I'm hanging a new stable-type back door today. Done the hinges and fitted the
doors in the frame and now I have to fit 2 Chubb mortice deadlocks. With all
the modern machinery now available, is there a better way of forming the 75mm
deep recesses for the locks? I'm still using the old brace and bit and
finishing off with a chisel, what do you do?.

Ta
Peter

On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 13:40:56 -0000, "Peter Taylor"
wrote:

I'm hanging a new stable-type back door today. Done the hinges and fitted the
doors in the frame and now I have to fit 2 Chubb mortice deadlocks. With all
the modern machinery now available, is there a better way of forming the 75mm
deep recesses for the locks? I'm still using the old brace and bit and
finishing off with a chisel, what do you do?.

Ta
Peter

I have a Trend lock jig for use with a router and a long bit.
Total cost including bit about £85.

I was fitting about 15 oak doors though and this was a huge time
saver..

I wouldn't bother for one or two locks, though.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

I use a flat bit in the cordless drill, then the chisel. I agrre with Andy,
no point in spending huge wedges on tools you may only use once in a
lifetime.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 13:40:56 -0000, "Peter Taylor"
wrote:

I'm hanging a new stable-type back door today. Done the hinges and
fitted the
doors in the frame and now I have to fit 2 Chubb mortice deadlocks. With
all
the modern machinery now available, is there a better way of forming the
75mm
deep recesses for the locks? I'm still using the old brace and bit and
finishing off with a chisel, what do you do?.

Ta
Peter

I have a Trend lock jig for use with a router and a long bit.
Total cost including bit about £85.

I was fitting about 15 oak doors though and this was a huge time
saver..

I wouldn't bother for one or two locks, though.


.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.572 / Virus Database: 362 - Release Date: 27/01/2004

I'm still using the old brace and bit and finishing off with a chisel,
what do you do?.

I use a battery drill and chisel. If you're only doing a door or tool,
specialist tools are seriously overkill. Ensure your chisels are sharp,
though. I bought an el cheapo bench grinder for a tenner to ensure this.
Great for paint scrapers too.

Christian.

Christian wrote

I'm still using the old brace and bit and finishing off with a chisel,
what do you do?.

I use a battery drill and chisel. If you're only doing a door or tool,
specialist tools are seriously overkill. Ensure your chisels are sharp,
though. I bought an el cheapo bench grinder for a tenner to ensure this.
Great for paint scrapers too.

Thanks. I just went out to buy a new flat bit and ended up getting an auger -
they have hex shanks these days to fit in a battery drill, I didn't know that
before. I think the auger will be easier to keep upright.

As for chisels, my Mrs bought me a lovely set of Marples yellow handle chisels
last year and I'm keeping them just for fine jobs like this. For sharpening I
use a bench grinder too, plus a small wet stone.

Peter

On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 13:51:25 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

I have a Trend lock jig for use with a router and a long bit.
Total cost including bit about £85.

Not if you include the price of the router

I think you might be able to get the jig and bit for a lot less than
£85 today - the lock jig is available on Screwfix for £39.99:

http://tinyurl.com/ypdfm

PoP

Sending email to my published email address isn't
guaranteed to reach me.

On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:42:14 -0000, "Peter Taylor"
wrote:

Christian wrote

I'm still using the old brace and bit and finishing off with a chisel,
what do you do?.

I use a battery drill and chisel. If you're only doing a door or tool,
specialist tools are seriously overkill. Ensure your chisels are sharp,
though. I bought an el cheapo bench grinder for a tenner to ensure this.
Great for paint scrapers too.

Thanks. I just went out to buy a new flat bit and ended up getting an auger -
they have hex shanks these days to fit in a battery drill, I didn't know that
before. I think the auger will be easier to keep upright.

I think you're right regarding augers in the sense that the sides are
supported all the way in. A useful tip is to put a square on the
door edge with one side pointing towards you. You can then eyeball
the drill angle well enough for this exercise.



As for chisels, my Mrs bought me a lovely set of Marples yellow handle chisels
last year and I'm keeping them just for fine jobs like this. For sharpening I
use a bench grinder too, plus a small wet stone.

A bench grinder can be too aggressive for chisel sharpening unless you
are trying to remove a lot of material, which shouldn't be necessary
unless you have damaged the chisel. Overheating can occur and that
is bad news.

A method with water cooling is generally better if you can.




Peter



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote:

On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:42:14 -0000, "Peter Taylor"
wrote:

Christian wrote

I'm still using the old brace and bit and finishing off with a
chisel, what do you do?.

I use a battery drill and chisel. If you're only doing a door or tool,
specialist tools are seriously overkill. Ensure your chisels are sharp,
though. I bought an el cheapo bench grinder for a tenner to ensure
this. Great for paint scrapers too.

Thanks. I just went out to buy a new flat bit and ended up getting an
auger - they have hex shanks these days to fit in a battery drill, I
didn't know that before. I think the auger will be easier to keep
upright.

I think you're right regarding augers in the sense that the sides are
supported all the way in. A useful tip is to put a square on the door
edge with one side pointing towards you. You can then eyeball the drill
angle well enough for this exercise.

I use auger bits with my drill in a drill guide. This has several
advantages: Keeps bit square to surface Gives you a handle to oppose the
torque of the bit, which can be considerable. Enables a depth stop,
powered auger bits can grab and drill much further than you intended,
especially in softwoods (I have some deeper than intended bench dog
holes in my workbench from this).

Peter

Use muilti angle drill bits (screwfix) removes chisel work to a minimum

"Peter Taylor" wrote in message ...

As for chisels, my Mrs bought me a lovely set of Marples yellow handle chisels
last year and I'm keeping them just for fine jobs like this. For sharpening I
use a bench grinder too, plus a small wet stone.


For anyone else buying chisels, I dont recommend marples, wickes, etc.
There are 2 types of chisel. The old carbon steel type is a clear
winner on performance, but the metal is hard and rigid, and the ends
tend to chip if abused, ie if used as a lever, banged into concrete
blocks etc. Marples etc use softer steel for abuse resistance, but
woodwork performance is much poorer. As long as you know not to abuse
them a (cheap) set of Flying Fang carbon steel chisels will make a
mockery of Marples etc. I have both, and was surprised by the
difference. I would never buy a marple type again.

Regards, NT