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Baxi Solo 3 PF



 
 
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  #11  
Old May 7th 04, 09:51 PM
geoff
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Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

In message , Darren Griffin -
PocketGPSWorld writes
geoff wrote:
Do you have a wire trapped somewhere?

Is there water damage on the board?

What happens if you disconnect the pump?


No obvious signs of damage on the PCB, no arcing, burns or any water damage
ceratinly. If I disconnect the Pump supply from the PCB (fan is now
reconnected) I no longer get any blown fuses, Boiler ON light illuminates
but I have left the thermostat OFF.

Appreciate your help here, I assume this means the fault points towards the
pump and I should be looking in the airing cupboard now?

If that's where it is, yes.

It certainly seems to be the first thing to look at

If you are confident enough with electricity, you could try connecting
it up to the mains (via a plug with a 5A fuse in (unless you like big
bangs))

If it blows the fuse, you've found your problem

--
geoff
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  #12  
Old May 7th 04, 09:58 PM
geoff
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Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

In message , Darren Griffin -
PocketGPSWorld writes
Set Square wrote:
Probably. You could bottom this out by disconnecting the pump from its
current supply (junction box, or whatever) and putting a 13amp plug
with 3 amp fuse on the end of its lead. Plug this into a 13amp socket
(with the help of an extension lead if necessary) and see what
happens. If the fuse blows, it's pretty conclusive.


I'm about to give up on fixing this and call a pro, the only problem is, is
this an electrician's job or a heating engineer? I'm not rolling in cash
and would like to get this fixed in one hit, I don't fancy paying for a
hetaing engineer only for him to say it needs an electrician after I have
forked out for his call out fee


If you look at the cost of calling someone out, it would be cheaper to
just buy a pump and replace the old one

When you find the pump, tell us whether it has a valve on each side of
the pump - if so you can change it without draining down the system.

When I say easy, it depends how easy it is to undo the connectors

You can be sure that there is enough expertise in this group to lead you
through doing it (unless you listen to IMM, in which case it's bound to
leak)

--
geoff
  #13  
Old May 7th 04, 11:04 PM
Darren Griffin - PocketGPSWorld
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Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

geoff wrote:
If you look at the cost of calling someone out, it would be cheaper to
just buy a pump and replace the old one

When you find the pump, tell us whether it has a valve on each side of
the pump - if so you can change it without draining down the system.

When I say easy, it depends how easy it is to undo the connectors

You can be sure that there is enough expertise in this group to lead
you through doing it (unless you listen to IMM, in which case it's
bound to leak)


Thanks Geoff, I'll test the pump first thing and report back, gotta be worth
a try!

--
Darren Griffin
Pocket GPS World - http://www.pocketgpsworld.com
The Premier GPS Resource for News, Reviews and Forums


  #14  
Old May 8th 04, 11:34 AM
Darren Griffin - PocketGPSWorld
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Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

geoff wrote:
It certainly seems to be the first thing to look at

If you are confident enough with electricity, you could try connecting
it up to the mains (via a plug with a 5A fuse in (unless you like big
bangs))

If it blows the fuse, you've found your problem


OK, firstly I now appear to have blown the PCB, tested last night without
pump connected and all was OK, switched off, connected pump, switched on and
there was a pop, noticed fuse on PCB had blown so replaced and even without
pump conncted this time there was no light indicating Boiler ON, removed PCB
and there is a small burn mark towards rear around two resistors, so I'll be
needing a recon replacement from you for starters! (Baxi Part: 231711).

As for the pump, disconnected, attached plug (with 5A fuse) and connected to
mains, as soon as it is switched on the master trip in the CU activates
although the 5A fuse does not blow! This obvioulsy suggests the pump has a
problem but my electrical knowledge is not good enough to explain why the
fuse remains intact. The good news is there are valves directly above and
below the pump so a full system drain is not necessary.

Would you agree that the pump appears to have been the culprit here? I'll
source a new replacement, it's a Grundfos Selectric UPS 15-50 and hopefully
this should be relatively simple to replace. As for the PCB, I'll contact
you directly regards a replacement.

--
Darren


  #15  
Old May 8th 04, 01:23 PM
Set Square
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Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Darren Griffin - PocketGPSWorld wrote:

geoff wrote:
It certainly seems to be the first thing to look at

If you are confident enough with electricity, you could try
connecting it up to the mains (via a plug with a 5A fuse in (unless
you like big bangs))

If it blows the fuse, you've found your problem


OK, firstly I now appear to have blown the PCB, tested last night
without pump connected and all was OK, switched off, connected pump,
switched on and there was a pop, noticed fuse on PCB had blown so
replaced and even without pump conncted this time there was no light
indicating Boiler ON, removed PCB and there is a small burn mark
towards rear around two resistors, so I'll be needing a recon
replacement from you for starters! (Baxi Part: 231711).

