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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Had to work, but SWMBO recorded all but the first few minutes of Norm Abram
venturing into bowl turning Saturday. It was a repeat, I have to believe, as he was using what looked to be a 46-700 Delta. Now I know that a lot of people, perhaps most, don't turn as I do, but I found myself talking to the tube as he stepped up to the spinning blank, placing his body in the throw zone. Then when he turned his gouge (yes, a bowl gouge - Packard WW logo) almost nose up and began to round the blank that way, I had to close my eyes. Does anyone really do things this way? Have to believe Norm got some sort of instruction prior to the episode, so someone must, but why? I'm a coward, so I never put my body into the throw zone, rather I work from the tailstock end. Tried the other way and didn't like the odd dirt, water, and bark that could come off and hit me, much less the hidden crack that might release a chunk in search of my chin. I also begin my cuts at the base and orient the gouge so the paring cut is being taken across the blank from bottom to top, rather than turn the nose up where it might tear huge chunks out of the end grain. With the paring cut there's no direction difference felt, because I'm cutting face grain entirely, really rather than running the long grain and digging end. It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
George,
Sorry, but I'm unable to picture the techniques in my mind when you discuss how the gouge is used. I've been sort of "lurking" in this group a while. I'm self-taught; I've read a bunch of books on turning, but never been mentored or even seen a video. I'm trying as best I can to learn good practices. My approach with the gouge depends on whether I'm making a cove or a bead. For a cove, I usually rest the the gouge on the piece, flat, not cutting, and slowly back the gouge until it just begins to shave, then roll the gouge into the bead, cutting with the side cutting edge of the gouge. For a steep cove, I rotate the gouge 90 degrees before cutting, so the gouge is resting on its edge. The gouge is then lowered delicately into the cove, rotating as it goes, again cutting with the off-center cutting edge of the gouge. If you could clarify your techniques, I'd very much appreciate it, so I could experiment. Many thanks. -- Phil "George" wrote in message ... Had to work, but SWMBO recorded all but the first few minutes of Norm Abram venturing into bowl turning Saturday. It was a repeat, I have to believe, as he was using what looked to be a 46-700 Delta. Now I know that a lot of people, perhaps most, don't turn as I do, but I found myself talking to the tube as he stepped up to the spinning blank, placing his body in the throw zone. Then when he turned his gouge (yes, a bowl gouge - Packard WW logo) almost nose up and began to round the blank that way, I had to close my eyes. Does anyone really do things this way? Have to believe Norm got some sort of instruction prior to the episode, so someone must, but why? I'm a coward, so I never put my body into the throw zone, rather I work from the tailstock end. Tried the other way and didn't like the odd dirt, water, and bark that could come off and hit me, much less the hidden crack that might release a chunk in search of my chin. I also begin my cuts at the base and orient the gouge so the paring cut is being taken across the blank from bottom to top, rather than turn the nose up where it might tear huge chunks out of the end grain. With the paring cut there's no direction difference felt, because I'm cutting face grain entirely, really rather than running the long grain and digging end. It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 11:36:00 GMT, "George" wrote:
It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! Everyone does it their own way. There is no absolute right or wrong way. Personally, I'm always in the "throw zone"...sometimes inches from the wood to do detail work. Turning is inherently dangerous. Can't be helped. The only true safe way to turn is to NOT turn. Peter Teubel Milford, MA http://www.revolutionary-turners.com |
#4
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Sounds like you're talking spindle. I was speaking of bowl. I like to cut
