A DIY & home improvement forum. DIYbanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » DIYbanter forum » Do - it - Yourself » Woodturning
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters.

Boring bar setup and use



 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old August 29th 05, 03:02 AM
Comcast Newsgroups
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Boring bar setup and use

I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured someone
out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided hollowing system
with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also using the Stewart
system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper blade attached to the
Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned the vessel to approx. "
wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker type tool in the Stewart arm
brace. My problem is severe vibration when hollowing the sides with the
boring bar. I am using the same setup as described in Lyle Jamieson's
website, secondary tool rest is at lathe center height and the cutting tip
is at center line. I am able to scrape very nicely at the bottom and at the
neck but when I get to the sides it vibrates very severely. This is not a
deep bowl, approximately 6 inches deep; the wood is dry sycamore (I get the
same vibration with other woods). I have to be doing something wrong but
unfortunately I haven't figured it out. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong
will be greatly appreciated....Ralph


Ads
  #2  
Old August 29th 05, 04:14 AM
Kevin Neelley
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi Ralph,

I use the Sorby RS2000 which is basically the same as the Stewart System. If
you are having severe vibration I would use a steady rest, even though the bowl
is only 6" deep. The steady rest might allow you to finish the bowl without
excessive vibration.

You mentioned that you have turned the bowl's lip and bottom before you have
turned the sides. Maybe, you have turned the bottom so thin that you have
weakened the structure. Personally, I turn the bowl interior to thickness,
starting at the lip, working down to the base, so the area I'm turning is always
supported by thick wood.

Maybe there is a wood defect near the bowl base that you can't easily detect.

Another thing you might try is to hollow your bowl using a 1/4" wide blade and
then switch to a teardrop blade at the final shear scaping cleanup of the bowl's
interior.

Finally, here is a remote possibility but I thought I'd throw it out because it
bit me a while ago. Make sure your chuck or faceplate is absolutely tight
against the headstock. John Jordan suggests not using a plastic washer to make
it easier to unscrew your chuck. I second that recommendation (I use Slick50
oil). Also, some poorly designed faceplates bottom on the threads rather than
against the face on the headstock, which will leave the faceplate prone to
misalignment and vibration, so you need to add a spacer washer.

I'm out of ideas but I've been there. Sometimes turnings will drive you crazy
with weird problems. All you have to do is solve them before the bowl
self-destructs.

Kevin


In article , Comcast
Newsgroups says...

I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured someone
out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided hollowing system
with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also using the Stewart
system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper blade attached to the
Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned the vessel to approx. "
wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker type tool in the Stewart arm
brace. My problem is severe vibration when hollowing the sides with the
boring bar. I am using the same setup as described in Lyle Jamieson's
website, secondary tool rest is at lathe center height and the cutting tip
is at center line. I am able to scrape very nicely at the bottom and at the
neck but when I get to the sides it vibrates very severely. This is not a
deep bowl, approximately 6 inches deep; the wood is dry sycamore (I get the
same vibration with other woods). I have to be doing something wrong but
unfortunately I haven't figured it out. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong
will be greatly appreciated....Ralph



  #3  
Old August 29th 05, 04:21 AM
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Try this. Sharpen your scraper again. Turn the scraper blade down to
the left until it starts to cut. Expose less of the blade to the wood.
Your toolrest should be close, but not so close that the blade will hit
when you back out. You should be close to the project so that your arms
and body will help reduce vibration. The project should be
stairstepped so that more wood is into the bottom. In other words
reduce as you go down. Use a gauge so that you know where you are at.
Others my have more input, this is all the suggestions, I have at the
moment. GT

  #4  
Old August 29th 05, 05:29 AM
william_b_noble
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

hint (for next bowl) - hollow it out in 1/2 inch lengths, leaving at least
3/4 inch thichkess below, starting at the rim. this applies to hollow forms
as well (as John Jordan demonstrated, among others)
"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured
someone out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided
hollowing system with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also using
the Stewart system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper blade
attached to the Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned the
vessel to approx. " wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker type tool
in the Stewart arm brace. My problem is severe vibration when hollowing
the sides with the boring bar. I am using the same setup as described in
Lyle Jamieson's website, secondary tool rest is at lathe center height and
the cutting tip is at center line. I am able to scrape very nicely at the
bottom and at the neck but when I get to the sides it vibrates very
severely. This is not a deep bowl, approximately 6 inches deep; the wood
is dry sycamore (I get the same vibration with other woods). I have to be
doing something wrong but unfortunately I haven't figured it out. Any
ideas on what I am doing wrong will be greatly appreciated....Ralph




