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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common 'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from an
electrical wholesaler.
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common 'problem'?

I thought that was how you should do it. The space is to allow
ring main in and ring main out, plus possibly a cable to a single
socket spur. I'd be more annoyed if there wasn't anough space to allow
this.

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from an
electrical wholesaler.


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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common 'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from an
electrical wholesaler.



Care to name the brand and model number of the sockets?


--
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On 12/07/2019 19:20, Andrew wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

I thought that was how you should do it. The space is to allow
ring main in and ring main out, plus possibly a cable to a single
socket spur. I'd be more annoyed if there wasn't anough space to allow
this.


The regs allow for 3 cables without modification. ie no bending double

ISTR BS1363 pt 2


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Adam
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 19:25, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from an
electrical wholesaler.



Care to name the brand and model number of the sockets?



Selectric Square IIRC.


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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 19:20, Andrew wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

I thought that was how you should do it. The space is to allow
ring main in and ring main out, plus possibly a cable to a single
socket spur. I'd be more annoyed if there wasn't anough space to allow
this.


Plenty of space, my bother is that the terminal screw is too narrow
allowing the cable to slip to either side rather than clamping it.
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 19:32, R D S wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:25, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at
either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from an
electrical wholesaler.



Care to name the brand and model number of the sockets?



Selectric Square IIRC.


I know them.

Square wire holder with a round screw.

Put the cables in diagonally into the screw holder and the screw might
grab them.

--
Adam
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 19:37, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:32, R D S wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:25, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw,
the cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at
either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from
an electrical wholesaler.


Care to name the brand and model number of the sockets?



Selectric Square IIRC.


I know them.

Square wire holder with a round screw.

Put the cables in diagonally into the screw holder and the screw might
grab them.


Can't see anything wrong with folding double if only putting a single
wire in.
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 19:36, R D S wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:20, Andrew wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at
either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

I thought that was how you should do it. The space is to allow
ring main in and ring main out, plus possibly a cable to a single
socket spur. I'd be more annoyed if there wasn't anough space to allow
this.


Plenty of space, my bother is that the terminal screw is too narrow
allowing the cable to slip to either side rather than clamping it.


There is probably a crimp terminal you can put on if needed.

Maybe
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/st...27a/dp/CN11386

Never used them myself, maybe ARW has and can advise.

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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 21:09, newshound wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:37, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:32, R D S wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:25, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw,
the cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at
either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from
an electrical wholesaler.


Care to name the brand and model number of the sockets?



Selectric Square IIRC.


I know them.

Square wire holder with a round screw.

Put the cables in diagonally into the screw holder and the screw might
grab them.


Can't see anything wrong with folding double if only putting a single
wire in.


Or could you file the bottom of the screw flat.


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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

R D S wrote :
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the cable
promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either side.


Poor design. Better quality ones have a screw which can almost fill the
terminal hole if screwed all the way in, no space for a cable to
escape.
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 12/07/2019 21:09, newshound wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:37, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:32, R D S wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:25, ARW wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw,
the cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at
either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from
an electrical wholesaler.


Care to name the brand and model number of the sockets?



Selectric Square IIRC.


I know them.

Square wire holder with a round screw.

Put the cables in diagonally into the screw holder and the screw might
grab them.


Can't see anything wrong with folding double if only putting a single
wire in.



Agreed.

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On 12/07/2019 21:51, dennis@home wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:36, R D S wrote:
On 12/07/2019 19:20, Andrew wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw,
the cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at
either side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

I thought that was how you should do it. The space is to allow
ring main in and ring main out, plus possibly a cable to a single
socket spur. I'd be more annoyed if there wasn't anough space to allow
this.


Plenty of space, my bother is that the terminal screw is too narrow
allowing the cable to slip to either side rather than clamping it.


There is probably a crimp terminal you can put on if needed.

Maybe
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/st...27a/dp/CN11386


Never used them myself, maybe ARW has and can advise.