As for the pump, disconnected, attached plug (with 5A fuse) and
connected to mains, as soon as it is switched on the master trip in
the CU activates although the 5A fuse does not blow! This obvioulsy
suggests the pump has a problem but my electrical knowledge is not
good enough to explain why the fuse remains intact. The good news is
there are valves directly above and below the pump so a full system
drain is not necessary.

Would you agree that the pump appears to have been the culprit here?
I'll source a new replacement, it's a Grundfos Selectric UPS 15-50
and hopefully this should be relatively simple to replace. As for
the PCB, I'll contact you directly regards a replacement.


Why, oh why didn't you follow the advice of testing the pump on its own
FIRST? You'd have saved yourself the cost of the new PCB for the boiler!

The pump almost certainly has a short between live and earth. The mains
socket you plugged it into is probably protected by an earth leakage
breaker - which tripped before the fuse blew. The central heating - along
with freezers etc. - is probably on a circuit which doesn't have earth
leakage protection - causing the fuse to blow instead when the pump was
normally connected.

You'll need a large spanner (or adjustable) to undo the nuts on the pump -
and they might take a bit of shifting. It often helps to have an assistant
to hang on to the pump while you tap the spanner round with a copper mallet.
Make sure that you replace the (rubber or fibre) washers between the valve
flanges and pump body - and try not to strain the surrounding pipework more
than absolutely necessary - since this can induce leaks elsewhere.

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!


  #16  
Old May 8th 04, 02:41 PM
Darren Griffin - PocketGPSWorld
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Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

Set Square wrote:
Why, oh why didn't you follow the advice of testing the pump on its
own FIRST? You'd have saved yourself the cost of the new PCB for the
boiler!

The pump almost certainly has a short between live and earth. The
mains socket you plugged it into is probably protected by an earth
leakage breaker - which tripped before the fuse blew. The central
heating - along with freezers etc. - is probably on a circuit which
doesn't have earth leakage protection - causing the fuse to blow
instead when the pump was normally connected.

You'll need a large spanner (or adjustable) to undo the nuts on the
pump - and they might take a bit of shifting. It often helps to have
an assistant to hang on to the pump while you tap the spanner round
with a copper mallet. Make sure that you replace the (rubber or
fibre) washers between the valve flanges and pump body - and try not
to strain the surrounding pipework more than absolutely necessary -
since this can induce leaks elsewhere.


I know, it was stupid but in my defence I found a number of wires in the
airing cupboard junction box were loose and could be pulled out easily so
having tightened and checked those I foolishly thought I'd test in the vain
hope that this may have fixed it, of course it didn't and a blown PCB is the
price I'll have to pay for my idiocy!

--
Darren


  #17  
Old May 8th 04, 03:29 PM
John
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF


"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Darren Griffin - PocketGPSWorld wrote:

geoff wrote:
It certainly seems to be the first thing to look at

If you are confident enough with electricity, you could try
connecting it up to the mains (via a plug with a 5A fuse in (unless
you like big bangs))

If it blows the fuse, you've found your problem


OK, firstly I now appear to have blown the PCB, tested last night
without pump connected and all was OK, switched off, connected pump,
switched on and there was a pop, noticed fuse on PCB had blown so
replaced and even without pump conncted this time there was no light
indicating Boiler ON, removed PCB and there is a small burn mark
towards rear around two resistors, so I'll be needing a recon
replacement from you for starters! (Baxi Part: 231711).

As for the pump, disconnected, attached plug (with 5A fuse) and
connected to mains, as soon as it is switched on the master trip in
the CU activates although the 5A fuse does not blow! This obvioulsy
suggests the pump has a problem but my electrical knowledge is not
good enough to explain why the fuse remains intact. The good news is
there are valves directly above and below the pump so a full system
drain is not necessary.

Would you agree that the pump appears to have been the culprit here?
I'll source a new replacement, it's a Grundfos Selectric UPS 15-50
and hopefully this should be relatively simple to replace. As for
the PCB, I'll contact you directly regards a replacement.


Why, oh why didn't you follow the advice of testing the pump on its own
FIRST? You'd have saved yourself the cost of the new PCB for the boiler!

The pump almost certainly has a short between live and earth. The mains
socket you plugged it into is probably protected by an earth leakage
breaker - which tripped before the fuse blew. The central heating - along
with freezers etc. - is probably on a circuit which doesn't have earth
leakage protection - causing the fuse to blow instead when the pump was
normally connected.

You'll need a large spanner (or adjustable) to undo the nuts on the pump -
and they might take a bit of shifting. It often helps to have an assistant
to hang on to the pump while you tap the spanner round with a copper

mallet.
Make sure that you replace the (rubber or fibre) washers between the valve
flanges and pump body - and try not to strain the surrounding pipework

more
than absolutely necessary - since this can induce leaks elsewhere.


shut off the service valves and hope they don't leak through the spindle
when you move them if they are more than a couple of years old. (Try to do
the job when merchants are open to buy replacements if they do).
Sometimes the nuts move easily but often they require a bit of tapping with
a small hammer to break the crud seal which may have formed on the threads.
With a bit of practice you can strike it on the "corners" to persuade it to
undo. Ensure the new pump goes back in the same flow direction as per arrow
on body and apply grease to the threads to facilitate future removal. Most
pumps come with 2 new joint gaskets in the box but make sure the faces of
the old unions are clean. Its sometimes easier to fit the wiring while the
pump is loose and easy to work on. Refill and vent the pump through the
spindle plug then away you go.


  #18  
Old May 8th 04, 07:01 PM
geoff
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

In message , Darren Griffin -
PocketGPSWorld writes
geoff wrote:
It certainly seems to be the first thing to look at

If you are confident enough with electricity, you could try connecting
it up to the mains (via a plug with a 5A fuse in (unless you like big
bangs))

If it blows the fuse, you've found your problem


OK, firstly I now appear to have blown the PCB, tested last night without
pump connected and all was OK, switched off, connected pump, switched on and
there was a pop, noticed fuse on PCB had blown so replaced and even without
pump conncted this time there was no light indicating Boiler ON, removed PCB
and there is a small burn mark towards rear around two resistors, so I'll be
needing a recon replacement from you for starters! (Baxi Part: 231711).


Has the short circuit of the pump blown a track on the board?


As for the pump, disconnected, attached plug (with 5A fuse) and connected to
mains, as soon as it is switched on the master trip in the CU activates
although the 5A fuse does not blow! This obvioulsy suggests the pump has a
problem but my electrical knowledge is not good enough to explain why the
fuse remains intact.


The CU operated faster than the fuse blowing, or it is a short to earth.

The good news is there are valves directly above and
below the pump so a full system drain is not necessary.


So you can remove the pump after closing the valves

I'm not an expert on pump removal, but maybe a bit of WD40 or plus gas
on the threads now might be a good idea to let it penetrate for a while
before trying to undo it


Would you agree that the pump appears to have been the culprit here?


It looks very much like it

I'll
source a new replacement, it's a Grundfos Selectric UPS 15-50 and hopefully
this should be relatively simple to replace.


Two nuts (don't forget the washers) and the L N E connections.

There is a 3 way rotary switch on the pump which is probably set to II.
You should set the new one to the same power setting

Make sure you fit the new pump the same way round as the old one (which
may sound pretty obvious, but I thought I'd mention it anyway)

As for the PCB, I'll contact
you directly regards a replacement.


--
geoff
  #19  
Old May 9th 04, 10:00 AM
Darren Griffin - PocketGPSWorld
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Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

geoff wrote:
Has the short circuit of the pump blown a track on the board?


Geoff, have taken a phot of the PCB to indicate the area where damage
appears to have ocurred. There do not appear to be any damage tracks, just
faint brun marks on front and back around the three components indicated by
the arrow.

http://www.griffinnet.co.uk/images/pcb_front.png
http://www.griffinnet.co.uk/images/pcb_rear.png
--
Darren


  #20  
Old May 9th 04, 09:19 PM
geoff
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Posts: n/a
Default Baxi Solo 3 PF

In message , Darren Griffin -
PocketGPSWorld writes
geoff wrote:
Has the short circuit of the pump blown a track on the board?


Geoff, have taken a phot of the PCB to indicate the area where damage
appears to have ocurred. There do not appear to be any damage tracks, just
faint brun marks on front and back around the three components indicated by
the arrow.

http://www.griffinnet.co.uk/images/pcb_front.png
http://www.griffinnet.co.uk/images/pcb_rear.png


That bit often gets a bit hot and browns a bit, it's a dropper circuit.

I can't see anything obvious, (If you had kept the board still, it would
have helped), but the tracks associated with the pump don't appear to
have blown, it's a component failure

--
geoff
 




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