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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Which receptacle?
Hello:
Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with 10' ceilings. Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. Any suggestions appreciated . . . . Steve |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
"Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message news:vj2dg.168059$5Z.7600@dukeread02... Hello: Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with 10' ceilings. Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. Any suggestions appreciated . . . . Steve AFAIK, your Problem is the problem alright. I know some people who only like Twist-Loc style plugs and receptacles so they have no problem cutting whatever came with the tool off and replacing it. Considering the cost of a tool this may not be too bad in relative terms of cost. My General lathe came with the standard 240V 15A plug which looks like a standard plug except that the hot pins are horizontal instead of vertical. For my other tools that I converted to 240V, I had already selected that size since 15A, 240V is plenty for them. My TS is only 2HP so I imagine a 3HP would want at least a 20A receptacle. billh |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
I am not sure about this, not being an electrician, but the two
different styles of plugs represent 20 and 30 amp plugs. I doubt that many of your tools will require 30 amp circuits; my 4.5 hp bandsaw does, but nothing else in the shop does. I have heard that you shouldn't run 20 amp tools on a 30 amp circuit. robo hippy |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
AFAIK ?
Thanks for the reply . . . Steve "billh" wrote in message .. . "Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message news:vj2dg.168059$5Z.7600@dukeread02... Hello: Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with 10' ceilings. Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. Any suggestions appreciated . . . . Steve AFAIK, your Problem is the problem alright. I know some people who only like Twist-Loc style plugs and receptacles so they have no problem cutting whatever came with the tool off and replacing it. Considering the cost of a tool this may not be too bad in relative terms of cost. My General lathe came with the standard 240V 15A plug which looks like a standard plug except that the hot pins are horizontal instead of vertical. For my other tools that I converted to 240V, I had already selected that size since 15A, 240V is plenty for them. My TS is only 2HP so I imagine a 3HP would want at least a 20A receptacle. billh |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
I have heard that you
shouldn't run 20 amp tools on a 30 amp circuit. You have it bass akwards. You shouldn't run a 30 amp tool on a 20 amp circuit. A short in a 20 amp tool will draw well over 30 amps and take the breaker out like it should. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
On Wed, 24 May 2006 14:18:28 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker"
wrote: Standard Disclaimer, I am not an electrican- take any advice offered at your own risk Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. First thought- exactly how big is your equipment? Is 30 amps necessary? I know my table saw (1.5 hp) will pull 20 amps on 110, but only 10 amps on 220. The lathe (1 hp) pulls 15 on 110, 7.5 on 220. I know it's always fun to assume that bigger is better, I'm guilty of it myself most of the time, but it might not be needed. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? When I got my table saw and rewired for 220, I did a lot of staring at the bins of plugs and recepticles at the hardware store asking myself the same question. After consulting the owner's manual from the saw, I went with the one that has two flat (horizontal) prongs and a ground. YMMV, but it seems like a good plug as it's quite a lot smaller than the big dryer plugs, and it is the one I've seen most commonly on construction sites where 220 is used. OTHO, the shop I work at has the plugs that have four blades around the circumference of the plug (one of which has a tab bent at 90 degrees on it) that locks in on the Unisaws. IIRC, these are 220v as well, and they are nice and heavy, though they are awfully bulky and won't come loose if you catch one with your foot. When I looked into those for my contractor's saw, it seemed that it was more money with no performance difference, as the tool didn't require a separate neutral. Obviously, that's going to depend on your tools. What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Sounds smart to me- not only versitile, but those recepticles aren't cheap. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Here's a thought- if you've got machines that *require* 30 amp 200 service, changing the recepticle is bound to be a minor problem compared to simply moving the machine. My solution- in place in my own shop, is to wire each recepticle to it's own breaker to reduce the breaker load and allow me to have an extra layer of insurance when a tool needs maintenance. It's easy for someone to plug something in, less so to find the panel and turn the breaker back on- sort of like an informal home version of lockout/tagout. I wire all the branches with 10 ga. *in case* I need a bigger capacity later, but match the breaker to the tool load. Same goes for the recepticle and plugs. I know the breakers are there to protect the wires, and not necessarily the tools, but by the same token, I know that any tool that keeps tripping a breaker that should be big enough probably needs some attention, and you don't get that warning if you just jack up the load capacity. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. As above, I don't know that you need that, though you may. My vote would be for the recepticles mentioned above (They look like this) _ _ * Or these ones: | _ * They should be fine for most tools in a home shop. Then if you actually need a bigger one later, you can change them out on a case-by-case basis. Hope this helps- I remember a deep sense of dread when researching this the first time around, hence the long post. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle? (a COC's response)
Hi steve , While I respect your right to ask and others to respond, I
don't see how you can tell a helpful valid response from a dangerosly wrong one. That you needed to ask the question makes this probable. At the risk of being misunderstood or appearing to protect vested interests, I suggest that in addition to politics and religion there are other questions that are not appropriate for an unmoderated woodturning forum since the answers cannot be depended upon to be reliable and following questionable advice can be dangerous. Some very competent and some very incompetent, even dangerous suggestions may be offered and you have no way of knowing which is which. The internet including rcw being what it is, IMHO questions related to electrical power hook ups, poisonous chemicals, medical-legal-insurance risks and similar issues should seldom be raised and always carefullly considered before being relied upon on an open woodturning forum in which there are experts, pseudo experts and some who are dangerously ignorant and don't know it. The latter of course, might very well include me and right or wrong, there's no intent to offend anyone. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#8
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Which receptacle? (a COC's response)
What is a COC.
