I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard. And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

David

"David McNeish" wrote in message
. ..
I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard. And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

David

Could you plate the edges of the existing worktop with stainless steel to make
it last a bit longer ?


---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 13:36:10 GMT, David McNeish
wrote:

I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard. And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

Possibly in the how bloody much range, but these people (and others,
but these are the people who actually own the quarry) do slate
worktops

www.delaboleslate.co.uk

(click on worktops down the left, and then gallery at the top right)

Prices inevitably depend on how thick you want it

Brian

"David McNeish" wrote in message


I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Why not refinsh the rest of the worktops and replace the offending
article with a more suitable timber such as teak or iroko? Or do I mean
aforomosia? Or teak or iroko or afrormosia?

If you want a hand with that, post us some piccies\diagrammes.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

David McNeish wrote:

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard.

Fair enough.


And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

About 20 years is a reasonable timescale with sensible use.


Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

Tiled is an option, but not my choice. IME laminate worktops are the
best solution. They are extremely tough and hard-wearing, a lot more
scratch resistant that most of the alternatives, and very reasonably
priced. Buy good quality laminate worktops - pay around £100-£150 for a
4m length.

--
Grunff

"David McNeish" wrote in message
. ..
I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard. And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

David

Granite?

In article ,
says...

"David McNeish" wrote in message
. ..
I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard. And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

David

Granite?



Concrete? Becoming popular across the pond I believe

Paul Mc Cann

Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...

Concrete? Becoming popular across the pond I believe


Could you faux marble the 'crete with a monolithic top layer of white
cement and atristic streaking with brick dust??

Regards, NT

"N. Thornton" wrote in message
om...
Paul Mc Cann wrote in message
...

Concrete? Becoming popular across the pond I believe


Could you faux marble the 'crete with a monolithic top layer of white
cement and atristic streaking with brick dust??

Regards, NT

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/..._books_1_1/026
-7066392-8922852

A book called "Concrete Countertops: Design, Forms and Finishes for the New
Kitchen and Bathroom" . I bought it for my sister last year as she kept
asking about how to cast concrete counter tops. A very informative read if
the OP wants to consider that route.

On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 13:36:10 GMT, David McNeish
wrote:

I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard.

You're dead right about this! I took extra special care to seal the
cut edges around the aperture for my Ikea ceramic sink. I first
applied a copious amount of white silicone sealant to the sawn faces
of the cut-out in the chipboard, really pushing it into the surface
with a putty knife, then I applied the mastic sealant strip that came
with the sink and pushed the sink in firmly.

Nevertheless, over the last year since the sink was installed, water
has obviously managed to get into the chipboard somehow, as the
worktop is already showing signs of warping and the melamine surface
lifting.

MM

And even if we replaced the
sink with one which is mounted from above the worktop, from past
experience I have doubts about how long the worktop would last before
getting damaged elsewhere.

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Are there any other solutions, priced somewhere between the cheap-and-
nasty and the how-bloody-much options?

David

On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 09:57:55 +0100, Simon wrote:

how to cast concrete counter tops. A very informative read if
the OP wants to consider that route.

What happens to concrete (or marble) if you spill acid on it, like
vinegar, citric fruit juice, etc.

Like Grunff(?) said modern laminate worktops are pretty tough and hard
wearing for most purposes but won't stand up to being around a belfast
sink. Refinish the existing worktop and possibly replace the section
around the sink, though you may find it will clean up.

I can't decide if it's better to apply some really tough varnish to
the area around the sink or to leave it natural or just oiled. Once
the finish gets damaged any mositure will be trapped and go manky.
With a natural or oiled wood it'll dry out.

Granite would be suitable but that may well fall into the "How much!"
category and is HEAVY additional or upgraded suppurt maybe required.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In article ,
says...
On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 13:36:10 GMT, David McNeish
wrote:

I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard.

You're dead right about this! I took extra special care to seal the
cut edges around the aperture for my Ikea ceramic sink. I first
applied a copious amount of white silicone sealant to the sawn faces
of the cut-out in the chipboard, really pushing it into the surface
with a putty knife, then I applied the mastic sealant strip that came
with the sink and pushed the sink in firmly.