across and down rather than try to fight with the alternating end and long grain. Lot less likely to catch, gouge, or otherwise rip a bit of punky wood out of a spalted piece that way. Your technique is bit different than I teach for spindles. I like the gouge rolled up near its edge (near your 90 degrees), center of gouge slightly above center of piece, toolrest well below center. I nose the gouge down and toward the center of the cove until I catch the shaving, roll to center of same, repeat in opposite roll from other side. For bead, same technique, but more down than roll. Truth, I like my beading tool, or a Bedan, or a 1/4 parting tool over a gouge for that. Easier to maintain the shaving a consistent thickness. Self taught isn't like the old saw about representing yourself in court. You don't have a fool for a teacher. You might have a fool for a pupil if you don't ask about when you have a recurring problem, though. "Phil Anselm" wrote in message ... George, Sorry, but I'm unable to picture the techniques in my mind when you discuss how the gouge is used. I've been sort of "lurking" in this group a while. I'm self-taught; I've read a bunch of books on turning, but never been mentored or even seen a video. I'm trying as best I can to learn good practices. My approach with the gouge depends on whether I'm making a cove or a bead. For a cove, I usually rest the the gouge on the piece, flat, not cutting, and slowly back the gouge until it just begins to shave, then roll the gouge into the bead, cutting with the side cutting edge of the gouge. For a steep cove, I rotate the gouge 90 degrees before cutting, so the gouge is resting on its edge. The gouge is then lowered delicately into the cove, rotating as it goes, again cutting with the off-center cutting edge of the gouge. If you could clarify your techniques, I'd very much appreciate it, so I could experiment. Many thanks. -- Phil |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Peter Teubel wrote: (clip) Everyone does it their own way. There is no absolute right or wrong way. Personally, I'm always in the "throw zone"...sometimes inches from the wood to do detail work (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^ That's fine for you, Peter, and I'm sure every one of us does things which could be considered unsafe from time to time. But remember, Norm is up there as a teacher/demonstrator/roll model. He always pefaces his demonstrations with a brief lecture on safety, particularly of eye protection. For him to engage in a practice that is less than safe, for the edification of the general public, including beginners, and particularly youngsters, with no evident awareness of the consequences, is worthy of criticism. (That sentence should be rewritten, but I'll just pretend I'm imitating William Buckley.) |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
I am not for nor against Norm... , But I think that he does have a good show
and puts his reputation on the line every week when he putson his show, because it is so easy to sit back and make critcal observatioins of any one doing anything... There will always be someone who disagrees with the doer's approach...... He is doing his best and it was likely only the second bowl he ever turned, the first one was during rehursal..... I wouldn't take his job.... Have fun with it, that is what it is all about.... Good turning to you all..... Ken... -- Ken & Debbie Bullock (Woodturners) Woodturning videos at: http://www.oneofakindwoodturnings.com SKP # 82323 SKP # "George" wrote in message ... Had to work, but SWMBO recorded all but the first few minutes of Norm Abram venturing into bowl turning Saturday. It was a repeat, I have to believe, as he was using what looked to be a 46-700 Delta. Now I know that a lot of people, perhaps most, don't turn as I do, but I found myself talking to the tube as he stepped up to the spinning blank, placing his body in the throw zone. Then when he turned his gouge (yes, a bowl gouge - Packard WW logo) almost nose up and began to round the blank that way, I had to close my eyes. Does anyone really do things this way? Have to believe Norm got some sort of instruction prior to the episode, so someone must, but why? I'm a coward, so I never put my body into the throw zone, rather I work from the tailstock end. Tried the other way and didn't like the odd dirt, water, and bark that could come off and hit me, much less the hidden crack that might release a chunk in search of my chin. I also begin my cuts at the base and orient the gouge so the paring cut is being taken across the blank from bottom to top, rather than turn the nose up where it might tear huge chunks out of the end grain. With the paring cut there's no direction difference felt, because I'm cutting face grain entirely, really rather than running the long grain and digging end. It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:13:58 GMT, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
Peter Teubel wrote: (clip) Everyone does it their own way. There is no absolute right or wrong way. Personally, I'm always in the "throw zone"...sometimes inches from the wood to do detail work (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^ That's fine for you, Peter, and I'm sure every one of us does things which could be considered unsafe from time to time. But remember, Norm is up there as a teacher/demonstrator/roll model. He always pefaces his demonstrations with a brief lecture on safety, particularly of eye protection. For him to engage in a practice that is less than safe, for the edification of the general public, including beginners, and particularly youngsters, with no evident awareness of the consequences, is worthy of criticism. (That sentence should be rewritten, but I'll just pretend I'm imitating William Buckley.) I must disagree with you, Leo. I have that episode on tape and after viewing it I (personally) feel that he was doing nothing grossly "unsafe". Grossly inefficient, yes...but not unsafe. Lots of people turn...AND TEACH...that way. IMO, to be afraid (not just respectful) of the throw zone is to limit one's self from alot of great cutting techniques. In fact, I really don't see how anyone can turn WITHOUT being in the throw zone. Peter Teubel Milford, MA http://www.revolutionary-turners.com |
