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Colin Green
 
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Default IKEA kitchen wall units

I'm measuring up for a new kitchen and see that IKEA have some tall
(92cm) wall units. I might be able to squeeze these in but I was
wondering whether it's a good idea to fit them right against the
ceiling or to leave a bit of a gap. I would guess you need some gap to
allow the doors to open freely, however I was thinking a very small
gap might trap a lot of dust, dead bugs etc. Perhaps closing the gap
with some kind of strip and sealing it off is the answer? (The ceiling
is quite uneven BTW).

Another factor is how much space I have between the work surface and
the wall units. Right now this is 50cm which seems about right,
however the IKEA floor units are listed as being 86cm high(same as my
existing), but they also state that legs are not provided. Does anyone
know if the legs are included in this height? The IKEA plastic legs
can apparently be adjusted between 12-18cm, so does this mean my
actual worktop height is 98-104cm?(+ a bit for depth of the kitchen
surface) - note that the metal legs they sell are even longer.

If the work surface is 98cm+ then it might be sensible to move the
wall units up a touch, but this means I'll have to go for the 72cm
high ones instead.

Thanks in advance,

Colin.
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Tony Bryer
 
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In article ,
Colin Green wrote:
If the work surface is 98cm+ then it might be sensible to move
the wall units up a touch, but this means I'll have to go for
the 72cm high ones instead.


Standard work surface height is 90cm - which would be your 86cm
units + 4cm (40mm) worktop. I strongly suspect that the 86cm is
with legs attached and adjusted to mid-height

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Tony Eva
 
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Colin Green wrote:
Does anyone
know if the legs are included in this height?


Base cabinets are 70cm high, legs are nominally 16cm, worktop is 4cm
thick = 90cm total floor to worktop surface.

--
Tony
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chris French
 
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In message , Colin
Green writes
I'm measuring up for a new kitchen and see that IKEA have some tall
(92cm) wall units. I might be able to squeeze these in but I was
wondering whether it's a good idea to fit them right against the
ceiling or to leave a bit of a gap. I would guess you need some gap to
allow the doors to open freely, however I was thinking a very small
gap might trap a lot of dust, dead bugs etc.


We have some old Hygena units (1960's vintage in our kitchen) that go
right upto to the ceiling, There is a small gap - max 1 cm, mostly less
I guess. I guess it must have trapped alot of dust and bugs over the
years, but seeing as you can't see them I don't worry about it. It looks
fine. certainly better than finishing the units below the ceiling as is
the normal modern way IMO.
--
Chris French, Leeds
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Chris Hodges
 
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Colin Green wrote:
I know this is a nit of a duplicate but I've just put in an ikea
kitchen, so it might help:

Units are 70cm high. Adjustable plastic legs are 16 cm high (preset).
Plinth is 16cm high (and you'll want plinth if you use the plastic legs).

I see no reason not to put the cupboards up to the ceiling. I
considered but rejected doing that on the grounds of wanting to reach
the contents. You have some (+/- approx 1/2 cm) vertical adjust on the
doors with the current hinges, which will allow you to make the door
just not touch the ceiling.

A word of warning though - cover panels for the 92cm cupboards are a
stupid length - they seem to assume you will fit decor strip across the
front between cover panel on both sides.

Also for a large wall unit I added extra fixings (holding the top to the
wall).

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Colin Green
 
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Chris Hodges wrote:
Colin Green wrote:
I know this is a nit of a duplicate but I've just put in an ikea
kitchen, so it might help:

Units are 70cm high. Adjustable plastic legs are 16 cm high (preset).
Plinth is 16cm high (and you'll want plinth if you use the plastic legs).


Ok thanks everyone for the feedback, 70cm (or thereabouts) was the
answer I was hoping for.


I see no reason not to put the cupboards up to the ceiling. I
considered but rejected doing that on the grounds of wanting to reach
the contents. You have some (+/- approx 1/2 cm) vertical adjust on the
doors with the current hinges, which will allow you to make the door
just not touch the ceiling.


