I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (£20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

With this item, neither of the batteries seems to hold its charge.
I've put both on charge for about 15 hours, and the drill will only
run for about ten minutes before it grinds to a halt. Same applies to
both batteries.

Anyone else had the same experience with Nu-Tool cordless drills?
This one is 24Volt and the output current of the charger is 2.5 amps.

Thanks

Frank

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, in uk.d-i-y
(Frank) strung together this:


I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (£20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

With this item, neither of the batteries seems to hold its charge.
I've put both on charge for about 15 hours, and the drill will only
run for about ten minutes before it grinds to a halt. Same applies to
both batteries.

Anyone else had the same experience with Nu-Tool cordless drills?
This one is 24Volt and the output current of the charger is 2.5 amps.

Sounds like a knackered charger.
Take the whole lot back and get a replacement\refund.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

"Frank" wrote in message
...

I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (£20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

With this item, neither of the batteries seems to hold its charge.
I've put both on charge for about 15 hours, and the drill will only
run for about ten minutes before it grinds to a halt. Same applies to
both batteries.

Anyone else had the same experience with Nu-Tool cordless drills?
This one is 24Volt and the output current of the charger is 2.5 amps.

Thanks

Frank

You have already stated the problem .... it was cheap. Buy cheap - buy
twice. Lately NuTool stuff has become crap.

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, (Frank) wrote:

I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (£20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

Sounds like the drill I have, which I bought at Makro about 6 months
ago. Runs like a good 'un, so I suspect you may have a charger problem
with yours.

Take it back - Makro's are very good about exchanges I've found.

PoP

---
If you need to contact me please submit your comments
via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk. I'll
probably still ignore you but at least I'll get the
message.....

"PJO" wrote in message


You have already stated the problem .... it was cheap. Buy cheap - buy
twice.

He stated the problem wasn't fishy but he didn't quite finger it. What
he aught to try is an electric eel.




--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:35:58 +-0000, PoP wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, (Frank) wrote:

I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (+AKM-20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

I think some of these cheaper drills use NiCad's rather than the more
modern NiMH cells. Have you 'cycled' the batteries Frank?

I'm not convinced it's the problem in this case (as other posters have
suggested it's possibly the charger)

Do the batteries get warm at any time under charge (they may not if
it's an 'overnight' charger)?

I bought a 'cheap' cordless (24V) drill recently (to suppliment my
DeWalt) but I made sure it had two batteries AND an auto charger. The
batteries take a bout 90 mins to charge and the
charge-from-flat-to-cuttoff time is a good indicator to how things are
going.

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:35:58 +0000, PoP wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, (Frank) wrote:

I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (?20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

I think some of these cheaper drills use NiCad's rather than the more
modern NiMH cells. Have you 'cycled' the batteries Frank?

NiMH cells don't really like fast discharge, so are not the
best choice in all cases.

On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:03:01 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

T i m wrote:
On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:35:58 , PoP wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, (Frank) wrote:

I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (?20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

I think some of these cheaper drills use NiCad's rather than the more
modern NiMH cells. Have you 'cycled' the batteries Frank?

NiMH cells don't really like fast discharge, so are not the
best choice in all cases.

Probably not .. I know the 3000mA sub 'C' NiMH Sanyo's in my 12th
scale Yokomo MR4TC (4wd model touring car) that go from fresh charge
to flat in a 5 min race do end up quite warm!

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:03:01 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

T i m wrote:
On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:35:58 , PoP wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, (Frank) wrote:

I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (?20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

I think some of these cheaper drills use NiCad's rather than the more
modern NiMH cells. Have you 'cycled' the batteries Frank?

NiMH cells don't really like fast discharge, so are not the
best choice in all cases.

Probably not .. I know the 3000mA sub 'C' NiMH Sanyo's in my 12th
scale Yokomo MR4TC (4wd model touring car) that go from fresh charge
to flat in a 5 min race do end up quite warm!

How many cycles, before a cell/most cells fail?

Some power tools approach this sort of drain.

Ian Stirling wrote:

T i m wrote:

On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:03:01 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:


T i m wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:35:58 , PoP wrote:


On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:08:58 GMT, (Frank) wrote:


I bought a cordles drill from Makro the other week. Brand name:
"Nu-Tool". Admittedly it was cheap (?20, including two hefty
batteries). But I've had other cheap Nu-Tool tools which have been
fine.

I think some of these cheaper drills use NiCad's rather than the more
modern NiMH cells. Have you 'cycled' the batteries Frank?

NiMH cells don't really like fast discharge, so are not the
best choice in all cases.

Probably not .. I know the 3000mA sub 'C' NiMH Sanyo's in my 12th
scale Yokomo MR4TC (4wd model touring car) that go from fresh charge
to flat in a 5 min race do end up quite warm!


How many cycles, before a cell/most cells fail?

Some power tools approach this sort of drain.


NiMh are more easily destroyed by over discharging
NiMh cells go flat all by themselves in a few weeks.

NiMh cells are junk IMHO.

On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:39:04 +0000, in uk.d-i-y The Natural
Philosopher strung together this:

NiMh cells go flat all by themselves in a few weeks.

NiMh cells are junk IMHO.

I had a fully charged NiMh cell left on the side hold its charge for 6
months.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:57:05 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:


NiMH cells don't really like fast discharge, so are not the
best choice in all cases.

Probably not .. I know the 3000mA sub 'C' NiMH Sanyo's in my 12th
scale Yokomo MR4TC (4wd model touring car) that go from fresh charge
to flat in a 5 min race do end up quite warm!

How many cycles, before a cell/most cells fail?

[T] Em, not sure .. I was racing several sets all season (once a
month, all year) at that pace and didn't have a cell fail? In fact in
my 30 years or RC car racing (sponsered driver for some of that) I've
never had a cell fail? I have seen others have cells fail, I've
marshalled a car that just turned into a heap of glowing red wires in
a matter of seconds but I've still got packs Nicad and NiMH that are a
good few years old and are still going strong?

The 'top boys' generally only run each pack once / day but at 50 quid
a pack and possibly 8 rounds plus finals / race day *I* had to
recharge all the time?

Mind you, the 'pits' have changed quite a bit over the years .. looks
more like a lab at NASA these days with all the digital delta peak /
fan cooled charging stations and comm turning lathes .. ! (some folk
actuallt strip the motor, skim the com, rebuild / lube the motor,
solder in a new pair of brushes ..and solder the motor back into the
model (connectors waste power) after EVERY 5 min heat!

Some power tools approach this sort of drain.

Ooo err .. The only other things I know that can kill a battery in no
time flat are some digital cameras?

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:

month, all year) at that pace and didn't have a cell fail? In fact in
my 30 years or RC car racing (sponsered driver for some of that) I've
never had a cell fail? I have seen others have cells fail, I've

Reminds me of when a friend built a small (i.e. under 1kg) fast electric
boat using some NiCd cells he recovered from an old (pro video) camera
battery belt...

Worked really well until one of the cells vented under full load. This
resulted in one of the most impressive sinkings I have ever seen!
Picture this tiny craft speeding along at 20mph - a loud BANG! - and
craft transitions from that forward speed, to an instant vertical
descent! Bit like a Harrier VIFFing in reverse!

The release of gas from the cell burst the hull / deck joint almost the
full length of the boat, starting at the bow - opening it up like a
crocodile's mouth - spoilt the hydrodynamics a bit!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 03:58:46 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

T i m wrote:

month, all year) at that pace and didn't have a cell fail? In fact in
my 30 years or RC car racing (sponsered driver for some of that) I've
never had a cell fail? I have seen others have cells fail, I've

Reminds me of when a friend built a small (i.e. under 1kg) fast electric
boat using some NiCd cells he recovered from an old (pro video) camera
battery belt...

Worked really well until one of the cells vented under full load. This
resulted in one of the most impressive sinkings I have ever seen!
Picture this tiny craft speeding along at 20mph - a loud BANG! - and
craft transitions from that forward speed, to an instant vertical
descent! Bit like a Harrier VIFFing in reverse!

The release of gas from the cell burst the hull / deck joint almost the
full length of the boat, starting at the bow - opening it up like a
crocodile's mouth - spoilt the hydrodynamics a bit!

Nice!

I think the venting arangement on these cells is much better theese
days!

As I said, I have seen other folk get into trouble with cells and I've
melted a pack in the old days before auto chargers.

A mate had a cell explode in his 12th Electricar (back in the Ally
pally days). The 'built in' packs would br run, be charged, run, be
charged and as we had low club numbers at the beginning not enough
racers to make more than one heat! (to give the cars a break inbetween
races).

All the best ..

T i m