#8
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Peter wrote responding to Leo: ....snip.... "In fact, I really don't see how anyone can turn WITHOUT being in the throw zone." ************************ After looking through my books, 2 videos and remembering all the demos I saw at shows, I have to agree with Peter here. This thread and the other about "I'm confused" is bordering on saying: "Newbies are stupid and have no common sense, we must treat them like 5 yr. olds." Yes, safety is important. Yes, safety should, must be expressed. Yes, ALL machines are potentially dangerous. Yes, grown men have had "accidents". But to be perfectly "SAFE" the turner should: *wear a shield *wear a respirator *wear ear protection *wear a leather shop apron *wear steal-tipped shoes (all of the above, not one out of the 5) *have an exhaust system on the lathe *never stand in front of the lathe *never use a tool for other than its "name" designates *never try anything that hasn't been approved by "professionals" How many of you have seen even two of these "safety" things used by the demonstrators at the AAW Symposia? Club demos? Yes, we have a responsibility to express potential dangers with various techniques, machines, finishes, tools, etc., but we are dealing with thinking adults, aren't we? Then again, I guess it's the way of the world today, everyone else is responsible for what a man does. I don't think any newbie should be allowed in his shop alone for the first 3 months. I'm beginning to feel I'm not qualified to turn or talk about it. I stand in the wrong place, use the wrong tools for the wrong job, don't wear all the necessary protection all the time, don't tell people who might be allergic to bee stings that I use beeswax on bowls. Sorry about the rant......actually I guess I'm not really sorry if I hit the "send" button, right? Ruth Woodturners Logo My shop and Turnings at http://www.torne-lignum.com |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Thank you Ruth. I was about to lock the door to my shop because I
haven't been following all the "rules" and doing things "right" and was getting scared that the Tool Police might come after me. Beginners should be given all the encouragement and advice possible, but they should also be able to experiment with what they are most comfortable with. What do some of these "experts" say about roughting out a bowl with a chain saw? Ralph |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Peter Teubel wrote: I must disagree with you, Leo. I have that episode on tape and after viewing it I (personally) feel that he was doing nothing grossly "unsafe (clip) In fact, I really don't see how anyone can turn WITHOUT being in the throw zone. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Peter, I have not seen this particular program, so my comments were based only on the earlier posts. After reading yours, however, I have changed my mind. |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Hi George,
I do find myself in the throw zone quite often with many of the items I turn but not too often with bowls. I turn them in a similar way to yours. But woodturning is not about right and wrong but what works for you. If I remember correctly you are one of the people who uses a roughing gouge to remove the wood from the inside of a bowl. While I consider this rather dangerous and opt for the tool designed for this purpose, you find it to be completely safe to do this and encourage others here to do the same. Is either of us right or wrong? No, just opinionated. Did he wear, what I consider the most important piece of woodturning equipment, a face shield? In my opinion anyone who turns without wearing one is just asking for a face alteration. Tony Manella http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/ Lehigh Valley Woodturners http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.org/ "George" wrote in message ... Had to work, but SWMBO recorded all but the first few minutes of Norm Abram venturing into bowl turning Saturday. It was a repeat, I have to believe, as he was using what looked to be a 46-700 Delta. Now I know that a lot of people, perhaps most, don't turn as I do, but I found myself talking to the tube as he stepped up to the spinning blank, placing his body in the throw zone. Then when he turned his gouge (yes, a bowl gouge - Packard WW logo) almost nose up and began to round the blank that way, I had to close my eyes. Does anyone really do things this way? Have to believe Norm got some sort of instruction prior to the episode, so someone must, but why? I'm a coward, so I never put my body into the throw zone, rather I work from the tailstock end. Tried the other way and didn't like the odd dirt, water, and bark that could come off and hit me, much less the hidden crack that might release a chunk in search of my chin. I also begin my cuts at the base and orient the gouge so the paring cut is being taken across the blank from bottom to top, rather than turn the nose up where it might tear huge chunks out of the end grain. With the paring cut there's no direction difference felt, because I'm cutting face grain entirely, really rather than running the long grain and digging end. It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! |
