what I
could tell. I asked the owner what he would sell the bundle for and he
said
$125. I almost broke my arm reaching for my credit card. I looked up
the
spiraling tool on the Internet, and it alone was priced at $131 with the
four wheels. There was also a roughing gouge, 2 bowl gouges, 2 spindle
gouges, 2 scrapers, a parting tool, and a skew chisel.

Now my question:

Has anyone ever used the Texture and Spiraling Tool? I am curious if it
is
as easy to use as the instructions indicate? The packaged instructions
are
minimal, but I printed off some more complete instructions from the Sorby
website.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

I am turning a hummingbirg feeder and am wondering what a good finish would
be for it. This is from a piece of found wood. It looks like mesquite.

I've only been addicted to the lathe since January so I have much to learn.
Lesson 1 the scew chisil is my friend. I can do so many things with it I am
starting to think it is one of the most useful tools I have found yet.

--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


Delete an r to reply

I am turning a hummingbirg feeder and am wondering what a good finish
would
be for it. This is from a piece of found wood. It looks like mesquite.


In decreasing levels of protection (but not necessarily looks or ease of
use)...

1) Epoxy. If you can get a good-looking finish from it.
2) Spar Urethane or other "outdoor urethane" / "Marine Finish".
3) Catalyzed or Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer.
4) "Normal" Lacquer
5) Polyurethane
6) Varnish


It doesn't hurt to put a drying/curing oil (pure tung, boiled linseed,
walnut) underneath any of these. Just make sure it's completely dry or else
it might affect the covering finish depending on what you use for that.


I've only been addicted to the lathe since January so I have much to
learn.
Lesson 1 the scew chisil is my friend. I can do so many things with it I
am
starting to think it is one of the most useful tools I have found yet.


Absolutely! If you can't do it with a skew, it probably doesn't need to be
done. g

- Andrew

For something with good drainage, leave as is. Looks more "natural" and
will last for years.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
I am turning a hummingbirg feeder and am wondering what a good finish
would
be for it. This is from a piece of found wood. It looks like mesquite.

After looking at it in natural light this looks like walnut, not mesquite. A
little more of a rare find in this part of the world. The hummingbird feeder
is for my mother who is going to want a mirror finish on the wood. she hates
the look of weathered wood. Back when my late father was ranching I can
remember her asking why he didn't paint the cedar fenceposts or something so
they wouldn't look so tacky.

I also fixed the typos in the header. I've got to learn not to type after a
visit to the pain management clinic. them drugs do things to your brain. too
bad they don't do as much for your spine.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


delete an r to reply
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
For something with good drainage, leave as is. Looks more "natural" and
will last for years.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr."

Sort of leaves you with the marine epoxy, poly choices, which will,
guaranteed, look horrible every two years.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
After looking at it in natural light this looks like walnut, not mesquite.
A
little more of a rare find in this part of the world. The hummingbird
feeder
is for my mother who is going to want a mirror finish on the wood. she
hates
the look of weathered wood. Back when my late father was ranching I can
remember her asking why he didn't paint the cedar fenceposts or something
so
they wouldn't look so tacky.

I also fixed the typos in the header. I've got to learn not to type after
a
visit to the pain management clinic. them drugs do things to your brain.
too
bad they don't do as much for your spine.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


delete an r to reply
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
For something with good drainage, leave as is. Looks more "natural" and
will last for years.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr."

Crud. What about those bartop finishes?


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


Delete an r to reply


"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Sort of leaves you with the marine epoxy, poly choices, which will,
guaranteed, look horrible every two years.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
After looking at it in natural light this looks like walnut, not
mesquite.
A
little more of a rare find in this part of the world. The hummingbird
feeder
is for my mother who is going to want a mirror finish on the wood. she
hates
the look of weathered wood. Back when my late father was ranching I can
remember her asking why he didn't paint the cedar fenceposts or
something
so
they wouldn't look so tacky.

I also fixed the typos in the header. I've got to learn not to type
after
a
visit to the pain management clinic. them drugs do things to your brain.
too
bad they don't do as much for your spine.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


delete an r to reply
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
For something with good drainage, leave as is. Looks more "natural"
and
will last for years.

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr."

Some things look good when left unfinished and allowed to weather (crack,
grey, darken, mottled, mildewed, mossy) naturally but it really depends on
the specie of wood, where it's going to be displayed and just what the
person likes to look at. Many of my garden-series turnings are left
unfinished. They are intended to get that look and gain the properties of
the surrounding environment. Some people, though, just don't like it.
That's fine too. My dad had a friend that was in the military that told him
for years that "if you can't move it ... paint it!" g

Outdoor things like your hummingbird feeder 1) Won't sell well if just left
"natural"; 2) Don't hold up well over a period of time without some kind of
protection and 3) Just don't have that "look" of a pretty-thing which is
what that kind of project is intended to be.

