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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
Robo
You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
"TomNie" wrote in message ... Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? I'd rather cut. Forged gouge, half inch size, rim to button is pretty easy to do, given the amount of bevel available to keep on the work. If you're shear scraper struck, this works. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...hear%20scraper You can "Hunter" it with carbide tooling or use other shapes. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
Thanks, George, that was the brand I was thinking of. They have a more
rounded bit shaped like a "comma" that was what I referred to. I'd like to think that I can fairly well do a smooth continuous cut with my gouges. When it comes finishing time you can see or feel imperfections that a larger contact area avoids. I'm after that waxed feel that is to the hand what a heavily lacquered cherry apple paint job on a car is to the eye. TomNie "George" wrote in message . net... "TomNie" wrote in message ... Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? I'd rather cut. Forged gouge, half inch size, rim to button is pretty easy to do, given the amount of bevel available to keep on the work. If you're shear scraper struck, this works. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...hear%20scraper You can "Hunter" it with carbide tooling or use other shapes. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
My DUMB - Candy Apple
Kept looking at it thinking what's wrong with that? Senility's hell. TomNie "TomNie" wrote in message ... Thanks, George, that was the brand I was thinking of. They have a more rounded bit shaped like a "comma" that was what I referred to. I'd like to think that I can fairly well do a smooth continuous cut with my gouges. When it comes finishing time you can see or feel imperfections that a larger contact area avoids. I'm after that waxed feel that is to the hand what a heavily lacquered cherry apple paint job on a car is to the eye. TomNie "George" wrote in message . net... "TomNie" wrote in message ... Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? I'd rather cut. Forged gouge, half inch size, rim to button is pretty easy to do, given the amount of bevel available to keep on the work. If you're shear scraper struck, this works. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...hear%20scraper You can "Hunter" it with carbide tooling or use other shapes. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
One last thing I should probably add is that this problem started when I
started undercut edge bowls. "TomNie" wrote in message ... Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
Well, a standard scraper will do the same thing. To get the glassy
smooth finsh, the gouge will work better because you are rubbing the wood with the bevel and in effect, burnishing it (at least that is my current theory which I reserve the right to change in the future if I find out it doesn't work like I think it does now). You can get shear and scraping cuts with both gouges and scrapers. If ground on the same wheel, then you should get the same finish. Well, in theory that is. I tried the gouge shear cut with the handle down and the blade up on my bowls a lot, and never got the shiny cut that I would get with the gouge rubbing the bevel. The same on the inside of the bowl. I have a friend who uses a 'whisper cut' with a scraper on the inside of his bowls for the final cut. By whisper, only the tinyest of shavings are taken, the kind that hang in the air like 3 micron dust particles. Well, I started trying it and it worked as long as my clumsy hands didn't get too heavy. I started using the gouge more in a shear angle and got a better cut. It still never looked as shiny as the rubbed bevel cut. Once while spinning a bowl backwards to feel for tearout, I notices very little with a freshly sharpened gouge. I couldn't feel it when turning in the direction the bowl was spinning while turning. I tried the same thing with a shear scraper cut, and got the same thing. I also tried it with a shear gouge cut, and again the same thing. The only real difference that I can find is in whether I am doing more of a roughing cut rather than a whisper cut, and of course having a sharp tool. This cut seems to be able to be used as a push or pull cut regardless of whether you are on the inside or outside of the bowl. For scrapers, I prefer the inside, or rounded off to the left side of the gouge, and a 3/8 thick by 1 1/4 wide (I like big heavy tools). Just roll it onto the side at about 45 degrees, and just barely touch the wood. This is a clean up cut, not a stock removal cut. You need to raise a good burr, and I do this with an 80 grit wheel, and push the scraper into the wheel with some small amount of force, not just kiss the surface. I also use a diamond stone to remove the old burr before putting a new one on. I have tried the burnishers (hand held triangle, and yes, I can push hard enough to raise a burr this way with the triangle burnisher, but not with the round ones) without liking it as much as the burr from the grinder. I currently have some bowls drying that have been totally turned using a scraper (I turn green to final thickness, and let them dry and warp before sanding and finishing). I will sand them out this week, and see if the actual surface is any smoother than the ones I was getting from the gouges. I can get a satisfactory finish cut with a gouge on the outside of the bowl, but the inside is never as good. Some days I do better than other, but the inside always gives me fits. robo hippy On Jan 21, 1:40*pm, "TomNie" wrote: One last thing I should probably add is that this problem started when I started undercut edge bowls. "TomNie" wrote in message ... Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 16:09:50 -0500, "TomNie" wrote:
