I'm installing an automatic air vent in the 22mm feed pipe to a shower pump.
The vent uses a 1/2" to 15mm connection. I was told the neatest way would be
to use a 22-15mm reducer in the 22mm equal tee, off which is the vent.

I've never used these before so some advise would be appreciated. I can see
that it replaces the 22 mm olive, but I'm not sure which way up it should
be. The obvious way has the reducer flush with the back edge of the 22mm nut
when assembled, the other has it sticking proud about 5-8mm.

My other question is how is the seal made with the 15mm pipe which inserts
into the reducer. Does the reducer act as an olive and compress onto the
pipe. This seems unlikely because it looks quite solid brass not capable of
being crushed upto the 15mm pipe.

thanks





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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Justin jsheldon@ remove me lineone.net wrote:

I'm installing an automatic air vent in the 22mm feed pipe to a
shower pump. The vent uses a 1/2" to 15mm connection. I was told the
neatest way would be to use a 22-15mm reducer in the 22mm equal tee,
off which is the vent.

I've never used these before so some advise would be appreciated. I
can see that it replaces the 22 mm olive, but I'm not sure which way
up it should be. The obvious way has the reducer flush with the back
edge of the 22mm nut when assembled, the other has it sticking proud
about 5-8mm.

My other question is how is the seal made with the 15mm pipe which
inserts into the reducer. Does the reducer act as an olive and
compress onto the pipe. This seems unlikely because it looks quite
solid brass not capable of being crushed upto the 15mm pipe.

thanks


Don't really know - never used a reducer. What's wrong with a 22x22x15 tee?
Much neater!
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Cheers,
Set Square
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On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 16:51:18 +0000, Justin wrote:

I'm installing an automatic air vent in the 22mm feed pipe to a shower pump.
The vent uses a 1/2" to 15mm connection. I was told the neatest way would be
to use a 22-15mm reducer in the 22mm equal tee, off which is the vent.

I've never used these before so some advise would be appreciated. I can see
that it replaces the 22 mm olive, but I'm not sure which way up it should
be. The obvious way has the reducer flush with the back edge of the 22mm nut
when assembled, the other has it sticking proud about 5-8mm.

My other question is how is the seal made with the 15mm pipe which inserts
into the reducer. Does the reducer act as an olive and compress onto the
pipe. This seems unlikely because it looks quite solid brass not capable of
being crushed upto the 15mm pipe.

thanks

There are two styles (at least) of reducer.
One is in three parts with two
brass parts which these can only be instered the right way, they clamp
doen on a bog standard 15mm olive.

The other is a single brass peice which again can only be fitted the right
way and has a (very much) thinner section in the middle whcih nips the
pipe and makes a seal.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

The other is a single brass peice which again can only be fitted the right
way and has a (very much) thinner section in the middle whcih nips the
pipe and makes a seal.

This is it. When its flush you cant see the reducer, it completely flush
with the back of the nut, so it just as tidy as a 22x22x15 tee, plus I don't
have to un-assemble the existing joint.



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"Justin" jsheldon@ remove me lineone.net wrote in message
...
I'm installing an automatic air vent in the 22mm feed pipe to a shower
pump.
The vent uses a 1/2" to 15mm connection. I was told the neatest way would
be
to use a 22-15mm reducer in the 22mm equal tee, off which is the vent.

I've never used these before so some advise would be appreciated. I can
see
that it replaces the 22 mm olive, but I'm not sure which way up it should
be. The obvious way has the reducer flush with the back edge of the 22mm
nut
when assembled, the other has it sticking proud about 5-8mm.

My other question is how is the seal made with the 15mm pipe which inserts
into the reducer. Does the reducer act as an olive and compress onto the
pipe. This seems unlikely because it looks quite solid brass not capable
of
being crushed upto the 15mm pipe.

thanks





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Hi Justin,

Just curious here, why are you adding an AAV? Do the pump manufacturers
require it? The only reason I ask is..... the feed to a pump will be under
negative pressure when the pump is running, an AAV in the pump feed will let
air into the system when the pump is running.