#12
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
I don't see any way to hollow a bowl without being in the "throw zone". Even
with the longest gouges, if you don't stand in front of the bowl, you will certainly have deep and dangerous catches. Leslie Gossett "George" wrote in message ... Had to work, but SWMBO recorded all but the first few minutes of Norm Abram venturing into bowl turning Saturday. It was a repeat, I have to believe, as he was using what looked to be a 46-700 Delta. Now I know that a lot of people, perhaps most, don't turn as I do, but I found myself talking to the tube as he stepped up to the spinning blank, placing his body in the throw zone. Then when he turned his gouge (yes, a bowl gouge - Packard WW logo) almost nose up and began to round the blank that way, I had to close my eyes. Does anyone really do things this way? Have to believe Norm got some sort of instruction prior to the episode, so someone must, but why? I'm a coward, so I never put my body into the throw zone, rather I work from the tailstock end. Tried the other way and didn't like the odd dirt, water, and bark that could come off and hit me, much less the hidden crack that might release a chunk in search of my chin. I also begin my cuts at the base and orient the gouge so the paring cut is being taken across the blank from bottom to top, rather than turn the nose up where it might tear huge chunks out of the end grain. With the paring cut there's no direction difference felt, because I'm cutting face grain entirely, really rather than running the long grain and digging end. It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Something that has not been mentioned is the definition of the "throw zone."
That IMHO could be anywhere in a 180 horizontal and vertical direction on the tailstock side of the headstock. I have had wood come off the lathe in a variety of directions depending on bounce/richochet factors. There could well be a danger standing on the other side of the headstock! In the interest of safety, I suggest that all lathes be equiped with CAM and robotics gear so that the turner need not be in the shop during the dangerous turning operations! Of course, if you'd use LDD . . . ! *G* Leif "George" wrote in message ... Had to work, but SWMBO recorded all but the first few minutes of Norm Abram venturing into bowl turning Saturday. It was a repeat, I have to believe, as he was using what looked to be a 46-700 Delta. Now I know that a lot of people, perhaps most, don't turn as I do, but I found myself talking to the tube as he stepped up to the spinning blank, placing his body in the throw zone. Then when he turned his gouge (yes, a bowl gouge - Packard WW logo) almost nose up and began to round the blank that way, I had to close my eyes. Does anyone really do things this way? Have to believe Norm got some sort of instruction prior to the episode, so someone must, but why? I'm a coward, so I never put my body into the throw zone, rather I work from the tailstock end. Tried the other way and didn't like the odd dirt, water, and bark that could come off and hit me, much less the hidden crack that might release a chunk in search of my chin. I also begin my cuts at the base and orient the gouge so the paring cut is being taken across the blank from bottom to top, rather than turn the nose up where it might tear huge chunks out of the end grain. With the paring cut there's no direction difference felt, because I'm cutting face grain entirely, really rather than running the long grain and digging end. It makes more sense to me to stand clear of the throw zone and pare, rather than cut and tear my way around. Maybe that's why people complain about chucks being weak, needing full body armor to turn, and not using the biggest edge they own to waste away wood - they're cutting like Norm! |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
I have to agree with you on the face shield Tony. I got hit in the face
with a large piece of bark and nearly blacked out some years ago. Fortunately that was all the damage(I have a very thick skull) but that convinced me that I needed some type of defence against wayward flying debri. Best Investment I made. Ralph |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Ruth
