Hi

My Vokera Maxin 24e, a combi, is leaking water. I first noticed it a
few weeks back when it was just a drop or two a minute - now it's so
bad i've had to switch it off, and stop the CW supply. The system has
lost all pressure too.

The leak is coming from near a solid brass disc-shape looking part,
that has six bolts holding it together. Immediately next to this (and
feeding into it) is an approx 22mm brass pipe with 4 bolts, spaced
equally apart, being screwed in towards the centre of the pipe. Two of
these bolts are missing and the leak is coming from one of the missing
bolt holes.

The boiler has been in the house when we moved in about 9 mths ago, and
hasn't been tampered with during our time.

Pl do forgive the poor description of the components. I have actually
managed to install a combi boiler once, but it was relatively easy and
i never even had to look at the parts inside!

Any assistance will be much appreciated.

thanks

Daljit

Sounds like the diverter valve. These are a nightmare. I changed one on an Ariston Friday night, 1/2 an hour to change the part 2 hours to fix all consequential leaks, wish I'd never started the job.

Only thing you can do is shut of flow and return, shut off cw. crack the joints where the leaks are, catch the water, if you can get an o ring/wahser kit for it fit that, unlikely that you can, so get it all dry and re-assemble with silicone sealer and leave it over night before refilling.

Good luck.

Some combis are made to leak.

Thanks for your tip Paul. A diverter valve makes sense - the leaking
part is connected to the two boiler outputs - HW and flow.

I've just checked on the web and found a picture of a Potterton
diverter valve and i'm positive that this is the part i need (only for
a Vokera!). If anyone knows where i might find this, would be
appreciated. Will phone round local suppliers tomorrow.

Incidentally, i was mistaken in my original post. The system had lost
all pressure, but once i filled it up again, it stayed filled. This
discovery means i can actually use the heating for short periods as
long as i have a bucket beneath to catch the trickle of water.

Certainly doesn't look an easy part to replace - seems to be connected
to half a dozen different pipes!

Daljit

Hi Daljit

I am unable to help you with your problem. However, I think I have the same
problem with my Vokera boiler. Please let us know how you resolved this.

Best regards

David

If it's just a leak you don't need a new diverter valve (typical cost £80) you need the washer/o ring kit. Though this is usually unobtainium. Some diverter valve replacements include the kit but some don't.

You can get the real macoy from HRPC, or you can get cheap supplies from http://www.ezypart.co.uk/index.

This is a nightmare job for the uninitiated and an nasty one for those of us trained to do it. Round here we charge £100 labour for that job and some days we wish we hadn't started it.

Usually when they go wrong it's only the diaphragm, but the stupid manufacturers build them in such away you have to remove the diverter valve (in most cases) to get at the diaphragm.

You have to isolate flow and return and cold feed. Open blow off valve manually to drain boiler, dump the remainder on the floor around boiler while you undo nuts and it gurgles out, catch what you can but have a few towels ready. If yours has o ring seals and you can't find replacements sometimes high temperature silicon grease might be sufficient. Where there are fibre washers you really need to find new ones, but if you ca

If it's just a leak you don't need a new diverter valve (typical cost £80) you need the washer/o ring kit. Though this is usually unobtainium. Some diverter valve replacements include the kit but some don't.

You can get the real macoy from HRPC, or you can get cheap supplies from http://www.ezypart.co.uk/index.

This is a nightmare job for the uninitiated and an nasty one for those of us trained to do it. Round here we charge £100 labour for that job and some days we wish we hadn't started it.

Usually when they go wrong it's only the diaphragm, but the stupid manufacturers build them in such away you have to remove the diverter valve (in most cases) to get at the diaphragm.

You have to isolate flow and return and cold feed. Open blow off valve manually to drain boiler, dump the remainder on the floor around boiler while you undo nuts and it gurgles out, catch what you can but have a few towels ready. If yours has o ring seals and you can't find replacements sometimes high temperature silicon grease might be sufficient. Where there are fibre washers you really need to find new ones, but if you can't you could try making gromets with ptfe (wrap it around finger). Or the time honoured cure all boss white and hemp.

effing good luck you'll need it!

Just spoke to the technical dept on Vokera's customer helpline and
they've confirmed that i need a new o ring (part number 0716). Curzon
(who do on-line sales at http://www.curzoncare.co.uk) has an outlet
close by so i'll pick one up tomorrow morning before work.

Engineer on the phone said that if i remove the two bolts which screw
towards the centre, beside the part he called the manifold (the disc
shape thing), it should separate from the manifold and i should see the
o ring. Apparently this pipe/valve i am loosening is only meant to
have two bolts in it, even although it has threaded holes for four.

Cheers for your advice & tips Paul about replacing the o ring. By the
sounds of it, i won't be able to get it finished without help - however
will give it a go, and make sure i have hi-temp sealant at the ready.

Probably give it a go tomorrow night.

cheers

Daljit

If you procure the correct or ing you just need a lubricant when you assemble it, we use spit. in my post I mentioned ht silicone grease, that was not instead of an o ring but to accompany reassembly of the existing o ring. New o rings don't require anything but a small amount of lubricant (spit) to ensure they are not snagged on assembly.

Sounds like you could manage it alright. remember to open up all three isolations after you've done job, refiull from filling loop, turn off gas valve, run boiler to clear air locks in heat exchanger, pressing reset as required run it let it rest run it let it rest etc etc until no more air sounds. Turn on gas valve, let it light, Bob's yer uncle.

Hi

Success!

Fitted the o ring last night without any problem. Whole thing took
less than 45 mins to do (inc emptying out the cupboard to get into the
boiler!). Manifold (or diaphragm?) came away easily when i removed the
two bolts, and i just slipped the (tiny) o ring over the 4-5mm pin
thing sticking out (couldn't see any other place for it to fit).
Didn't need to use the sealant as first re-assmebly seemed to work. CW
supply and boiler was switched on following repair - no evidence of any
leaks this morning.

Cheers for you help, Paul.

Daljit