I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what
tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect
the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't
the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold
environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a
short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back
boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

TIA.

--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

Sneezy wrote:

I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what
tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect

I would suggest you use two F-Plugs (these make a much better connection
than the normal Belling Lee type of aerial plugs), and a Female/Female
F-socket joiner. You will also need some self amalgamating tape.

F-plugs are very easy to fit if you get the twist on ones. Once fitted
to the cable they then screw into the f coupler so there is no chance of
it pulling apart. Finally cocoon it in self amalgamating tape - that
will ensure it is water proof.

Maplin order codes: FU04E, FE92A, KW29G

the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't
the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold

If you want the best quality co-ax then look for CT100 or compatible
cable (in addition to the usual braided screen it also has a foil screen
and hence is much less susceptible to interference). Maplin, CPC, and
Screwfix stock it. Maplin will sell it by the meter which may be better
if you don't need much.

Maplin order code XS16S

environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a
short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back
boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

Most wall plates fit onto standard electrical accessory back boxes or
"pattresses ".

Maplin order code VW96E, YB15R

If you are planning to use the TV aerial feed for digital TV (i.e.
freeview) then make sure the socket you get is also fully screened. It
is also easy enough to make your own using a female/female joining
connector like that described above mounted in a hole drilled in an
electrical accessory blanking plate (order code HL86T). You simply
terminate the downlead in a f-plug - and connect it to the coupler
inside the box (you may need to use a right angled f-plug to get it to
fit inside the box). The connect your fly lead to the front of the box
with another f-plug.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 02:33:45 +0000, Sneezy wrote:

I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what
tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to
connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I
haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp,
cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up
a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back
boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

TIA.

Maplins sell a coaxial joining connector. Much better than trying to solder inner
and outer. Or put a coax plug on both ends and use an inline coupler. Dont
be tempted as I have seen many times, to just twist the wire together or
use choc block UGH!!

HTH

Dave
--
And you were born knowing all about ms windows....??

In article 24,
Sneezy wrote:
I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a
short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back
boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

Eh? Just about any wiring accessory maker lists TV and or FM aerial
outlets to match their 13 amp sockets etc that fit a standard one gang
box. Even the sheds stock them.

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

John Rumm wrote in
:

Sneezy wrote:

I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea
what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable
to connect

I would suggest you use two F-Plugs (these make a much better
connection than the normal Belling Lee type of aerial plugs), and a
Female/Female F-socket joiner. You will also need some self
amalgamating tape.

F-plugs are very easy to fit if you get the twist on ones. Once fitted
to the cable they then screw into the f coupler so there is no chance
of it pulling apart. Finally cocoon it in self amalgamating tape -
that will ensure it is water proof.

Maplin order codes: FU04E, FE92A, KW29G

the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I
haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a
damp, cold

If you want the best quality co-ax then look for CT100 or compatible
cable (in addition to the usual braided screen it also has a foil
screen and hence is much less susceptible to interference). Maplin,
CPC, and Screwfix stock it. Maplin will sell it by the meter which may
be better if you don't need much.

Maplin order code XS16S

environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up
a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with
back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

Most wall plates fit onto standard electrical accessory back boxes or
"pattresses ".

Maplin order code VW96E, YB15R

If you are planning to use the TV aerial feed for digital TV (i.e.
freeview) then make sure the socket you get is also fully screened. It
is also easy enough to make your own using a female/female joining
connector like that described above mounted in a hole drilled in an
electrical accessory blanking plate (order code HL86T). You simply
terminate the downlead in a f-plug - and connect it to the coupler
inside the box (you may need to use a right angled f-plug to get it to
fit inside the box). The connect your fly lead to the front of the box
with another f-plug.


Great - many thanks.

--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

Dave Plowman wrote in
:

In article 24,
Sneezy wrote:
I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a
short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back
boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

Eh? Just about any wiring accessory maker lists TV and or FM aerial
outlets to match their 13 amp sockets etc that fit a standard one gang
box. Even the sheds stock them.


Yes but more often than not with online sites the plate and box are in
different sections of the site and info on compatability is thin on the
ground. I have a habit of buying things that don't fit DIY stores are
too expensive - B & Q being a case in point: my mate had to buy 5m of wire
when he only wanted 1.

