I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone
have info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any
help would be appreciated, thanks, Geo.

geo wrote:

I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone
have info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any
help would be appreciated, thanks, Geo.

I got one of the first chucks Penn State sold. Heavy as lead, two tommy
bars, but works good. The nice thing about it was it was under $50. If
the newer ones are as serviceable, should be a good deal.


Deb

geo wrote:
I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone
have info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any
help would be appreciated, thanks, Geo.


I got to use one of the Penn State Chucks while doing a demo for our
club. Operated with tommy bars like the original Nova and held
acceptably for hollowing a thin wall bowl about 7 inches in diameter.
A bit inconvenient to manipulate if you are used to a key style, but
likely not bad for the price. Hope this helps.

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

geo wrote:
I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone
have info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any
help would be appreciated, thanks, Geo.


I got to use one of the Penn State Chucks while doing a demo for our
club. Operated with tommy bars like the original Nova and held
acceptably for hollowing a thin wall bowl about 7 inches in diameter.
A bit inconvenient to manipulate if you are used to a key style, but
likely not bad for the price. Hope this helps.

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 16:34:40 +0000, geo wrote:

I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone have
info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any help
would be appreciated, thanks, Geo.

I bought one about a year ago when I first got a lathe. Been using it for
bowls ever since. Intend to buy another in the near future.

Bill

I have used one for a coupe of years it works great little mean to use but
for the money you can't beat it I don't use it for very large bowls and not
at all for tall vases stick with the Oneway but the fack is yo can have 3 or
4 of the penn for the cost of a Oneway or SuperNova and unless you are
planning on some heavy duty turning the Peen works great.

Charlie
"geo" wrote in message
...
I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone have
info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any help would
be appreciated, thanks, Geo.

"W Canaday" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 16:34:40 +0000, geo wrote:

I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone
have
info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any help
would be appreciated, thanks, Geo.

Good luck in getting one. The new (????) Barracuda II has been on back
order for almost a year now. Everytime I have called them about it I get
the same answer, "Any day now." Finally gave up and bought a Nova.
Nic

"wrongbird" wrote in message
...
I have used one for a coupe of years it works great little mean to use but
for the money you can't beat it I don't use it for very large bowls and not
at all for tall vases stick with the Oneway but the fack is yo can have 3
or 4 of the penn for the cost of a Oneway or SuperNova and unless you are
planning on some heavy duty turning the Peen works great.

Therein a consideration. What will it do in the way of jaws and reliability
down the line. If you think you might someday want one of the big names,
get it instead. Big lathes, big chucks can turn small stuff, right? But
small ones don't do large, nor do undersize chucks.

I understand the utility in having three chucks with different jaws, but
I see no advantage in using three 'good enough' chucks for one year each
over using one 'really good' chuck for three years. YMMV.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Well at one time I considered buying one of the Penn State chucks but I
ended up buying the Oneway Talon chuck. (I did not like the tommy bars on
the Penn State)
After using the Talon I would not even consider buying a chuck with the
tommy bars.
As some gun owners say the only way you would get my oneway chuck would be
to pry it out of my dead hands .

Steven Raphael
Ithaca MI
http://www.geocities.com/steven_raph...turnings1.html
"geo" wrote in message
...
I have just seen an ad for the Penn state inds. chuck . Does anyone have
info on these chucks. they are about half price of a nova. any help would
be appreciated, thanks, Geo.

On Sat, 28 Jan 2006 23:47:05 GMT, "Steven Raphael"
wrote:

Well at one time I considered buying one of the Penn State chucks but I
ended up buying the Oneway Talon chuck. (I did not like the tommy bars on
the Penn State)
After using the Talon I would not even consider buying a chuck with the
tommy bars.
As some gun owners say the only way you would get my oneway chuck would be
to pry it out of my dead hands .