Tom.. 1. Get better with a scraper.. ;-] Try using a sweeping motion, like an arc... A scraper cuts with the burr from sharpening it, and the burr goes away very fast... Sharpen often.. Play with tool rest height and scraper angle.. I use about a 3 degree angle on my scraper grind, so what works for me is to have the rest adjusted so that the scraper when level is just a hair above center line.. Only practice will determine what works for you.. Get a scraper rest or a rest with a flat top.. When you use the angled top rest that most lathes come with, the scraper is ok when you're dead center, but as you sweep your arc, the scraper tends to tilt a bit to the side when it follows the angled rest top.. My favorite is a big, ugly French curve rest with a flat top... The tool you're looking for is sort of a single purpose tool.. I was thinking of getting one for boxes and things, which IMO it's more suited for than bowls.. I tried this, which is ok for deep work and not bad for side/bottom scraping.. http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...Code=tools-sut It would be a great tool if I didn't already have the Oneway Termite and if it held angle better, but I fixed that.. It hollows well, scrapes some things well and is supposed to be an alternative to a bowl gouge.. I really like the square shaft.. lets you know that your tip orientation is ok.. Downside is the $120 price, but it's a pretty good tool.. Thanks, George, that was the brand I was thinking of. They have a more rounded bit shaped like a "comma" that was what I referred to. I'd like to think that I can fairly well do a smooth continuous cut with my gouges. When it comes finishing time you can see or feel imperfections that a larger contact area avoids. I'm after that waxed feel that is to the hand what a heavily lacquered cherry apple paint job on a car is to the eye. TomNie "George" wrote in message .net... "TomNie" wrote in message ... Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? I'd rather cut. Forged gouge, half inch size, rim to button is pretty easy to do, given the amount of bevel available to keep on the work. If you're shear scraper struck, this works. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...hear%20scraper You can "Hunter" it with carbide tooling or use other shapes. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 16:40:58 -0500, "TomNie" wrote:
One last thing I should probably add is that this problem started when I started undercut edge bowls. Another thing that I bought that Universal tool for.. does it ok, and the head adjusts so you can undercut without standing on your head.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#9
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
Hi Tom, If you haven't already tried it, you might want to take an old
carbon steel forged shallow flute gouge say 3/4 in. that you aren't using and keeping a full rounded fingernail shape, grind a long bevel & sharp edge evenly across the _Flute side. With the tool upside down and both wings flat on the rest and the bevel rubbing, pull it at an angle along the outside of a bowl or spindle. The wings flat on the rest fix and stabilize the shearing angle and the tangent of the two curved surfaces of wood and tool is easy to control. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#11
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
Hi Ralph, Thanks for your suggestion. A big SRG sounds like a good
idea. It should offer a more vertical shearing angle than a spindle gouge. Trouble is those big gouges are hard to find used and new, too expensive to play with. Does Jim use his reverse ground SRG frequently or just showed that the grind and technique does work? I seldom if ever use mine, but I thought Tom might find the method fun and maybe helpful. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
In article ,
(Arch) wrote: Hi Ralph, Thanks for your suggestion. A big SRG sounds like a good idea. It should offer a more vertical shearing angle than a spindle gouge. Trouble is those big gouges are hard to find used and new, too expensive to play with. Does Jim use his reverse ground SRG frequently or just showed that the grind and technique does work? I seldom if ever use mine, but I thought Tom might find the method fun and maybe helpful. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings It was a demo, so how often, I wouldn't know. As for finding one, check out Benjamins' Best http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lx240.html I bought one, but have yet to use it for anything but roughing (my does LARGE work well) -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
#13
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
Some great responses and I appreciate them muchly.
