Morning,

I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set
a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally
would also allow me to override easily at any point.

Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.

Thanks in advance,
Al Reynolds

"Al Reynolds" wrote:
Morning,

I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set
a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally
would also allow me to override easily at any point.

Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.

Have just found this:
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=16578
but the max load is 400W and I need to control 600W.

But that is the sort of thing...

Al

Have just found this:
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=16578
but the max load is 400W and I need to control 600W.

Jesus. I hope you're responsible for floodlighting the Eiffel tower or
something. 600W is usually utterly inappropriate even for the most obscene
interior or exterior lighting in a domestic property. Perhaps you should
work on reducing the load, rather than finding a larger switch?

Apart from that, you'll need some sort of immersion timer with the right
features and 13A ability. Alternatively, an external relay.

Christian.

In article ,
"Al Reynolds" writes:
"Al Reynolds" wrote:
I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set
a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally
would also allow me to override easily at any point.

Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.

Have just found this:
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=16578
but the max load is 400W and I need to control 600W.

600W? Of lighting? Crumbs. My 16'x21' kitchen is lit with 480W of buried
spots, which I think is way over the top and desperately needs worked on to
reduce (anyone know where you get those light-pipe thingies, and experienced
folk to fit them?). What on earth are you lighting that needs 600W behind
one switch?
--
SAm.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Have just found this:
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=16578
but the max load is 400W and I need to control 600W.

Jesus. I hope you're responsible for floodlighting the Eiffel tower or
something. 600W is usually utterly inappropriate even for the most obscene
interior or exterior lighting in a domestic property. Perhaps you should
work on reducing the load, rather than finding a larger switch?

Sorry - I should have said that it was a maximum potential load
of 600W. It actually only has 300W at the moment, but some
of the fittings can take higher capacity bulbs, so I ought to have
a setup that allows for that possibility. These are external lights,
and are spread far and wide about my property, so that I can
see where I'm walking at night.

Al

Sorry - I should have said that it was a maximum potential load
of 600W. It actually only has 300W at the moment, but some
of the fittings can take higher capacity bulbs, so I ought to have
a setup that allows for that possibility. These are external lights,
and are spread far and wide about my property, so that I can
see where I'm walking at night.

300W is certainly better, although you should consider using CFL type bulbs
for this application, to reduce usage further.

Personally, I would wire this up differently from a traditional lighting
circuit. I would use a DP switched immersion timer (or any suitable light
switch and relay) and have independent RCD protection, too, run from a 3A
MCB on the consumer unit. This reduces the effect of faults in the garden
circuit on the rest of the system.

Christian.

In article ,
Al Reynolds wrote:
Sorry - I should have said that it was a maximum potential load
of 600W. It actually only has 300W at the moment, but some
of the fittings can take higher capacity bulbs, so I ought to have
a setup that allows for that possibility. These are external lights,
and are spread far and wide about my property, so that I can
see where I'm walking at night.

Then I'd say you need to make provision for using a device which includes
a relay, which precludes one which will just replace a standard standard
size switch in a standard depth box. You could, of course, use a small
capacity timer that will fit the existing box to switch a relay situated
elsewhere. Perhaps in the roof void etc or anywhere convenient.

--
*Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
Personally, I would wire this up differently from a traditional lighting
circuit. I would use a DP switched immersion timer (or any suitable light
switch and relay) and have independent RCD protection, too, run from a 3A
MCB on the consumer unit. This reduces the effect of faults in the garden
circuit on the rest of the system.

Yup. For convenience, it would be easiest to use a timer which fits the
switch box, and use that to switch a relay. A suitable 20 amp one can be
bought from the likes of Maplin for under a tenner. The circuit the relay
switches can therefore be independant, or perhaps a fused spur off a ring
main - or have its own RCD etc.

--
*Just give me chocolate and nobody gets hurt

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Sorry - I should have said that it was a maximum potential load
of 600W. It actually only has 300W at the moment, but some
of the fittings can take higher capacity bulbs, so I ought to have
a setup that allows for that possibility. These are external lights,
and are spread far and wide about my property, so that I can
see where I'm walking at night.

300W is certainly better, although you should consider using CFL type
bulbs
for this application, to reduce usage further.

Personally, I would wire this up differently from a traditional lighting
circuit. I would use a DP switched immersion timer (or any suitable light
switch and relay) and have independent RCD protection, too, run from a 3A
MCB on the consumer unit. This reduces the effect of faults in the garden
circuit on the rest of the system.

Good point about the CFLs.

Using the DP switched timer separately sounds OK, but
I would need to keep it vaguely accessible so that I could
override it if necessary.

Hadn't thought abour RCD protection (partly because it
wasn't RCD protected before). I know it's a requirement
that outside-accessible sockets are RCD protected but
does this also apply to outside lighting?

Al

Hadn't thought abour RCD protection (partly because it
wasn't RCD protected before). I know it's a requirement
that outside-accessible sockets are RCD protected but
does this also apply to outside lighting?

Not to my knowledge. However, the regulations are very keen not to require
RCDs in cases where they could be appropriate. In all but the most extreme
cases, the decision is left to the designer.

In this case, the RCD will be subject to nuisance trips, particularly if the
IP rating of the fittings isn't up to the job, but I think it is worth the
occassional trips to get some warning of problems.

Christian.

