Hello all,

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. It seems like a fairly
simple project, but I'm wondering just how in the heck I can get the
threads tapped in the knob. I don't want to epoxy it in place, as the
car is new and I want to have the option to replace it again should
that become necessary later. While I'm sure there is a tap with the
proper thread size somewhere, it seems like overkill to buy a really
large and probably fairly uncommon tap for one hole, so I was thinking
of trying to find a nut at the local hardware store that I can epoxy
into the center of the knob, and use that. The only problem is that I
have no idea what size I am looking for.

Does anyone know if those knobs use a single standard thread size, and
if they do, what that size may be? Or, has anyone tried a different
strategy for creating threads inside of a turned piece? I have some
old cans of that "Durham's Rock hard putty" in the basement, and I
wonder if it might be possible to mix something like that up, fill the
hollowed knob about 1/3 full, and then grease the shifter lever with
something to keep it from sticking and use the shifter itself as sort
of a thread mold. Tried doing a google search, but I didn't find much
on this sort of project with the serach strings I tried, so I figured
I'd check in here and see if anyone has done this before, and how it
worked out.

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. It seems like a fairly
simple project, but I'm wondering just how in the heck I can get the
threads tapped in the knob. I don't want to epoxy it in place, as the
car is new and I want to have the option to replace it again should
that become necessary later. While I'm sure there is a tap with the
proper thread size somewhere, it seems like overkill to buy a really
large and probably fairly uncommon tap for one hole, so I was thinking
of trying to find a nut at the local hardware store that I can epoxy
into the center of the knob, and use that. The only problem is that I
have no idea what size I am looking for.

In my faster days the ol' 8-ball was considered de-rigeur, which was drilled
to take a short length of plastic tubing. Even garden hose'd do in a pinch.
This then "self-tapped" over the gear-lever.

When properly sized no glue was needed and one size fit all...

--
- Andy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ever just seem to not be able to get around to procrastinating?

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...


Does anyone know if those knobs use a single standard thread size, and
if they do, what that size may be? Or, has anyone tried a different
strategy for creating threads inside of a turned piece?

Use a threaded insert.

Prometheus wrote:
Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. It seems like a fairly
simple project, but I'm wondering just how in the heck I can get the
threads tapped in the knob. I don't want to epoxy it in place, as the
car is new and I want to have the option to replace it again should
that become necessary later. While I'm sure there is a tap with the
proper thread size somewhere, it seems like overkill to buy a really
large and probably fairly uncommon tap for one hole, so I was thinking
of trying to find a nut at the local hardware store that I can epoxy
into the center of the knob, and use that. The only problem is that I
have no idea what size I am looking for.

Does anyone know if those knobs use a single standard thread size, and
if they do, what that size may be? Or, has anyone tried a different
strategy for creating threads inside of a turned piece? I have some
old cans of that "Durham's Rock hard putty" in the basement, and I
wonder if it might be possible to mix something like that up, fill the
hollowed knob about 1/3 full, and then grease the shifter lever with
something to keep it from sticking and use the shifter itself as sort
of a thread mold. Tried doing a google search, but I didn't find much
on this sort of project with the serach strings I tried, so I figured
I'd check in here and see if anyone has done this before, and how it
worked out.

I've done it in the past. Different makes/models use different threads,
but they are normal threads. If you can remove the knob, take it into
the hardware store with you and have them see if they can find a bolt to
match it. That'll tell you what the thread is. It's "probably" metric,
so start there. OTOH, you can always take your nut jar out to the car
and see if any of them fit.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

Prometheus wrote:
While I'm sure there is a tap with the
proper thread size somewhere, it seems like overkill to buy a really
large and probably fairly uncommon tap for one hole, so I was thinking
of trying to find a nut at the local hardware store that I can epoxy
into the center of the knob, and use that.

Nothing wrong with that idea, I'd drill the hole slightly undersize so
the nut can be press-fit in the hole which contains a dab of epoxy.
If the connection needs to be stronger, I'd use a coupling nut, which is
longer and you wouldn't need any glue if it was driven tight into a hole.

Ken Grunke

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Some are threaded and some are not, they're slip overs onto splines,
like my 92 Ford 4x4 Supercab. Go to your dealer and ask to see a knob,
then you'll know if it's splined or threaded and can ask the thread size.
John

Prometheus wrote:
Hello all,

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. It seems like a fairly
simple project, but I'm wondering just how in the heck I can get the
threads tapped in the knob. I don't want to epoxy it in place, as the
car is new and I want to have the option to replace it again should
that become necessary later. While I'm sure there is a tap with the
proper thread size somewhere, it seems like overkill to buy a really
large and probably fairly uncommon tap for one hole, so I was thinking
of trying to find a nut at the local hardware store that I can epoxy
into the center of the knob, and use that. The only problem is that I
have no idea what size I am looking for.