  #5  
Old August 29th 05, 07:08 AM
Ken Moon
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured
someone out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided
hollowing system with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also using
the Stewart system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper blade
attached to the Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned the
vessel to approx. " wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker type tool
in the Stewart arm brace. My problem is severe vibration when hollowing
the sides with the boring bar. I am using the same setup as described in
Lyle Jamieson's website, secondary tool rest is at lathe center height and
the cutting tip is at center line. I am able to scrape very nicely at the
bottom and at the neck but when I get to the sides it vibrates very
severely. This is not a deep bowl, approximately 6 inches deep; the wood
is dry sycamore (I get the same vibration with other woods). I have to be
doing something wrong but unfortunately I haven't figured it out. Any
ideas on what I am doing wrong will be greatly appreciated....Ralph

=========================

You say you're using the teardrop scraper. If you're using the large radius
portion at right angle to the side, you may have too much cutter surface
attacking the side. Turn the cutter to expose a smaller surface to the cut,
and use a very LIGHT cut. See if that helps.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.


  #6  
Old August 29th 05, 07:48 AM
william_b_noble
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

???? I was just rereading this, and it struck me - why the heck are you
using all that hollowing stuff if what you are making is a "bowl"?? A 6
inch deep bowl of dry sycamore doesn't reaquire all that fancy stuff
"Ken Moon" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured
someone out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided
hollowing system with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also
using the Stewart system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper
blade attached to the Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned
the vessel to approx. " wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker type
tool in the Stewart arm brace. My problem is severe vibration when
hollowing the sides with the boring bar. I am using the same setup as
described in Lyle Jamieson's website, secondary tool rest is at lathe
center height and the cutting tip is at center line. I am able to scrape
very nicely at the bottom and at the neck but when I get to the sides it
vibrates very severely. This is not a deep bowl, approximately 6 inches
deep; the wood is dry sycamore (I get the same vibration with other
woods). I have to be doing something wrong but unfortunately I haven't
figured it out. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong will be greatly
appreciated....Ralph

=========================

You say you're using the teardrop scraper. If you're using the large
radius portion at right angle to the side, you may have too much cutter
surface attacking the side. Turn the cutter to expose a smaller surface to
the cut, and use a very LIGHT cut. See if that helps.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.



  #7  
Old August 29th 05, 05:25 PM
Comcast Newsgroups
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks to all who answered. Ken, the reason I am using the boring bar is
because I want to get real thin walls for piercing. I do not intend to use
it except for that purpose. My hollowing technique with the Stewart type
system is more than adequate but I don't trust myself for real thin walls
(1/8" to 1/16"). I wanted to answer Ken's post which others may have had
the same question. I will continue to read the posts and reply again later.
Thanks......Ralph

"william_b_noble" wrote in message
news:1125294518.2ba8de33c0e49368e609dc7fcd2df7b2@t eranews...
???? I was just rereading this, and it struck me - why the heck are you
using all that hollowing stuff if what you are making is a "bowl"?? A 6
inch deep bowl of dry sycamore doesn't reaquire all that fancy stuff
"Ken Moon" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured
someone out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided
hollowing system with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also
using the Stewart system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper
blade attached to the Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned
the vessel to approx. " wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker type
tool in the Stewart arm brace. My problem is severe vibration when
hollowing the sides with the boring bar. I am using the same setup as
described in Lyle Jamieson's website, secondary tool rest is at lathe
center height and the cutting tip is at center line. I am able to scrape
very nicely at the bottom and at the neck but when I get to the sides it
vibrates very severely. This is not a deep bowl, approximately 6 inches
deep; the wood is dry sycamore (I get the same vibration with other
woods). I have to be doing something wrong but unfortunately I haven't
figured it out. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong will be greatly
appreciated....Ralph

=========================

You say you're using the teardrop scraper. If you're using the large
radius portion at right angle to the side, you may have too much cutter
surface attacking the side. Turn the cutter to expose a smaller surface
to the cut, and use a very LIGHT cut. See if that helps.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.