With proper and common-sense care (a wipe-down every month or so), your
mothers' birdfeeder will look good AND be protected for many years. Made my
own mother a birdbath 5 years ago and finished it with Spar Urethane. She
takes it in during the winters and just wipes it down at that time. Still
has a shine and looks great. Made bunches of other outdoor "pretties" to
sell over the years and the ones in this area that I see regularly still
look great (although I can certainly tell how I've progressed as a turner by
just driving around!).

- Andrew



"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
After looking at it in natural light this looks like walnut, not mesquite.
A
little more of a rare find in this part of the world. The hummingbird
feeder
is for my mother who is going to want a mirror finish on the wood. she
hates
the look of weathered wood. Back when my late father was ranching I can
remember her asking why he didn't paint the cedar fenceposts or something
so
they wouldn't look so tacky.

I also fixed the typos in the header. I've got to learn not to type after
a
visit to the pain management clinic. them drugs do things to your brain.
too
bad they don't do as much for your spine.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276

Well its off to woodcraft I go. I am going to try some Spar Urethane. I
thing my mother can give it a wipe now and then and I can get it off the
lathe and go to the next piece of wood. My chisels are getting cold.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


delete an r to reply
"AHilton" wrote in message
...
Some things look good when left unfinished and allowed to weather (crack,
grey, darken, mottled, mildewed, mossy) naturally but it really depends on
the specie of wood, where it's going to be displayed and just what the
person likes to look at. Many of my garden-series turnings are left
unfinished. They are intended to get that look and gain the properties of
the surrounding environment. Some people, though, just don't like it.
That's fine too. My dad had a friend that was in the military that told
him
for years that "if you can't move it ... paint it!" g

Outdoor things like your hummingbird feeder 1) Won't sell well if just
left
"natural"; 2) Don't hold up well over a period of time without some kind
of
protection and 3) Just don't have that "look" of a pretty-thing which is
what that kind of project is intended to be.

With proper and common-sense care (a wipe-down every month or so), your
mothers' birdfeeder will look good AND be protected for many years. Made
my
own mother a birdbath 5 years ago and finished it with Spar Urethane. She
takes it in during the winters and just wipes it down at that time. Still
has a shine and looks great. Made bunches of other outdoor "pretties" to
sell over the years and the ones in this area that I see regularly still
look great (although I can certainly tell how I've progressed as a turner
by
just driving around!).

- Andrew



"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
After looking at it in natural light this looks like walnut, not
mesquite.
A
little more of a rare find in this part of the world. The hummingbird
feeder
is for my mother who is going to want a mirror finish on the wood. she
hates
the look of weathered wood. Back when my late father was ranching I can
remember her asking why he didn't paint the cedar fenceposts or
something
so
they wouldn't look so tacky.

I also fixed the typos in the header. I've got to learn not to type
after
a
visit to the pain management clinic. them drugs do things to your brain.
too
bad they don't do as much for your spine.


--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276

Does ANYTHING get cold in Texas? g

- Andrew


"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
Well its off to woodcraft I go. I am going to try some Spar Urethane. I
thing my mother can give it a wipe now and then and I can get it off the
lathe and go to the next piece of wood. My chisels are getting cold.

That's why event the shop is under AC. It does get down in the 20s sometimes
in the winter here. Of course up in the panhandle it snows about 40 inches
in the winter

--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276


delete an r to reply


"AHilton" wrote in message
...
Does ANYTHING get cold in Texas? g

- Andrew


"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message
...
Well its off to woodcraft I go. I am going to try some Spar Urethane. I
thing my mother can give it a wipe now and then and I can get it off the
lathe and go to the next piece of wood. My chisels are getting cold.

"AHilton" wrote in message



In decreasing levels of protection (but not necessarily looks or ease of
use)...

1) Epoxy. If you can get a good-looking finish from it.
2) Spar Urethane or other "outdoor urethane" / "Marine Finish".
3) Catalyzed or Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer.
4) "Normal" Lacquer
5) Polyurethane
6) Varnish

I'd tend to think that a long-oil marine varnish would be #3. I really
don't know much about lacquers, but I'm unaware of any particular UV
resistance they might possess. Or did the slash (/) indicate a separation
between urethane varnish and long-oil "Marine" types?

Max

"George" george@least wrote in message

Sort of leaves you with the marine epoxy, poly choices, which will,
guaranteed, look horrible every two years.

Au contraire. Simply sand lightly with 220 grit every spring and apply a
refresher coat of varnish or urethane, whichever. Will look great forever.
Also gives Mr. Ewing an excuse to visit Mom.

