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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


Can you not just screw it to the lintel?

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Sunday, 17 March 2019 10:00:21 UTC, JimK wrote:

Can you not just screw it to the lintel?


Do you mean with some self-tapping screws? I did consider that, and not sure why I moved to the plugs. I would presumably still require pilot holes?
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Sunday, 17 March 2019 10:00:21 UTC, JimK wrote:

Can you not just screw it to the lintel?


Do you mean with some self-tapping screws? I did consider that, and not sure why I moved to the plugs. I would presumably still require pilot holes?


But not 6mm! :-)

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


Is this all indoors, totally protected from rain/moisture?


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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

GB Wrote in message:
On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


Is this all indoors, totally protected from rain/moisture?


Plasterboard ?
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


In my limited experience, I'd glue it (with insulating foam maybe),
making sure it's properly supported while the glue goes off. Then
fix/glue the plasterboard over. I'm probably missing something, but it's
so lightweight . . .

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Sunday, 17 March 2019 10:52:12 UTC, GB wrote:

Is this all indoors, totally protected from rain/moisture?


Yes; I'm just insulating the internal reveals.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Sunday, 17 March 2019 11:25:51 UTC, RJH wrote:
On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


In my limited experience, I'd glue it (with insulating foam maybe),
making sure it's properly supported while the glue goes off. Then
fix/glue the plasterboard over. I'm probably missing something, but it's
so lightweight . . .


I must admit I am tempted. It never ceases to surprise me how effective adhesive can be, particularly when applied over large areas. I remember dismantling a conservatory and removing a ridge beam from a side wall - I was sure I'd got all the screws out but it just wasn't budging... It turns out a full length of silicone was still keeping it place.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

I would use dry wall adhesive or coving adhesive which is very similar, both will need some support initially. If you are plastering walls around the opening then you can apply plaster direct to the lintel just press the initial bonding coat into the gaps to maximise adhesion.

Richard


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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 11:18, Jim K.. wrote:
GB Wrote in message:
On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


Is this all indoors, totally protected from rain/moisture?


Plasterboard ?


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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 11:18, Jim K.. wrote:

Is this all indoors, totally protected from rain/moisture?


Plasterboard ?


Good point.

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Tricky Dicky Wrote in message:
I would use dry wall adhesive or coving adhesive which is very similar, both will need some support initially. If you are plastering walls around the opening then you can apply plaster direct to the lintel just press the initial bonding coat into the gaps to maximise adhesion.

Richard


I wouldn't do that as if the rest of the ext walls are insulated
the reveals will become the coldest place = condensation, mould
etc.

I also don't think plasterboard adhesive necessarily sticks well
to the insulation of insulated plasterboards.
Depends what the insulation is faced with ? Paper? Foil? Foam?
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Sunday, 17 March 2019 14:12:04 UTC, JimK wrote:

If you are plastering walls around the opening then you can apply
plaster direct to the lintel just press the initial bonding coat into
the gaps to maximise adhesion.

I wouldn't do that as if the rest of the ext walls are insulated
the reveals will become the coldest place = condensation, mould
etc.


Yes, I am keen to ensure there is at least some insulation around the reveals (although the door frame width means there won't be all that much).

I also don't think plasterboard adhesive necessarily sticks well
to the insulation of insulated plasterboards.
Depends what the insulation is faced with ? Paper? Foil? Foam?


I'll be making my own plasterboard+insulation sandwich and so it'll be foil backed. I too had read that dot-and-dab adhesive doesn't stick well to it, but it seems that most 'tube' adhesives do.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel



"Mathew Newton" wrote in message
...
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG
Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the
aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes
through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work,
but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills
or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the
cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv


Problem is that that situation, you'll blunt the drill with the first hole
you
drill when you go through the lintel into the aerated concrete blocks
above it. So you will need to sharpen the drill after each hole is drilled.

Better to glue the insulated plasterboard to the lintel with a decent glue.

Any other tips?