BillP.

Hi Justin,

Just curious here, why are you adding an AAV? Do the pump manufacturers
require it? The only reason I ask is..... the feed to a pump will be
under
negative pressure when the pump is running, an AAV in the pump feed will
let
air into the system when the pump is running.

BillP.

You may have a point. I was copying the installation at my girlfriends, I
best double check where the vents are on her pump. But wouldn't the head of
water keep the feed under +ve pressure ? Both the cold and hot are 22mm
pipe. The AAV will be on a 15mm stub out of the top of the Tee


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"Justin" jsheldon@ remove me lineone.net wrote in message
...
..But wouldn't the head of
water keep the feed under +ve pressure ? Both the cold and hot are 22mm
pipe. The AAV will be on a 15mm stub out of the top of the Tee

Hi Justin,

Maybe, not too sure what the dynamics of the system would be.I've just got a
feeling that it would tend to draw air in. I've not yet seen a manufacturers
installation guide requiring the addition of an AAV. Do you have the
manufacturers instructions for the pump you are fitting, or are you
following the other install as a guide. Providing the hot and cold feeds to
the pump are made in such a way that air will not be drawn into the system
and the pump is situated at low level, there shouldn't be a need for the
AAV. Unless the manufacturer says different.

"BillP" wrote in message
news

"Justin" jsheldon@ remove me lineone.net wrote in message
...
.But wouldn't the head of
water keep the feed under +ve pressure ? Both the cold and hot are 22mm
pipe. The AAV will be on a 15mm stub out of the top of the Tee

Hi Justin,

Maybe, not too sure what the dynamics of the system would be.I've just got
a
feeling that it would tend to draw air in. I've not yet seen a
manufacturers
installation guide requiring the addition of an AAV. Do you have the
manufacturers instructions for the pump you are fitting, or are you
following the other install as a guide. Providing the hot and cold feeds
to
the pump are made in such a way that air will not be drawn into the system
and the pump is situated at low level, there shouldn't be a need for the
AAV. Unless the manufacturer says different.



I can't seem to find the instructions now, but I've been using the other
install as a guide. I suppose when you first commision the system the vents
help expel the air, but manual vents would do the same.


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"Justin" jsheldon@ remove me lineone.net wrote in message
...

I can't seem to find the instructions now, but I've been using the other
install as a guide. I suppose when you first commision the system the
vents
help expel the air, but manual vents would do the same.


Hi Justin,

Yep, manual vents would be best, but even these should not be necessary. You
would only need vents if you are fitting the pump at high level in the high
point of an inverted U. This is usually a no no with most manufacturers (I
believe there are special pumps made for this purpose but they're not the
usual run of the mill).If you are fitting the pump at low level, bleeds
should not be necessary. Of course, If you want to add manual vents to be
sure, it can't do any harm.

BillP

Hi Justin,

Yep, manual vents would be best, but even these should not be necessary.
You
would only need vents if you are fitting the pump at high level in the
high
point of an inverted U. This is usually a no no with most manufacturers (I
believe there are special pumps made for this purpose but they're not the
usual run of the mill).If you are fitting the pump at low level, bleeds
should not be necessary. Of course, If you want to add manual vents to be
sure, it can't do any harm.

BillP


Decided to fit the vents but on a short stub above the pump on the pressure
side of the pump. The pipe work here goes up from the pump, horizontal for a
short while then down under the floor. The certainloy made filling and
priming the pump a doddle, you could hear the air hissing out as the circuit
filled. I then ran the shower with the power to the pump off to purge any
remaining air. Supprising there was very little drop in flow or pressure
than the previous gravity system.

If I was to do this again I would perhaps save the money and use manual
vents, although I do have peace of mind that any air will be automatically
expelled.

The shower is now a fantastic experience, I've used a 2.25 bar Salamander
whole house pump which allows boosting of just one of the supplies. It
boosts all the hot water downstairs (bathroom is downstairs) , since the
new kitchen tap killed the hot water pressure. I felt like I'd been pressure
washed this morning.


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