I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

thanks,

bruno.

In article ,
l (Miko the pooch) wrote:

I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

Well, depends on cheap, and may be affected (if you care) by local
codes. Plain old cheap pine boards work well and pass most codes, but
even if you can find em cheap, they cost a bit more than drywall last
time I compared the two. OSB is not loved by most codes, and costs the
earth these days anyway for no obvious reason. If you don't care how the
joints look, you can cut drywall down before moving it. Cementboard
comes in smaller panels (3x5) and takes impacts and water better, but is
more costly per square foot. Pegboard is traditional, though I don't
know how it fares with modern codes. Full-on old-fashioned plaster is
probably cheap if you provide the labor and can stand the mess.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article ,
l (Miko the pooch) wrote:

I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall
though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow
stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

Well, depends on cheap, and may be affected (if you care) by local
codes.

Thus the reason for the drywall. Fire codes. May not affect you unless you
have habitable space down there. Your insurance people may have their, more
stringent standards. Most will allow panels over drywall protecting the
interior from wires. I would use outdoor Romex in a basement just because.
A workshop needs good sturdy wainscoting to dent, with continuous pegboard
above. Light-colored tempered Masonite.

In article , "George" George@least
wrote:

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article ,
l (Miko the pooch) wrote:

I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall
though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow
stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

Well, depends on cheap, and may be affected (if you care) by local
codes.

Thus the reason for the drywall. Fire codes. May not affect you unless you
have habitable space down there. Your insurance people may have their, more
stringent standards. Most will allow panels over drywall protecting the
interior from wires. I would use outdoor Romex in a basement just because.
A workshop needs good sturdy wainscoting to dent, with continuous pegboard
above. Light-colored tempered Masonite.


I kinda thought there wasn't anything cheaper then drywall, looks like
I'm not the only one that thinks so

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Not cheap here in Louisiana . . . after Katrina, drywall is at a premium . .
..

Steve

"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article , "George" George@least
wrote:

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article ,
l (Miko the pooch) wrote:

I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need
to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall
though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow
stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work
relatively
well in a basement shop?

Well, depends on cheap, and may be affected (if you care) by local
codes.

Thus the reason for the drywall. Fire codes. May not affect you unless
you
have habitable space down there. Your insurance people may have their,
more
stringent standards. Most will allow panels over drywall protecting the
interior from wires. I would use outdoor Romex in a basement just
because.
A workshop needs good sturdy wainscoting to dent, with continuous
pegboard
above. Light-colored tempered Masonite.


I kinda thought there wasn't anything cheaper then drywall, looks like
I'm not the only one that thinks so

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

In article ,
Ecnerwal writes:
If you don't care how the joints look, you can cut drywall down
before moving it.

I might go this route. I was hoping there was some other cheap
but lightweight material. But being in the basement I am very concerned about
safety. I'll just have to take my time.

bruno.

In article ,
l (Miko the pooch) wrote:
I might go this route. I was hoping there was some other cheap
but lightweight material. But being in the basement I am very concerned about
safety. I'll just have to take my time.

Well, run the cementboard price through your estimate. If it gets wet
(basement flooding, plumbing problem, etc) it laughs it off (using
galvanized deck screws to attach it will help it not show anything). It
takes significantly more impact to damage it. In these ways it's better
than drywall, which somewhat justifies the price, and it's already in
smaller pieces.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On 10 Apr 2006 02:56:24 GMT, l (Miko the pooch) wrote:

I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

thanks,

bruno.

Well, my way is not fireproof like drywall but works for me...

I covered the inside wall of my garage with 1 1/2" thick styrofoam insulating
panels that have a vapor barrier on each side... they're quick, light ( a 4' x
4' weighs about 3 or 4 pounds) and cheap... about $15 each... the 3/4" that my
neighbor used are less than $10 a sheet..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Well, my way is not fireproof like drywall but works for me...

I covered the inside wall of my garage with 1 1/2" thick styrofoam
insulating
panels that have a vapor barrier on each side... they're quick, light ( a
4' x
4' weighs about 3 or 4 pounds) and cheap... about $15 each... the 3/4"
that my
neighbor used are less than $10 a sheet..

Dunno, Mac. Is that stuff certified? Older stuff _had_ to be installed
under drywall because it melted prior to burn. No ceilings!

mac davis wrote:
On 10 Apr 2006 02:56:24 GMT, l (Miko the pooch) wrote:


I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

thanks,

bruno.


Well, my way is not fireproof like drywall but works for me...

I covered the inside wall of my garage with 1 1/2" thick styrofoam insulating
panels that have a vapor barrier on each side... they're quick, light ( a 4' x
4' weighs about 3 or 4 pounds) and cheap... about $15 each... the 3/4" that my
neighbor used are less than $10 a sheet..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Doesn't sound that cheap. I am in the process of converting a garage
into a shop and paid under $10 for 4' x 10' drywall. Admittedly the
drywall is harder to handle but the cost savings---!

I've done a good deal of construction in my day and it almost always
comes back to drywall. It's hard to beat for the price and durability.
It's heavy, but that's it strength. There just isn't anything any
cheaper. I had the same questions when I decided to finish my shop in
the basement and that's what I used. I just did a couple coats of
mud/tape and painted. Not the pretiest, but it works. I didn't have
help moving in the sheetrock so just cut the sheets in half.

The only other thing is thin paneling, but it will cost as much or more
than sheetrock and not be near as durable.

Earl


Miko the pooch wrote:
I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

thanks,

bruno.

In article . com,
wrote:

I had the same questions when I decided to finish my shop in
the basement and that's what I used. I just did a couple coats of
mud/tape and painted. Not the pretiest, but it works.

Late last fall I to needed to make some electric circuit modifications
to my basement turnery and decided the easiest way to go about it was to
rip off the existing drywall. When I replaced it, I decided to skip the
mudding and taping altogether. My reasoning was - not counting my lack
of skill in making the mudded seams look good - that I could easily
replace sheets if any became majorly damaged from a flying bowl or some
such. With the walls painted white, the screw heads and seams are not
obvious or ugly - and it saved a lot of time, dust and aggravation.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article qLs_f.827$B42.679@dukeread05,
"Steve DeMars" wrote:

Not cheap here in Louisiana . . . after Katrina, drywall is at a premium . .
.
Compared to... can you name a wall covering that is cheaper?

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Luan 1/2"



"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article qLs_f.827$B42.679@dukeread05,
"Steve DeMars" wrote:

Not cheap here in Louisiana . . . after Katrina, drywall is at a premium
.. .
.
Compared to... can you name a wall covering that is cheaper?

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 12:01:09 -0400, "George" George@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
Well, my way is not fireproof like drywall but works for me...

I covered the inside wall of my garage with 1 1/2" thick styrofoam
insulating
panels that have a vapor barrier on each side... they're quick, light ( a
4' x
4' weighs about 3 or 4 pounds) and cheap... about $15 each... the 3/4"
that my
neighbor used are less than $10 a sheet..

Dunno, Mac. Is that stuff certified? Older stuff _had_ to be installed
under drywall because it melted prior to burn. No ceilings!

Like I said, it's not "safe", but very effective... in my case, I'll take a
chance on my garage walls as a trade off for fast, easy and insulating...
I also have three 2" thick sheets that are cut to the height of the open garage
door that make an instant "wall" without having to work with the garage door
closed... (14' wide garage door)

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 03:14:14 GMT, Ralph wrote:

mac davis wrote:
On 10 Apr 2006 02:56:24 GMT, l (Miko the pooch) wrote:


I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

thanks,

bruno.


Well, my way is not fireproof like drywall but works for me...

I covered the inside wall of my garage with 1 1/2" thick styrofoam insulating
panels that have a vapor barrier on each side... they're quick, light ( a 4' x
4' weighs about 3 or 4 pounds) and cheap... about $15 each... the 3/4" that my
neighbor used are less than $10 a sheet..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Doesn't sound that cheap. I am in the process of converting a garage
into a shop and paid under $10 for 4' x 10' drywall. Admittedly the
drywall is harder to handle but the cost savings---!

also, there's the insulating factor... and I guess if you wanted to really
nitpick, the cost of the drywall screws, tape and mud.. lol
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Cheaper than drywall? Man, you are cheap! I doubt you will find anything
much cheaper than drywall.

Barry


"Miko the pooch" wrote in message
...
I'd like to move the lathe from the garage to the basement but I need to
finish the walls first. I don't look forward to putting up drywall though.
For one thing it I'd need to bring it down through a fairly narrow
stairway.
Are there other cheap alternatives to drywall that would work relatively
well in a basement shop?

thanks,

bruno.