  #8  
Old August 29th 05, 06:49 PM
Comcast Newsgroups
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I need my cup of coffee, I was replying to Bill's comment not Ken's,
sorry......Ralph
"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
Thanks to all who answered. Ken, the reason I am using the boring bar is
because I want to get real thin walls for piercing. I do not intend to
use it except for that purpose. My hollowing technique with the Stewart
type system is more than adequate but I don't trust myself for real thin
walls (1/8" to 1/16"). I wanted to answer Ken's post which others may
have had the same question. I will continue to read the posts and reply
again later. Thanks......Ralph

"william_b_noble" wrote in message
news:1125294518.2ba8de33c0e49368e609dc7fcd2df7b2@t eranews...
???? I was just rereading this, and it struck me - why the heck are you
using all that hollowing stuff if what you are making is a "bowl"?? A 6
inch deep bowl of dry sycamore doesn't reaquire all that fancy stuff
"Ken Moon" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
I am having a bit of a problem using a boring bar system and figured
someone out there can help. I am using the new Oneway laser guided
hollowing system with the John Jordan secondary tool rest. I am also
using the Stewart system " hollowing tool with the tear drop scraper
blade attached to the Oneway boring bar. I have manually rough turned
the vessel to approx. " wall thickness using the John Jordan hooker
type tool in the Stewart arm brace. My problem is severe vibration when
hollowing the sides with the boring bar. I am using the same setup as
described in Lyle Jamieson's website, secondary tool rest is at lathe
center height and the cutting tip is at center line. I am able to
scrape very nicely at the bottom and at the neck but when I get to the
sides it vibrates very severely. This is not a deep bowl, approximately
6 inches deep; the wood is dry sycamore (I get the same vibration with
other woods). I have to be doing something wrong but unfortunately I
haven't figured it out. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong will be
greatly appreciated....Ralph
=========================

You say you're using the teardrop scraper. If you're using the large
radius portion at right angle to the side, you may have too much cutter
surface attacking the side. Turn the cutter to expose a smaller surface
to the cut, and use a very LIGHT cut. See if that helps.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.







  #9  
Old August 29th 05, 09:56 PM
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You may half to rethink to whole thing here Ken. Turn wet using gouges
like Binh Poah does. Finish the product all in one session. He uses
mostly maple for his projects. GT

  #10  
Old August 30th 05, 06:22 AM
william_b_noble
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

you are doing it wrong if you want thing walls on bowls. Try it this way:
1start with a nice piece of freshly cut ash. (I choose this wood for a good
reason, keep reading)
2 turn your bowl, leaving walls about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick - get the outer
wall to the final shape.
3. put a bright light behind the ash
4. turn from the top edge towards the bottom - go about 1 inch max - turn it
thinner and thnner until you see the light
5. stop and see how thick it is - start up again and turn thinner, keeping
uniform light - stop and measure occasionally
6. when it's the thickness you want, memorize how the light looks, and
proceed to turn down the next segment (1 inch max) to match the luminance.
blend so you don't see the line (by luminance)
7. proceed this way to the bottom (which you should leave a little thicker)
8. sand lightly and spray with laquer
9 pierce away

after you do this, you will
1. understand why I specified fresh ash
2. realize that the wood is fully dry and finished in one session
3. realize that it's easy to turn paper thin
4. realise that you can make somethign "too thin", and it doesn't feel right
5. not bother with hollowing tools and lasers for bowls
bill

"Comcast Newsgroups" wrote in message
...
Thanks to all who answered. Ken, the reason I am using the boring bar is
because I want to get real thin walls for piercing. I do not intend to
use it except for that purpose. My hollowing technique with the Stewart
type system is more than adequate but I don't trust myself for real thin
walls (1/8" to 1/16"). I wanted to answer Ken's post which others may
have had the same question. I will continue to read the posts and reply
again later. Thanks......Ralph

"william_b_noble" wrote in message
news:1125294518.2ba8de33c0e49368e609dc7fcd2df7b2@t eranews...
???? I was just rereading this, and it struck me - why the heck are you
using all that hollowing stuff if what you are making is a "bowl"?? A 6
inch deep bowl of dry sycamore doesn't reaquire all that fancy stuff
"Ken Moon" wrote in message
nk.net...



 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.