I got my first experience with horn today. A friend who makes shepard
crooks had some horn scraps and gave me a box of them. I chucked up a small
piece just to see how it was to work. Not bad. Sort of worked like a tauga
nut although my friend (who works in metal most of the time) said it works
like aluminum. Can't wait to do some actual projects with it.

Brian

Hi Brian

As I don't see a question, and I have never turned horn, I will wait
and hope we are going to hear what project you did with the horn and
how it worked and etc.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Actually I was just messing with a small piece just to see what it was like.
But as I worked with it I decided that it will be the end of a crochet hook
with a bigger handle.

Brian

Hi Brian

Good idea, would look better than those plastic ones, and the stuff
(horn) is pretty tough I'm told.

At the wood show last week, there happened to be a boot, right next to
us, with a couple'a guys that made and sold longbows, and used
laminated wood, also horn and bamboo and other combinations, and
laminated water buffalo horn makes apparently a very tough and strong
longbow.

What all this has to do with wood turning, ??

I never thought to ask if they had, (and I know they did) some cutoffs
so as to give me a chance to try turning some, I guess I was to busy
with our wood turners show, surely will next time I see them.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I finished the hook yesterday. here is a photo. The wood is spalted maple
then the furel on the end and the button on the end of the handle are water
buffalo.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...06-006hook.jpg

Brian

Just be sure to use a respirator when working with bone or horn. The
dust particles can lodge in the lungs causing the same sort of damage
as asbestos.

dcm

I have turned a couple of pens using water buffalo horns. You have to
soak them in water fro 24 hours prior, to avoid splintering the
material. Final products look great but begin to smell a little after
a year of constant use.

On 22 Feb 2006 11:00:00 -0800, "Devon Miller"
wrote:

Just be sure to use a respirator when working with bone or horn. The
dust particles can lodge in the lungs causing the same sort of damage
as asbestos.

dcm

On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 20:22:59 GMT, Serial # 19781010
wrote:


I have turned a couple of pens using water buffalo horns. You have to
soak them in water fro 24 hours prior, to avoid splintering the
material. Final products look great but begin to smell a little after
a year of constant use.

On 22 Feb 2006 11:00:00 -0800, "Devon Miller"
wrote:

Just be sure to use a respirator when working with bone or horn. The
dust particles can lodge in the lungs causing the same sort of damage
as asbestos.

dcm


What is this, the misinformation thread??

You don't soak buffalo horn and it won't give you asbestosis. AAMOF,
soaking horn is one of the better ways to get it to be soft, mushy and
break down. You can turn bone or horn with no more precaution nor
preparation than any other wood. It WON'T give you some bizarre form
of cancer and it won't fall apart if you don't soak it in water. I've
turned, carved and otherwise abused plenty of both of these natural
materials and they're no more toxic than a pork chop, and will outlast
many woods.

Not nearly so dangerous as MISinformation.

--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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now that I have turned several pieces of the buffalo horn I have to say that
it is very nice to work. it turns something like tauga and comes off in
very nice long shavings. it sands easily and when taken to 2000 grit it
takes a rather nice finish.

my farrier who gave me the pieces does heat horn to bend it to shape the
crook and then works it with lots of sanding and polishing and he has also
put it into hot water for an hour or so just to soften it enough to bend
though.

i like the stuff

Brian

Hi Brian

Thanks for the update, I have turned UHMW and Lexan/plexiglas also
nylon and all those give long shavings, it gets stuck around everything
also, but never polished any of that, yes one of those days I will have
to try turning some horn, but first have to get some.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Since the first few I did turn split, the company suggested that I
soak them first and I have had no problems since. if you haven't had
problems; good for you. I am saying what was suggested to me that
worked for me. You have a problem with that, get over it!

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 23:44:20 GMT, (Chuck)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 20:22:59 GMT, Serial # 19781010
wrote:


I have turned a couple of pens using water buffalo horns. You have to
soak them in water fro 24 hours prior, to avoid splintering the
material. Final products look great but begin to smell a little after
a year of constant use.

On 22 Feb 2006 11:00:00 -0800, "Devon Miller"
wrote:

Just be sure to use a respirator when working with bone or horn. The
dust particles can lodge in the lungs causing the same sort of damage
as asbestos.

dcm


What is this, the misinformation thread??

You don't soak buffalo horn and it won't give you asbestosis. AAMOF,
soaking horn is one of the better ways to get it to be soft, mushy and
break down. You can turn bone or horn with no more precaution nor
preparation than any other wood. It WON'T give you some bizarre form
of cancer and it won't fall apart if you don't soak it in water. I've
turned, carved and otherwise abused plenty of both of these natural
materials and they're no more toxic than a pork chop, and will outlast
many woods.

Not nearly so dangerous as MISinformation.

On this day, 2/22/2006 8:28 AM, the esteemed Brian gave forth this bit
of wisdom:
I finished the hook yesterday. here is a photo. The wood is spalted maple
then the furel on the end and the button on the end of the handle are water
buffalo.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...06-006hook.jpg

Brian



Hello,

I have a question. The Mrs. just started doing pyrography/carving. She
bought a small hand grinder from a manufacturer.

When discussing uses with the manufacturer, he said to NEVER grind
spalted maple. He said she could hand carve it, but

grinding is extremely dangerous given what the spalted maple contains.
He said it's not worth the risk even when using

a respirator. Your thoughts?

Steve

Spalted maple has the markings that it does because of a mold that spreads
through the wood as it rots. Over time inhaling the stuff can apparently
cause your lungs to spalt ;-) which I am told may be a bad thing. I have
not heard that you shouldn't grind/sand it even with a respirator though. I
suppose it depends on how much you are doing too.

Brian

"Brian" wrote in message
...
Spalted maple has the markings that it does because of a mold that spreads
through the wood as it rots. Over time inhaling the stuff can apparently
cause your lungs to spalt ;-) which I am told may be a bad thing. I have
not heard that you shouldn't grind/sand it even with a respirator though.
I suppose it depends on how much you are doing too.


The mold which causes spalting eats lignin, others in the wood, cellulose.
Your lungs contain neither.

The mold does create waste products and deliberate toxins to protect its
food from competing bacteria, which do have structures similar to your
cells. Herein the danger. Dosage which is fatal to single-cell organisms
is probably not significant to us, but our own immune system may produce a
significant reaction. Consider antibiotics derived from molds.

The dose is in the dust - deflect or collect it.

On this day, 2/26/2006 2:56 AM,  the esteemed George gave forth this bit of wisdom:

"Brian" wrote in message ... > Spalted maple has the markings that it does because of a mold that spreads > through the wood as it rots. Over time inhaling the stuff can apparently > cause your lungs to spalt ;-) which I am told may be a bad thing. I have > not heard that you shouldn't grind/sand it even with a respirator though. > I suppose it depends on how much you are doing too. > The mold which causes spalting eats lignin, others in the wood, cellulose. Your lungs contain neither. The mold does create waste products and deliberate toxins to protect its food from competing bacteria, which do have structures similar to your cells. Herein the danger. Dosage which is fatal to single-cell organisms is probably not significant to us, but our own immune system may produce a significant reaction. Consider antibiotics derived from molds. The dose is in the dust - deflect or collect it.

Thanks for the replies.

Steve