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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 15:53, Jac Brown wrote:


"Mathew Newton" wrote in message
...
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG
Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into
the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm
holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard
work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came
with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the
cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv


Problem is that that situation, you'll blunt the drill with the first
hole you
drill when you go through the lintel into the aerated concrete blocks
above it. So you will need to sharpen the drill after each hole is drilled.

Better to glue the insulated plasterboard to the lintel with a decent glue.

Any other tips?



You need a hilti gun and some ammo.
They will nail into RSJs with the correct ammo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IHyA4knBpc
video showing gun firing "nails" into steel.


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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

What's wrong with using self drilling screws? They come in a variety of lengths and are the standard for roofing contractors attaching insulated sheeting to steel purlins
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https://youtu.be/8iItGPktoSg
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel



"dennis@home" wrote in message
...
On 17/03/2019 15:53, Jac Brown wrote:


"Mathew Newton" wrote in message
...
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG
Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into
the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm
holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard
work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with
drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest
of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv


Problem is that that situation, you'll blunt the drill with the first
hole you
drill when you go through the lintel into the aerated concrete blocks
above it. So you will need to sharpen the drill after each hole is
drilled.

Better to glue the insulated plasterboard to the lintel with a decent
glue.

Any other tips?



You need a hilti gun and some ammo.
They will nail into RSJs with the correct ammo.


Can't see that being viable, getting the right amount of
the nail sticking out of the lintel. Those nails rely on the
head stopping it going into the lintel and the plasterboard/
insulation composite isnt going to stop the head.

Glue would be much more practical.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IHyA4knBpc
video showing gun firing "nails" into steel.


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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Cynic Wrote in message:
What's wrong with using self drilling screws? They come in a variety of lengths and are the standard for roofing contractors attaching insulated sheeting to steel purlins


Plasterboard... to be plastered.... Now how big are the heads? &
How much stands proud of the board / ?roof sheet" after
installing?
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel



"Cynic" wrote in message
...
https://youtu.be/8iItGPktoSg


While it doesnt matter in his case, when attaching a roof to purlins, imo
you need to stop the final screw in before it hits the roof and remove any
swarf that will otherwise be jammed under the head and will rust there.

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"Rod Speed" Wrote in message:


"Cynic" wrote in message
...
https://youtu.be/8iItGPktoSg


While it doesn?t matter in his case, when attaching a roof to purlins, imo
you need to stop the final screw in before it hits the roof and remove any
swarf that will otherwise be jammed under the head and will rust there.



How fascinatingly irrelevant.
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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Mon, 18 Mar 2019 04:23:08 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

While it doesn¢t matter in his case, when attaching a roof to purlins, imo
you need to stop the final screw in before it hits the roof and remove any
swarf that will otherwise be jammed under the head and will rust there.


IMO someone needs to smash your endlessly driveling stupid gob with a
baseball bat!

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Message-ID:
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Some drunken drug crazed **** the bed insomnia
gutless ****wit desperately cowering behind
Jim K.. spewed just what
you'd expect from a gutless desperately cowering
drunken drug crazed **** the bed insomniac.

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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Mon, 18 Mar 2019 06:02:37 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

How fascinatingly irrelevant.

Some drunken drug crazed **** the bed insomnia


gutless ****wit desperately cowering behind
Jim K.. spewed just what
you'd expect from a gutless desperately cowering
drunken drug crazed **** the bed insomniac.


The truth hurts ya, eh, you irrelevant silly senile idiot? LOL

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"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?

Your basic plan is fine, but get yourself a set of cobalt drills,
Toolstation does a cheap set, or Bosch do them individually or as a set.
A bit more expensive than TS but *very* good.

The advantage over "normal" high speed steel "metal" bits is that they
won't blunt when you go through the metal even if you hit normal brick
or blocks, rather than lightweight.

That type of lintel ought to be easy enough to drill. RSJs are sometimes
more difficult partly because of the section thickness, and you can also
hit non-metallic inclusions.

