"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
I didn't make them. They were made commercially. By a specialist in
such things. Given what they cost, should have been the strongest
plastic on the market.

Just because they are expensive doesn't mean they aren't made cheaply.
You do not get what you pay for if there is no competition.

There is competition. This firm was chosen (not by me) as it is a market
leader in this sort of work.

Easy to claim. If what they sell only lasted a couple
of weeks, they don’t be a market leader for long.

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
I didn't make them. They were made commercially. By a specialist in
such things. Given what they cost, should have been the strongest
plastic on the market.

Just because they are expensive doesn't mean they aren't made cheaply.
You do not get what you pay for if there is no competition.

There is competition. This firm was chosen (not by me) as it is a
market leader in this sort of work.

Easy to claim. If what they sell only lasted a couple
of weeks, they don’t be a market leader for long.

There are lots of different types of plastic. And lots of different ways
of forming it into a shape.

To assume 3d printed stuff is going to be the equal of all of them simply
says you've been conned like everyone else.

--
*Young at heart -- slightly older in other places

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 11/02/2016 11:05, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 09:30:08 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

snip

With FFF in plastic you may have to look at the design and change it to
take into account the weakness in the Z axis. If you can't then you need
to look elsewhere.

What weakness in the Z axis?

You can never get as good a bond when laying hot plastic ontop of cold
plastic as you get from the extrusion.
Try printing a tall rod vs one printed on its side.
You will find one has a higher tensile strength than the other in the
long axis.


If the printer is configured and running properly then each new layer
should fully fuse itself to the previous layer? We extrude PLA at
around 200 DegC and using a heated bed (60 DegC).

Don't get me wrong, I have had faulty prints where the nozzle has say
partially blocked for a few seconds, the size / consistency of the
extrusion has been compromised and so a fault is created affecting the
Z axis but that's a 'manufacturing' not 'materials' fault.

I'll print a couple of solid beams and see how accurately I can test
them for bending / delaminating failure.

O, that's what i just suggested above.

"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 10 February 2016 16:23:03 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 10 February 2016 00:36:35 UTC, Graham. wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2016 09:20:08 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Feb 2016 12:14:22 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

Started with a Rep-Rap and a `model` castle

http://www.totalkustom.com/3d-castle-completed.html

Saw that previously.

and is moving forward impressively, actual machine building things
rather
than just renderings

http://www.3ders.org/articles/201509...ted-hotel.html

Brilliant, well, unless you are a bricklayer of course.

Having built and run a Cartesian 3d printer I can feel every
movement
of that concrete printers motions. In fact it seems quite scene in
comparison with our dinky thing.

Even thought the printer frame has to be pretty strong, rigid and
accurate, it's funny how any slight imperfections are normally
ironed
out on the next pass (assuming they matter in the first place).

It constantly amazes me re the uses I hear people putting them to.

A mates daughter makes cakes and (currently) buys (hopes to make
for
herself soon) 3d printed shape cutters for all sort of cake
occasions.

A mate recently bought some new steel framed chairs for his kitchen
and some of the rubber feet were missing. It took me 5 minutes to
measure and draw on the PC ... and maybe an hour and a half to
print,
four new feet that he says work better than the originals.

It still seem weird to be able to think of something, draw and
print
it and have it in your hand the same morning (like drilling /
cutting
jigs and templates, brackets and the like).

I still remember the old days when I had to go down the cold
workshop
and file, drill, saw ... ;-)

How long before you can just print new brat or pet when one gets run
over
etc.

Or print a new wife when you've worn the old one out ?

Do you agree that we need a better word than printer for these
futuristic machines?
Any ideas?

Replicator would do me.

But it's not a replicator if it's designed using
a CAD system and only printed the once.

what has only printed once got to do with it ?

Its clearly not REPLICATING anything if it only happens the once.

got two of these in my lab, earlier models anyway.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8754711/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Computing_And_Peripherals-_-3D_Printing_And_Scanning&mkwid=s5PaDqrLW_dc|pcrid| 88057058523|pkw||pmt||prd|8754711&gclid=CJPB-_nu78oCFc0y0wodHgkAKg

and one of these downstairs

Objet30 Prime

Irrelevant to what a REPLICATOR does.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 20:19:49 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

On 11/02/2016 11:05, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 09:30:08 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

snip

With FFF in plastic you may have to look at the design and change it to
take into account the weakness in the Z axis. If you can't then you need
to look elsewhere.

What weakness in the Z axis?

You can never get as good a bond when laying hot plastic ontop of cold
plastic as you get from the extrusion.

