Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

On 22/02/17 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

I have never heard of such a thing and think it is unlikely but it is
just possible that a hob might be glued around the edge. Not a practice
anyone would recommend. If it is so the adhesive could be anything.
Granite fitters have their coloured paste adhesive/filler although many
favour silicone. Could be araldite.

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.
Heat from a domestic iron might have some effect.

TW

In article , ss
wrote:

Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

It *is* bond is it? I used to think my kitchen sink was bonded to the
worktop until I looked underneath and found that in fact it was fixed
with several screw-up clips.

Just sayin'

John

On 22/02/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

Warm it up with a hot air gun and see if it will soften...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, 22 February 2017 21:57:20 UTC, ss wrote:

Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

Normally it's either silicone or acrylic. Acrylic can be removed with a grout rake, or just a metal point in a handle. To use this, do _not_ try to pry bits up. Hold the spike upright and run it back and forth rapidly over the sealant, with enough pressure that it steadily breaks up. Again, do not use the spike to dig with.


NT

On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:
On 22/02/17 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

I have never heard of such a thing and think it is unlikely but it is
just possible that a hob might be glued around the edge. Not a practice
anyone would recommend. If it is so the adhesive could be anything.
Granite fitters have their coloured paste adhesive/filler although many
favour silicone. Could be araldite.

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.

Heat from a domestic iron might have some effect.

Or try pixie dust.


TW


--
"The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll
look exactly the same afterwards."

Billy Connolly

On Wednesday, 22 February 2017 23:28:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:
On 22/02/17 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

I have never heard of such a thing and think it is unlikely but it is
just possible that a hob might be glued around the edge. Not a practice
anyone would recommend. If it is so the adhesive could be anything.
Granite fitters have their coloured paste adhesive/filler although many
favour silicone. Could be araldite.

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.

Heat from a domestic iron might have some effect.

Or try pixie dust.

Stone sold as granite isn't necessarily granite.


NT

Use a cheese wire. A thin steel wire with the ends wrapped round a dowel at each end, just work it from side to side whilst exerting tension on the wire .

Richard

On 22/02/17 23:40, wrote:
On Wednesday, 22 February 2017 23:28:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:
On 22/02/17 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

I have never heard of such a thing and think it is unlikely but it is
just possible that a hob might be glued around the edge. Not a practice
anyone would recommend. If it is so the adhesive could be anything.
Granite fitters have their coloured paste adhesive/filler although many
favour silicone. Could be araldite.

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.

Heat from a domestic iron might have some effect.

Or try pixie dust.

Stone sold as granite isn't necessarily granite.


Yebbut its not sponge either.

'Granite' is (one of several) igneous rock(s).

It forms from a molten pool

Like glass.

And that why we use it for workstops. Its not porous, it doesn't stain,
its waterproof, its tough, it can be made smooth, and its chemically
highly inert.


If somewhat radioactive ;-)

NT



--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

On 22/02/2017 23:05, wrote:
On Wednesday, 22 February 2017 21:57:20 UTC, ss wrote:

Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

Normally it's either silicone or acrylic. Acrylic can be removed with a grout rake, or just a metal point in a handle. To use this, do _not_ try to pry bits up. Hold the spike upright and run it back and forth rapidly over the sealant, with enough pressure that it steadily breaks up. Again, do not use the spike to dig with.


NT

Thanks for the tips I have passed them on.

On 22/02/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

Why is he trying to do this?
Which matters most here the hob or the work surface?

There may well be cunning metal clips underneath that only become
obvious when you have partially disassembled the hobs electronics cage.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.

The metal lip may well be largely cosmetic top edge finishing.

The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

Or scratch the granite worktop. A very sharp thin blade and/or the most
aggressive organic solvent you can find might have some effect.

Ideally you need to know what sort of glue it is.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/17 23:40, wrote:
On Wednesday, 22 February 2017 23:28:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:
On 22/02/17 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the
worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the
glass
hob.

I have never heard of such a thing and think it is unlikely but it is
just possible that a hob might be glued around the edge. Not a practice
anyone would recommend. If it is so the adhesive could be anything.
Granite fitters have their coloured paste adhesive/filler although many
favour silicone. Could be araldite.

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.

Heat from a domestic iron might have some effect.

Or try pixie dust.

Stone sold as granite isn't necessarily granite.


Yebbut its not sponge either.

'Granite' is (one of several) igneous rock(s).

It forms from a molten pool

Like glass.