I used loads yesterday. But that was on flex to relays and PSUs -
probably the most unpleasant job I have ever done. Some dick wants mag
locks on some small roller shutter doors to secure them in the open and
closed positions.

No specs, no design just get on with it and it seems no one has tried it
before. The working hours are 10am to 11am and 12.15 pm to 3pm but you
can only work on the outside of the shutters between 12.30pm and 2pm.
All shutters must be left in a working state when you are not working on
them. I also need to mention that it takes 5 minutes to get from the
inside to the outside of the shutters and even when open there is only a
small access panel to pass tools through (you can just get an impact
driver through it). The walls are steel lined ply with insulation in the
cavity.

No access to the internet to learn how to set the limit switches on the
roller shutters (worked that one out on site by trial and error) and no
manual for the shutter door controls (had to "read" the PCB to see how
that worked).

Need an extra tool or part? A trip to the van is a 20 minute round trip.

And it works flawlessly. Only another 7 to do.

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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....



There is probably a crimp terminal you can put on if needed.

Maybe
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/st...27a/dp/CN11386
Never used them myself, maybe ARW has and can advise.


I used loads yesterday. But that was on flex to relays and PSUs - probably
the most unpleasant job I have ever done. Some dick wants mag locks on
some small roller shutter doors to secure them in the open and closed
positions.

No specs, no design just get on with it and it seems no one has tried it
before. The working hours are 10am to 11am and 12.15 pm to 3pm but you can
only work on the outside of the shutters between 12.30pm and 2pm. All
shutters must be left in a working state when you are not working on them.
I also need to mention that it takes 5 minutes to get from the inside to
the outside of the shutters and even when open there is only a small
access panel to pass tools through (you can just get an impact driver
through it). The walls are steel lined ply with insulation in the cavity.

No access to the internet to learn how to set the limit switches on the
roller shutters (worked that one out on site by trial and error) and no
manual for the shutter door controls (had to "read" the PCB to see how
that worked).

Need an extra tool or part? A trip to the van is a 20 minute round trip.

And it works flawlessly. Only another 7 to do.

--
Adam


Has to be a prison - cell doors perhaps - or maybe food serving slots?

Charles F


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On 13/07/2019 07:13, Charles F wrote:

There is probably a crimp terminal you can put on if needed.

Maybe
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/st...27a/dp/CN11386
Never used them myself, maybe ARW has and can advise.


I used loads yesterday. But that was on flex to relays and PSUs - probably
the most unpleasant job I have ever done. Some dick wants mag locks on
some small roller shutter doors to secure them in the open and closed
positions.

No specs, no design just get on with it and it seems no one has tried it
before. The working hours are 10am to 11am and 12.15 pm to 3pm but you can
only work on the outside of the shutters between 12.30pm and 2pm. All
shutters must be left in a working state when you are not working on them.
I also need to mention that it takes 5 minutes to get from the inside to
the outside of the shutters and even when open there is only a small
access panel to pass tools through (you can just get an impact driver
through it). The walls are steel lined ply with insulation in the cavity.

No access to the internet to learn how to set the limit switches on the
roller shutters (worked that one out on site by trial and error) and no
manual for the shutter door controls (had to "read" the PCB to see how
that worked).

Need an extra tool or part? A trip to the van is a 20 minute round trip.

And it works flawlessly. Only another 7 to do.


Has to be a prison - cell doors perhaps - or maybe food serving slots?


Medical servery in a prison.

Everyone should visit one.


--
Adam


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I've seen this as well, but always I find that several months after
installation you need to retighten the screws due to it all relaxing. If
you strip enough and fold it nicely it then grips quite well. I'm
surprised technology has not improved on a screw by now, maybe to a screw
pushing a spring plate system as you can find in some terminal blocks. Those
seem firm as there is no real space for the wire to slip round the side, but
then holes are often not round but rectangular.
Brian

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"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 12/07/2019 18:44, R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.

What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance?
I folded the cable double but not really happy. Is this a common
'problem'?