This applies to an original coating of epoxy, as well. In fact, exposed to
heavy UV epoxy probably will dull as fast as unrefreshed varnish will peel.

Max

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message

Crud. What about those bartop finishes?

They are epoxies or two-part linear urethanes. They will dull in time if
exposed to UV. Everything will, for that matter, including human skin.
Don't ask . . .

Max

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message

Well its off to woodcraft I go. I am going to try some Spar Urethane. I
thing my mother can give it a wipe now and then

Visit Mom each spring and sand the finish lightly with 220 or coarse
Scotchbrite and apply a fresh coating of whichever marine urethane you
choose. It will look good indefinitely.

Max

"Dennis W. Ewing Sr." wrote in message

It does get down in the 20s sometimes
in the winter here. Of course up in the panhandle it snows about 40 inches
in the winter

Damn. Another myth shot to hell.

Max

I was tailoring my advice to him for his particular project (birdfeeder) as
I try to do with everything. The list below would be quite different if I
were talking about a wood floor of a house, for example. A good
polyurethane would be at the top of the list in that case. Far more wear
resistant in that situation and that makes a huge difference there.

Anyway, yes, I was classifying the Spar Urethane and the Marine Finish close
together but not as the same thing. There's really not much difference *in
this application* between the two and, depending on where you live and shop,
they equate the two as the same thing.

As mentioned in a different thread, the lacquers do possess some UV
protection depending on brand, type, etc. But UV protection is only part of
the level of protection I was trying to categorize. Wear, moisture,
flexibility, and temperature effects were also some of the factors. Like I
said in there, I wasn't taking into account looks or ease of
use/application. g


- Andrew



In decreasing levels of protection (but not necessarily looks or ease of
use)...

1) Epoxy. If you can get a good-looking finish from it.
2) Spar Urethane or other "outdoor urethane" / "Marine Finish".
3) Catalyzed or Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer.
4) "Normal" Lacquer
5) Polyurethane
6) Varnish

I'd tend to think that a long-oil marine varnish would be #3. I really
don't know much about lacquers, but I'm unaware of any particular UV
resistance they might possess. Or did the slash (/) indicate a separation
between urethane varnish and long-oil "Marine" types?

Max

How contraire? Seems confirmation.

"Maxprop" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"George" george@least wrote in message

Sort of leaves you with the marine epoxy, poly choices, which will,
guaranteed, look horrible every two years.

Au contraire. Simply sand lightly with 220 grit every spring and apply a
refresher coat of varnish or urethane, whichever. Will look great
forever.
Also gives Mr. Ewing an excuse to visit Mom.

This applies to an original coating of epoxy, as well. In fact, exposed
to
heavy UV epoxy probably will dull as fast as unrefreshed varnish will
peel.

Max

Nice score - let me be the first to say - you sucketh!!


"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message
news
First the story:

I was in a used tool store yesterday and the owner was pricing a bunch of
recent acquisitions. On the table was a bundle of Robert Sorby lathe
tools -- 10 in total, all with ash handles and maroon script Robert Sorby
logo. None had been used much, 3 still had the original factory grind,
and
there was a Texturing and Spiraling Tool with an indexing tool rest
platform, a texture wheel, and 3 spiraling wheel cutters. All of this in
the plastic display packaging, never been so much as unpacked from what I
could tell. I asked the owner what he would sell the bundle for and he
said
$125. I almost broke my arm reaching for my credit card. I looked up the
spiraling tool on the Internet, and it alone was priced at $131 with the
four wheels. There was also a roughing gouge, 2 bowl gouges, 2 spindle
gouges, 2 scrapers, a parting tool, and a skew chisel.

Now my question:

Has anyone ever used the Texture and Spiraling Tool? I am curious if it
is
as easy to use as the instructions indicate? The packaged instructions
are
minimal, but I printed off some more complete instructions from the Sorby
website.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

"George" george@least wrote in message

How contraire? Seems confirmation.

Guess I was assuming that most folks prefer to maintain exterior woodwork as
opposed to allowing it to reduce to lignified junk. My mistake.

Max

"Maxprop" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"George" george@least wrote in message

Sort of leaves you with the marine epoxy, poly choices, which will,
guaranteed, look horrible every two years.

Au contraire. Simply sand lightly with 220 grit every spring and apply
a
refresher coat of varnish or urethane, whichever. Will look great
forever.
Also gives Mr. Ewing an excuse to visit Mom.

This applies to an original coating of epoxy, as well. In fact, exposed
to
heavy UV epoxy probably will dull as fast as unrefreshed varnish will
peel.

Max