Does anyone know if those knobs use a single standard thread size, and
if they do, what that size may be? Or, has anyone tried a different
strategy for creating threads inside of a turned piece? I have some
old cans of that "Durham's Rock hard putty" in the basement, and I
wonder if it might be possible to mix something like that up, fill the
hollowed knob about 1/3 full, and then grease the shifter lever with
something to keep it from sticking and use the shifter itself as sort
of a thread mold. Tried doing a google search, but I didn't find much
on this sort of project with the serach strings I tried, so I figured
I'd check in here and see if anyone has done this before, and how it
worked out.

take your dial calipers, measure the minor diameter of the thread and drill
the hole to that size (or about .010 over). then, oil (or wax, or soap) the
inside of the hole and the threaded part of the shift lever and slowly work
the knob onto the metal - the metal will form the threads in the knob - turn
about a half turn, then back off 1/4, then forward 1/2, back 1/4 until it's
on all the way
"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
Hello all,

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. It seems like a fairly
simple project, but I'm wondering just how in the heck I can get the
threads tapped in the knob. I don't want to epoxy it in place, as the
car is new and I want to have the option to replace it again should
that become necessary later. While I'm sure there is a tap with the
proper thread size somewhere, it seems like overkill to buy a really
large and probably fairly uncommon tap for one hole, so I was thinking
of trying to find a nut at the local hardware store that I can epoxy
into the center of the knob, and use that. The only problem is that I
have no idea what size I am looking for.

Does anyone know if those knobs use a single standard thread size, and
if they do, what that size may be? Or, has anyone tried a different
strategy for creating threads inside of a turned piece? I have some
old cans of that "Durham's Rock hard putty" in the basement, and I
wonder if it might be possible to mix something like that up, fill the
hollowed knob about 1/3 full, and then grease the shifter lever with
something to keep it from sticking and use the shifter itself as sort
of a thread mold. Tried doing a google search, but I didn't find much
on this sort of project with the serach strings I tried, so I figured
I'd check in here and see if anyone has done this before, and how it
worked out.

On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 14:08:11 -0700, "william_b_noble"
wrote:

take your dial calipers, measure the minor diameter of the thread and drill
the hole to that size (or about .010 over). then, oil (or wax, or soap) the
inside of the hole and the threaded part of the shift lever and slowly work
the knob onto the metal - the metal will form the threads in the knob - turn
about a half turn, then back off 1/4, then forward 1/2, back 1/4 until it's
on all the way

Think I'll try this one first (hardware store is closed for the
holliday)- if it splits, then I'll check out the hardware store on
Monday. Thanks to everyone for the advice, looks like I've got quite
a few different options there, and some of them I hadn't thought of.

"Prometheus" wrote: (clip)if it splits, then I'll check out the hardware
store on Monday (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
My solution will also require you to wait 'til the stores open after the
holiday. That's OK--enjoy the holiday. Loc-tite and Permatex both sell kits
for repairing stripped threads. It's a two-part epoxy system, with a
special release agent that you spray on the threads. You apply the mixed
resin in the hole and on the threads, and then just shove it together.
After it is cured, just unscrew it. In your case, you wouldn't even have to
do that until you are ready to sell the car and want to keep the knob.

You may be pioneering into a new way to make money as a turner--get a booth
at a car show and sell custom knobs.

A concept - drill a slightly oversized hole in the knob. Wrap the threads
tightly with a wrap and a half of Teflon tape and epoxy in place.

On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 01:58:11 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
^^^^^^^^^^^
My solution will also require you to wait 'til the stores open after the
holiday. That's OK--enjoy the holiday. Loc-tite and Permatex both sell kits
for repairing stripped threads. It's a two-part epoxy system, with a
special release agent that you spray on the threads. You apply the mixed
resin in the hole and on the threads, and then just shove it together.
After it is cured, just unscrew it. In your case, you wouldn't even have to
do that until you are ready to sell the car and want to keep the knob.

Sounds a lot like the stuff I used to replace the handle on my
splitting maul. To follow up, I did get the knob turned- though I
used a bit of an oak burl cap rather than the cherry I had in mind.
Sanded it until it was very shiny (1500 grit, and then burnished with
the back of some sandpaper), wrapped it in a bit of clean cloth, then
drilled a hole the same size as the small dimention of the threads to
the proper depth with a forsner bit on the drill press. Left the
cloth wrapped around the knob, and mounted it in the chuck again to
hollow out the bit that the sliding handle you use to put the car into
reverse slides into, using a bow caliper to get the correct ID. Then
I threaded the knob onto the shaft of the shifter directly, and it
seems to have taken the impressions of the threads very well. I was
able to turn the knob about three turns at a time, and then back the
piece completely off to clear the sawdust. Once it was fully on, it
worked like a charm, and was nice and tight, but I was still able to
put it on and take it off several times without stripping the threads
I had got in there.