I thought that was how you should do it. The space is to allow
ring main in and ring main out, plus possibly a cable to a single
socket spur. I'd be more annoyed if there wasn't anough space to allow
this.

Wouldn't mind if i'd got them at the pound shop but they came from an
electrical wholesaler.



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Harry Bloomfield wrote:
R D S wrote :
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the cable
promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either side.


Poor design. Better quality ones have a screw which can almost fill the
terminal hole if screwed all the way in, no space for a cable to
escape.


There seem to me to be very few well designed screw down terminals in
most 'standard' electrical items.

Many in Consumer Units are far too easy to get the wire/bus the wrong
side of the clamping plate. The ones in plugs and sockets often
suffer from the problem the OP describes. Many in junction boxes have
silly round ended grub screws that seem to be the most un-useful shape
they could possibly be.

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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

Brian Gaff brought next idea :
I'm surprised technology has not improved on a screw by now, maybe to a screw
pushing a spring plate system as you can find in some terminal blocks. Those
seem firm as there is no real space for the wire to slip round the side, but
then holes are often not round but rectangular.


It has, some accessory manufacturers use exactly what you describe. A
square socket/hole for the cable, with a metal plate tightened down by
a screw. Whether they are better or not, is debatable - they make it
more complex/ more points of potential failure.

What I particularly hate, is the type which uses a soft metal plate,
which deforms. Undoing the screw and pulling the wire out, leaves the
plate still deformed - so it is difficult to reinsert the wire.
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On 13/07/2019 09:59, Chris Green wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
R D S wrote :
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the cable
promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either side.


Poor design. Better quality ones have a screw which can almost fill the
terminal hole if screwed all the way in, no space for a cable to
escape.


There seem to me to be very few well designed screw down terminals in
most 'standard' electrical items.

Many in Consumer Units are far too easy to get the wire/bus the wrong
side of the clamping plate. The ones in plugs and sockets often
suffer from the problem the OP describes. Many in junction boxes have
silly round ended grub screws that seem to be the most un-useful shape
they could possibly be.


And you cannot get the bus bar the wrong side of MK and Hager MCBs.

--
Adam
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In article ,
R D S wrote:
Bought some sockets today, put the 2.5mm in, tightened the screw, the
cable promptly fell back out as the screw left too much room at either
side.


What would a proper electrician do in this circumstance? I folded the
cable double but not really happy. Is this a common 'problem'?


13 amp sockets are designed for up to three 2.5mm cables. Having just one,
pretty well the rarest siituation. Doubling the cable is the normal way.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

To double over or not arguement regularly comes up and I have yet to see a definitive answer. From experience of taking sockets off mostly installed by professionals I would say the majority I have done have not been doubled with the exception of the CPC which I have come across regularly.

Personally I do not double over in case sometime in the future a spur needs to be added. I do tend to use known makes eg MK and have yet to experience any problems of wires not being grabbed in sockets. The last time I had a loose wire was in a wall switch which was a no name make my SiL bought.

So I would really like to know what the current professional opinion is on the subject?

Richard
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Tricky Dicky formulated the question :
Personally I do not double over in case sometime in the future a spur needs
to be added. I do tend to use known makes eg MK and have yet to experience
any problems of wires not being grabbed in sockets. The last time I had a
loose wire was in a wall switch which was a no name make my SiL bought.

So I would really like to know what the current professional opinion is on
the subject?


I was always taught as near as possible to fill the terminal, to
minimise resistance. If you double them over, then need to add extra
wires, you can always cut off at the fold.
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On 13/07/2019 12:48, Tricky Dicky wrote:
To double over or not arguement regularly comes up and I have yet to see a definitive answer. From experience of taking sockets off mostly installed by professionals I would say the majority I have done have not been doubled with the exception of the CPC which I have come across regularly.

Personally I do not double over in case sometime in the future a spur needs to be added. I do tend to use known makes eg MK and have yet to experience any problems of wires not being grabbed in sockets. The last time I had a loose wire was in a wall switch which was a no name make my SiL bought.