Nevertheless, over the last year since the sink was installed, water
has obviously managed to get into the chipboard somehow, as the
worktop is already showing signs of warping and the melamine surface
lifting.

snip

The only answer I can think of to insetting a Belfast sink into a
laminate worktop would be to have the worktop specially made using
'Formica' applied to marine ply core with edges surrounding the sink
finished with the same Formica or possibly a water resistant hard wood
such as teak with the laminate overshooting the hardwood lipping.

The best answer would be to forget the bloody Belfast sink which is only
a style accessory similar the fog lamps on cars.

Are kitchens a working environment anymore or merely a means of arousing
envy amongst frineds ?


Paul Mc Cann

Other materials I've looked at are Corian (expensive), and marble (only
slightly less expensive). And we don't want another solid wood worktop.

Until my parents decided to pay for our granite, we were going to have
Iroko. This wood is absolutely ideal for worktops and Belfast sinks, as it
is naturally water resistant, unlike many other hardwoods. It was the
typical wood used for laboratory counter tops. Indeed, my school's labs had
a wood that looked remarkably similar. It will last much better than the
Beech.

Shop around, you can get lengths of Iroko quite cheap on the Internet.

Christian,

Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
The best answer would be to forget the bloody Belfast sink which is only
a style accessory similar the fog lamps on cars.
I'm sure it is possible to seal the edge with the right varnish (I'd try
Rustins 2 part floor varnish) but it still looks awful, and who wants
jigsawn chipboard exposed and highlighted?

Are kitchens a working environment anymore or merely a means of arousing
envy amongst frineds ?
Isn't everything the latter?

Glass mate - its the only way to go !

Steve...

On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 12:15:57 +0100, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

In article ,
says...
On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 13:36:10 GMT, David McNeish
wrote:

I'm wanting to replace a beech worktop in our kitchen which is past its
best, particularly where it's been wet, like around the Belfast sink
(exposed edges of worktop around the sink, which is mounted beneath the
worktop).

Looking in the Google archives for advice, it seems that laminated
chipboard worktops are a Bad Idea for that style of sink, because of the
ease of water getting into the chipboard.

You're dead right about this! I took extra special care to seal the
cut edges around the aperture for my Ikea ceramic sink. I first
applied a copious amount of white silicone sealant to the sawn faces
of the cut-out in the chipboard, really pushing it into the surface
with a putty knife, then I applied the mastic sealant strip that came
with the sink and pushed the sink in firmly.

Nevertheless, over the last year since the sink was installed, water
has obviously managed to get into the chipboard somehow, as the
worktop is already showing signs of warping and the melamine surface
lifting.

snip

The only answer I can think of to insetting a Belfast sink into a
laminate worktop would be to have the worktop specially made using
'Formica' applied to marine ply core with edges surrounding the sink
finished with the same Formica or possibly a water resistant hard wood
such as teak with the laminate overshooting the hardwood lipping.

The best answer would be to forget the bloody Belfast sink which is only
a style accessory similar the fog lamps on cars.

So? Is that any reason why people should not fit one if they like
them? You could write off just about anything as a "style accessory".
Kelloggs Crunchy Nut has this ridiculous and entirely unnecessary
addition of nuts and honey, obviously a melange for consumers with
more money than sense. Why can't people just eat bog-standard
cornflakes without sugar and be thankful?

MM

"SteveRoche" wrote in message
om...
Glass mate - its the only way to go !


missed the start of this thread but I presume the OP was asking for
suggestions for, er, alternative materials for kitchen worktops :-)

Some folks I know have theirs made of polished concrete (they hired a
concrete polishing machine to do it).

Must say I think it looks pretty sh*te, but I guess it's rugged ;-)

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 20:09:49 +0100, Mike Mitchell
wrote:


So? Is that any reason why people should not fit one if they like
them? You could write off just about anything as a "style accessory".
Kelloggs Crunchy Nut has this ridiculous and entirely unnecessary
addition of nuts and honey, obviously a melange for consumers with
more money than sense. Why can't people just eat bog-standard
cornflakes without sugar and be thankful?
Hi,

I can quite see the attraction of Crunchy Nut Cornflakes but not that
of a Belfast sink, just why are they so desirable? I would prefer 2
round sink bowls myself (and two bowls of Crunchy Nut too!)

cheers,
Pete.