I think I'll go right up to the ceiling rather than leaving a large gap.
Currently I have a load of stuff sitting atop of the cupbaords and it
looks messy. I really need the storage space though so I think this is
the neat/tidy option, even if it is awkward for the height impaired


A word of warning though - cover panels for the 92cm cupboards are a
stupid length - they seem to assume you will fit decor strip across the
front between cover panel on both sides.


Sorry I'm new to this - which bit is the cover panel?


Also for a large wall unit I added extra fixings (holding the top to the
wall).


Understood.

Regards,

Colin

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Andrew Gabriel
 
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In article ,
Colin Green writes:
Chris Hodges wrote:
I see no reason not to put the cupboards up to the ceiling. I
considered but rejected doing that on the grounds of wanting to reach
the contents. You have some (+/- approx 1/2 cm) vertical adjust on the
doors with the current hinges, which will allow you to make the door
just not touch the ceiling.


I think I'll go right up to the ceiling rather than leaving a large gap.


This can have a remarkable visual effect of shrinking the room.
If you have a large kitchen, it probably won't notice, but it
can make a smaller kitchen look even smaller than it is because
you lose the eye-line to the wall/ceiling corners, which has the
visual effect of bringing the walls in to the cupboard fronts.
The gap on top of cupboards is also handy for positioning concealed
indirect room lighting, bouncing off a light coloured or white
ceiling, with no shadows. (A central ceiling light in a kitchen
is usually remarkably useless, as whenever you are working around
the edge of the kitchen where worktops, cookers, sinks, etc are
normally positioned, you are working in your shadow.)

A word of warning though - cover panels for the 92cm cupboards are a
stupid length - they seem to assume you will fit decor strip across the
front between cover panel on both sides.


Sorry I'm new to this - which bit is the cover panel?


A panel which goes on the end of a run of cupboards, to hide the
white cupboard carcass with a panel which matches the doors.
If you aren't fitting the decor strip under cupboards, simply
cut the top off the cover panel so it fits on the end of the
carcass without hanging down below. ISTR cover panels for the
base units are 70cm, but they're wider so you would have to cut
the back off instead, but this can be better if you wall isn't
flat as you can cut it to follow the curvature of the wall.

--
Andrew Gabriel
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Colin Green
 
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Colin Green writes:

Chris Hodges wrote:

I see no reason not to put the cupboards up to the ceiling. I
considered but rejected doing that on the grounds of wanting to reach
the contents. You have some (+/- approx 1/2 cm) vertical adjust on the
doors with the current hinges, which will allow you to make the door
just not touch the ceiling.


I think I'll go right up to the ceiling rather than leaving a large gap.



This can have a remarkable visual effect of shrinking the room.
If you have a large kitchen, it probably won't notice, but it
can make a smaller kitchen look even smaller than it is because
you lose the eye-line to the wall/ceiling corners, which has the


Interesting point. Yes it is a small kitchen but then it looks like I
won't bo going for the IKEA units after all. Their sink base is 80cm and
I need to fit it into a corner on the left hand side (with drainer on
left). So in order to fit an inset sink I'll have to move the base unit
out to the right, and fit another 40cm(smallest unit width) unit to fill
the gap. This won't leave much of a countertop on the right hand side
(2000-1200=800mm) and a little bit (approx. 200mm) of relatively useless
counter top on the left right against a wall.

Nah, I'll have to go for a more mundane 1000mm base unit and a sink unit
sat on top. Maybe I can get a sub 1000mm sink for a touch more counter
space.

It might not look brilliant but it's the most practical option, cheaper
& a lot easier to install.


Sorry I'm new to this - which bit is the cover panel?



A panel which goes on the end of a run of cupboards, to hide the
white cupboard carcass with a panel which matches the doors.
If you aren't fitting the decor strip under cupboards, simply
cut the top off the cover panel so it fits on the end of the
carcass without hanging down below.


Ahh I see. Well I guess too long is better than too short (I'm still
talking about cover panels BTW). I was hoping to avoid that necessity by
fitting one of those nifty end units with the exposed shelves.

Cheers for the advice. On reflection I think you're right about the tall
units, I'll have to think about where else I can squeeze in some extra
storage space.

Colin.
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