Think our ageing Ocean FF combi (sorry, can't see any identifying model mark
other than this and the serial no. on or in the casework) is telling us that
it needs some care and attention, or that we ought to speed up our
replacement plans....

For a couple of days I had noticed that the hot tap needed to be turned
further and further on before the boiler would fire into action. Yesterday
morning it decided that no amount of flow was going to wake it up.

The boiler has a selector switch for DHW only or Heating and DHW. I turned
this to DHW only and then back to the DHW + Heating setting, and all was
fine again - boiler sparks into action immediately now when the hot tap is
opened (it's mounted on the kitchen wall, about 1m pipe run from the hot
tap).

However, the heating refuses to fire up at all now. All thermostats checked
and set to max for the moment - they are definitely both past the "heating
on" clicks.

The pump is slightly warm to the touch, and I have tried the normal
percussive attack on it and twisting the spindle doesnt seem to make any
difference.

Any hints on where to start with diagnosis/fix?


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
Think our ageing Ocean FF combi (sorry, can't see any identifying model
mark
other than this and the serial no. on or in the casework) is telling us
that
it needs some care and attention, or that we ought to speed up our
replacement plans....

For a couple of days I had noticed that the hot tap needed to be turned
further and further on before the boiler would fire into action.
Yesterday
morning it decided that no amount of flow was going to wake it up.

The boiler has a selector switch for DHW only or Heating and DHW. I
turned
this to DHW only and then back to the DHW + Heating setting, and all was
fine again - boiler sparks into action immediately now when the hot tap is
opened (it's mounted on the kitchen wall, about 1m pipe run from the hot
tap).

However, the heating refuses to fire up at all now. All thermostats
checked
and set to max for the moment - they are definitely both past the "heating
on" clicks.

The pump is slightly warm to the touch, and I have tried the normal
percussive attack on it and twisting the spindle doesnt seem to make any
difference.

Any hints on where to start with diagnosis/fix?


IMHO this is one of lifes nasty fiddly repair jobs. Fortunately it is likely
to be a diaphragm assembly which has failed and a service kit is fairly
readily available. Fitting it is another matter and bits fall out everywhere
when you start to open up the diverter block G
Good luck!

possibly a dhw heat sensor? sorry don't know your make of boiler at all, but
Worcesters that I'm used to. If the heat sensor gets 'furred up' it's a
simply job to change, and very cheap - it would cause the symptoms you
mention as it's not giving a signal to the boiler to fire-up when required.
I believe they are also called flow sensors, but whatever, it's a good
starting point as it can save a lot of expense, etc. if it is the fault.

Hugh

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
view my philatelic items for sale on ebay at:
http://tinyurl.com/l32i
"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
Think our ageing Ocean FF combi (sorry, can't see any identifying model
mark
other than this and the serial no. on or in the casework) is telling us
that
it needs some care and attention, or that we ought to speed up our
replacement plans....

For a couple of days I had noticed that the hot tap needed to be turned
further and further on before the boiler would fire into action.
Yesterday
morning it decided that no amount of flow was going to wake it up.

The boiler has a selector switch for DHW only or Heating and DHW. I
turned
this to DHW only and then back to the DHW + Heating setting, and all was
fine again - boiler sparks into action immediately now when the hot tap is
opened (it's mounted on the kitchen wall, about 1m pipe run from the hot
tap).

However, the heating refuses to fire up at all now. All thermostats
checked
and set to max for the moment - they are definitely both past the "heating
on" clicks.

The pump is slightly warm to the touch, and I have tried the normal
percussive attack on it and twisting the spindle doesnt seem to make any
difference.

Any hints on where to start with diagnosis/fix?


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"John" wrote in message
...

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
Think our ageing Ocean FF combi (sorry, can't see any identifying model
mark
other than this and the serial no. on or in the casework) is telling us
that
it needs some care and attention, or that we ought to speed up our
replacement plans....

For a couple of days I had noticed that the hot tap needed to be turned
further and further on before the boiler would fire into action.
Yesterday
morning it decided that no amount of flow was going to wake it up.

The boiler has a selector switch for DHW only or Heating and DHW. I
turned
this to DHW only and then back to the DHW + Heating setting, and all was
fine again - boiler sparks into action immediately now when the hot tap
is
opened (it's mounted on the kitchen wall, about 1m pipe run from the hot
tap).

However, the heating refuses to fire up at all now. All thermostats
checked
and set to max for the moment - they are definitely both past the
"heating
on" clicks.

The pump is slightly warm to the touch, and I have tried the normal
percussive attack on it and twisting the spindle doesnt seem to make any
difference.

Any hints on where to start with diagnosis/fix?


IMHO this is one of lifes nasty fiddly repair jobs. Fortunately it is
likely
to be a diaphragm assembly which has failed and a service kit is fairly
readily available. Fitting it is another matter and bits fall out
everywhere
when you start to open up the diverter block G
Good luck!