And that why we use it for workstops. Its not porous, it doesn't stain,
its waterproof, its tough, it can be made smooth, and its chemically
highly inert.


If somewhat radioactive ;-)

NT




It does stain.

On 23/02/17 10:15, Capitol wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/17 23:40, wrote:
On Wednesday, 22 February 2017 23:28:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:
On 22/02/17 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work
top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the
worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the
glass
hob.

I have never heard of such a thing and think it is unlikely but it is
just possible that a hob might be glued around the edge. Not a
practice
anyone would recommend. If it is so the adhesive could be anything.
Granite fitters have their coloured paste adhesive/filler although
many
favour silicone. Could be araldite.

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.

Heat from a domestic iron might have some effect.

Or try pixie dust.

Stone sold as granite isn't necessarily granite.


Yebbut its not sponge either.

'Granite' is (one of several) igneous rock(s).

It forms from a molten pool

Like glass.

And that why we use it for workstops. Its not porous, it doesn't stain,
its waterproof, its tough, it can be made smooth, and its chemically
highly inert.


If somewhat radioactive ;-)

NT




It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho



--
All political activity makes complete sense once the proposition that
all government is basically a self-legalising protection racket, is
fully understood.

On 23/02/2017 10:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 23/02/17 10:15, Capitol wrote:

It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Some granites have tiny inclusions of reduced iron oxides which are
capable of producing rust stains if kept wet for a long time.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 23/02/17 10:32, Martin Brown wrote:
On 23/02/2017 10:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 23/02/17 10:15, Capitol wrote:

It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Some granites have tiny inclusions of reduced iron oxides which are
capable of producing rust stains if kept wet for a long time.

arguably it comes already stained then!

:-)


--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

On Thu, 23 Feb 2017 10:21:51 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:



It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Isn't this a fine line in the difference between porosity and
permeability?
Some granites will stain fairly easily and as far as joe bloggs
dealing with a kitchen salesman its easier to ust tell him that it can
stain and needs a sealer.
If Granite doesn't allow stuff in how does it let Radon gas out.

G.Harman

On 23/02/2017 09:41, Martin Brown wrote:

Or scratch the granite worktop. A very sharp thin blade and/or the most
aggressive organic solvent you can find might have some effect.

Ideally you need to know what sort of glue it is.

The hob was imstalled by previous owner, so no idea what was used.

On 23/02/17 11:02, wrote:
On Thu, 23 Feb 2017 10:21:51 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:



It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Isn't this a fine line in the difference between porosity and
permeability?

No. igneous rocks don't have voids. Permeability implies porosity.

The only voids you are likely to see in granite is where uranium has
decayed to radon, and the holes would then be full of lead ultimately.



Some granites will stain fairly easily

I simply dont believe that. I can find no evidence of it whatsoever/

and as far as joe bloggs
dealing with a kitchen salesman its easier to just tell him that it can
stain and needs a sealer.
If Granite doesn't allow stuff in how does it let Radon gas out.

Mostly, it doesn't. Except from the surface



G.Harman



--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

On 23/02/17 12:41, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 23/02/17 11:02, wrote:
On Thu, 23 Feb 2017 10:21:51 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:



It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Isn't this a fine line in the difference between porosity and
permeability?

No. igneous rocks don't have voids. Permeability implies porosity.

The only voids you are likely to see in granite is where uranium has
decayed to radon, and the holes would then be full of lead ultimately.



Some granites will stain fairly easily

I simply dont believe that. I can find no evidence of it whatsoever/

and as far as joe bloggs
dealing with a kitchen salesman its easier to just tell him that it can
stain and needs a sealer.
If Granite doesn't allow stuff in how does it let Radon gas out.

Mostly, it doesn't. Except from the surface



G.Harman



https://www.epa.gov/radiation/granit...-and-radiation


--
"If you dont read the news paper, you are un-informed. If you read the
news paper, you are mis-informed."

Mark Twain

On 23 Feb 2017 10:35:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2017-02-22, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.

FWIW, our induction hob is not fastened down at all. It's just very heavy ...

The aperture I made in my workshop for the electric hob ended up being
a tight interference fit. No sealant was used, but those that come
afterwards might think otherwise.
--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

On 22/02/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.


Are you sure it isn't silicone? Ours was fitted professionally but I
watched it being done and they used clear silicone.

I'd try a thin blade to slowly try and cut it. You can get solvent,
perhaps a combination of solvent, blade, and gentle lifting from below
of the whole unit.