The last time I had a loose wire was also in a wall (light) switch ...
last night! I was glad it was a loose wire and not a failing switch, as
the switches are no longer available, replacements don't necessarily
have the terminals in the same place and it is a 4-gang switch, used for
2-way switching - so lots of cores in there.

SteveW

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On 13/07/2019 06:43, ARW wrote:

Snip

I used loads yesterday. But that was on flex to relays and PSUs -
probably the most unpleasant job I have ever done. Some dick wants mag
locks on some small roller shutter doors to secure them in the open and
closed positions.

No specs, no design just get on with it and it seems no one has tried it
before. The working hours are 10am to 11am and 12.15 pm to 3pm but you
can only work on the outside of the shutters between 12.30pm and 2pm.
All shutters must be left in a working state when you are not working on
them. I also need to mention that it takes 5 minutes to get from the
inside to the outside of the shutters and even when open there is only a
small access panel to pass tools through (you can just get an impact
driver through it). The walls are steel lined ply with insulation in the
cavity.

No access to the internet to learn how to set the limit switches on the
roller shutters (worked that one out on site by trial and error) and no
manual for the shutter door controls (had to "read" the PCB to see how
that worked).

Need an extra tool or part? A trip to the van is a 20 minute round trip.


I worked for a company in 1997/8 where some of the staff were involved
in the maintenence of security doors in Ashworth High Security Hospital.
It took them ages to get in and out, they were only allowed to take a
bare minimum of cutting tools in and if they needed something different
or broke one, they had to pack everything up and take the long trip out
and back in again.

If they weren't finished on time, they had to stay and finish for
security reasons. If they were still there after a certain time, they
had to stay locked in for the night!

SteveW

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In article ,
Tricky Dicky wrote:
Personally I do not double over in case sometime in the future a spur
needs to be added.


Eh? Just snip of the doubled over part if the spur wire won't fit.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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In article , steve@walker-
family.me.uk says...

I worked for a company in 1997/8 where some of the staff were involved
in the maintenence of security doors in Ashworth High Security Hospital.
It took them ages to get in and out, they were only allowed to take a
bare minimum of cutting tools in and if they needed something different
or broke one, they had to pack everything up and take the long trip out
and back in again.

If they weren't finished on time, they had to stay and finish for
security reasons. If they were still there after a certain time, they
had to stay locked in for the night!


When I worked on the Stock Exchange cable TV system in the
early 70s, on a couple of occasions I had to do some work on
the distribution system in the bowels of the Bank of England.

I had an escort, naturally, but if I'd known where I wanted to
go, I could have gone there without him as there were no
security barriers!

That was the basis of their security - make it easy for you
penetrate the system as deeply as you like - but make it
impossible for you to get out again! Obviously, the further
you went, the more barriers there were between you and the
outside world!

One thing I particularly remember is walking past an open
doorway and seeing a fork lift truck in the room beyond moving
gold ingots around. This was, of course, in the days before
the Imprudent Gorgon flogged them off at a bargain basement
price.

--

Terry

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In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I've seen this as well, but always I find that several months after
installation you need to retighten the screws due to it all relaxing.
If you strip enough and fold it nicely it then grips quite well. I'm
surprised technology has not improved on a screw by now, maybe to a
screw pushing a spring plate system as you can find in some terminal
blocks.


Given the life of most electrical installations, I'd not trust a spring to
retain its effectiveness for long enough.

Nothing wrong with a screw terminal connection if you have some common
sense.

--
*Why are they called apartments, when they're all stuck together? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 20/07/2019 13:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I've seen this as well, but always I find that several months after
installation you need to retighten the screws due to it all relaxing.
If you strip enough and fold it nicely it then grips quite well. I'm
surprised technology has not improved on a screw by now, maybe to a
screw pushing a spring plate system as you can find in some terminal
blocks.


