Hi All,

I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux
was used.

Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.

Thanks In advance

Bob

Scrape the oxide off before starting. Multicore should work, as would the
plumbers solder and plumbers flux paste. I wouldn't use offcuts though as you
would be welding rather than soldering! Plumbers solder will be "lead free" so
have a higher melting point than multicore. I think Bakers' fluid (Zinc
chloride solution with a bit of glycerine & alcohol?) will work but less
convenient than pastes?

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux
was used.

Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.

Thanks In advance

Bob

The correct way to work lead flashing is by welding using oxyacetylene. No
flux is used.
Cut a 10mm strip of lead to use as a filler rod. Remove the oxide from both
surfaces using a paint scraper. For a butt joint, make sure that the
surfaces join snugly. Mark a 6mm strip each side of the joint on the upper
surface and shave the oxide off these. Then weld.
Lap joints, mark a 6mm strip either side of the visible join and clean off
oxide, and also 6mm strips on the mating surfaces and clean. Then weld.

BillP wrote:

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux
was used.

Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.

Thanks In advance

Bob

The correct way to work lead flashing is by welding using oxyacetylene. No
flux is used.
Cut a 10mm strip of lead to use as a filler rod. Remove the oxide from both
surfaces using a paint scraper. For a butt joint, make sure that the
surfaces join snugly. Mark a 6mm strip each side of the joint on the upper
surface and shave the oxide off these. Then weld.
Lap joints, mark a 6mm strip either side of the visible join and clean off
oxide, and also 6mm strips on the mating surfaces and clean. Then weld.

Hi Bill.

I like the idea of welding, indeed this must have been what I saw demonstrated
on TV.

I don't have oxyacetylene kit do you think propane would be hot enough?

TIA

Bob

"BillP" wrote in message
...

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I need to make up a fairly complex
shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at
soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago
when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder
but can't remember if any flux was used.

Is it necessary and if so what should I use?
I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.

The correct way to work lead flashing
is by welding using oxyacetylene.

"oxyacetylene"? Please?? An ordinary blow torch and ordinary solder and
flux will do at a push. Many used sticks of grade D solder and "wiped"
around the joint to tidy it up.

You can use no flux, as many did, by "lead burning". You need a directional
burner on the blow torch and know what you are doing, otherwise lots of
melted lead about.



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"Steve Firth" wrote in message

The Bernzomatic oxy-propane torches work. Nice small flame.

Thanks for that Steve

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux
was used.

Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.

Thanks In advance

Bob


Bob,

If you want I can scan and email you a copy of the guidance sheet for lead
welding.

Bill

"OldScrawn" wrote in message
...
Scrape the oxide off before starting. Multicore should work, as would the
plumbers solder and plumbers flux paste. I wouldn't use offcuts though as
you
would be welding rather than soldering! Plumbers solder will be "lead
free" so
have a higher melting point than multicore.

Best to use low melting point Grade D solder. Available from some of the
sheds and plumbers merchants.


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"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
crooksie wrote:
soldering lead is an art, the way its done with an iron is to use lead
plumbers solder (still available) and a large soldering iron the kind
you
heat on the gas flame, the flux that is used is tallow (candle wax).
have fun

Think tallow is used on a wipe to stop it sticking to the lead - it's not
the flux.

--
*When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
crooksie wrote:
soldering lead is an art, the way its done with an iron is to use lead
plumbers solder (still available) and a large soldering iron the kind
you
heat on the gas flame, the flux that is used is tallow (candle wax).
have fun

Think tallow is used on a wipe to stop it sticking to the lead - it's not
the flux.

yes it is dave it is the traditional flux for lead
http://diytools.com/store/search.asp?ProductTypeID=1770

BillP wrote:

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux
was used.

Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.

Thanks In advance

Bob


Bob,

If you want I can scan and email you a copy of the guidance sheet for lead
welding.

Bill

Yes Please Bill! Thanks for your kind offer

My application is not strictly flashing. I am replaceing shiplap cladding on
my house by vertical clay tiling. The overflows from the two tanks in my loft
used to simply protrude through drilled holes in the shiplap. I want to avoid
drilling the tiles and so I want to weld an open fronted lead box through
which the pipes enter from the back and will protrude as far as the back of
the tiles. The box will fit in between the tiling battens, and sealed to the
pipes with silicone. I'll be putting in lead soakers behind the tiles in the
regioon of the box. In the event of an overflow, the water will enter the box,
run down over the soakers and appear as a wet patch indicating a problem. So
normally the box will be dry and behind the tiles protected from the weather
but I'd like to think of it properly welded ready for the day when it is
needed. Below the tiling I have flat roof extension with giuttering to take
away the water.

I'm quite sure my scheme is not the approved way but I think it meets the
spirit of the regs as it indicates the problem and will keep the house dry and
will look a lot nicer than pipes sticking out.

Bob

On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 21:41:35 UTC, Dave Plowman
wrote:

: IIRC, it's easier to use plumber's metal which is a solder with a lower
: (slightly) melting point than lead.

All solder - well, all lead-based solder - has a lower melting point
than lead! The joys of eutectic alloys ...

Ian


--

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...

My application is not strictly flashing. I am replaceing shiplap cladding
on
my house by vertical clay tiling.

Put external insulation under the tiles. You will not regret it.


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On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:31:11 +0100, "crooksie"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
crooksie wrote:
soldering lead is an art, the way its done with an iron is to use lead
plumbers solder (still available) and a large soldering iron the kind
you
heat on the gas flame, the flux that is used is tallow (candle wax).
have fun

Think tallow is used on a wipe to stop it sticking to the lead - it's not
the flux.

yes it is dave it is the traditional flux for lead
http://diytools.com/store/search.asp?ProductTypeID=1770

Err.... "Best quality hard white tallow. Jointing compound for use when
joining threaded conduit pipe.", and sure enough, that's what we used to
use it for in the maintenance electricians dept. 'orrible smell too.

--
Phil Addison
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/
Remove NOSPAM from address to reply

In article ,
Phil Addison wrote:
Err.... "Best quality hard white tallow. Jointing compound for use when
joining threaded conduit pipe.", and sure enough, that's what we used to
use it for in the maintenance electricians dept. 'orrible smell too.

Wasn't it used when putting the thread on conduit too?

--
*Out of my mind. Back in five minutes.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 01:35:21 +0100, Dave Plowman
wrote:

In article ,
Phil Addison wrote:
Err.... "Best quality hard white tallow. Jointing compound for use when
joining threaded conduit pipe.", and sure enough, that's what we used to
use it for in the maintenance electricians dept. 'orrible smell too.

Wasn't it used when putting the thread on conduit too?

Yes, it certainly was.

Phil