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Willi
 
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Default Slate Wall Tiles

I want to put up a wainscoting of slate tile about 3 feet high on one
wall in my TV room.Because of the "look", I'd like to install the tiles
with the edges butting up to each other instead of having a grout line
between.

Can this be done or is the grout necessary for strength or?

Any drawbacks with doing this?

Willi

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The Natural Philosopher
 
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Default

Willi wrote:

I want to put up a wainscoting of slate tile about 3 feet high on one
wall in my TV room.Because of the "look", I'd like to install the tiles
with the edges butting up to each other instead of having a grout line
between.

Can this be done or is the grout necessary for strength or?

Any drawbacks with doing this?


You can, but if its riven slate the edges never quite lie flush with
each other.

Which is why we use 5mm gaps and grout...

You can get dark colored grout though - BAL do lots of interesting colors.


Willi

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andrewpreece
 
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"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Willi wrote:

I want to put up a wainscoting of slate tile about 3 feet high on one
wall in my TV room.Because of the "look", I'd like to install the tiles
with the edges butting up to each other instead of having a grout line
between.

Can this be done or is the grout necessary for strength or?

Any drawbacks with doing this?


You can, but if its riven slate the edges never quite lie flush with
each other.

Which is why we use 5mm gaps and grout...

You can get dark colored grout though - BAL do lots of interesting colors.


Willi


I used ceramic tile adhesive and grout from Wickes for my slate tiles (
grey, so a good match ).
Whilst I haven't butted them, for the reasons the previous poster gives,
even if I did I would be
inclined to put some grout in the remaining gap(s), otherwise you'll
inevitably get gaps even if you
butt them together: slates are simply not machined accurately enough to butt
together with invisible joins. On the same note, they vary in thickness too.
You will have to find the thickest slate in the batch, start with that one
and then bring all the other slates up to that level by using appropriate
amounts of adhesive. Slates also are no necessarily flat, nor constant in
thickness either, so if you're aiming for a nearly-dead flat look you have
to be very careful.

Andy.


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Willi
 
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andrewpreece wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Willi wrote:


I want to put up a wainscoting of slate tile about 3 feet high on one
wall in my TV room.Because of the "look", I'd like to install the tiles
with the edges butting up to each other instead of having a grout line
between.

Can this be done or is the grout necessary for strength or?

Any drawbacks with doing this?


You can, but if its riven slate the edges never quite lie flush with
each other.

Which is why we use 5mm gaps and grout...

You can get dark colored grout though - BAL do lots of interesting colors.



Willi



I used ceramic tile adhesive and grout from Wickes for my slate tiles (
grey, so a good match ).
Whilst I haven't butted them, for the reasons the previous poster gives,
even if I did I would be
inclined to put some grout in the remaining gap(s), otherwise you'll
inevitably get gaps even if you
butt them together: slates are simply not machined accurately enough to butt
together with invisible joins. On the same note, they vary in thickness too.
You will have to find the thickest slate in the batch, start with that one
and then bring all the other slates up to that level by using appropriate
amounts of adhesive. Slates also are no necessarily flat, nor constant in
thickness either, so if you're aiming for a nearly-dead flat look you have
to be very careful.

Andy.




I like the difference in thickness which will result in an uneven look.
I want the finished project to look somewhat like a "more finished"
field wall. Similar to this:

http://www.decotile.ca/Slate/

but made up with narrower oblong tiles.

I plan on cutting the 12X12 tiles into thirds and staggering the joints
as I work up the wall. From your guys' suggestions, I'll probably get
some grout that closely matches the main color of the tiles and use it
to fill in any gaps (although when laying them out I see little or no
gaps).

Another question I forgot to ask:

should I use a mortar adhesive like what is used on floor applications
or a different product?

Willi

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Jonathan Pearson
 
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Willi wrote:

I like the difference in thickness which will result in an uneven
look. I want the finished project to look somewhat like a "more
finished" field wall. Similar to this:

http://www.decotile.ca/Slate/

but made up with narrower oblong tiles.

I plan on cutting the 12X12 tiles into thirds and staggering the
joints as I work up the wall. From your guys' suggestions, I'll
probably get some grout that closely matches the main color of the
tiles and use it to fill in any gaps (although when laying them out I
see little or no gaps).

Another question I forgot to ask:

should I use a mortar adhesive like what is used on floor applications
or a different product?

Willi


If you are in the Southern England, I'd suggest going to Stonell to get some
ideas , they are the specialists and the slates are not much more than what
its costs from your local wickes / B&Q - this is especially important if you
plan to DIY it as you need specialist products (lindofin?) to seal the tiles
even before you stick them down - other wise the grout will stain the tiles,
also you need to remove excess grout immediately after applied otherwise
you'll spend weeks trying removing it.

Jon




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The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Willi wrote:

I like the difference in thickness which will result in an uneven look.
I want the finished project to look somewhat like a "more finished"
field wall. Similar to this:

http://www.decotile.ca/Slate/

but made up with narrower oblong tiles.


That is doable, if that is what you want.


I plan on cutting the 12X12 tiles into thirds and staggering the joints
as I work up the wall. From your guys' suggestions, I'll probably get
some grout that closely matches the main color of the tiles and use it
to fill in any gaps (although when laying them out I see little or no
gaps).

Another question I forgot to ask:

should I use a mortar adhesive like what is used on floor applications
or a different product?


I think you will have better results with a GOOD wall tile adhesive. I
have used both, and to be honest the evostik range of waterproof
adheisves are better for walls than the floor grade cements

The issue is walking. On floors, any gaps under the tiles will
eventually lead to loose tiles, and you may also need a bit of flex. On
walls the stresses are far far lower, and you really want to go for a
fast grab and possibly slightly rubbery adhesive - especially over
studowork.

Slicing slates with a diamond cutter is fairly easy: watch out for the
last smidegon chipping out. I made a lot of skirting tiles for the
slated are of the house that way. And some thin strips of dado line
decoration in a tiled bathroom. Looks OK.

e

Willi

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The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Jonathan Pearson wrote:

Willi wrote:

I like the difference in thickness which will result in an uneven
look. I want the finished project to look somewhat like a "more
finished" field wall. Similar to this:

http://www.decotile.ca/Slate/

but made up with narrower oblong tiles.

I plan on cutting the 12X12 tiles into thirds and staggering the
joints as I work up the wall. From your guys' suggestions, I'll
probably get some grout that closely matches the main color of the
tiles and use it to fill in any gaps (although when laying them out I
see little or no gaps).

Another question I forgot to ask:

should I use a mortar adhesive like what is used on floor applications
or a different product?

Willi



If you are in the Southern England, I'd suggest going to Stonell to get some
ideas , they are the specialists and the slates are not much more than what
its costs from your local wickes / B&Q - this is especially important if you
plan to DIY it as you need specialist products (lindofin?) to seal the tiles
even before you stick them down - other wise the grout will stain the tiles,
also you need to remove excess grout immediately after applied otherwise
you'll spend weeks trying removing it.

Jon


I got excellent slate around 25 a square meter from Smith and Wareham's
in Bury St Edmunds - Montauk. I think they have a web site.
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