1. Being specific. Sometimes I/we forget how people will hear us and make assumptions. I was sloppy in my question and embarassed at having to add other posts. Specifically this problem arose with two conditions - partially spalted crotch wood (hard then soft spots) and particularly the inside of an undercut rim, soup mug kinda shaped bowl where a gouge stays on its tip instead of its wings and the undercut precludes the gouge for some of the area. Even on the outside I was unable to handle that bouncy surface with a gouge shear cut on the wings. You had to stay away from the bevel and just kiss the surface with the wings as a scraper or use a flat scraper and just barely touch any protrusions. And as has been noted the outside can be handled but the inside requires something special. 2. The shear cut I was referring to is the sort Robo and Steve Russell referred to. That final, evening out, wispy cut. Steve's using a bullnosed scraper angled about 45* which means the left edge is not under the actually cutting point and must be rounded or is likely to catch on the rest as you're using it. Further, I wanted to continue that action up the side and under that rim. What looked like the ideal tool was the Sorby 8803H 28" overall (17" handle) with removable and adjustable bits, particularly the large oval/straight bit that resembles a "comma". My thought was that the rounded shaft with a minimal flat would be very flexible and supportive. The articulating head with the straight portion of the bit could reach under some hollow forms or this bowls undercut. So I bothered you folks to see if what looked "ideal" was reality or what other techniques applied to this particular situation. Thanks TomNie |
#14
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Wed, 23 Jan 2008 11:04:38 -0500, "TomNie" wrote:
Some great responses and I appreciate them muchly. You've obviously got way too much time on your hands, Tom.. lol How's the retirement going? Getting any chances to use the RV? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
To Steve, and others willing to answer,
I am pretty much a self-taught turner who has learned most of how to do things from this newsgroup and several books. I took a look at the two videos regarding shear cutting and have a couple questions and my own attempts to answer them. You show that when shear cutting with a scraper you actually tilt the scraper at a 45 degree angle. Two things came to mind. First, what about the amount of torque that would be applied to the scraper? Wouldn't that require a 'death grip' on the handle? Second was the damage that could be done to the tool rest as the scraper is run across it. Then I thought a bit more about possible answers. Would the amount of torque be rather negligible as the cuts made are very light? Second, would it be correct to assume that the edges on the scraper are rounded so as to lessen any damage that would be done to the tool rest? Thanks in advance. On Jan 22, 1:03 pm, Steve Russell wrote: Hello Tom, Take a look at these two short video clips from my website on shear cutting on the outside and inside of a bowl. The tool I'm using is a bull nose scraper on the inside and a dedicated shear scraper on the exterior. If you have an Irish grind bowl gouge, you could use that to shear scrape on the exterior, but you still need something curved for shear scraping the interior. I'm a big proponent of shear scraping and use it frequently in my studio to reduce the amount of abrasives needed and to refine the shape of the project. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask... Link to videos: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com...ideo-tips.html -- Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry... Steven D. Russell Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio, The Woodlands, Texas Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning Industries |
#16
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
"Kevin" wrote in message ... To Steve, and others willing to answer, I am pretty much a self-taught turner who has learned most of how to do things from this newsgroup and several books. I took a look at the two videos regarding shear cutting and have a couple questions and my own attempts to answer them. You show that when shear cutting with a scraper you actually tilt the scraper at a 45 degree angle. Two things came to mind. First, what about the amount of torque that would be applied to the scraper? Wouldn't that require a 'death grip' on the handle? Second was the damage that could be done to the tool rest as the scraper is run across it. Then I thought a bit more about possible answers. Would the amount of torque be rather negligible as the cuts made are very light? Second, would it be correct to assume that the edges on the scraper are rounded so as to lessen any damage that would be done to the tool rest? Why not shear with benefit of bevel? Makes it almost impossible to dig in, gives a surface that's about 150 by default from a 100 stone, 220 or better if you hone and fuss. It's done, among other ways, like this. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ged-in-Use.jpg Leaving evidence like this. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...e-Shavings.jpg Yes, that is soft, punky wood on the far side and near the bottom, but with a good toolrest to help and a bevel to reference where you're going to where you've been, who worries? |
#17
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:10:54 -0800 (PST), Kevin wrote:
You show that when shear cutting with a scraper you actually tilt the scraper at a 45 degree angle. That sounds weird.. where was the video? I use a scraper pretty much level with center of tipped slightly down, which I think is pretty standard? I've seen some box making videos where the scraper is pointed down quite a bit, the scrapers were VERY thick and the turner (Bonnie) had a lot of experience with her method.. For most of us mere mortals, it sounds not only dangerous, but a good way to mess up a chunk of wood.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 16:42:48 GMT, "George" wrote:
Why not shear with benefit of bevel? Makes it almost impossible to dig in, gives a surface that's about 150 by default from a 100 stone, 220 or better if you hone and fuss. It's done, among other ways, like this. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ged-in-Use.jpg Leaving evidence like this. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...e-Shavings.jpg Yes, that is soft, punky wood on the far side and near the bottom, but with a good toolrest to help and a bevel to reference where you're going to where you've been, who worries? George.. in the 1st picture (forged in use) you're cutting from the outside down towards the button, right? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
