UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
inNeedofHelp
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 Gang Light Switch WIring

Hi,

In my kitchen I am going to install a 2 gang, 1 way switch, to control
main light and under wall units lights seperatly.

As I am in a flat, we don't have ceiling access and lights are wired
with in switch wiring, so I am going to continue down this route for
the new lights.

Question is do I just run one 1.0mm cable(red, black, earth) into the
switch to provide the power, then I can have my 2 cables coming out to
switch, one to each set of lights?


Each switch has a L1, L2, L3 on the back of the switch, so it does not
appear this is possible, at first glance?


Any thoughts?

THanks
  #2   Report Post  
Dave Jones
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
om...
Hi,

In my kitchen I am going to install a 2 gang, 1 way switch, to control
main light and under wall units lights seperatly.

As I am in a flat, we don't have ceiling access and lights are wired
with in switch wiring, so I am going to continue down this route for
the new lights.

Question is do I just run one 1.0mm cable(red, black, earth) into the
switch to provide the power, then I can have my 2 cables coming out to
switch, one to each set of lights?


Yes, but colours are now brown and blue

Each switch has a L1, L2, L3 on the back of the switch, so it does not
appear this is possible, at first glance?

Run the live to L1 on one gang, and link to L1 on second gang.
Terminate Neutral in single termnal block.
Terminate earth to earthing point
Wire lights off L2, Terminal blockand earth respectivly


Any thoughts?

THanks



  #3   Report Post  
inNeedofHelp
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Dave Jones" wrote in message ...
"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
om...
Hi,

In my kitchen I am going to install a 2 gang, 1 way switch, to control
main light and under wall units lights seperatly.

As I am in a flat, we don't have ceiling access and lights are wired
with in switch wiring, so I am going to continue down this route for
the new lights.

Question is do I just run one 1.0mm cable(red, black, earth) into the
switch to provide the power, then I can have my 2 cables coming out to
switch, one to each set of lights?


Yes, but colours are now brown and blue


Had cable with old colours and these can be used till April 2006,
thanks for the pointer


Each switch has a L1, L2, L3 on the back of the switch, so it does not
appear this is possible, at first glance?

Run the live to L1 on one gang, and link to L1 on second gang.
Terminate Neutral in single termnal block.
Terminate earth to earthing point
Wire lights off L2, Terminal blockand earth respectivly



Thank you :-)


Any thoughts?

THanks

  #5   Report Post  
Gel
 
Posts: n/a
Default

SEE
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...d_switches.htm



  #6   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:
In my kitchen I am going to install a 2 gang, 1 way switch, to control
main light and under wall units lights seperatly.


As I am in a flat, we don't have ceiling access and lights are wired
with in switch wiring, so I am going to continue down this route for
the new lights.


You mean there's a neutral present inside the switch? This wouldn't be
connected to the switch, but simply looped through to the fitting.

Question is do I just run one 1.0mm cable(red, black, earth) into the
switch to provide the power, then I can have my 2 cables coming out to
switch, one to each set of lights?


If there is already a neutral present, you don't need to provide a new
feed.

Each switch has a L1, L2, L3 on the back of the switch, so it does not
appear this is possible, at first glance?


Those are two way switches which may be wired as one way. Most bought in a
DIY place include instructions on which terminals to use. Older ones were
marked C (common) and L1 and L2. You used C and either L1 or L2. There
doesn't seem to be a standard for those marked L1,2 and 3. But a guide is
thus:-


C
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
L1 L2

The common terminal is usually at the top of a triangle where L1&2 are
closer together than L1 to C etc. So use the 'top' one for one of the
connections, and either L1 or L2. If the switch works the wrong way round
- ie up for off - swop L1 for L2.

--
*Avoid clichés like the plague. (They're old hat.) *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #7   Report Post  
inNeedofHelp
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Gel" wrote in message ups.com...
SEE
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...d_switches.htm


Thanks for the link, had a look at that before, and that is a brill
diagram ... if you have standard loop in lighting, which I don't. No
DIY book I have come across covers my lighting circuit so hence why I
posted here.

Basically each switch has 2 cables, one live from supply, the other to
the switch. This method is not covered in books I have looked at, and
is frequently used in flat rewires as there is no ceiling access.


If any one knows of a book covering this, please point me to it

Dave Jones, answered the question nicely :-) Thanks Dave

Thanks
  #8   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:
Basically each switch has 2 cables, one live from supply, the other to
the switch. This method is not covered in books I have looked at, and
is frequently used in flat rewires as there is no ceiling access.


Common enough way to wire a single light - as say in a cupboard. You can
use this feed for a second light from the same switch box quite happily.
The problem might be that of space inside the backing box.

When doing a basic rewire, I'll often run a triple and earth as the switch
'pair' and connect the blue - suitably sleeved - to the neutral of the
rose. This allows the later installation of lighting sockets at floor
level for things like table lamps.

--
*Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #9   Report Post  
ARWadsworth
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:
Basically each switch has 2 cables, one live from supply, the other to
the switch. This method is not covered in books I have looked at, and
is frequently used in flat rewires as there is no ceiling access.


Common enough way to wire a single light - as say in a cupboard. You can
use this feed for a second light from the same switch box quite happily.
The problem might be that of space inside the backing box.

When doing a basic rewire, I'll often run a triple and earth as the switch
'pair' and connect the blue - suitably sleeved - to the neutral of the
rose. This allows the later installation of lighting sockets at floor
level for things like table lamps.


The perfect way to wire in the wall lights or outside lights when doing a
rewire.

I am glad someone else also uses this method. My NIC inspector did not like
it as he had to test two end of lines for ELI.

Adam


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adding a single light to a dual switch light system Tom Edelbrok Home Repair 9 January 8th 05 08:40 PM
wiring light swiches robert horsey UK diy 4 October 3rd 04 07:38 PM
Landing Light Switch Bodysnatcher UK diy 16 August 3rd 04 11:11 AM
Light wiring problem NOMAN UK diy 20 July 14th 04 09:34 AM
Wiring a 3 way light switch. Mike Hibbert UK diy 8 October 3rd 03 06:51 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:47 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"