Thanks for your concern. First of all, if you read my post carefully, all I really ask is, "typically" what type of plug seems to be hanging off most of the 220VAC power tools you have bought? I now know that most of the "large" tools "typically" come with a 6-20P plug. Being 2 pole - 3 wire 20 amp rated (small diameter / "closed eyes"). Except for the big Laguna / Mini Max band saws this seems to be the answer I am getting in group & private e-mails . . . While I welcome any and all electrical advice, it is not what my post asked for. As to my electrical knowledge, I have over 20 years in industrial instrumentation - field - design & sales . . . If you are familiar with the Petrochemical industry I'm sure you know they consider "low" power control circuitry anything up to and including 220VAC . . . I have many friends who are electrical P.E's. What I really needed and got was ("typically" what type of plug seems to be hanging off most of the 220VAC power tools you have bought?") If the last paragraph of my post seems to be asking for electrical advice, my apology for poor choice of words . . . . I am simply looking for some of what's available" at a reasonable price which so many in this and the woodworking group seem to be an excellent resource for . . . Again, I really do appreciate your concern . . . I can not tell you how many times I have read electrical advice on here that makes me want to cringe . . .. . And my stupid wording sometimes causes huge "FLAMES" as is. . . But trust me, I'm working with a permit, being inspected and got a second set of eyes on my prints (yes I drew them) from a licensed electrical engineer on the wiring setup in my new shop . . . . Again, thanks . . . . Steve "Arch" wrote in message ... Hi steve , While I respect your right to ask and others to respond, I don't see how you can tell a helpful valid response from a dangerosly wrong one. That you needed to ask the question makes this probable. At the risk of being misunderstood or appearing to protect vested interests, I suggest that in addition to politics and religion there are other questions that are not appropriate for an unmoderated woodturning forum since the answers cannot be depended upon to be reliable and following questionable advice can be dangerous. Some very competent and some very incompetent, even dangerous suggestions may be offered and you have no way of knowing which is which. The internet including rcw being what it is, IMHO questions related to electrical power hook ups, poisonous chemicals, medical-legal-insurance risks and similar issues should seldom be raised and always carefullly considered before being relied upon on an open woodturning forum in which there are experts, pseudo experts and some who are dangerously ignorant and don't know it. The latter of course, might very well include me and right or wrong, there's no intent to offend anyone. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#9
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Which receptacle? (a COC's long response)
Steve, COC is a group of crotchety old coots and my poorly put post more
than lived up to the name for which I apologize. Thanks for understanding my intent and I hope the others who answered your query will also. I have a misguided tendency to post to the general NG which sometimes comes over as critical of an individual. Also, I tend to change my opinions often (see my web site), ex: I've posted electrical advice myself in the past, once having having taught medical electronics & telemetry and started a small R&D company, "Medical Measurements" which is now lost somewhere in Johnson & Johnson. Nobody likes a holier than thou, patronizing post that presumes to know what's best for others. With your background you had good reason to be piqued. Actually I did understand your question and thought it clearly put. I was wrong to impugn your competence by jumping to the wrong conclusion that you were inexperienced else you would have seen for yourself the various kinds of plugs on the machine tools displayed in stores. I should have known that not every place has the stores we have in this area and not everyone has the time to visit them. I was even wrong to assume that you are in the U.S. and not the U.K. where the plugs are different and the standard is 230V, Sincere congratulations on your well thought out new shop. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#10
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Which receptacle? (a COC's long response)
E-mail - YUK . . . No matter how big your smile is when you say something,
it always seems to come out "crappy" . . .LOL I'm talking about mine . . . LOL I sincerely meant "THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONCERN" and only mentioned electrical knowledge to let you know I would not do anything "too stupid" . . . without contacting someone who did this for a living everyday . . . BTW my first machine will be a Jet Mini and if I am lucky maybe some talent from this group will migrate my way so I don't end up with the worlds largest pencil sharpener . . . . Isn't it amazing, with all this technology and we are all happy to be back to "writing letters", they just get there faster . . . .I think I now realize why in years past, written word was so "flowery" . . . it was needed to set the desired tone of the letter . . . Again, thanks & I too will soon be a COC . . . 