Thanks - sorry for not responding sooner but my ISP's news server hasn't
replicated any new articles for the past two days (I did see them from a
free - ie no post permissions - server that I use but couldn't respond).

What I'm seeing after further investigation is no voltage at the pump when
the heating should be on. I would have thought that the first thing that
gets fired up when switching the heating on is the pump, and the boiler then
kicks into action from a flow sensor on the heating circuit - ie fail-safe
in case of problems with the pump. Perhaps this is not the case though.

Why would you suspect the diaphragm assembly? (just curious as to the
diagnosis)

many thanks


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"Hugh" wrote in message
...
possibly a dhw heat sensor? sorry don't know your make of boiler at all,
but
Worcesters that I'm used to. If the heat sensor gets 'furred up' it's a
simply job to change, and very cheap - it would cause the symptoms you
mention as it's not giving a signal to the boiler to fire-up when
required.
I believe they are also called flow sensors, but whatever, it's a good
starting point as it can save a lot of expense, etc. if it is the fault.

Hugh


the pump isn't firing up either - I would have expected such a failure to
result in the pump runnign without the boiler firing up, perhaps?



--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
.. .
"John" wrote in message
...

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
Think our ageing Ocean FF combi (sorry, can't see any identifying
model
mark
other than this and the serial no. on or in the casework) is telling
us
that
it needs some care and attention, or that we ought to speed up our
replacement plans....

For a couple of days I had noticed that the hot tap needed to be
turned
further and further on before the boiler would fire into action.
Yesterday
morning it decided that no amount of flow was going to wake it up.

The boiler has a selector switch for DHW only or Heating and DHW. I
turned
this to DHW only and then back to the DHW + Heating setting, and all
was
fine again - boiler sparks into action immediately now when the hot
tap
is
opened (it's mounted on the kitchen wall, about 1m pipe run from the
hot
tap).

However, the heating refuses to fire up at all now. All thermostats
checked
and set to max for the moment - they are definitely both past the
"heating
on" clicks.

The pump is slightly warm to the touch, and I have tried the normal
percussive attack on it and twisting the spindle doesnt seem to make
any
difference.

Any hints on where to start with diagnosis/fix?


IMHO this is one of lifes nasty fiddly repair jobs. Fortunately it is
likely
to be a diaphragm assembly which has failed and a service kit is fairly
readily available. Fitting it is another matter and bits fall out
everywhere
when you start to open up the diverter block G
Good luck!


Thanks - sorry for not responding sooner but my ISP's news server hasn't
replicated any new articles for the past two days (I did see them from a
free - ie no post permissions - server that I use but couldn't respond).

What I'm seeing after further investigation is no voltage at the pump when
the heating should be on. I would have thought that the first thing that
gets fired up when switching the heating on is the pump, and the boiler
then
kicks into action from a flow sensor on the heating circuit - ie fail-safe
in case of problems with the pump. Perhaps this is not the case though.

Why would you suspect the diaphragm assembly? (just curious as to the
diagnosis)


Based on the build up period where you had to run more and more "hot" flow
to get the boiler to start. I'm guessing the diverter assembly has now stuck
in a mid to hot water only position. Only a guess from afar at this juncture
I'm afraid. Of course it might be something else entirely but then again you
could have two simultaneous faults :-(
Personally I'm not at all impressed by the model you have. Lets hope the
latest output currently being promoted from this manufacturer is built of
sterner stuff

"John" wrote in message
...

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
.. .
"John" wrote in message
...

snip


IMHO this is one of lifes nasty fiddly repair jobs. Fortunately it is
likely
to be a diaphragm assembly which has failed and a service kit is
fairly
readily available. Fitting it is another matter and bits fall out
everywhere
when you start to open up the diverter block G
Good luck!


Thanks - sorry for not responding sooner but my ISP's news server hasn't
replicated any new articles for the past two days (I did see them from a
free - ie no post permissions - server that I use but couldn't respond).

What I'm seeing after further investigation is no voltage at the pump
when
the heating should be on. I would have thought that the first thing that
gets fired up when switching the heating on is the pump, and the boiler
then
kicks into action from a flow sensor on the heating circuit - ie
fail-safe
in case of problems with the pump. Perhaps this is not the case though.

Why would you suspect the diaphragm assembly? (just curious as to the
diagnosis)


Based on the build up period where you had to run more and more "hot" flow
to get the boiler to start. I'm guessing the diverter assembly has now
stuck
in a mid to hot water only position. Only a guess from afar at this
juncture
I'm afraid. Of course it might be something else entirely but then again
you
could have two simultaneous faults :-(
Personally I'm not at all impressed by the model you have. Lets hope the
latest output currently being promoted from this manufacturer is built of
sterner stuff



OK, thanks, that sounds reasonable.