Given the life of most electrical installations, I'd not trust a spring to
retain its effectiveness for long enough.


Would you trust a 'maintenance free' connector, like Wago ?.

Somehow I suspect that the plastic that these are made of will become
brittle with age and silently release its grip, decades down the line.

Nothing wrong with a screw terminal connection if you have some common
sense.


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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 20/07/2019 13:34, Andrew wrote:

Would you trust a 'maintenance free' connector, like Wago ?.

Somehow I suspect that the plastic that these are made of will become
brittle with age and silently release its grip, decades down the line.


They don't appear to depend on the plastic to maintain the pressure on
the joint. Even if you strip away the plastic housing it looks like the
springy metal would still hold the cable ends securely together.
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 20/07/2019 13:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I've seen this as well, but always I find that several months after
installation you need to retighten the screws due to it all relaxing.
If you strip enough and fold it nicely it then grips quite well. I'm
surprised technology has not improved on a screw by now, maybe to a
screw pushing a spring plate system as you can find in some terminal
blocks.


Given the life of most electrical installations, I'd not trust a spring to
retain its effectiveness for long enough.

Nothing wrong with a screw terminal connection if you have some common
sense.


I still see/find junction boxes (40 years old or more) under floorboards
that are fine.

--
Adam


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"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 20/07/2019 13:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I've seen this as well, but always I find that several months after
installation you need to retighten the screws due to it all relaxing.
If you strip enough and fold it nicely it then grips quite well. I'm
surprised technology has not improved on a screw by now, maybe to a
screw pushing a spring plate system as you can find in some terminal
blocks.


Given the life of most electrical installations, I'd not trust a spring
to
retain its effectiveness for long enough.


Would you trust a 'maintenance free' connector, like Wago ?.

Somehow I suspect that the plastic that these are made of will become
brittle with age and silently release its grip, decades down the line.


No reason why it should, the cable doesnt.

Nothing wrong with a screw terminal connection if you have some common
sense.


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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rodent Speed!

On Mon, 22 Jul 2019 06:41:11 +1000, Swer, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:


No reason why it should, the cable doesnąt.


What was the reason you changed nym yet again, senile asshole troll?

--
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"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shipped the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID:
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

On 20/07/2019 14:12, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 20/07/2019 13:34, Andrew wrote:

Would you trust a 'maintenance free' connector, like Wago ?.

Somehow I suspect that the plastic that these are made of will become
brittle with age and silently release its grip, decades down the line.


They don't appear to depend on the plastic to maintain the pressure on
the joint. Even if you strip away the plastic housing it looks like the
springy metal would still hold the cable ends securely together.


But does the springy metal rely on the integrity of the
plastic housing to maintain its pressure on the cables ?.

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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

Andrew wrote:

Mike Clarke wrote:

They don't appear to depend on the plastic to maintain the pressure on
the joint. Even if you strip away the plastic housing it looks like
the springy metal would still hold the cable ends securely together.


But does the springy metal rely on the integrity of the
plastic housing to maintain its pressure on the cables ?.


Even after the plastic housing has caught fire and completely burnt
away, the springy metal still connects the wires ...

https://youtu.be/2uYD8e7idnY
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Default Socket terminal screws not grabbing cable....

In article ,
Swer wrote:
Somehow I suspect that the plastic that these are made of will become
brittle with age and silently release its grip, decades down the line.


No reason why it should, the cable doesn‘t.


Does your cable have plastic conductors in OZ, Wodney? Or just in your
mind?

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Swer wrote:
Somehow I suspect that the plastic that these are made of will become
brittle with age and silently release its grip, decades down the line.


No reason why it should, the cable doesn't.


Does your cable have plastic conductors


Wagos don't either, ****wit.


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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rodent Speed!

On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 05:07:29 +1000, Swer, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:


Does your cable have plastic conductors


Wagos don't either, ****wit.


Hey, you were lucky, senile asshole! Someone talked to you again after you
changed nym! LOL

--
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"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
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