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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Built in bookshelves - advice appreciated
Hi all,
I've been tasked with fitting some bookcases into a room in our new house. In order to make the most of the available space, it has been decreed that they are to be built in. The room is in a (probably) Victorian extension to a much older house, and according to the surveyor has solid walls. It had some suspiciously high damp readings during the survey too, but there doesn't seem to be much sign of damp other than that. The room is quite cold, though - a combination of slightly tired central heating and the complete lack of insulation in the walls, I expect. I'm hoping to gain some insulation value from the books themselves - a few inches of tightly packed paper should do some good, right? I'd like some advice about the general form of the bookcases. They're going to be in some kind of veneered man-made board with real wood trimming the edges. Probably. I haven't done the detail design yet! A few options have occured to me; should I - Attach the vertical sides of the shelves directly to the walls so that the back of the bookcases is the wall itself? Have a wooden back on the bookcases right up against the wall? Have a wooden back to the cases with a ventilated air gap behind it so that any damp that accumulates can get out - although this will presumably negate the insulating effect of the books? Should the air gap be non-ventilated, then? Have a gap behind the bookcases filled with polystyrene foam - in which case, how much foam would make a worthwhile difference? Have a ventilated gap and some foam, in which case should the foam be inside or outside the air gap? Insert plastic sheeting anywhere into the above schemes? Any advice gratefully appreciated! Thanks, Rich. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.806 / Virus Database: 548 - Release Date: 05/12/2004 |
#2
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tree wrote:
Hi all, I've been tasked with fitting some bookcases into a room in our new house. In order to make the most of the available space, it has been decreed that they are to be built in. The room is in a (probably) Victorian extension to a much older house, and according to the surveyor has solid walls. It had some suspiciously high damp readings during the survey too, but there doesn't seem to be much sign of damp other than that. The room is quite cold, though - a combination of slightly tired central heating and the complete lack of insulation in the walls, I expect. snip If air gets from a hot place to a cold place, then some of the water in it may condense. This you really, really don't want happening to books, so they should not be used as insulation. What is the construction of the wall? Plasterboard - gap - stone wall? Or plastered stone. |
#3
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"tree" wrote in message .. . I've been tasked with fitting some bookcases into a room in our new house. In order to make the most of the available space, it has been decreed that they are to be built in. Have a ventilated gap and some foam, in which case should the foam be inside or outside the air gap? Insert plastic sheeting anywhere into the above schemes? If you have the space : Wall - 10-20mm gap - 20mm KIngspan/Celotex - 10mm gap - plastic pinned to closed back of bookcase If the gap between the wall and Kingspan gets wet it is damp from the wall. If the gap between the Kingspan and the plastic gets damp it is condensation from the room. Don't use polystyrene - the books are probably enough of a fire hazard without adding to it. |
#4
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snip
If air gets from a hot place to a cold place, then some of the water in it may condense. This you really, really don't want happening to books, so they should not be used as insulation. What is the construction of the wall? Plasterboard - gap - stone wall? Or plastered stone. The wall is solid brick, plastered on the inside and just painted on the outside. I suspect the bottom course(s) of bricks might be more solid (engineering brick?) as a not very successful DPC. Cheers, Rich. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.806 / Virus Database: 548 - Release Date: 05/12/2004 |
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