There's a bit more skill in drilling metal than wood or masonry, you
need to have the right combination of pressure and drill speed and it
all depends on the size of hole. But a 6 mm hole with a normal domestic
mains or cordless drill should be no problem. Slow speed and quite a lot
of pressure, you should be able to "feel" when it is cutting.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

dennis@home wrote:

You need a hilti gun and some ammo.


Overkill for insulated plasterboard.

I'd just go with the low expansion foam, and suitable spreaders to hold
it in place for an hour or two ... I've done that with about 3/4 sheets
with no problems.

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?


Drilling metal is always a problem for the timid,use as much pressure as
possible without breaking the bit, at a slow speed and your drill will
last for many holes without sharpening.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 14:24, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Sunday, 17 March 2019 14:12:04 UTC, JimK wrote:

If you are plastering walls around the opening then you can apply
plaster direct to the lintel just press the initial bonding coat into
the gaps to maximise adhesion.

I wouldn't do that as if the rest of the ext walls are insulated
the reveals will become the coldest place = condensation, mould
etc.


Yes, I am keen to ensure there is at least some insulation around the reveals (although the door frame width means there won't be all that much).

I also don't think plasterboard adhesive necessarily sticks well
to the insulation of insulated plasterboards.
Depends what the insulation is faced with ? Paper? Foil? Foam?


I'll be making my own plasterboard+insulation sandwich and so it'll be foil backed. I too had read that dot-and-dab adhesive doesn't stick well to it, but it seems that most 'tube' adhesives do.


Use one of the foam adhesives which will not only stick to the surface
of the lintel but expand into the slots in the lintel.

example
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta...de-750ml/72793

similar available in a container with integral "gun/nozzel"

I've recent had some work done on my house and this type of adhesive was
used to bond some wood to a sandstone type surface prior to plasterboard
being screwed to the wood and then skimmed. Excess foam was easily
removed with a knife albiet there wasn't much excess because it was alow
expansion foam.

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On 18/03/2019 08:13, alan_m wrote:
On 17/03/2019 14:24, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Sunday, 17 March 2019 14:12:04 UTC, JimKÂ* wrote:

If you are plastering walls around the opening then you can apply
plaster direct to the lintel just press the initial bonding coat into
the gaps to maximise adhesion.
I wouldn't do that as if the rest of the ext walls are insulated
Â* the reveals will become the coldest place = condensation, mould
Â* etc.


Yes, I am keen to ensure there is at least some insulation around the
reveals (although the door frame width means there won't be all that
much).

I also don't think plasterboard adhesive necessarily sticks well
Â* to the insulation of insulated plasterboards.
Depends what the insulation is faced with ? Paper? Foil? Foam?


I'll be making my own plasterboard+insulation sandwich and so it'll be
foil backed. I too had read that dot-and-dab adhesive doesn't stick
well to it, but it seems that most 'tube' adhesives do.


Use one of the foam adhesives which will not only stick to the surface
of the lintel but expand into the slots in the lintel.

example
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta...de-750ml/72793


similar available in a container with integral "gun/nozzel"

I've recent had some work done on my house and this type of adhesive was
used to bond some wood to a sandstone type surface prior to plasterboard
being screwed to the wood and then skimmed.Â* Excess foam was easily
removed with a knife albiet there wasn't much excess because it was alow
expansion foam.


Is this cladding to increase the fire rating?
If it is then foam is not a good idea.



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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?

FFS just glue it in place

car body filler

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 8:13:51 AM UTC, alan_m wrote:

Use one of the foam adhesives which will not only stick to the surface
of the lintel but expand into the slots in the lintel.

example
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta...de-750ml/72793


That seems ideal - ticks all the box regarding being strong adhesive, (low) expansion etc. The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.

I've recent had some work done on my house and this type of adhesive was
used to bond some wood to a sandstone type surface prior to plasterboard
being screwed to the wood and then skimmed. Excess foam was easily
removed with a knife albiet there wasn't much excess because it was alow
expansion foam.


Good to hear the successful outcome.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 9:37:01 AM UTC, dennis@home wrote:

Is this cladding to increase the fire rating?
If it is then foam is not a good idea.