No, I'm not particularly impressed with this model, but it is now quite
old - I am guessing 10 to 12 years, could be more.

Replacement is on the cards, but I have now got a service call booked (the
thing burst into action again last night) with a heating engineer, so
hopefully it will last for a couple of months until I can get the cash
together for something rather better.

Vaillant and Wocester-Bosch condersers look most likely at the moment.....


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

On Mon, 05 Apr 2004 18:41:53 +0000, John wrote:


"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
.. .
"John" wrote in message
...

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
Think our ageing Ocean FF combi (sorry, can't see any identifying
model
mark
other than this and the serial no. on or in the casework) is telling
us
that
it needs some care and attention, or that we ought to speed up our
replacement plans....

For a couple of days I had noticed that the hot tap needed to be
turned
further and further on before the boiler would fire into action.
Yesterday
morning it decided that no amount of flow was going to wake it up.

The boiler has a selector switch for DHW only or Heating and DHW. I
turned
this to DHW only and then back to the DHW + Heating setting, and all
was
fine again - boiler sparks into action immediately now when the hot
tap
is
opened (it's mounted on the kitchen wall, about 1m pipe run from the
hot
tap).

However, the heating refuses to fire up at all now. All thermostats
checked
and set to max for the moment - they are definitely both past the
"heating
on" clicks.

The pump is slightly warm to the touch, and I have tried the normal
percussive attack on it and twisting the spindle doesnt seem to make
any
difference.

Any hints on where to start with diagnosis/fix?


IMHO this is one of lifes nasty fiddly repair jobs. Fortunately it is
likely
to be a diaphragm assembly which has failed and a service kit is fairly
readily available. Fitting it is another matter and bits fall out
everywhere
when you start to open up the diverter block G
Good luck!


Thanks - sorry for not responding sooner but my ISP's news server hasn't
replicated any new articles for the past two days (I did see them from a
free - ie no post permissions - server that I use but couldn't respond).

What I'm seeing after further investigation is no voltage at the pump when
the heating should be on. I would have thought that the first thing that
gets fired up when switching the heating on is the pump, and the boiler
then
kicks into action from a flow sensor on the heating circuit - ie fail-safe
in case of problems with the pump. Perhaps this is not the case though.

Why would you suspect the diaphragm assembly? (just curious as to the
diagnosis)


Based on the build up period where you had to run more and more "hot" flow
to get the boiler to start. I'm guessing the diverter assembly has now stuck
in a mid to hot water only position. Only a guess from afar at this juncture
I'm afraid. Of course it might be something else entirely but then again you
could have two simultaneous faults :-(
Personally I'm not at all impressed by the model you have. Lets hope the
latest output currently being promoted from this manufacturer is built of
sterner stuff

Is this model one where the diverter valve is operated directly form the
DHW flow, so that if the diverter valve sticks then DHW mode is not
attained?

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
"John" wrote in message
...

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
.. .
"John" wrote in message
...

snip


IMHO this is one of lifes nasty fiddly repair jobs. Fortunately it
is
likely
to be a diaphragm assembly which has failed and a service kit is
fairly
readily available. Fitting it is another matter and bits fall out
everywhere
when you start to open up the diverter block G
Good luck!


Thanks - sorry for not responding sooner but my ISP's news server
hasn't
replicated any new articles for the past two days (I did see them from
a
free - ie no post permissions - server that I use but couldn't
respond).

What I'm seeing after further investigation is no voltage at the pump
when
the heating should be on. I would have thought that the first thing
that
gets fired up when switching the heating on is the pump, and the
boiler
then
kicks into action from a flow sensor on the heating circuit - ie
fail-safe
in case of problems with the pump. Perhaps this is not the case
though.

Why would you suspect the diaphragm assembly? (just curious as to the
diagnosis)


Based on the build up period where you had to run more and more "hot"
flow
to get the boiler to start. I'm guessing the diverter assembly has now
stuck
in a mid to hot water only position. Only a guess from afar at this
juncture
I'm afraid. Of course it might be something else entirely but then again
you
could have two simultaneous faults :-(
Personally I'm not at all impressed by the model you have. Lets hope the
latest output currently being promoted from this manufacturer is built
of
sterner stuff



OK, thanks, that sounds reasonable.

No, I'm not particularly impressed with this model, but it is now quite
old - I am guessing 10 to 12 years, could be more.

Replacement is on the cards, but I have now got a service call booked (the
thing burst into action again last night) with a heating engineer, so
hopefully it will last for a couple of months until I can get the cash
together for something rather better.

Vaillant and Wocester-Bosch condersers look most likely at the moment.....



Take a look at the Glow Worm 30 models in either condensing version or non
condensing version