On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 21:48:38 +0100, Pete C
wrote:

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 20:09:49 +0100, Mike Mitchell
wrote:


So? Is that any reason why people should not fit one if they like
them? You could write off just about anything as a "style accessory".
Kelloggs Crunchy Nut has this ridiculous and entirely unnecessary
addition of nuts and honey, obviously a melange for consumers with
more money than sense. Why can't people just eat bog-standard
cornflakes without sugar and be thankful?
Hi,

I can quite see the attraction of Crunchy Nut Cornflakes but not that
of a Belfast sink, just why are they so desirable? I would prefer 2
round sink bowls myself (and two bowls of Crunchy Nut too!)

cheers,
Pete.


I have a large one in the utility room and it's very useful because
of the size for all sorts of things ranging from hand washing of
clothes through to stacking pans before they go in the dishwasher,
etc. etc. It's undermounted beneath a granite worktop with
machined drainage grooves. Works very well.

I then have separate undermounted sinks in the kitchen as well which
are smaller and geared more towards food preparation.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
snip

Hi,

I can quite see the attraction of Crunchy Nut Cornflakes but not that
of a Belfast sink, just why are they so desirable? I would prefer 2
round sink bowls myself (and two bowls of Crunchy Nut too!)

cheers,
Pete.

Pete,

Of COURSE a Belfast sink is desirable - you can get a bucket in it and under
the taps - you can get large bits of engine and other car bits in it to wash
them - how can you wash your wellies without them - very practical but be
blowed to the 'designer style' angle that's just for insecure wimps who have
to follow other peoples ideas G

Andrew Mawson

On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 21:48:38 +0100, Pete C
wrote:

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 20:09:49 +0100, Mike Mitchell
wrote:


So? Is that any reason why people should not fit one if they like
them? You could write off just about anything as a "style accessory".
Kelloggs Crunchy Nut has this ridiculous and entirely unnecessary
addition of nuts and honey, obviously a melange for consumers with
more money than sense. Why can't people just eat bog-standard
cornflakes without sugar and be thankful?
Hi,

I can quite see the attraction of Crunchy Nut Cornflakes but not that
of a Belfast sink, just why are they so desirable? I would prefer 2
round sink bowls myself (and two bowls of Crunchy Nut too!)

Hey, Pete! If you already had 2 round sink bowls, forget about any
other bowls! Just grab that packet (750 g size) of Crunchy Nut and a
litre of ice-cold milk and tuck in, yer at yer aunties! By the way,
everyone should try the Tesco's Honey Nut with cranberry pieces and
yoghurt-flavoured cornflakes. This stuff is darned expensive, but it
is utterly delicious. Especially good when served 50/50 with Crunchy
Nut. I don't think those 2 round sink bowls are going to be enough.
Maybe the Belfast sink after all...

MM

On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 21:48:34 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Mawson wrote:

Of COURSE a Belfast sink is desirable - you can get a bucket in it
and under the taps - you can get large bits of engine and other car
bits in it to wash them - how can you wash your wellies without them
- very practical ...

Agreed though I think I'd get into *SERIOUS* trouble if I tried to
wash large engine parts in any sort of sink...

... but be blowed to the 'designer style' angle that's just for
insecure wimps who have to follow other peoples ideas G

It's the under mounting that is the stupid "designer style" thing. If
you just had it open with an hand operated pump at one end a proper
hard wood drainer the other it would be fine. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On Wed, 16 Jun 2004 08:36:35 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 21:48:34 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Mawson wrote:

Of COURSE a Belfast sink is desirable - you can get a bucket in it
and under the taps - you can get large bits of engine and other car
bits in it to wash them - how can you wash your wellies without them
- very practical ...

Agreed though I think I'd get into *SERIOUS* trouble if I tried to
wash large engine parts in any sort of sink...

... but be blowed to the 'designer style' angle that's just for
insecure wimps who have to follow other peoples ideas G

It's the under mounting that is the stupid "designer style" thing. If
you just had it open with an hand operated pump at one end a proper
hard wood drainer the other it would be fine. B-)

It works very well if you have a granite worktop. In our utility
room, we had some grooves machined in the worktop next to the sink -
same thing with one of the kitchen sinks.
THis means that it will act as a draining area but also as more
worktop area when needed. Anything being disposed off can be swept
easily and directly into the sink without it having to go over a lip
and pieces being caught.

I don't think that I would attempt an undermounted sink with any
other form of worktop - definitely not laminated particleboard and I
think that even natural wood is probably marginal especially since two
sides will be end grain. I suppose one can face those with lipping,
but that is not easy if the inside corners are curved.

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl