"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
.. .
After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats another
story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when lifted
vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now just
need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its
30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well spent),
but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with my
other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy loose
?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby



Have you undone the locking tab of the nut ? It should be a metal strip folded up
around part of the edge on the nut. Are you tuning it the right way ?


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After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats another
story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when lifted
vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now just
need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its
30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well spent),
but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with my
other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy loose
?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby

On Fri, 21 May 2004 10:21:00 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

any tips on getting this bad boy loose
?!?!

What you have to do is hold on to the pulley, whilst giving the
breaker bar, (I assume you're using one of those and not a ratchet
based thing), a good braying with a solid object. If you have a helper
it's a lot easier.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...

"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
.. .
After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats
another
story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when
lifted
vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now
just
need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its
30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well
spent),
but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with
my
other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy
loose
?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby



Have you undone the locking tab of the nut ? It should be a metal strip
folded up
around part of the edge on the nut. Are you tuning it the right way ?


---
http://www.basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.688 / Virus Database: 449 - Release Date: 18/05/04


Nope, no locking tab. I am assuming the default lefty loosy, righty tighty
here, cant quite see the thread, its not a reverse thread is it ?

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 21 May 2004 10:21:00 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

any tips on getting this bad boy loose
?!?!

What you have to do is hold on to the pulley, whilst giving the
breaker bar, (I assume you're using one of those and not a ratchet
based thing), a good braying with a solid object. If you have a helper
it's a lot easier.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

Ok, got the breaker bar bit (I was using a rachet but I have a breaker bar).
But the braying ? I have to hold a solid object aloft and shout at the
breaker bar ?!

If you mean wallop, I'll give it a go, its just holding the (very sharp !)
pully and stopping it rotating, do engineers have a "special tool" to do
this ?

Many thanks for replying.

Toby

"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
...
"BigWallop" wrote in message
...

"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
.. .
After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats
another
story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when
lifted
vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now
just
need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its
30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well
spent),
but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with
my
other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy
loose
?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby



Have you undone the locking tab of the nut ? It should be a metal strip
folded up
around part of the edge on the nut. Are you tuning it the right way ?


Nope, no locking tab. I am assuming the default lefty loosy, righty tighty
here, cant quite see the thread, its not a reverse thread is it ?



It depends on the machine now a days. Can you run a finger nail around an exposed part of
the thread. You should feel your finger being drawn in or pushed away depending on the
turn direction.

Is the nut self locking ? Looking at the nut, does it have a plastic insert in the thread
?


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"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
...
"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 21 May 2004 10:21:00 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

any tips on getting this bad boy loose
?!?!

What you have to do is hold on to the pulley, whilst giving the
breaker bar, (I assume you're using one of those and not a ratchet
based thing), a good braying with a solid object. If you have a helper
it's a lot easier.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

Ok, got the breaker bar bit (I was using a rachet but I have a breaker bar).
But the braying ? I have to hold a solid object aloft and shout at the
breaker bar ?!

If you mean wallop, I'll give it a go, its just holding the (very sharp !)
pully and stopping it rotating, do engineers have a "special tool" to do
this ?


Yes, it's called the handle of a hammer, or the shaft of a big spanner, jammed between the
moulding of the outer drum and the pulley wheel.


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On Fri, 21 May 2004 15:29:20 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

Ok, got the breaker bar bit (I was using a rachet but I have a breaker bar).
But the braying ? I have to hold a solid object aloft and shout at the
breaker bar ?!

If you mean wallop,

Yep, that's the one!

I'll give it a go, its just holding the (very sharp !)
pully and stopping it rotating, do engineers have a "special tool" to do
this ?

A block of wood wedged in the right place can do the job. I usually
carry a 2' piece of 2"x2" and a metal bar in when doing this job.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

On Fri, 21 May 2004 14:26:04 UTC, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
wrote:

Nope, no locking tab. I am assuming the default lefty loosy, righty tighty
here, cant quite see the thread, its not a reverse thread is it ?

I carved a piece of softwood so that it was narrower at one end than the
other, making a wedge that fitted between two of the pulley spokes and
into a recess in the back of the tub. My hotpoint has a left hand thread
but yours may differ.

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
.. .
After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats another
story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when
lifted
vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now just
need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its
30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well
spent),
but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with my
other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy
loose
?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby



Thanks BigWallop and Lurch for the advice, it worked in the end ...

I used a 30cm bar connected to 30mm socket, jammed a hammer handle between
drum and pulley. But no matter how much a walloped it no go. Reflecting back
on my physics lessons, I ended up using half the metal tubing from my Vax
hoover as an extender bar !! Nut turned real easy, didnt need to wallop it.
I remember having to use same method for front hub on my Honda when I
replaced the disc cylinders ...

Now, I would have thought the pulley wheel would just slide off the rear
bolt, or I could pull the inner drum out. Jeez this thing must be welded ! I
know my bearings have seezed but ...

I've tried walloping the rear bolt, tried pulling and jolting inner drum but
no joy.

?

"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
.. .
"Technical I.T. Ltd" wrote in message
.. .
After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats
another
story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when
lifted
vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now
just
need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its
30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well
spent),
but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with
my
other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy
loose
?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby



Thanks BigWallop and Lurch for the advice, it worked in the end ...

I used a 30cm bar connected to 30mm socket, jammed a hammer handle between
drum and pulley. But no matter how much a walloped it no go. Reflecting
back
on my physics lessons, I ended up using half the metal tubing from my Vax
hoover as an extender bar !! Nut turned real easy, didnt need to wallop
it.
I remember having to use same method for front hub on my Honda when I
replaced the disc cylinders ...

Now, I would have thought the pulley wheel would just slide off the rear
bolt, or I could pull the inner drum out. Jeez this thing must be welded !
I
know my bearings have seezed but ...

I've tried walloping the rear bolt, tried pulling and jolting inner drum
but
no joy.

?

Ah, the pulley wheel unscrews ...

Many thanks for the help

Toby

On Mon, 24 May 2004 10:31:37 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:


Ah, the pulley wheel unscrews ...

I was about to say that!

Many thanks for the help

Glad you've sorted it.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

On Wed, 26 May 2004 16:38:43 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

The replacement bearings arrived today. Looks like I've left the outer ring
of the rear bearing in the drum. Now these definately dont unscrew ! Any
tool to remove this chappy ? I've tried hammering out fron inside drum with
a screwdriver. Seem to need something more to shift it ...

Any ideas ?

Now you're screwed, I hate it when that happens! We've been known to
use a variety of homemade tools to remove those, there's not really a
tool you can buy that will just 'pull it out'. Various combinations of
lump hammers, bars, washers, sockets, bearing pullers, chisels and
anything else that might do the job are what you need!

BTW the other half suggested soaking the plastic in hot water. Well the
ideas sound, just not practical really !

Nope, think about it, if that worked then every time the tub filled
with hot water the bearings would fall out. Just tell her stick to the
washing up!
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 May 2004 10:31:37 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd"

strung together this:


Ah, the pulley wheel unscrews ...

I was about to say that!

Many thanks for the help

Glad you've sorted it.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Ah, spoke too soon ...

The replacement bearings arrived today. Looks like I've left the outer ring
of the rear bearing in the drum. Now these definately dont unscrew ! Any
tool to remove this chappy ? I've tried hammering out fron inside drum with
a screwdriver. Seem to need something more to shift it ...

Any ideas ?

BTW the other half suggested soaking the plastic in hot water. Well the
ideas sound, just not practical really !

On Wed, 26 May 2004 15:38:43 UTC, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
wrote:

The replacement bearings arrived today. Looks like I've left the outer ring
of the rear bearing in the drum. Now these definately dont unscrew ! Any
tool to remove this chappy ? I've tried hammering out fron inside drum with
a screwdriver. Seem to need something more to shift it ...

It depends whether (like mine) there is a ridge at the rear of the
bearing that it seats against. And if that ridge covers the whole of the
outer ring. I used a cold chisel and a club hammer (following advice on
here).

I guess a hairdryer might heat up the drum a bit...

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

Now you're screwed, I hate it when that happens! We've been known to
use a variety of homemade tools to remove those, there's not really a
tool you can buy that will just 'pull it out'. Various combinations of
lump hammers, bars, washers, sockets, bearing pullers, chisels and
anything else that might do the job are what you need!

Tried most of those, though a socket ... good idea ...

On the subject of bearing pullers, and cant see how it works ...

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=13663

Surely the central bit needs to push against something when its screwed
up/down to pull the bearing out ?

On Wed, 26 May 2004 17:39:11 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

Now you're screwed, I hate it when that happens! We've been known to
use a variety of homemade tools to remove those, there's not really a
tool you can buy that will just 'pull it out'. Various combinations of
lump hammers, bars, washers, sockets, bearing pullers, chisels and
anything else that might do the job are what you need!

Tried most of those, though a socket ... good idea ...

Make sure it's an old one, or one that you don't want anymore,
surprisingly thrashing them with a lump hammer makes them a bit odd
shapewise!

On the subject of bearing pullers, and cant see how it works ...

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=13663

Surely the central bit needs to push against something when its screwed
up/down to pull the bearing out ?

Yes, well, it's a new use of the tool! What you do, (or rather what I
did once), is\was to turn the llegs so they are faciing outwards, then
wedge them in the ring of the outer bearing. Now tighten up the
bearing pullers so the centre nut is pushing the legs into the
bearings groove. Now thrash it with a lump hammer and pointy thing!
When you've retrieved all the bits from the other side of the back
garden a few times when the pullers have slipped out you might just
loosen it. When it's out you'll also find that your chisels blunt and
the pullers are totally knackered.

(On another note to the whole group, I'm getting fed up of deleting
stray letters in my recent posts, I've just set up a new machine and
the kkeyboard just decides how many letters it wants on the screen,
not me! I'll get a new keyboard next time I'm out, just bear with me.)
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Make sure it's an old one, or one that you don't want anymore,
surprisingly thrashing them with a lump hammer makes them a bit odd
shapewise!

It did it, long reach socket (spark plug type). After about 10 hits the
inner ring flew clean across the kitchen !!! It really is strange how the
right tool and that. Spent over an hour with a screwdriver and hammer ...

(On another note to the whole group, I'm getting fed up of deleting
stray letters in my recent posts, I've just set up a new machine and
the kkeyboard just decides how many letters it wants on the screen,
not me! I'll get a new keyboard next time I'm out, just bear with me.)

Ah, now that I can help with. Assuming your keyboard hasnt had spillage of
some kind (tea/coffee), a good shake dissloges sticky stuff (personally I
cant turn down a good chelsea bun, you woudnt beleive the amount of sticky
sugar I get out my keyboard !). Failing that, chuck it, after all a bog
standard keyboard can set you back a Pavaroti these days.

Lastly (promise), I've got some 20/50 and I've oiled the inside of the drum
and inner drum shaft (hopefully trying to avoid doing this in 2 years time
again). Should I soak the NEW bearings in oil overnight or are they "ready
to go" ?

Finally an observation, my external bearing actually came apart, I found the
balls actually in the channel, which is why all I had left was the outer
ring of the bearing. Interestingly enough the ball race of the outer bearing
(what the balls are held by) is made of plastic yet the inner bearing ball
race is made of metal ! Hmm ...

On Wed, 26 May 2004 18:32:41 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
strung together this:

It did it, long reach socket (spark plug type). After about 10 hits the
inner ring flew clean across the kitchen !!! It really is strange how the
right tool and that. Spent over an hour with a screwdriver and hammer ...

Ingenuity, that's all it takes!

Assuming your keyboard hasnt had spillage of
some kind (tea/coffee),

And anything else that's likely to be in it, ISTR one of the kids
wanging iit out of the front door in a muddy puddle, but I've got that
many keyboards I couldn't remember if it was this one, I'm beginning
to think it is!I'm beginning to think it is! Unfortunately it's the
only one with a PS2 plug and I can't find any adaptors!

chuck it, after all a bog
standard keyboard can set you back a Pavaroti these days.

Yep, I''ve got a few nice keyboards but they're all in Sheffield, I'll
have to pick one up next time I'm passing!

