Greetings!!

I have a quick question regarding buffing with the Beall system.

In the the Beall buffing instructions, they say to not use linseed oil.
But, is BLO different than linseed oil when you are going to use it for
buffing?

I have several pens that are ready for the buff job. But, I wanted to check
with my "resources" (aka y'all) to see if BLO causes a problem while using
the Beall buffer. I just got it for my birthday and would really prefer to
not screw the buffer (or the pens) up on my first try.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

Rob

"Rob McConachie" wrote in message
news

In the the Beall buffing instructions, they say to not use linseed oil.
But, is BLO different than linseed oil when you are going to use it for
buffing?


You have to have fully cured oil. Would hold for BLO, or BLO/Varnish
formulations like "Danish" oils, all the way through high-test varnish.

Also a good idea to buff lightly when you don't have as much varnish in the
mix so as not to flow poorly cured oil or buff through the soft layer on the
surface. Makes a mess of the buff and the piece.

The Bealle instruction is referring to a Raw Linssed Oil.

All drying oils need atmospheric oxygen for them to cure. The problem
is that the "raw" linseed oil cures only on the surface, and that forms
an effective seal so the oil under it doesn't cure. Buffing will expose
the uncured oil below the surface, and all you will get is a mess.

Boiled Linseed Oil has been modified with the addition of drying agents
the so it will cure all the way through.

There are always the problems of buffing too soon or putting too much
oil on the the wood.

Too soon can be solved by waiting a week before buffing.

The too much can be solved by not putting on so many coats that there
is a build up of oil on the surface. The solution here is to not do it,
2 or 3 at the most coats of Boiled Linseed Oil are sufficient. Or, you
can wait the several weeks to months for the oil to cure all the way
down into the wood.

If you want a surface film, you should be using an oil finish with a
varnish. Th varnish resins are harder than the oil, and can be built up
with many coats to give it depth and gloss. Again, don't go too fast,
and wait for it to get hard before buffing.

There can also be a problem with putting on the next coat of oil before
the previous one has dried. always wait overnight before recoating any
oil finish, and always abrade the previous surface with 0000-steel
wool. This prepares the surface for a better bond with the next coat,
and it is also an indicator of whether it is ready for the next coat.
If the dry finish comes up as a white powder, it is cured. If it
doesn't, it isn't

The Bealle instruction is referring to a Raw Linssed Oil.


All drying oils need atmospheric oxygen for them to cure. The problem
is that the "raw" linseed oil cures only on the surface, and that forms

an effective seal so the oil under it doesn't cure. Buffing will expose

the uncured oil below the surface, and all you will get is a mess.


Boiled Linseed Oil has been modified with the addition of drying agents

the so it will cure all the way through.


There are always the problems of buffing too soon or putting too much
oil on the the wood.


Too soon can be solved by waiting a week before buffing.


The too much can be solved by not putting on so many coats that there
is a build up of oil on the surface. The solution here is to not do it,

2 or 3 at the most coats of Boiled Linseed Oil are sufficient. Or, you
can wait the several weeks to months for the oil to cure all the way
down into the wood.


If you want a surface film, you should be using an oil finish with a
varnish. Th varnish resins are harder than the oil, and can be built up

with many coats to give it depth and gloss. Again, don't go too fast,
and wait for it to get hard before buffing.


There can also be a problem with putting on the next coat of oil before

the previous one has dried. always wait overnight before recoating any
oil finish, and always abrade the previous surface with 0000-steel
wool. This prepares the surface for a better bond with the next coat,
and it is also an indicator of whether it is ready for the next coat.
If the dry finish comes up as a white powder, it is cured. If it
doesn't, it isn't


Russ Fairfield