Steven Raphael
Ithaca MI
http://www.geocities.com/steven_raph...turnings1.html

got to agree... the Talon is the only chuck I've used, but see no reason to
change.. just bought a 2nd one..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Hi there Mac

I just bought another Oneway chuck too, a Talon this time, I have a
Stronghold already, You know the most important reason for me to buy a
Oneway is, the Patented jaws shape, yes the quality is very good and so
are some other chucks but the jaw shape makes all the difference in
that you can hold wood square or round securely over the whole opening
range of the chucks jaw opening ability
There is no other chuck that has that advantage.
I don't want to admit this but I was at Busy Bee couple of months ago
and against better knowing I picked up one of their low cost (CHEAP)
chucks, something like 50something $$$, what a waste of money, I had
thought that OK maybe I will have to chuck it up in my metal lathe and
fix it up a bit, well it would be easier to machine a new one than to
try fixing that pos, it's even to light to make even a good door stop,
o well, live and learn, could have bought a nice bowl gouge instead
(ouch).

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi there Mac

I just bought another Oneway chuck too, a Talon this time, I have a
Stronghold already, You know the most important reason for me to buy a
Oneway is, the Patented jaws shape, yes the quality is very good and so
are some other chucks but the jaw shape makes all the difference in
that you can hold wood square or round securely over the whole opening
range of the chucks jaw opening ability
There is no other chuck that has that advantage.
I don't want to admit this but I was at Busy Bee couple of months ago
and against better knowing I picked up one of their low cost (CHEAP)
chucks, something like 50something $$$, what a waste of money, I had
thought that OK maybe I will have to chuck it up in my metal lathe and
fix it up a bit, well it would be easier to machine a new one than to
try fixing that pos, it's even to light to make even a good door stop,
o well, live and learn, could have bought a nice bowl gouge instead
(ouch).

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I did it the other way around. I bought a BB cheapie for my CdnTire lathe.
To be honest it worked reasaonably well and I did some good stuff with it.
Bent the tommy bars making sure it was tight though! When I got my General I
bought a Stronghold. What a difference in chucking. I now have both
Strongholds and Talons. I like the small size of the Talon which reduces its
footprint on the bowl bottom. Oneway says 14" dia for Talon but I know
turners who hold larger work than that with it.
billh

On 30 Jan 2006 01:20:08 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi there Mac

I just bought another Oneway chuck too, a Talon this time, I have a
Stronghold already, You know the most important reason for me to buy a
Oneway is, the Patented jaws shape, yes the quality is very good and so
are some other chucks but the jaw shape makes all the difference in
that you can hold wood square or round securely over the whole opening
range of the chucks jaw opening ability
There is no other chuck that has that advantage.
I don't want to admit this but I was at Busy Bee couple of months ago
and against better knowing I picked up one of their low cost (CHEAP)
chucks, something like 50something $$$, what a waste of money, I had
thought that OK maybe I will have to chuck it up in my metal lathe and
fix it up a bit, well it would be easier to machine a new one than to
try fixing that pos, it's even to light to make even a good door stop,
o well, live and learn, could have bought a nice bowl gouge instead
(ouch).

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I really debated this point as well.... do I really Need a chuck that
costs almost as much as my lathe... how bad could one of the cheaper
ones really be ..... Searched the archives ... decided on the
Talon.... very pleased that I did!

Lenny

Hi Lenny

Yes I know, the good chucks are expensive.
I payed more for my Talon with one extra set of jaws than I did for my
Delta midi lathe,that came with a set of small HSS turning tools.

But expensive is all relative, I bought the little lathe and the chuck
and a grinder to take along to my sons place, LOML and I spend 3+ weeks
over at, first my oldest sons and then 2 weeks at my youngest sons
place, normally they all spend the holiday season over at our place,
but with my #1 sons wife expecting their #3 and the 3500KM roundtrip
and dragging all the required along, we thought it be better for us to
go there.

However it could get boring if not able to do any turning at all, so
thats why I got the mini.G really. left the grinder there, for next
time, and he needed one, other son also.

Now the 5 tanks of gas and 2 overnightings to get there and back and a
couple more tanks for the trip to my other one, did cost more than all
of the above, not to mention the gifts etc.