52 now and counting . . . Steve "Arch" wrote in message ... Steve, COC is a group of crotchety old coots and my poorly put post more than lived up to the name for which I apologize. Thanks for understanding my intent and I hope the others who answered your query will also. I have a misguided tendency to post to the general NG which sometimes comes over as critical of an individual. Also, I tend to change my opinions often (see my web site), ex: I've posted electrical advice myself in the past, once having having taught medical electronics & telemetry and started a small R&D company, "Medical Measurements" which is now lost somewhere in Johnson & Johnson. Nobody likes a holier than thou, patronizing post that presumes to know what's best for others. With your background you had good reason to be piqued. Actually I did understand your question and thought it clearly put. I was wrong to impugn your competence by jumping to the wrong conclusion that you were inexperienced else you would have seen for yourself the various kinds of plugs on the machine tools displayed in stores. I should have known that not every place has the stores we have in this area and not everyone has the time to visit them. I was even wrong to assume that you are in the U.S. and not the U.K. where the plugs are different and the standard is 230V, Sincere congratulations on your well thought out new shop. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
"Harry Pye" wrote in message roups.com... I have heard that you shouldn't run 20 amp tools on a 30 amp circuit. You have it bass akwards. You shouldn't run a 30 amp tool on a 20 amp circuit. A short in a 20 amp tool will draw well over 30 amps and take the breaker out like it should. Which, oddly enough, is the reason they make the plugs different. To prevent you from doing so. Clever folks who wrote the NEC, what? |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle? (a COC's long response)
Well said--Nuff said, Steve, You are going to have fun with the Jet,
just don't plug it into one of your 220s. (won't I ever learn that icons don't neutralize my well meant, but distorted humor. 'G') Anyway, a warm welcome, please share your turning experiences with us and post 'early & often'. Like a cameleon, I'll change colors and suggest a wiring caution to any electrically challenged DIYer that might be reading this: Remember that when 110V power is taken from opposite legs of the panel and distributed to outlets near one another there is 220 volts between the hots. I was appalled to see this in an early day intensive care unit that had several two conductor extension cords running about. To continue giving advice that I advised others not to , I don't know if they are expensive or up to code, but should you consider the adapters used to connect motor homes & travel trailers to the various power outlets at different campsites? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#13
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Which receptacle?
I wired (actually pre-wired) everything in 10gauge wire (at least where I
expected to need 220s). I leave the wires dead (run, but not into the breaker box, and ending in an outlet box with nothing in it). When I finaly manage tog et up the scratch for the tool, I read the owners manual, get the appropriate recptacle and breaker, and install them. I have tools that want 30 amp, 40 amps, and I think even a 20 amp (I might be wrong on that one - this is from memory). The way IO figure it, the guys that design the motors and tools know what they're doing a lot better than I do. I use their specs. --JD |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
"As Far As I Know"
billh "Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message newsY3dg.168066$5Z.2651@dukeread02... AFAIK ? Thanks for the reply . . . Steve "billh" wrote in message .. . "Petrified Woodworker" wrote in message news:vj2dg.168059$5Z.7600@dukeread02... Hello: Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with 10' ceilings. Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. Any suggestions appreciated . . . . Steve AFAIK, your Problem is the problem alright. I know some people who only like Twist-Loc style plugs and receptacles so they have no problem cutting whatever came with the tool off and replacing it. Considering the cost of a tool this may not be too bad in relative terms of cost. My General lathe came with the standard 240V 15A plug which looks like a standard plug except that the hot pins are horizontal instead of vertical. For my other tools that I converted to 240V, I had already selected that size since 15A, 240V is plenty for them. My TS is only 2HP so I imagine a 3HP would want at least a 20A receptacle. billh |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle? (a COC's response)
On Wed, 24 May 2006 21:26:28 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker"
wrote: Again, I really do appreciate your concern . . . I can not tell you how many times I have read electrical advice on here that makes me want to cringe . . . . And my stupid wording sometimes causes huge "FLAMES" as is. . . But trust me, I'm working with a permit, being inspected and got a second set of eyes on my prints (yes I drew them) from a licensed electrical engineer on the wiring setup in my new shop . . . . Again, thanks . . . . Steve Oh man... I'm sure you already have, but disregard my rambling then. I figured you were just one of the many folks who just can't afford an electrician. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