--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

In article 21,
Sneezy wrote:
Yes but more often than not with online sites the plate and box are in
different sections of the site and info on compatability is thin on the
ground.

If you mean the depth of the box, play it safe and use 35 mm deep boxes
for everything - they make wiring easier, and are little different to
chase in.

I have a habit of buying things that don't fit DIY stores are too
expensive - B & Q being a case in point: my mate had to buy 5m of wire
when he only wanted 1.

My local one sells most cables by the metre. But I tend to buy full drums
of just about any cable - it gets used eventually. ;-)

--
*Marathon runners with bad footwear suffer the agony of defeat.*

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 20:07:09 +0000 (GMT), in uk.d-i-y Dave Plowman
strung together this:

In article 21,
Sneezy wrote:
Yes but more often than not with online sites the plate and box are in
different sections of the site and info on compatability is thin on the
ground.

If you mean the depth of the box, play it safe and use 35 mm deep boxes
for everything - they make wiring easier, and are little different to
chase in.

35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved
for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for
sockets, tv points etc..
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

In article ,
Lurch wrote:
If you mean the depth of the box, play it safe and use 35 mm deep boxes
for everything - they make wiring easier, and are little different to
chase in.

35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved
for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for
sockets, tv points etc..

While 1 inch may be suitable for most of these things at a pinch, deep
boxes are usually easier to fix - especially to plasterboard, etc. And
co-ax doesn't like being bent tightly. Also, there's far less chance of
trapped wires with deep boxes - although this will depend to some extent
on the make of fitting.

--
*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Sneezy wrote in
22.124:

I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea
what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable
to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable
and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be
in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate
connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall
but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any
advice?


One final thing - is co-ax like electrical cable in that you can
cut/strip it with a sharp knife or do you need a (pricey) stripper thing?
I'm assuming that you remove the insulation, leaving just the inner copper
wire, when fitting the connectors.

--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

Dave Plowman wrote in
:

In article 21,
Sneezy wrote:

I have a habit of buying things that don't fit DIY stores are too
expensive - B & Q being a case in point: my mate had to buy 5m of wire
when he only wanted 1.

My local one sells most cables by the metre. But I tend to buy full drums
of just about any cable - it gets used eventually. ;-)


Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - can't
think why :-/ We did ask but we were told that the eletrician didn't start
til 5 and no one else could help. Customer service huh

--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

Sneezy wrote in message . 222.124...
I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what
tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect
the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't
the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold
environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a
short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back
boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice?

In addition to what others have said....
You don't say exactly why you want to need to cut and rejoin (maybe
twice?) the co-ax; but if there's a way of extending te cable to where
you need it without doing this (ie by replacing it with a longer
length) then go for it. There's a good chance you could reduce your
picture quality by introducing joints; best avoided if possible.

David

In article , Lurch
wrote:

35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved
for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for
sockets, tv points etc..

It depends. For digital feeds it is more important to not kink the cable, so
the extra depth of a 35mm box can be useful.

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

In article ,
Lurch wrote:
35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved
for use with cooker switches and the like.

Just following up as I'm still not fully metric, I tend to use 45mm boxes
for cookers - I hate having to cram in wires.

I've noticed when fixing 'pro' installations that many sparks cut the
tails so short it's difficult to get at the screws without standing on
your head, and that the fault I've been fixing was due to a loose
connection. And with short tails if the wire is damaged as it often is,
it's a bigger repair job.

--
*That's it! I‘m calling grandma!

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Sneezy" wrote
| Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason -
| can't think why :-/

Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm
that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m
when they only need 3.

Owain

In article ,
Owain wrote:
Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm
that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock.

Given the mark up on cut lengths, I'd think they'd taken this into
consideration.

Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3.

Wonder what the mark up is on these sort of cut lengths?

--
*You sound reasonable......time to up my medication

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Sneezy wrote in message . 222.124...
Sneezy wrote in
22.124:

I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea
what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable
to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable
and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be
in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate
connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall
but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any
advice?


One final thing - is co-ax like electrical cable in that you can
cut/strip it with a sharp knife or do you need a (pricey) stripper thing?
I'm assuming that you remove the insulation, leaving just the inner copper
wire, when fitting the connectors.