Al Reynolds wrote:

What's the best way of stopping any nuisance trips
from the exterior lighting tripping the main house RCD?
I have a split-load CU and the three lighting circuits are
currently on separate MCBs on the non-RCD-protected
side of the CU.

Leave the circuit on the non RCD side but replace its MCB with a RCBO.
That way it has a RCD of its own and is hence separated from the main RCD.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Leave the circuit on the non RCD side but replace its MCB with a RCBO.
That way it has a RCD of its own and is hence separated from the main RCD.

And if the consumer unit doesn't have any RCBOs available for it, you can
install a separate RCD in a 2 way enclosure to protect an individual
circuit. You certainly don't want exterior electrics on a shared RCD.

Christian.

On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 09:25:38 -0000, "Al Reynolds"
strung together this:

I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set
a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally
would also allow me to override easily at any point.

Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.

http://www.timeguard.com/details.php?product=44
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

"Lurch" wrote:
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 09:25:38 -0000, "Al Reynolds"
strung together this:

I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set
a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally
would also allow me to override easily at any point.

Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.

http://www.timeguard.com/details.php?product=44

Cheers, that might do it.
Al

In message , Al Reynolds
writes
Morning,

I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set
a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally
would also allow me to override easily at any point.

Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.

Thanks in advance,
Al Reynolds



http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...12544&ts=48060

Fits _next_ to standard single or double width socket or lightswitch.
Left or right side.
Doesn't need access to a neutral connection, and happily switches CFL or
any other load up to 6A (inductive) or 13A (resistive).

--
Steve

Jesus. I hope you're responsible for floodlighting the Eiffel tower or
something. 600W is usually utterly inappropriate even for the most obscene
interior or exterior lighting in a domestic property.

LOL my kitchen has 550W of mains voltage halogen, and its NOT a big
kitchen !

--
Please add "[newsgroup]" in the subject of any personal replies via email
--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

"Dave Plowman wrote:
Christian McArdle wrote:
Personally, I would wire this up differently from a traditional lighting
circuit. I would use a DP switched immersion timer (or any suitable light
switch and relay) and have independent RCD protection, too, run from a 3A
MCB on the consumer unit. This reduces the effect of faults in the garden
circuit on the rest of the system.

Yup. For convenience, it would be easiest to use a timer which fits the
switch box, and use that to switch a relay. A suitable 20 amp one can be
bought from the likes of Maplin for under a tenner. The circuit the relay
switches can therefore be independant, or perhaps a fused spur off a ring
main - or have its own RCD etc.

Thanks Christian and Dave.

OK - my last (maybe) question(s). I would quite like
to use the switch I found at toolstation:
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=16578
but that's the one that has a max load of 400W and
having checked the specs on the greenbrook website
it's also not compatible with CFLs.

Will using this switch to control a relay which in turn
controls my lighting circuit mean that I can then use the
CFLs, as they are not directly controlled by the time
switch?

If so, then
(a) can I run the switch == relay circuit and the
relay-controlled lighting circuit from the same
6A MCB/RCB0 in the CU?
(b) can anyone recommend a suitable relay
(with a web link if possible)

Cheers,
Al

Will using this switch to control a relay which in turn
controls my lighting circuit mean that I can then use the
CFLs, as they are not directly controlled by the time
switch?

Yes.

If so, then
(a) can I run the switch == relay circuit and the
relay-controlled lighting circuit from the same
6A MCB/RCB0 in the CU?

Yes.

(b) can anyone recommend a suitable relay
(with a web link if possible)

Personally, I'd be inclined to fit a DIN rail contactor. It can share an
enclosure with the external RCD. A cheap "shower" or "garage" consumer unit
with RCD incomer could be used, and the MCBs thrown away. Not the cheapest
solution by any means, though.

Christian.

In article ,
Al Reynolds wrote:
(a) can I run the switch == relay circuit and the
relay-controlled lighting circuit from the same
6A MCB/RCB0 in the CU?

Yup. The circuit loading will be the same, as the relay takes near zero
current.

(b) can anyone recommend a suitable relay
(with a web link if possible)

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37495&TabID=1&source=15&World ID=3&doy=8m12

N24AW @ 4.99

I think if you order it from a shop you'll avoid postage and minimum
order costs.

This has 1/4" spade connectors so you could use the crimp on types, or
solder if you have a suitable iron.

I'd fit it inside an adaptable box with knockouts which you'll get from
any wholesaler or:-

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Adaptable/index.html

BX333 @2.99

--
*In "Casablanca", Humphrey Bogart never said "Play it again, Sam" *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Al Reynolds wrote:
(a) can I run the switch == relay circuit and the
relay-controlled lighting circuit from the same
6A MCB/RCB0 in the CU?

Yup. The circuit loading will be the same, as the relay takes near zero
current.

(b) can anyone recommend a suitable relay
(with a web link if possible)

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37495&TabID=1&source=15&World ID=3&doy=8m12

N24AW @ 4.99

I think if you order it from a shop you'll avoid postage and minimum
order costs.

This has 1/4" spade connectors so you could use the crimp on types, or
solder if you have a suitable iron.

I'd fit it inside an adaptable box with knockouts which you'll get from
any wholesaler or:-

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Adaptable/index.html

BX333 @2.99

Thanks Dave,
Al

I'd fit it inside an adaptable box with knockouts which you'll get from
any wholesaler or:-

Alternatively, the same page has the code for a DIN rail relay mounting
socket that could be mounted in the same unit as the RCD.

Christian.