Lastly (promise), I've got some 20/50 and I've oiled the inside of the drum
and inner drum shaft (hopefully trying to avoid doing this in 2 years time
again). Should I soak the NEW bearings in oil overnight or are they "ready
to go" ?

Nope, I wouldn't oil any of the bearings as the whole point of them is
that the inner part of the bearings spin and the outer parts don't!
Oil doesn't help with the staying of the outer bit of the plan.
Oiling the shaft isn't always a good idea as it can end up in the
wash, now you know how to do it it won't take you long next time!
And another thing, if you stop overloading the drum it will last a lot
longer than 2-3 years!
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

On Wed, 26 May 2004 17:32:41 UTC, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
wrote:

Lastly (promise), I've got some 20/50 and I've oiled the inside of the drum
and inner drum shaft (hopefully trying to avoid doing this in 2 years time
again). Should I soak the NEW bearings in oil overnight or are they "ready
to go" ?

The directions I got said to soak the spider shaft (what you call the
inner drum shaft) in oil where it contacts the inner race of the bearing
(you ARE using a new shaft, aren't you?). And I also assume you have a
new seal for the front?

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

The directions I got said to soak the spider shaft (what you call the
inner drum shaft) in oil where it contacts the inner race of the bearing
(you ARE using a new shaft, aren't you?). And I also assume you have a
new seal for the front?

I am using a new front seal, but was unaware of the required new shaft, the
one I have is slightly rusty (must say after 8 years very little) and seems
fine. Cant seem to find it on the Hotpoint spares site
(www.theservicecentre.co.uk/Service/fr_shop.html), whats its part number,
where could I get one ?

Now I'm worried ...

On Thu, 27 May 2004 13:03:08 UTC, "Technical I.T. Ltd"
wrote:

I am using a new front seal, but was unaware of the required new shaft, the
one I have is slightly rusty (must say after 8 years very little) and seems
fine. Cant seem to find it on the Hotpoint spares site
(www.theservicecentre.co.uk/Service/fr_shop.html), whats its part number,
where could I get one ?

Well, it wasn't that expensive so I got the two... the bearing surface
is sintered and that's the bit to soak. I was blowed if I was going to
skimp and then have to do it again!

The normal name is 'spider' - it's the three brackets and shaft
assembly, all in one.

CPC do the parts...I *think* - but check with them that you want CPC
part no WG30270066 which is 11.60 plus VAT. Or the entire spider/bearing
kit is under 15 quid. Genuine parts. Phone number is 08701 20 25 30.

(later)

OK, I just looked at the site you mentioned. It's the 'drum support
assembly' and has the same Hotpoint part number as the one abive
(16000066). That's for the first WM64 variant listed, but I think it
fits all of them, and in fact most Hotpoints prior to the WMA series.
But they want 20.69 plus VAT!

Might as well go to CPC...P&P will be 2.95 I think, and it'll arrive
tomorrow with luch (8.99 P&P to be sure, if you want it for the
weekend).

--
Bob Eager

On Thu, 27 May 2004 13:12:18 UTC, "Bob Eager" wrote:

Oops...correction follows...

CPC do the parts...I *think* - but check with them that you want CPC
part no WG30270066 which is 11.60 plus VAT. Or the entire spider/bearing
kit is under 15 quid. Genuine parts. Phone number is 08701 20 25 30.

(later)

OK, I just looked at the site you mentioned. It's the 'drum support
assembly' and has the same Hotpoint part number as the one abive
(16000066).

1600066 - that's the Hotpoint number, CPC stock no. WG30270066

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 May 2004 13:12:18 UTC, "Bob Eager" wrote:

Oops...correction follows...

CPC do the parts...I *think* - but check with them that you want CPC
part no WG30270066 which is 11.60 plus VAT. Or the entire spider/bearing
kit is under 15 quid. Genuine parts. Phone number is 08701 20 25 30.

(later)

OK, I just looked at the site you mentioned. It's the 'drum support
assembly' and has the same Hotpoint part number as the one abive
(16000066).

1600066 - that's the Hotpoint number, CPC stock no. WG30270066

--
Bob Eager


Ah, I see ! Thanks for the help. Seeings that I've got this far dismantling
it I figure like you I dont particularly want to skimp and have to do it
again sometime soon ...