In article 8xO_f.1071$B42.429@dukeread05,
"Steve DeMars" wrote:

Luan 1/2"

Good for you, but not here though

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Cheaper than drywall? Man, you are cheap! I doubt you will find anything
much cheaper than drywall.

Barry

Stapled up tarpaper...? Makes for one, dark interior, though.

On Thu, 13 Apr 2006 13:29:17 GMT, "Dan Bollinger"
wrote:

Cheaper than drywall? Man, you are cheap! I doubt you will find anything
much cheaper than drywall.

Barry

Stapled up tarpaper...? Makes for one, dark interior, though.

Not nearly as attractive as cherry paneling with high gloss white latex..

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

What's a basement, anyway? Is it like an extended concrete slab to put
the boat on, or the space between the piers to put the freezer for fish
& game or maybe like under a chickee for chickens to scratch?

We social climbing Florida natives believe roll roofing is classier than
tar paper for walls and feel that asphalt shingles are the ultimate in
wall elegance here in redneck valhalla. Whatever happened to cellotex
and other cellulose wall board?

The 'old money' retirees from New England still favor open studs for
their cottage walls, while the noveaus brag about their marble halls.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

For the exterior block or concrete wall, paint works.

On 10 Apr 2006 13:17:59 GMT, l (Miko the pooch)
wrote:

In article ,
Ecnerwal writes:
If you don't care how the joints look, you can cut drywall down
before moving it.

I might go this route. I was hoping there was some other cheap
but lightweight material. But being in the basement I am very concerned about
safety. I'll just have to take my time.

Two suggestions- I don't like either of them, myself, but they may
work for you. First is good ol' wood panelling. It's a little more
costly than drywall, but it bends more to get into tight spaces, and
if that fails, you can cut it on the joint lines and peice it back
together. You spend more on materials, less on time that way.

Second one, which may be contrary to your local codes are those cheap
plastic panels some folks use to line showers. They're generally not
attractive, but they're flexible for moving down the stairs,
waterproof, not much sticks to them, and tend to be a nice bright
white.

Your best bet is still drywall, though.

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 13:30:22 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
l (Miko the pooch) wrote:
I might go this route. I was hoping there was some other cheap
but lightweight material. But being in the basement I am very concerned about
safety. I'll just have to take my time.

Well, run the cementboard price through your estimate. If it gets wet
(basement flooding, plumbing problem, etc) it laughs it off (using
galvanized deck screws to attach it will help it not show anything). It
takes significantly more impact to damage it. In these ways it's better
than drywall, which somewhat justifies the price, and it's already in
smaller pieces.

Ahh- another one. Right next to the cement board, there's some
thinner fiber underlayment stuff that is a whole lot easier to cut,
runs a little more than drywall and comes in 3' x 5' peices. Probably
a better choice for wall covering than the old concrete board.

Second one, which may be contrary to your local codes are those cheap
plastic panels some folks use to line showers.

There are two types of plastic wall panels. Both are code rated, they have a
fire-retardant. One is a white gel-coated fiberglass panel frequently seen on
the interiors of wall-in coolers. Their great advantage is that it is easy to
wipe mold and mildew off of them. Comes only in refrigerator white. 4x8

The second are PVC textured sheets. You see this in hospitals and commercial
buildings. Comes in dozens of colors. 4x8

Now comes the kicker. To meet firecode, both are to be installed over
sheetrock.

Dan

In article ubN%f.894691$x96.132403@attbi_s72,
"Dan Bollinger" wrote:

There are two types of plastic wall panels. Both are code rated, they have a
fire-retardant. One is a white gel-coated fiberglass panel frequently seen
on
the interiors of wall-in coolers. Their great advantage is that it is easy to
wipe mold and mildew off of them. Comes only in refrigerator white. 4x8

The second are PVC textured sheets. You see this in hospitals and commercial
buildings. Comes in dozens of colors. 4x8

Those are good suggestions, Don. Since my turnery is in my basement, I
try to keep it pretty clean with sweeping up daily and brushing or
wiping the walls down pretty frequently. I painted the drywall with a
gloss white latex so it would be more durable to wet wiping. The problem
is developing that the wet-wood-stripe is staining the paint - and that
just don't look right. The plastic overlay panels would solve that
problem and I'd think be pretty durable with the drywall backing it up.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.