The burl I used had been soaking in LDD for about three weeks, so I'm
hoping that will keep it from cracking or deforming as it dries, and
the project is currently fully submerged in tung oil. I could have
just finished it as normal, but this particular hunk of burl gave me a
bit of trouble (deforming) with the bowl I turned out of it when I
first cut it (no LDD soak with that one), so I figured getting that
oil really deeply into the wood wasn't a bad idea. Finish coat will
be spar polyurethane- I would have preferred shellac, but on
reflection I decided that I didn't want to risk ruining it if I got
into the car in the rain, and shifted with wet hands!

You may be pioneering into a new way to make money as a turner--get a booth
at a car show and sell custom knobs.

There may be some money in that- If it turns out really well, I
already work as a fabricator for a place that makes custom trailer
hitches for cars, so I might show it to the boss, and see if they're
willing to display a few in the booths they've already got. But I'll
have to think about that- I'd hate to get locked into doing nothing
but turning little knobs in my spare time! Of course, if anyone else
cares to do it, have at it. As I was putting on the shifter knob, I
had the thought that I may do the same with the window crank handles,
just to have a matching set, so there's another product to go with it.


I'll toss up a picture of the end result on ABPW once I've got it
finished and installed, probably on Tuesday.

Prometheus writes:
Hello all,

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. snip

Way back when, I had a 1978 Chevy Luv with a wooden shift knob that was
purchased at an auto parts store. It looked really cool and felt good to
the touch, but it transmitted transmission noise. As I recall, it had a
metal insert in the top of it that said "Luv" or something like that. It
may have been the metal that was the cause, but I remember it was a really
irritating sound because it would change when you would grip the knob and
then let go. However, I love your idea and hopefully you won't experience
that noise. Let us know how it goes.

Best Regards, Phil
Visit my Web Site: www.philsfun.com

On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 09:32:00 -0700, "Phil Anderson"
wrote:


Prometheus writes:
Hello all,

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. snip

Way back when, I had a 1978 Chevy Luv with a wooden shift knob that was
purchased at an auto parts store. It looked really cool and felt good to
the touch, but it transmitted transmission noise. As I recall, it had a
metal insert in the top of it that said "Luv" or something like that. It
may have been the metal that was the cause, but I remember it was a really
irritating sound because it would change when you would grip the knob and
then let go. However, I love your idea and hopefully you won't experience
that noise. Let us know how it goes.

No noise that I noticed after I got it installed, but I did kinda
screw up- I turned it out of oak burl instead of cherry, and got
impatient witj the drying time of the spar polyurethane I put on it.
So the first time I drove it, I wore some of the finish off, and got a
bunch of little cracks and deformities where the wood was exposed.
But, the experience of turning it was fun, and it worked really well
well, so I'm just chalking that first one up to practice, and plan on
making another one out of that cherry I had in mind in the first
place. This time I'll wait the billion+ years for the poly to dry
before I install it, though.

I'll toss a picture or two of the knob (installed) in ABPW. I'm not
an excellent photographer, so they're the best I can come up with. As
a matter of taste, I think the cherry will actually go better with the
interior anyhow.

Hi Prometheus

Saw your pic. of the knob, pretty sharp, the cherry might not look any
better, when you're done with it
Did you get the size and the TPI for the shift knob ?
Most of the threads used on the cars today are metric, the simplest way
to find the thread size is to take your shift knob to HD and find a bold
that fits, than get nut and glue it into your new knob, just my thinking.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Prometheus wrote:
O Hello all,

Since I spend so much time in the car during my daily commute, I was
thinking that I'd like to turn a knob for my stick shift out of a nice
hunk of cherry I've got sitting in the garage. snip

On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 05:57:16 -0400, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:

Hi Prometheus

Saw your pic. of the knob, pretty sharp, the cherry might not look any
better, when you're done with it
Did you get the size and the TPI for the shift knob ?
Most of the threads used on the cars today are metric, the simplest way
to find the thread size is to take your shift knob to HD and find a bold
that fits, than get nut and glue it into your new knob, just my thinking.

Nah, I went with just threading it on. It's slightly larger than
3/8", so I drilled a pilot hole with a forsner bit, and then screwed
it on slowly, backing it off every couple of turns to clear the dust-
the oak took the thread impressions really well, and it wasn't going
anywhere. I might spend a bit of time trying some nuts from my jar of
random nuts & bolts for the cherry one, but I'm not sure it'd need it.
After all, if it strips out, I can always drill it out and epoxy a nut
in later.

[Bill in Detroit]

Prometheus wrote:

Nah, I went with just threading it on. It's slightly larger than
3/8",

That makes it most likely a 10mm at roughly .395" vs .375 for 3/8.