Maybe not, but it only needs to be 'good enough' for the required use.
Further, the already printed plastic isn't 'cold' as the whole job is
sat on a heated bed. The trick is to leave enough heat in the job to
keep the temperature differential between the plastic being 'hot
enough to extrude' and 'cool enough to maintain stability' once
extruded.

If you were to print a 25 x 2mm disk, kill the job and lift the job
off the bed whilst hot (with a blade), you could easily fold the disk
in half with your fingers.

With taller thinner jobs you often have to run cooling fans because
even though the heated bed can now be a reasonable distance away, the
rate at which you are laying filament on the top at 200 DegC means
the job can stay so hot it can move / distort, just from the 'drag' of
the filament.

Try printing a tall rod vs one printed on its side.

I have / do. ;-)

You will find one has a higher tensile strength than the other in the
long axis.

Of course. But let's say one is 90% of the other and the item 200%
stronger than it needs to be?


If the printer is configured and running properly then each new layer
should fully fuse itself to the previous layer? We extrude PLA at
around 200 DegC and using a heated bed (60 DegC).

Don't get me wrong, I have had faulty prints where the nozzle has say
partially blocked for a few seconds, the size / consistency of the
extrusion has been compromised and so a fault is created affecting the
Z axis but that's a 'manufacturing' not 'materials' fault.

I'll print a couple of solid beams and see how accurately I can test
them for bending / delaminating failure.

O, that's what i just suggested above.

I have printed many object that have reasonable length in the Z axis
(sometimes longer than the other two) and never had any obvious
weakness in that direction.

In fact we have dropped heavy assemblies, stepper motors and linear
rails that were joined together by plastic printed connectors and
components and anything thin that has ever broken has always broken
across the job with no regard to the thought that it was of
'laminated' construction.

e.g. The inter-layer bond is (to all intents and purposes) as strong
as the material itself.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Do you have or use a 3D printer and if so, what model?

On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 07:25:26 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 1:13:22 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2016 12:01:24 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

snip

The one experience I've had of 3d printers is some clips made for the
parcel shelf on the old Rover. The originals are plastic and break after a
few years. The 3D replacements after a few weeks. I eventually made new
ones from ally plate. Which are far stronger.

I'm not sure how PLA (the default 3D printer filament type) fares in
the sunlight yet because I've not had chance to test it but those
things I've printed and tested to destruction seem pretty tough?

And of course there is 3D printing and less than good 3D printing ...

Cheers, T i m

Unfortunately none of the current prinatble plastics appear to like UV exposure , aprt from post cure

https://www.3dhubs.com/materials


Yes, that was the only thing I was unsure about, especially
considering Daves parcel shelf clips (presumably exposed to strong UV
through the window)? ;-(

I'll have to make something (in PLA) that would expose any weakness to
UV and get it outside. Hanging basket bracket? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
I didn't make them. They were made commercially. By a specialist in
such things. Given what they cost, should have been the strongest
plastic on the market.

Just because they are expensive doesn't mean they aren't made cheaply.
You do not get what you pay for if there is no competition.

There is competition. This firm was chosen (not by me) as it is a
market leader in this sort of work.

Easy to claim. If what they sell only lasted a couple
of weeks, they don't be a market leader for long.

There are lots of different types of plastic. And lots
of different ways of forming it into a shape.

And when that one they did only lasted weeks, they clearly
don't have a ****ing clue about what they are doing.

To assume 3d printed stuff is going to be the equal of all of them

Never assumed anything of the sort. That was JUST a comment
on your stupid claim that that operation is a market leader.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 07:25:26 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

snip

Unfortunately none of the current prinatble plastics appear to like UV exposure , aprt from post cure

https://www.3dhubs.com/materials

I just found this (FWIW):

http://iepas.net/using-pla-for-long-...-applications/

"As a side note, PLA is referenced as considerably UV resistant."

Cheers, T i m

On 11/02/2016 23:08, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 20:19:49 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

On 11/02/2016 11:05, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 09:30:08 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

snip

With FFF in plastic you may have to look at the design and change it to
take into account the weakness in the Z axis. If you can't then you need
to look elsewhere.

What weakness in the Z axis?

You can never get as good a bond when laying hot plastic ontop of cold
plastic as you get from the extrusion.

Maybe not, but it only needs to be 'good enough' for the required use.
Further, the already printed plastic isn't 'cold' as the whole job is
sat on a heated bed. The trick is to leave enough heat in the job to
keep the temperature differential between the plastic being 'hot
enough to extrude' and 'cool enough to maintain stability' once
extruded.