You have to love it, and we do and did.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum26.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 18:25:25 -0500, Lenny wrote:

On 30 Jan 2006 01:20:08 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi there Mac

I just bought another Oneway chuck too, a Talon this time, I have a
Stronghold already, You know the most important reason for me to buy a
Oneway is, the Patented jaws shape, yes the quality is very good and so
are some other chucks but the jaw shape makes all the difference in
that you can hold wood square or round securely over the whole opening
range of the chucks jaw opening ability
There is no other chuck that has that advantage.
I don't want to admit this but I was at Busy Bee couple of months ago
and against better knowing I picked up one of their low cost (CHEAP)
chucks, something like 50something $$$, what a waste of money, I had
thought that OK maybe I will have to chuck it up in my metal lathe and
fix it up a bit, well it would be easier to machine a new one than to
try fixing that pos, it's even to light to make even a good door stop,
o well, live and learn, could have bought a nice bowl gouge instead
(ouch).

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I really debated this point as well.... do I really Need a chuck that
costs almost as much as my lathe... how bad could one of the cheaper
ones really be ..... Searched the archives ... decided on the
Talon.... very pleased that I did!

Lenny

lenny... I debated the same thing.. Jet Mini was a bit over $200... Talon chuck
was about $200 with shipping and extra jaw set...

OTOH, that chuck is now on my $900 14" lathe... does that make it any less
expensive? *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 08:39:08 -0800, mac davis
wrote:


lenny... I debated the same thing.. Jet Mini was a bit over $200... Talon chuck
was about $200 with shipping and extra jaw set...

OTOH, that chuck is now on my $900 14" lathe... does that make it any less
expensive? *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Well, as Leo said "it's all relative"... I know the Talon was a good
fit for my Rockwell 46-525. Part of my initial reasoning was that it
would hold it's value ( meaning I could sell it if it didn't work
out)and could easily be used for a different lathe just by changing
the adapter. Now that I've used it, I can't imagine being without it.

One thing I've noticed over the years is I'm never diasapointed when I
end up spending more than I had intended for a tool, ... Often
disapointed when I try to go cheap.

Hey, I just got the #2 jaws with my Talon, and have heard that the
spigot jaws would be a good choice for a second pair. My question is
which version (standard or smooth) would be better and why?

Also, I have ordered a Milwaukee close quarter drill and plan to get a
sanding accessory for use with it .... any suggestions as to what I
should look for and where?

Lenny

Hi Lenny

My Talon came with the #2 jaws and I bought the regular spigot jaws,
reason is I want the holding power of the regular jaws, if my turning
is too fragile I will hold it some other way, glue it to a waste block,
wrap masking tape around it or some other way, I turned some miniatures
in the last 2 months, some of which have a wall thickness of approx.
0.6 mm/23 thou, no way am I going to hold them in my chuck jaws, smooth
or otherwise.
As for the Milwaukee I have one for a number of years, and use it only
if I can not use my regular drill.
2 reasons for that:
1) I paid about 4X the price I paid for 2 other drills, (1 slow 1
fast) they where on special at HD.
2) The Milwaukee has a history of burning out the rear bearing, then
ceasing and spinning in its plastic seat, ruining the drill.
The drill was never designed to drill for the length of time we sand
and the dust and grit are also not good for its health.
Blasting out the crud with compressed air and/or replacing the bearing
with a sealed bearing is recommended.
I use the regular 1-2-3" velcro sanding holder and paper as I use on my
other drills.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On 31 Jan 2006 18:54:19 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi Lenny