[Prometheus]

On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 13:56:36 -0500, Bill in Detroit
wrote:

Prometheus wrote:

Nah, I went with just threading it on. It's slightly larger than
3/8",

That makes it most likely a 10mm at roughly .395" vs .375 for 3/8.

Reading the archives, Bill?

That one's almost a year and a half old!

[skeez]

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 20:16:47 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:

On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 14:08:11 -0700, "william_b_noble"
wrote:

take your dial calipers, measure the minor diameter of the thread and drill
the hole to that size (or about .010 over). then, oil (or wax, or soap) the
inside of the hole and the threaded part of the shift lever and slowly work
the knob onto the metal - the metal will form the threads in the knob - turn
about a half turn, then back off 1/4, then forward 1/2, back 1/4 until it's
on all the way

Think I'll try this one first (hardware store is closed for the
holliday)- if it splits, then I'll check out the hardware store on
Monday. Thanks to everyone for the advice, looks like I've got quite
a few different options there, and some of them I hadn't thought of.


another option is to find a bolt the right size and grind some flutes
in it lengthwise to make your own tap. this works fine on wood and is
a lot cheeper than a tap for just one use.

skeez

[skeez]

On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 05:58:27 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 01:58:11 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
^^^^^^^^^^^
My solution will also require you to wait 'til the stores open after the
holiday. That's OK--enjoy the holiday. Loc-tite and Permatex both sell kits
for repairing stripped threads. It's a two-part epoxy system, with a
special release agent that you spray on the threads. You apply the mixed
resin in the hole and on the threads, and then just shove it together.
After it is cured, just unscrew it. In your case, you wouldn't even have to
do that until you are ready to sell the car and want to keep the knob.

Sounds a lot like the stuff I used to replace the handle on my
splitting maul. To follow up, I did get the knob turned- though I
used a bit of an oak burl cap rather than the cherry I had in mind.
Sanded it until it was very shiny (1500 grit, and then burnished with
the back of some sandpaper), wrapped it in a bit of clean cloth, then
drilled a hole the same size as the small dimention of the threads to
the proper depth with a forsner bit on the drill press. Left the
cloth wrapped around the knob, and mounted it in the chuck again to
hollow out the bit that the sliding handle you use to put the car into
reverse slides into, using a bow caliper to get the correct ID. Then
I threaded the knob onto the shaft of the shifter directly, and it
seems to have taken the impressions of the threads very well. I was
able to turn the knob about three turns at a time, and then back the
piece completely off to clear the sawdust. Once it was fully on, it
worked like a charm, and was nice and tight, but I was still able to
put it on and take it off several times without stripping the threads
I had got in there.

The burl I used had been soaking in LDD for about three weeks, so I'm
hoping that will keep it from cracking or deforming as it dries, and
the project is currently fully submerged in tung oil. I could have
just finished it as normal, but this particular hunk of burl gave me a
bit of trouble (deforming) with the bowl I turned out of it when I
first cut it (no LDD soak with that one), so I figured getting that
oil really deeply into the wood wasn't a bad idea. Finish coat will
be spar polyurethane- I would have preferred shellac, but on
reflection I decided that I didn't want to risk ruining it if I got
into the car in the rain, and shifted with wet hands!

You may be pioneering into a new way to make money as a turner--get a booth
at a car show and sell custom knobs.

There may be some money in that- If it turns out really well, I
already work as a fabricator for a place that makes custom trailer
hitches for cars, so I might show it to the boss, and see if they're
willing to display a few in the booths they've already got. But I'll
have to think about that- I'd hate to get locked into doing nothing
but turning little knobs in my spare time! Of course, if anyone else
cares to do it, have at it. As I was putting on the shifter knob, I
had the thought that I may do the same with the window crank handles,
just to have a matching set, so there's another product to go with it.


I'll toss up a picture of the end result on ABPW once I've got it
finished and installed, probably on Tuesday.

check out the pen turners sites and look at CA finishing. super hard
finish and can be finnish sanded with micro mesk down to 12000 grit
for a real good shine. CA isnot afected by bodily fluids much and will
hold up much longer the poly.

skeez

[Prometheus]

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 15:56:31 -0500, skeez
wrote:

check out the pen turners sites and look at CA finishing. super hard
finish and can be finnish sanded with micro mesk down to 12000 grit
for a real good shine. CA isnot afected by bodily fluids much and will
hold up much longer the poly.

Thanks for the interest, skeez- but the spar poly has held up just
great for the last year and a half. (In spite of the fact that my
hands are often dirty when driving home) In fact, it's done nothing
but get smoother and shinier over time. The cherry has darkened
nicely as well, and still no checks or warping.

It's a nice project for anyone who spends a lot of time in the car,
and wants a little piece of the shop along for the ride.

Still wondering how this one floated back up to the surface, though!