--

Suspect someone is claiming a benefit under false pretences? Incapacity
Benefit or Personal Independence Payment when they don't need it? They
are depriving those in real need!

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud

On 23/02/2017 16:16, Brian Reay wrote:
On 22/02/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
Ok I dont have access to this, email from son.
They have an induction hob and the hob has been bonded to the work top
at either side. Apparently its not silicon.

Any ideas on how to loosen the bond to remove the hob.

My understanding is hob has a metal lip that attaches to the worktop at
the sides.
The worktop is granite. Any prising to release it would crack the glass
hob.


Are you sure it isn't silicone? Ours was fitted professionally but I
watched it being done and they used clear silicone.

I'd try a thin blade to slowly try and cut it. You can get solvent,
perhaps a combination of solvent, blade, and gentle lifting from below
of the whole unit.


Mine was professionally fitted too, they didn't use any sealant.
(yes I know you can DIY granite but there are limits to what I can move
and 30 mm granite is not light.)

The hob came with a rubber strip glued along the edge and that presses
on the worktop through the weight of the hob.

There are spring clips fitted to the sides but they are there to stop
lateral movement.

To remove it you take out the drawer underneath and push upwards, if you
try and leaver it out it will break.

On 22/02/17 23:28, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:

[...]

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.


You are as always, wrong. Not very porous but certainly slightly
permeable. Not 'like glass' as you say. No.

TW

On 23/02/2017 12:41, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

No. igneous rocks don't have voids. Permeability implies porosity.

cough Pumice.

On 23/02/2017 17:05, dennis@home wrote:

Mine was professionally fitted too, they didn't use any sealant.
(yes I know you can DIY granite but there are limits to what I can move
and 30 mm granite is not light.)

The hob came with a rubber strip glued along the edge and that presses
on the worktop through the weight of the hob.

There are spring clips fitted to the sides but they are there to stop
lateral movement.

To remove it you take out the drawer underneath and push upwards, if you
try and leaver it out it will break.

Update, son sent this image as he managed to prise (sealant) some out,
trying to get info from him with more detail.

On 23/02/2017 22:43, ss wrote:
To remove it you take out the drawer underneath and push upwards, if you
try and leaver it out it will break.

Update, son sent this image as he managed to prise (sealant) some out,
trying to get info from him with more detail.



Further update:
Quote:
"It's the excess that has oozed out upon installation. SO I took that
from the underside. But it's all the way round and is defo sealing /
bonding it to the worktop.

However. I've realised. The engineer that came out and said it needs to
come off. I don't buy it. I think he's want it out for easiness. But
looking at undersides. All the access and the only access to the cooker
is on the underside. So in situ yea, it's awkward. But I bet it's
doable. He said it was just a sensor that needs replaced. I reackon I
can do in situ." Unquote.

Apparently it is a sensor that needs replacing.

On Thursday, 23 February 2017 22:43:59 UTC, ss wrote:

Update, son sent this image as he managed to prise (sealant) some out,
trying to get info from him with more detail.



must be silicone.


NT

On 23/02/17 21:03, TimW wrote:
On 22/02/17 23:28, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/17 22:04, TimW wrote:

[...]

Anyway, penetrating oil could get underneath it - granite is porous.

Granite is of course not porous.


You are as always, wrong. Not very porous but certainly slightly
permeable.

no.

REally noyt. Look it up.

Not 'like glass' as you say. No.

Bery like glass as I said.

Sandstone is porus. sandstone needs sealing. Sandstone will stain.

Not Granite

TW



--
Microsoft : the best reason to go to Linux that ever existed.

On 23/02/17 21:58, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 23/02/2017 12:41, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

No. igneous rocks don't have voids. Permeability implies porosity.

cough Pumice.

which foams because it was NOT created under pressure. A is full of gas
when it forms

Its still not permeable IIRC

--
Microsoft : the best reason to go to Linux that ever existed.

On 24/02/2017 00:56, wrote:
On Thursday, 23 February 2017 22:43:59 UTC, ss wrote:

Update, son sent this image as he managed to prise (sealant) some out,
trying to get info from him with more detail.



must be silicone.


Very hard to tell from a photo.

How it fractures (or not) when bent would distinguish brittle epoxy from
the more flexible silicone or acrylic fillers. It could even be a hot
melt PU glue which would soften when warmed up.

None of the obvious cured polymers will be easily softened by heat apart
from a PU hot melt glue.

I think his best bet is a razor blade or scalpel in parallel to the
bench and done with great care to avoid scratching the granite or
personal injury with sharp thin blades that may shatter if forced.