My Talon came with the #2 jaws and I bought the regular spigot jaws,
reason is I want the holding power of the regular jaws, if my turning
is too fragile I will hold it some other way, glue it to a waste block,
wrap masking tape around it or some other way, I turned some miniatures
in the last 2 months, some of which have a wall thickness of approx.
0.6 mm/23 thou, no way am I going to hold them in my chuck jaws, smooth
or otherwise.
As for the Milwaukee I have one for a number of years, and use it only
if I can not use my regular drill.
2 reasons for that:
1) I paid about 4X the price I paid for 2 other drills, (1 slow 1
fast) they where on special at HD.
2) The Milwaukee has a history of burning out the rear bearing, then
ceasing and spinning in its plastic seat, ruining the drill.
The drill was never designed to drill for the length of time we sand
and the dust and grit are also not good for its health.
Blasting out the crud with compressed air and/or replacing the bearing
with a sealed bearing is recommended.
I use the regular 1-2-3" velcro sanding holder and paper as I use on my
other drills.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Thanks for the reply. I was aware of the problems with the bearings
from reading some old threads on the subject. Found a pretty good deal
on a refurbished unit, with a 5 year warranty. Will actually use it
more for it's intended purpose during the week in my regular job and
on the weekends for play (lathe). Do you keep some bearings on hand
and just make it a part of routine maintenance ?
Any particular velcro sanding holder ? Source ?
Thanks,
Lenny

Hi Lenny

No bearings on hand, still the originals, I use the Milwaukee only when
necessary and I keep it clean.
I have bought my disk holders from Lee Valley but usually get them from
Stockroom Supply at the wood show, pick up also 2" and 3" wide rolls of
velcro backed abrasives and cut them to size when needed, cuts down on
cost.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 18:53:44 -0500, Lenny wrote:

On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 08:39:08 -0800, mac davis
wrote:


lenny... I debated the same thing.. Jet Mini was a bit over $200... Talon chuck
was about $200 with shipping and extra jaw set...

OTOH, that chuck is now on my $900 14" lathe... does that make it any less
expensive? *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Well, as Leo said "it's all relative"... I know the Talon was a good
fit for my Rockwell 46-525. Part of my initial reasoning was that it
would hold it's value ( meaning I could sell it if it didn't work
out)and could easily be used for a different lathe just by changing
the adapter. Now that I've used it, I can't imagine being without it.

One thing I've noticed over the years is I'm never diasapointed when I
end up spending more than I had intended for a tool, ... Often
disapointed when I try to go cheap.

Hey, I just got the #2 jaws with my Talon, and have heard that the
spigot jaws would be a good choice for a second pair. My question is
which version (standard or smooth) would be better and why?

Also, I have ordered a Milwaukee close quarter drill and plan to get a
sanding accessory for use with it .... any suggestions as to what I
should look for and where?

Lenny

I got the spigot jaws but never seem to use them... I did at first, but I think
that was because I really didn't understand chucking and thought small.. *g*

I use these for power sanding with my $25 Milwaukee knock off:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...54&cat=1,42500

other places have cheaper ones, but I find that these hold up well...

I use both "round" and "wave" sanding disks... prefer the wave for bowls..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...53&cat=1,42500

I don't buy the wave H&L disks at Lee Valley, because they don't sell in 50
packs... most places on the web have them in 50 packs for about $12 or $13...




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On 31 Jan 2006 20:46:36 -0800, "
wrote:

Hi Lenny

No bearings on hand, still the originals, I use the Milwaukee only when
necessary and I keep it clean.
I have bought my disk holders from Lee Valley but usually get them from
Stockroom Supply at the wood show, pick up also 2" and 3" wide rolls of
velcro backed abrasives and cut them to size when needed, cuts down on
cost.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Great idea ! Thanks for the tip.

Lenny

On Wed, 01 Feb 2006 09:47:19 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I got the spigot jaws but never seem to use them... I did at first, but I think
that was because I really didn't understand chucking and thought small.. *g*

I use these for power sanding with my $25 Milwaukee knock off:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...54&cat=1,42500

other places have cheaper ones, but I find that these hold up well...

I use both "round" and "wave" sanding disks... prefer the wave for bowls..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...53&cat=1,42500

I don't buy the wave H&L disks at Lee Valley, because they don't sell in 50
packs... most places on the web have them in 50 packs for about $12 or $13...




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Thanks Mac !

Lenny