You are making the classic mistake of assuming that the rating of an outlet must IN ALL CASES match the circuit breaker rating. This is true for dedicated circuits, i.e. one breaker feeds one machine (like the example of a dryer or electric stove). However , you can have general purpose 220vac circuits just like the more comon 120vac general (lighting) circuits. In that case, you would use either 15 or 20 Amp receptacles, which are available as duplex type outlets. First, make a list of all the machines that will be wired to run 220v, and estimate RUNNING amperage for each. Most smaller table saws (up to 2+ HP on motor), Band saws, dust collectors, jointers, planers etc will draw less than 20 amps at 220v. (If they will run 120 v with a standard parallel blade plug, the most they will draw at 220v will be about 10 amps!!) Next identify which machines will need to run in combination, i.e. T/S and dust collector, etc but not T/S and Lathe!! This should indicate which machines must or should be on separate circuits. Finally identify machines which will need a dedicated circuit, i.e. a 3+ HP T/S or a large compressor Now run several circuits at 220vac, 20 Amps for the lighter stuff. Just like with 120 vac circuits, you can have more than one outlet per circuit. In this case, the outlet configuration and wire size is what must match the C/B rating, i.e. with a 20a breaker at least 14 awg romex (I'd use 12 awg) and 20 a outlets. The C/B protects the wiring and branch circuit, but not so much the individual device plugged into it. Run several normal 120vac, 20a general circuits for your drills, radios, lamps, bench grinders, etc Run each dedicated circuit for a specific machine. I suspect that most of these machines will be delivered with either a junction box for you to wire to, like a drier or range, or a cord but no plug (you add the plug). In this case, you can standardize on any convenient configuration like a 30 a range or drier type. The C/B and wiring should be sized for the specific machine. For your general 220vac circuits, I would go with 20a outlets as either 15 or 20 amp pluds will fit them Outlets are generally backward compatable, but not forward, so a 15 amp plug will fit a 20 a outlet, but a 20a plug will not fit a 15 a receptacle. If you have other questions, don't hesitate to email me. On Wed, 24 May 2006 14:18:28 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker" wrote: Hello: Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with 10' ceilings. Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. Any suggestions appreciated . . . . Steve |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
[posted and mailed]
Bradford Chaucer wrote in news snip a lot of stuff . The C/B protects the wiring and branch circuit, but not so much the individual device plugged into it. The CB protects the wiring PERIOD or should. |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Which receptacle?
When I built and wired my shop, I put in L6-30 twist lock outlets for
all 240 circuits. These are three conductor, 30 ampere 250 volt NEMA rated outlets, and all of my 220 volt equipment either has a 10 guage cord and plug attached (at least up to the CB/Contactor/Switch on the equipment). Typically, the shop supports two lathes, one cabinet saw, a couple of (glassworking) kilns and a dust collector running on 240 volts. Due to the relatively small area of the shop, things get moved around periodically. A 240 volt bandsaw and a planer are on the wish list when I get some extra cash. If you are worried about protecting the wiring in a given piece of equipment, just make up a couple of adapter cords with a 10 guage cable feeding a "4-plex" box with a lower rated circuit breaker in one half, feeding an appropriate lower rated outlet in the other half. I used a couple of these in my old shop and they worked great when "visiting lathes" needed to be connected without changing their plugs or cords. For a couple of circuits, I had a 20Ampere Circuit Breaker installed in the breaker panel, though "the house wiring" is all 10 guage. Local inspector is happy as long as breaker is 30A or less for 10Ga wire. As others may have mentioned, breaker in the main panel protects the building wiring, not the circuitry/wiring/motor in the machine. The extra cost of replacing the power cord of the machines with 10 guage wire is more than made up by not worrying about whether the cord will heat if the machine tries to draw more current (even briefly) and lowers any voltage drop it would see from a smaller conductor (higher guage number). Some equipment (heavily loaded table saw, for example) also seems to work better with the 10 guage cord than the one that came with it... A couple of my machines have a lower value (15A, 20A) circuit breaker at the input to the machine (before the operator switch/contactor). Having all of the outlets wired the same is great for moving things around, and I've still got several "pigtails" that terminate in a double box containing a lower rated Circuit breaker feeding a different outlet (for example, there is at least one with the more popular 15A 220/240/250 outlet that come with some saws and lathes, so when other lathes are "visiting" or I rent a piece of equipment that needs 240 volts they can be plugged in without having to change the plug or cord. Good Luck! --Rick Petrified Woodworker wrote: Hello: Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with 10' ceilings. Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets: (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers. My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most 220 VAC powered tools ? What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece of equipment. Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match on any new piece of equipment purchased. Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30 AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail. Any suggestions appreciated . . . . Steve |
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