"mac davis" wrote in message ... On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 16:42:48 GMT, "George" wrote: Why not shear with benefit of bevel? Makes it almost impossible to dig in, gives a surface that's about 150 by default from a 100 stone, 220 or better if you hone and fuss. It's done, among other ways, like this. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ged-in-Use.jpg Leaving evidence like this. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...e-Shavings.jpg Yes, that is soft, punky wood on the far side and near the bottom, but with a good toolrest to help and a bevel to reference where you're going to where you've been, who worries? George.. in the 1st picture (forged in use) you're cutting from the outside down towards the button, right? Ayup. Down hill, down grain in the case of this piece. If I'm undercutting a rim, I will have to pull a fingernail grind gouge from the bottom of the undercut toward the rim in order to stay down grain. If you look at the shaving, you can see that I have just begun broadening the cut. The twist was tight when I entered at a high angle to the grain, and is now widening as the gouge is rotated to a shear. The heel of the bevel never contacts, just a section parallel to the edge. The support you get keeps you from digging in and helps you get a consistent thickness shaving. |
#20
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 11:04:52 GMT, "George" wrote:
George.. in the 1st picture (forged in use) you're cutting from the outside down towards the button, right? Ayup. Down hill, down grain in the case of this piece. If I'm undercutting a rim, I will have to pull a fingernail grind gouge from the bottom of the undercut toward the rim in order to stay down grain. If you look at the shaving, you can see that I have just begun broadening the cut. The twist was tight when I entered at a high angle to the grain, and is now widening as the gouge is rotated to a shear. The heel of the bevel never contacts, just a section parallel to the edge. The support you get keeps you from digging in and helps you get a consistent thickness shaving. That's why I asked, I was reading the shaving and wanted to make sure that I interpreted it correctly... Damn, I've been reading your stuff too long! rofl mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
In message , Steve Russell
writes Hello Mac, Shear scraping is a very kind and gentle technique and one that produces excellent results, far better than you can get from traditional scraping in many cases. If done correctly, the resulting surface can be equal to 320 grit... Here's a link to the videos: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com...ideo-tips.html If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and all the best to you and yours! Steve liked your clips, though the Fluid Pulsed Drilling Technique for Pen Blanks appears to be a no show -- John |
#22
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 12:44:57 -0600, Steve Russell
wrote: Hello Mac, Shear scraping is a very kind and gentle technique and one that produces excellent results, far better than you can get from traditional scraping in many cases. If done correctly, the resulting surface can be equal to 320 grit... Here's a link to the videos: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com...ideo-tips.html Thanks, Steve.. I'll check 'em out... I hope to hear from Woodcraft this weekend, the Nova XP should be in any day now.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#23
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
In message , Steve Russell
writes Hello John, Thanks for the kind words... I checked the clip and it ran fine for me. What browser are you using? Maybe it's a browser specific kind of thing??? Thanks! Hi Steve running IE7 with latest updates, works ok in Firefox latest though. In IE its a white box. The other three clips on the page work fine in IE. Looked at the source for one that works and the one that doesn't, nothing immediately stands out. I will send a screen shot shortly direct to your e-mail -- John |
#24
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Monday, January 21, 2008 10:08:37 AM UTC-8, TomNie wrote:
Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie I'm trying to get in contact with Reed Gray regarding purchasing one of his robo rests. Where can I find him? |
#25
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
In article ,
wrote: On Monday, January 21, 2008 10:08:37 AM UTC-8, TomNie wrote: Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie I'm trying to get in contact with Reed Gray regarding purchasing one of his robo rests. Where can I find him? FYI, your best bet it to contact him via Sawmill Creek, AAW, find him on YouTube or have someone send you his e-mail (which I will do via e-mail, if yours if valid). I've had one for a couple years and really think it's worth the money -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
#26
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On Sat, 31 May 2014 06:18:24 -0700, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote: In article , wrote: On Monday, January 21, 2008 10:08:37 AM UTC-8, TomNie wrote: Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie I'm trying to get in contact with Reed Gray regarding purchasing one of his robo rests. Where can I find him? FYI, your best bet it to contact him via Sawmill Creek, AAW, find him on YouTube or have someone send you his e-mail (which I will do via e-mail, if yours if valid). I've had one for a couple years and really think it's worth the money Reed is also very active on facebook.... That's been my fastest contact with him... |
#27
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PING Robo Hippy re shear cutting
On 2014-05-31 03:30:47 +0000, said:
On Monday, January 21, 2008 10:08:37 AM UTC-8, TomNie wrote: Robo You answered the Oland Tool post with a shear cut remark. I'm anal about a smooth, flowing finish but a find the scraper is not that easy to just slide through a continuous cut. This could be my inexperience trying to use that way. Further, since it's flat, I find it awkward to bring up enough for a shear cut. So, I'm thinking of a way too expensive tool at Klingspor's that has a removable curving plus flat cutter attached to a stout round bar that has some 1/4" flat on it. Seems this could be maneuvered a lot easier. Your thoughts? Or anybody else's? TomNie I'm trying to get in contact with Reed Gray regarding purchasing one of his robo rests. Where can I find him? Robo doesn't hang around here any more, but it's really not tough http://www.robohippy.net/ I really like my 1st Gen RoboRest, he has done a couple improvments since Ralph |
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