"I don't think any newbie should be allowed in his shop alone for the first 3 months." If this statement were true most of the turners I know would be knitting now. Juergen Ruth wrote: Peter wrote responding to Leo: ....snip.... "In fact, I really don't see how anyone can turn WITHOUT being in the throw zone." ************************ After looking through my books, 2 videos and remembering all the demos I saw at shows, I have to agree with Peter here. This thread and the other about "I'm confused" is bordering on saying: "Newbies are stupid and have no common sense, we must treat them like 5 yr. olds." Yes, safety is important. Yes, safety should, must be expressed. Yes, ALL machines are potentially dangerous. Yes, grown men have had "accidents". But to be perfectly "SAFE" the turner should: *wear a shield *wear a respirator *wear ear protection *wear a leather shop apron *wear steal-tipped shoes (all of the above, not one out of the 5) *have an exhaust system on the lathe *never stand in front of the lathe *never use a tool for other than its "name" designates *never try anything that hasn't been approved by "professionals" How many of you have seen even two of these "safety" things used by the demonstrators at the AAW Symposia? Club demos? Yes, we have a responsibility to express potential dangers with various techniques, machines, finishes, tools, etc., but we are dealing with thinking adults, aren't we? Then again, I guess it's the way of the world today, everyone else is responsible for what a man does. I don't think any newbie should be allowed in his shop alone for the first 3 months. I'm beginning to feel I'm not qualified to turn or talk about it. I stand in the wrong place, use the wrong tools for the wrong job, don't wear all the necessary protection all the time, don't tell people who might be allergic to bee stings that I use beeswax on bowls. Sorry about the rant......actually I guess I'm not really sorry if I hit the "send" button, right? Ruth Woodturners Logo My shop and Turnings at http://www.torne-lignum.com |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
I don't see any way to hollow a bowl without being in the "throw zone".
I have read some of this thread, may have missed something, but if you are using a lathe with a swivel head, it is not at all difficult to be out of the "throw zone" (if one assumes that the zone is a line through the vessel and perpendicular to the headstock axis) Kip Powers Rogers, AR |
#18
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Gotta watch out for those darned knitting needles. Might puncture an artery.
ducks out of the way --Jim "Juergen" wrote in message . .. Ruth "I don't think any newbie should be allowed in his shop alone for the first 3 months." If this statement were true most of the turners I know would be knitting now. Juergen |
#19
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Leo,
Did you see Norm's demonstration or are you making an assumption that he was not being safe? Bill ************************************************** ********************* "Leo Lichtman" wrote in : That's fine for you, Peter, and I'm sure every one of us does things which could be considered unsafe from time to time. But remember, Norm is up there as a teacher/demonstrator/roll model. He always pefaces his demonstrations with a brief lecture on safety, particularly of eye protection. For him to engage in a practice that is less than safe, for the edification of the general public, including beginners, and particularly youngsters, with no evident awareness of the consequences, is worthy of criticism. (That sentence should be rewritten, but I'll just pretend I'm imitating William Buckley.) |
#20
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
Bill wrote: Leo, Did you see Norm's demonstration or are you making an assumption that he was not being safe? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bill, I did NOT see the program, and I WAS making an assumption. I responded to Peter Teubel in a subsequent post, pretty much retracting what I said. Sorry if you missed it. |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 07:34:33 -0400 (EDT), (Ruth)
wrote: I don't think any newbie should be allowed in his shop alone for the first 3 months. I've been alone in my shop for the first 2 _years_, come October 1, or thereabouts... -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
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Norm Turned a Bowl Saturday
"Ralph Fedorak" wrote in message news:c7D9b.20486$Cu3.2500@edtnps84... Thank you Ruth. I was about to lock the door to my shop because I haven't been following all the "rules" and doing things "right" and was getting scared that the Tool Police might come after me. Beginners should be given all the encouragement and advice possible, but they should also be able to experiment with what they are most comfortable with. What do some of these "experts" say about roughting out a bowl with a chain saw? Ralph Depends upon whether the lathe is turned on or off while you use the chain saw!!! James Johnson |
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