Coax has 4 parts:
inner copper conductor
thick insulation
outer concentric copper conductor
outer PVC cover

You must join inner to inner and outer to outer. Avoid any litle
floating wires that can short it all. DOnt just twist the wires as
they will oxidise, screw connect or solder.

A knife is fine. No need to pay for a pricey stripper.

But one word: coax joins in damp places have a habit of corroding and
failing. So waterproof it really thoroughly.


Regards, NT

On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 14:04:48 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman
wrote:

Wonder what the mark up is on these sort of cut lengths?

Significant I'd say.

I usually like to buy my cable by the drum rather than by metre
length. However given the changes introduced with part P I will soon
have no need of cable as I won't be able to take the jobs on.

PoP

---
If you need to contact me please submit your comments
via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk. I'll
probably still ignore you but at least I'll get the
message.....

"Owain" wrote in message
...
"Sneezy" wrote
| Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason -
| can't think why :-/

Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm
that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy
5m
when they only need 3.


Well they only need to employ 'till idiots' who can use a tape measure and
all their problems should be solved, and those of the customer trying to pay
!...

(Lobster) wrote in
om:

Sneezy wrote in message
. 222.124...
I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea
what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable
to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable
and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be
in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate
connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall
but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any
advice?

In addition to what others have said....
You don't say exactly why you want to need to cut and rejoin (maybe
twice?) the co-ax; but if there's a way of extending te cable to where
you need it without doing this (ie by replacing it with a longer
length) then go for it. There's a good chance you could reduce your
picture quality by introducing joints; best avoided if possible.


Once upon a time the cellar had a window and said co-ax went through the
cellar window frame. "They" knocked out the window and bricked it up,
leaving about a metre of window frame hanging on the co-ax. I think it's
either the gas pipe or the cold water pipe (can't recall off the top of my
head) that holds the weight otherwise the co-ax would be ripped from the
cellar ceiling. The co-ax comes down the outside wall from the aerial on
the roof, in through the cellar wall, across the cellar ceiling and up into
the living room. I had a go at cutting the wood but it's a dead loss - it
moves too much and I don't like the strain it puts on the pipe :-S I wanted
to avoid messing with the cable but I don't have much choice A power
tool of some sorts might help but probably not in my hands , plus it
would be tricky to wield such a tool without going through the cable
anyway!


--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

"Owain" wrote in
:

"Sneezy" wrote
| Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason -
| can't think why :-/

Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110
cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make
people buy 5m when they only need 3.


Yup. And how many people nick a handful of cable clips from the box, or a
tap washer from a packet of assorted washers... It just grated a bit -
having to buy 5m when we only needed 1m. Actually, we needed about 10cm - I
cut the fitted plug off a fridge, threaded the cable through a worktop, put
a new plug on and discovered that it no longer reached the plug socket
Much swearing ensued I was doing it for my mate who can't see so well.
So it was off to B & Q for all the bits necessary to extend the cable. All
in about £5 vanished on a connector box and cable!

The markup on cable more than covers loses. Your average home user can't
justify buying 100m of cable when they only need 1 or 2m and aren't likely
to ever need the cable again. I know I can't.


--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

Sneezy wrote:
"Owain" wrote in
:

"Sneezy" wrote
Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason -
can't think why :-/

Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110
cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make
people buy 5m when they only need 3.


Yup. And how many people nick a handful of cable clips from the box,
or a tap washer from a packet of assorted washers... It just grated a
bit - having to buy 5m when we only needed 1m. Actually, we needed
about 10cm - I cut the fitted plug off a fridge, threaded the cable
through a worktop, put a new plug on and discovered that it no longer
reached the plug socket Much swearing ensued I was doing it for
my mate who can't see so well. So it was off to B & Q for all the
bits necessary to extend the cable. All in about £5 vanished on a
connector box and cable!

Surely you'd have been better off buying a cheap extension lead and doing
the joining under the wortop. I wouldn't dare suggest just using the
extension lead through the worktop as a permanent means of connecting the
appliance in this NG.

--
James...
www.jameshart.co.uk

On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 08:51:22 +0000, in uk.d-i-y "Andy Luckman (AJL
Electronics)" strung together this:

In article , Lurch
wrote:

35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved
for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for
sockets, tv points etc..

It depends. For digital feeds it is more important to not kink the cable, so
the extra depth of a 35mm box can be useful.

I did actually think of that today, whilst fitting a new plate to
digital tv system. I was going to follow it up when I got back in with
the insertion of the word 'most' before sockets, tv points etc..
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

"James Hart" wrote in news:c44icj$2digii$1@ID-
76251.news.uni-berlin.de:

Sneezy wrote:
"Owain" wrote in
:

"Sneezy" wrote
Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason -
can't think why :-/

Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110
cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make
people buy 5m when they only need 3.


Yup. And how many people nick a handful of cable clips from the box,
or a tap washer from a packet of assorted washers... It just grated a
bit - having to buy 5m when we only needed 1m. Actually, we needed
about 10cm - I cut the fitted plug off a fridge, threaded the cable
through a worktop, put a new plug on and discovered that it no longer
reached the plug socket Much swearing ensued I was doing it for
my mate who can't see so well. So it was off to B & Q for all the
bits necessary to extend the cable. All in about £5 vanished on a
connector box and cable!

Surely you'd have been better off buying a cheap extension lead and doing
the joining under the wortop. I wouldn't dare suggest just using the
extension lead through the worktop as a permanent means of connecting the
appliance in this NG.


Well, since I was doing the work for him it makes him the customer. What
the customer wants, the customer gets - they are, after all, always right
The connector box is hidden under the worktop and there's plenty of
slack to pull the fridge out if needs be. My suggestion was to drill out a
hole in the worktop that would allow the plug to pass through - I've done
this myself at my old flat - but he didn't want a big hole. I have issues
with hidden extension leads - I just don't think of them as safe. Far
better to have the extension in view. Maybe I need help


--
john

"Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what
they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." -
Putt's Law

In article ,
Jerry. wrote:
Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110
cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make
people buy
5m
when they only need 3.


Well they only need to employ 'till idiots' who can use a tape measure
and all their problems should be solved, and those of the customer
trying to pay

I bought some polythene tube the other day by the metre at B&Q. They look
it up in a catalogue which has life sized pics to help them identify it -
and a bar code to scan. But she just asked me how long it was - didn't
actually check. Real performance cutting it - all they had was a dirty
great hydraulic job for steel chains, etc, when I expected snips on a
chain. Perhaps someone cut the chain for the snips with the hydraulic
cutter...

--
*Puritanism: The haunting fear that someone, somewhere may be happy.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jerry. wrote:
Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110
cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make
people buy
5m
when they only need 3.


Well they only need to employ 'till idiots' who can use a tape measure
and all their problems should be solved, and those of the customer
trying to pay

I bought some polythene tube the other day by the metre at B&Q. They look
it up in a catalogue which has life sized pics to help them identify it -
and a bar code to scan.

My local one, since much improved, had catalogues with actual off cuts stuck
to the page, didn't stop the 'till idiot' getting it wrong on more than one
occasion !

But she just asked me how long it was - didn't
actually check. Real performance cutting it - all they had was a dirty
great hydraulic job for steel chains, etc, when I expected snips on a
chain. Perhaps someone cut the chain for the snips with the hydraulic
cutter...


I'm not sure what system they have now, but at one time they had both the
hydraulic cutter and snipes padlocked with a sign telling customers to ask
for assistance - trouble was finding someone who had the keys. As I said,
the store is much improved, internally rebuilt and extended, they had to
either improve or close I suspect....

"Dave Plowman" wrote
| Real performance cutting it - all they had was a dirty
| great hydraulic job for steel chains, etc, when I
| expected snips on a chain.
| Perhaps someone cut the chain for the snips with the
| hydraulic cutter...

I'd assumed that snips on a chain now contravened the elfin sayftee
reggerlashuns. Thou shalt not have anything in they shop with which a pure
sweet innocent unattended child might disfinger itself.

Owain

In article ,
Owain wrote:
I'd assumed that snips on a chain now contravened the elfin sayftee
reggerlashuns. Thou shalt not have anything in they shop with which a
pure sweet innocent unattended child might disfinger itself.

Pity. I'd hoped it might get those not run over by the fork lift trucks.

--
*Work is for people who don't know how to fish.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn