I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Ren Hoek wrote:

I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Should be ok. Mine is held down with 1/2" staples fired by a (manual) staple
gun, and is ok.


Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

Use 8x4 sheets to minimise the number of joints - with the long edge
perpendicular to the floorboards. Try to avoid having any joints coinciding
with floorboard edges. Give some thought to any small areas which you may to
get at to access wires and pipes - and make provision for these now.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Ren Hoek wrote:
I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

use 4mm WBP ply instead




RT

In article , Set Square
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Ren Hoek wrote:

I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Should be ok. Mine is held down with 1/2" staples fired by a (manual) staple
gun, and is ok.


Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

Use 8x4 sheets to minimise the number of joints - with the long edge
perpendicular to the floorboards. Try to avoid having any joints coinciding
with floorboard edges. Give some thought to any small areas which you may to
get at to access wires and pipes - and make provision for these now.

aaand, shiny side down to give the carpet something to grip. You can go
right up the skirting, grippers for the carpet (if used) can go on top. I taped
the joints with gaffa tape on top and sealed the joint at the skirting with a
sealant gun as I had a draughty floor.
--
fred

"Ren Hoek" wrote in message
...
I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

Lay the hardboard at 45 degrees to the floorboards to avoid all undulations
being parallel to the walls - seems to 'feel' better.

On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 19:55:47 GMT, "R Taylor"
wrote:

Ren Hoek wrote:
I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

use 4mm WBP ply instead

Forgive my ignorance, but what is WBP ply? What's the advantage of
this vs hardboard?

Ren Hoek wrote:
On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 19:55:47 GMT, "R Taylor"
wrote:

Ren Hoek wrote:
I'm about to embark on covering my lounge floor to eliminate the
undulating carpet effect.

I'm going for 3mm hardboard as recommended by my trusty Collins DIY
manual, and was thinking of using a nail gun to make the job a bit
easier.

I'm looking at the light duty brad nailer in HSS. Would this be
sufficent, or would I need something a bit more heavy duty?

Anything else I need to be aware of before I start?

use 4mm WBP ply instead

Forgive my ignorance, but what is WBP ply? What's the advantage of
this vs hardboard?

Water and Boil Proof ply, says it all, really.

hardboard is stiff cardboard and thus not moisture resistant whatsoever.


RT

R Taylor wrote in message ...
hardboard is stiff cardboard and thus not moisture resistant whatsoever.
Depends on the grade. IIRC oil tempered hardboard is what you need.

fred wrote:
aaand, shiny side down to give the carpet something to grip. You can go
right up the skirting, grippers for the carpet (if used) can go on top. I taped
the joints with gaffa tape on top and sealed the joint at the skirting with a
sealant gun as I had a draughty floor.

Carpet tape sticks better to the shiny side though! (more contact area /
less dust).

--
Spamtrap in use
To email replace 127.0.0.1 with blueyonder dot co dot uk

In article , Chris
Hodges writes
fred wrote:
aaand, shiny side down to give the carpet something to grip. You can go
right up the skirting, grippers for the carpet (if used) can go on top. I taped
the joints with gaffa tape on top and sealed the joint at the skirting with a
sealant gun as I had a draughty floor.

Carpet tape sticks better to the shiny side though! (more contact area /
less dust).

I was going to crawl under the floor, cut access hatches and tape from the
bottom but decided against it ;-)

Rough side up def best to stop the carpet skating. I initially planned to lay
one sheet of board then lift it a tad to place a piece of tape (face up) on the
floor, then lower board, then adjacent board onto it - an obvious faff and
totally hopeless. At that point decided to tape on top & to my amazement
it stuck pretty soundly, but then I use nuclear strength gaffa and not that
post-it strength stuff they sell in the sheds.
--
fred