You raise an interesting point. I was just thinking about the insulation properties to be honest, and there's nothing on the architect's drawings about fire protection, yet they carry such detail for the steel beams over the openings to the house (which the building inspector has also mentioned).

Do lintels over doors opening generally received additional fire protection? I might be able to squeeze in some 15mm fireboard instead of the 12.5mm PB I was going to use but space is tight.
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 11:17:13 AM UTC, Mathew Newton wrote:

The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.


*foil* faced boards...
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 11:17:13 AM UTC, Mathew Newton wrote:

The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.


*foil* faced boards...


When insulated plasterboards are stuck to interior walls the
manufacturers guidance was - ok fine but put at least two long
"frame fixings" through the top 1/3rd of each 8 ft board to
restrain them in the event of a fire

I would be doing something similar in your situation. Screws into
the lintel sounds good to me plus foam if you like but brace it
well whilst it cures or it will bend the insulation &/ or
plasterboard whether it's "low" expansion or not...

DAMHIKT
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 18/03/2019 12:09, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 11:17:13 AM UTC, Mathew Newton wrote:

The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.


*foil* faced boards...


There is an easy way, screw some battens to the steel with self tappers
and use plasterboard screws into that.

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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

"dennis@home" Wrote in message:
On 18/03/2019 12:09, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 11:17:13 AM UTC, Mathew Newton wrote:

The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.


*foil* faced boards...


There is an easy way, screw some battens to the steel with self tappers
and use plasterboard screws into that.



I'd rather fill the resulting voids with insulation...
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

"Jim K.." Wrote in message:
"dennis@home" Wrote in message:
On 18/03/2019 12:09, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 11:17:13 AM UTC, Mathew Newton wrote:

The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.

*foil* faced boards...


There is an easy way, screw some battens to the steel with self tappers
and use plasterboard screws into that.



I'd rather fill the resulting voids with insulation...


by not having the voids in the first place!

If screwing to the lintel why add something else into the mix?
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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On 18/03/2019 11:19, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 9:37:01 AM UTC, dennis@home wrote:

Is this cladding to increase the fire rating?
If it is then foam is not a good idea.


You raise an interesting point. I was just thinking about the insulation properties to be honest, and there's nothing on the architect's drawings about fire protection, yet they carry such detail for the steel beams over the openings to the house (which the building inspector has also mentioned).

Do lintels over doors opening generally received additional fire protection? I might be able to squeeze in some 15mm fireboard instead of the 12.5mm PB I was going to use but space is tight.


One of the reviews on the screwfix site says:


" I have used this product and found the bond strength good, but only
has a B2 fire rating as far as i'm aware. Most plaster boards has a 1 hr
fire rating so you must be careful what you use to stick the boards up
with. I have also used a Illbruck product which is in my opinion far
superior and it also has a B1 fire rating which is a true fire rated
product.
look for PU010 panel adhesive on the illbruck web site, this in my
opinion is the correct product to use for this application. "


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Default Securing insulated plasterboard to steel lintel

On Sunday, 17 March 2019 14:24:48 UTC, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Sunday, 17 March 2019 14:12:04 UTC, JimK wrote:

If you are plastering walls around the opening then you can apply
plaster direct to the lintel just press the initial bonding coat into
the gaps to maximise adhesion.

I wouldn't do that as if the rest of the ext walls are insulated
the reveals will become the coldest place = condensation, mould
etc.


Yes, I am keen to ensure there is at least some insulation around the reveals (although the door frame width means there won't be all that much).

I also don't think plasterboard adhesive necessarily sticks well
to the insulation of insulated plasterboards.
Depends what the insulation is faced with ? Paper? Foil? Foam?


I'll be making my own plasterboard+insulation sandwich and so it'll be foil backed. I too had read that dot-and-dab adhesive doesn't stick well to it, but it seems that most 'tube' adhesives do.


PVA loves foil, but isn't gap filling. I'd use something reasonably waterproof, that way come what may you won't have any additional problems. Anything waterproof really.


NT
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