Some tools sold for dismantling iPads spring to mind as suitable.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Martin Brown wrote:
On 23/02/2017 10:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 23/02/17 10:15, Capitol wrote:

It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Some granites have tiny inclusions of reduced iron oxides which are
capable of producing rust stains if kept wet for a long time.


My experience was with food dyes. Fortunately UV removed it.

On 24/02/2017 10:12, Martin Brown wrote:
Very hard to tell from a photo.

How it fractures (or not) when bent would distinguish brittle epoxy from
the more flexible silicone or acrylic fillers. It could even be a hot
melt PU glue which would soften when warmed up.

None of the obvious cured polymers will be easily softened by heat apart
from a PU hot melt glue.

I think his best bet is a razor blade or scalpel in parallel to the
bench and done with great care to avoid scratching the granite or
personal injury with sharp thin blades that may shatter if forced.

Some tools sold for dismantling iPads spring to mind as suitable.

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to
start with.

On 24/02/2017 10:51, Capitol wrote:
Martin Brown wrote:
On 23/02/2017 10:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 23/02/17 10:15, Capitol wrote:

It does stain.

shouldn't do. If its actually granite

Marble stains...

I've never had a granite worktop stain tho

Some granites have tiny inclusions of reduced iron oxides which are
capable of producing rust stains if kept wet for a long time.


My experience was with food dyes. Fortunately UV removed it.

So will peroxides.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 24/02/2017 11:00, ss wrote:
On 24/02/2017 10:12, Martin Brown wrote:
Very hard to tell from a photo.

How it fractures (or not) when bent would distinguish brittle epoxy from
the more flexible silicone or acrylic fillers. It could even be a hot
melt PU glue which would soften when warmed up.

None of the obvious cured polymers will be easily softened by heat apart
from a PU hot melt glue.

I think his best bet is a razor blade or scalpel in parallel to the
bench and done with great care to avoid scratching the granite or
personal injury with sharp thin blades that may shatter if forced.

Some tools sold for dismantling iPads spring to mind as suitable.

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to
start with.

No harm in trying, but you may as well try melting the loose bit.

I guess granite worktop and pyrex hob would stand up to a blowtorch so
that might be one way to seriously weaken the bond.

If it is soft bendy like silicone then I'd be going for a pack of
classic razor blades, putting a copper safe edge on one side of it and
then a small handle to allow it to be used as a thin saw come knife.

There is a real risk of snapping it used like this but it is perhaps the
only thing that will cut a thin polymer glue in a confined space.

A boxcutter might also do the job if there is space (with the same risks
of snapping the blade and sharp breaks if forced).

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

"ss" wrote in message ...
On 24/02/2017 10:12, Martin Brown wrote:
Very hard to tell from a photo.

How it fractures (or not) when bent would distinguish brittle epoxy from
the more flexible silicone or acrylic fillers. It could even be a hot
melt PU glue which would soften when warmed up.

None of the obvious cured polymers will be easily softened by heat apart
from a PU hot melt glue.

I think his best bet is a razor blade or scalpel in parallel to the
bench and done with great care to avoid scratching the granite or
personal injury with sharp thin blades that may shatter if forced.

Some tools sold for dismantling iPads spring to mind as suitable.

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to start with.

Acetone will soften silicone.

Pour some acetone into a cup (taking care to read all the hazard labels,
and donning the requisite breathing apparatus, goggles, safety
helmet. boots overalls etc. according to taste - or just leave a window
open) and dip the end of a thin bladed pallet knife into the cup then into the
joint. Alternatively using an artists size bristle brush, dip this into the acetone
and paint along the join.Wait a few minutes and if this is successful then dip
and insert the pallet knife as before.
Soft materials like silicone bond as much by suction as by adhesive properties
as such, and so it may be possible as some stage to lever the hob off.
But only after a bit of "give" can be felt in the joint otherwise there's be a risk
of fracture.

On Friday, 24 February 2017 11:52:23 UTC, Moron Watch wrote:
"ss" wrote in message ...

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to start with.

it's almost certainly silicone.

Acetone will soften silicone.

Pour some acetone into a cup (taking care to read all the hazard labels,
and donning the requisite breathing apparatus, goggles, safety
helmet. boots overalls etc. according to taste - or just leave a window
open) and dip the end of a thin bladed pallet knife into the cup then into the
joint. Alternatively using an artists size bristle brush, dip this into the acetone
and paint along the join.Wait a few minutes and if this is successful then dip
and insert the pallet knife as before.
Soft materials like silicone bond as much by suction as by adhesive properties
as such, and so it may be possible as some stage to lever the hob off.
But only after a bit of "give" can be felt in the joint otherwise there's be a risk
of fracture.

