I want to have a go at spray painting some small MDF necklace stands in a
gloss black colour.

I have a compressor and a spray gun that came as part of the air nailer
package and as I have never used it I want to give it a try.

What kind out paint do I need to buy? Can I use ordinary household black
gloss thinned down with something or do I need something of a more
specialist nature.

Thanks for any pointers

Sean

Sean Delere wrote:

I want to have a go at spray painting some small MDF necklace stands in a
gloss black colour.

I have a compressor and a spray gun that came as part of the air nailer
package and as I have never used it I want to give it a try.

What kind out paint do I need to buy? Can I use ordinary household black
gloss thinned down with something or do I need something of a more
specialist nature.

Thanks for any pointers

Sean


I would denititely start with a decent acrylic wood primer - water based.

But for top coat I wuld take it to a car body shop.

Or get some car spray paints. You need to test to ensure teh primer and
other coats don't react tho.

The very best result ever I have seen were on twop pack car paints -
even if they dribble, they set to rock hardness and you can rub down and
polish out teh odd drip.

They are VERY nasty to spray without mask and booth tho.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Sean Delere wrote:

I want to have a go at spray painting some small MDF necklace stands in
a
gloss black colour.

I have a compressor and a spray gun that came as part of the air nailer
package and as I have never used it I want to give it a try.

What kind out paint do I need to buy? Can I use ordinary household black
gloss thinned down with something or do I need something of a more
specialist nature.

Thanks for any pointers

Sean


I would denititely start with a decent acrylic wood primer - water based.

But for top coat I wuld take it to a car body shop.

Or get some car spray paints. You need to test to ensure teh primer and
other coats don't react tho.

The very best result ever I have seen were on twop pack car paints -
even if they dribble, they set to rock hardness and you can rub down and
polish out teh odd drip.

They are VERY nasty to spray without mask and booth tho.

I used solvent based car paint from my local car parts dealer.. easy to work
with and produced great results after a few practice runs that is... it also
has the added benefit that it rubs down well and polishes up well.
I used standard car primer and standard car paint.. you won't get two pack
paint without a licence as it can kill.
Steve
www.ukspeedtraps.co.uk

On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 08:28:32 +0000 (UTC), "Sean Delere"
wrote:

What kind out paint do I need to buy?

Anything you like, so long as it's not water based. Water-based
directly onto the surface of MDF will raise fibres. Seal it with a
real MDF primer first, or even shellac.
--
Smert' spamionam

I used solvent based car paint from my local car parts dealer.. easy to
work
with and produced great results after a few practice runs that is... it
also
has the added benefit that it rubs down well and polishes up well.
I used standard car primer and standard car paint.. you won't get two pack
paint without a licence as it can kill.

Would my local Halfords be a good place to start or somewhere more
specialist?

Anything you like, so long as it's not water based. Water-based
directly onto the surface of MDF will raise fibres. Seal it with a
real MDF primer first, or even shellac.

I wonder if I could spray MDF sealer rather than paint it on. The Rustins
stuff I use is really thin already.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The very best result ever I have seen were on twop pack car paints -
even if they dribble, they set to rock hardness and you can rub down and
polish out teh odd drip.

Easier for home use is cellulose - it also can be polished after
spraying. It's getting difficult to obtain, though - you'd need a
specialist car paint supplier.

They are VERY nasty to spray without mask and booth tho.

Yup - and you've got to be careful it doesn't set in the gun, and any
mixed and not used has to be discarded. Cellulose may be kept - even after
thinning - in an airtight tin.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Try JAPLAC - I don't know if you can spray it but for a tugh, durable
high gloss finish it's great.

Check it out at: http://www.international-paints.co.u...0&surfaceid=20


Kev


"Sean Delere" wrote in message ...
Anything you like, so long as it's not water based. Water-based
directly onto the surface of MDF will raise fibres. Seal it with a
real MDF primer first, or even shellac.

I wonder if I could spray MDF sealer rather than paint it on. The Rustins
stuff I use is really thin already.

"Sean Delere" wrote in message


Anything you like, so long as it's not water based. Water-based
directly onto the surface of MDF will raise fibres. Seal it with a
real MDF primer first, or even shellac.

I wonder if I could spray MDF sealer rather than paint it on. The Rustins
stuff I use is really thin already.

Getting the hang of it will be the first hurdle. Getting the settings
correct will be the next and finally spraying into corners and crevices.

Go past the object with the gun don't go over the same place twice until
it has dried and cover it as quickly and evenly as you can. It won't be
so bad with a grey or whatever undercoat as you can brush any runs out.

Getting the amount of aperture in the nozzle just right is a matter of
trial and error and a lot depends on the viscosity. But you can spray
anything from water to fibreglass -even concrete. As you would expect
though, there are varieties of spray guns and there are varieties of
solvents.

Whilst you might use the same solvent for acrylic that you
would for concrete, several varieties of car paint will turn into a
useless mess if you use solvent for one with the other.

I would get the Woolies tin of paint and some turps while you are on the
steep side of the learning curve. Have some fun with your new toy.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

"Huge" wrote in message
...
Was I the only one who wondered how you'd get the MDF in the
spraygun?


Nah, just make sure you stir it thoroughly and it should pour in easily
enough...



--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

On 10 Jun 2004 18:13:18 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Was I the only one who wondered how you'd get the MDF in the
spraygun?

Just let it get a bit damp first.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message


On 10 Jun 2004 18:13:18 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Was I the only one who wondered how you'd get the MDF in the
spraygun?

Just let it get a bit damp first.

For clarity: I was refering to spraying the resin and chopped glass onto
molds and the cement that they use for making those conrete rings
beloved of civil engineers everywhere, are sprayed onto their molds too.
So tell me; how is the saw-dust that is turned into MDF, applied to the
presses?


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:08a84096eba6cf00c47ab026916e750f.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message


On 10 Jun 2004 18:13:18 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Was I the only one who wondered how you'd get the MDF in the
spraygun?

Just let it get a bit damp first.

For clarity: I was refering to spraying the resin and chopped glass onto
molds and the cement that they use for making those conrete rings
beloved of civil engineers everywhere, are sprayed onto their molds too.

we know :-)

So tell me; how is the saw-dust that is turned into MDF, applied to the
presses?


Dunno that it is sprayed. Next time I talk with a particular friend I'll
ask - he's been to a plant that makes MDF (he sells industrial controls, I
suspect that they were one of his customers). Apparently it's quite a thing
to see this stuff being made - starts off 30cm + thick before going through
the presses.


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:08a84096eba6cf00c47ab026916e750f.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message


On 10 Jun 2004 18:13:18 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Was I the only one who wondered how you'd get the MDF in the
spraygun?

Just let it get a bit damp first.

For clarity: I was refering to spraying the resin and chopped glass onto
molds and the cement that they use for making those conrete rings
beloved of civil engineers everywhere, are sprayed onto their molds too.
So tell me; how is the saw-dust that is turned into MDF, applied to the
presses?


I don't know whether this is typical, but it is a description of end-to-end
process for MDF production.

http://sres.anu.edu.au/associated/fp...nufacture.html

so the matt isn't sprayed as such, but fibres dropped and allowed to settle
to the desired thickness. 23cm - 69cm thick! Pressing of 330seconds for
16mm board means it isn't a particularly quick process but the size of the
presses is pretty impressive - anything up to 2m x 20m !!!

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 22:07:20 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

So tell me; how is the saw-dust that is turned into MDF, applied to the
presses?

Read the last Fine Woodworking.

--
Smert' spamionam