Only a moron would use that much acetone at once in a room.

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 24 February 2017 11:52:23 UTC, Moron Watch wrote:
"ss" wrote in message ...

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to start with.

it's almost certainly silicone.

Acetone will soften silicone.

Pour some acetone into a cup (taking care to read all the hazard labels,
and donning the requisite breathing apparatus, goggles, safety
helmet. boots overalls etc. according to taste - or just leave a window
open) and dip the end of a thin bladed pallet knife into the cup then into the
joint. Alternatively using an artists size bristle brush, dip this into the acetone
and paint along the join.Wait a few minutes and if this is successful then dip
and insert the pallet knife as before.
Soft materials like silicone bond as much by suction as by adhesive properties
as such, and so it may be possible as some stage to lever the hob off.
But only after a bit of "give" can be felt in the joint otherwise there's be a risk
of fracture.

Only a moron would use that much acetone at once in a room.

Sorry, my mistake

Posting sensible and useful answers on this forum is obviously a complete waste
of time with experts like you around.

https://science.wonderhowto.com/how-...cetone-287976/

On 24/02/2017 13:24, Moron Watch wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 24 February 2017 11:52:23 UTC, Moron Watch wrote:
"ss" wrote in message ...

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to start with.

it's almost certainly silicone.

Acetone will soften silicone.

Pour some acetone into a cup (taking care to read all the hazard labels,
and donning the requisite breathing apparatus, goggles, safety
helmet. boots overalls etc. according to taste - or just leave a window
open) and dip the end of a thin bladed pallet knife into the cup then into the
joint. Alternatively using an artists size bristle brush, dip this into the acetone
and paint along the join.Wait a few minutes and if this is successful then dip
and insert the pallet knife as before.
Soft materials like silicone bond as much by suction as by adhesive properties
as such, and so it may be possible as some stage to lever the hob off.
But only after a bit of "give" can be felt in the joint otherwise there's be a risk
of fracture.

Only a moron would use that much acetone at once in a room.

Sorry, my mistake

Posting sensible and useful answers on this forum is obviously a complete waste
of time with experts like you around.

I bought some silicone remover gel from ScrewStation. Hmm, I wonder
what's in it and whether it's safe to use?

Anyway, if that's safer, you could use that instead of acetone.

In any case, it'll all work much better once the clips holding this hob
down have been removed.

"GB" wrote in message news
On 24/02/2017 13:24, Moron Watch wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 24 February 2017 11:52:23 UTC, Moron Watch wrote:
"ss" wrote in message ...

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to start with.

it's almost certainly silicone.

Acetone will soften silicone.

Pour some acetone into a cup (taking care to read all the hazard labels,
and donning the requisite breathing apparatus, goggles, safety
helmet. boots overalls etc. according to taste - or just leave a window
open) and dip the end of a thin bladed pallet knife into the cup then into the
joint. Alternatively using an artists size bristle brush, dip this into the acetone
and paint along the join.Wait a few minutes and if this is successful then dip
and insert the pallet knife as before.
Soft materials like silicone bond as much by suction as by adhesive properties
as such, and so it may be possible as some stage to lever the hob off.
But only after a bit of "give" can be felt in the joint otherwise there's be a risk
of fracture.

Only a moron would use that much acetone at once in a room.

Sorry, my mistake

Posting sensible and useful answers on this forum is obviously a complete waste
of time with experts like you around.

I bought some silicone remover gel from ScrewStation. Hmm, I wonder what's in it and
whether it's safe to use?

Anyway, if that's safer, you could use that instead of acetone.

Being more manageable Gel would certainly preferable for use with acrylic
baths or anywhere where liquid acetone might attack any adjacent
plastic surfaces.

Otherwise (apart from its ability to eat/etch various plastics) contrary
to what tabby claims actetone is fairly benign in use and is the
best way of cleaning uncured resin from tools and hands when doing
GRP layup - providing the latter is followed up with soap and water.
And again obviously only a glue sniffer would deliberately want to
breathe in the fumes or use it in a confined space.

In any case, it'll all work much better once the clips holding this hob down have been
removed.

In which case it probably only serves as a sealant and maybe no solvent
will be needed. To avoid undue stressing it might be an idea to try and
twist it off, if you can get a grip, rather then lever it up.