If you were to print a 25 x 2mm disk, kill the job and lift the job
off the bed whilst hot (with a blade), you could easily fold the disk
in half with your fingers.

With taller thinner jobs you often have to run cooling fans because
even though the heated bed can now be a reasonable distance away, the
rate at which you are laying filament on the top at 200 DegC means
the job can stay so hot it can move / distort, just from the 'drag' of
the filament.

Try printing a tall rod vs one printed on its side.

I have / do. ;-)

You will find one has a higher tensile strength than the other in the
long axis.

Of course. But let's say one is 90% of the other and the item 200%
stronger than it needs to be?


If the printer is configured and running properly then each new layer
should fully fuse itself to the previous layer? We extrude PLA at
around 200 DegC and using a heated bed (60 DegC).

Don't get me wrong, I have had faulty prints where the nozzle has say
partially blocked for a few seconds, the size / consistency of the
extrusion has been compromised and so a fault is created affecting the
Z axis but that's a 'manufacturing' not 'materials' fault.

I'll print a couple of solid beams and see how accurately I can test
them for bending / delaminating failure.

O, that's what i just suggested above.

I have printed many object that have reasonable length in the Z axis
(sometimes longer than the other two) and never had any obvious
weakness in that direction.

In fact we have dropped heavy assemblies, stepper motors and linear
rails that were joined together by plastic printed connectors and
components and anything thin that has ever broken has always broken
across the job with no regard to the thought that it was of
'laminated' construction.

e.g. The inter-layer bond is (to all intents and purposes) as strong
as the material itself.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Do you have or use a 3D printer and if so, what model?




I had a play with one nearly two years ago, it wasn't mine and I don't
know what it was.

I don't think it had a heated bed, quite a few don't now.
Isn't the heated bed to stop uneven cooling causing the print to curl
and lift from the bed.

I keep saying I am going to buy/build one but TOH says No!!

On 11/02/2016 23:18, T i m wrote:


Yes, that was the only thing I was unsure about, especially
considering Daves parcel shelf clips (presumably exposed to strong UV
through the window)? ;-(

Most cars don't let much UV in, the trim would suffer if they did.

On Thursday, 11 February 2016 22:13:51 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 10 February 2016 16:23:03 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 10 February 2016 00:36:35 UTC, Graham. wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2016 09:20:08 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Feb 2016 12:14:22 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

Started with a Rep-Rap and a `model` castle

http://www.totalkustom.com/3d-castle-completed.html

Saw that previously.

and is moving forward impressively, actual machine building things
rather
than just renderings

http://www.3ders.org/articles/201509...ted-hotel.html

Brilliant, well, unless you are a bricklayer of course.

Having built and run a Cartesian 3d printer I can feel every
movement
of that concrete printers motions. In fact it seems quite scene in
comparison with our dinky thing.

Even thought the printer frame has to be pretty strong, rigid and
accurate, it's funny how any slight imperfections are normally
ironed
out on the next pass (assuming they matter in the first place).

It constantly amazes me re the uses I hear people putting them to.

A mates daughter makes cakes and (currently) buys (hopes to make
for
herself soon) 3d printed shape cutters for all sort of cake
occasions.

A mate recently bought some new steel framed chairs for his kitchen
and some of the rubber feet were missing. It took me 5 minutes to
measure and draw on the PC ... and maybe an hour and a half to
print,
four new feet that he says work better than the originals.

It still seem weird to be able to think of something, draw and
print
it and have it in your hand the same morning (like drilling /
cutting
jigs and templates, brackets and the like).

I still remember the old days when I had to go down the cold
workshop
and file, drill, saw ... ;-)

How long before you can just print new brat or pet when one gets run
over
etc.

Or print a new wife when you've worn the old one out ?

Do you agree that we need a better word than printer for these
futuristic machines?
Any ideas?

Replicator would do me.

But it's not a replicator if it's designed using
a CAD system and only printed the once.

what has only printed once got to do with it ?

Its clearly not REPLICATING anything if it only happens the once.

got two of these in my lab, earlier models anyway.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8754711/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Computing_And_Peripherals-_-3D_Printing_And_Scanning&mkwid=s5PaDqrLW_dc|pcrid| 88057058523|pkw||pmt||prd|8754711&gclid=CJPB-_nu78oCFc0y0wodHgkAKg

and one of these downstairs

Objet30 Prime

Irrelevant to what a REPLICATOR does.

So what does a replicator do ?

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 13:12:37 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

On 11/02/2016 23:18, T i m wrote:


Yes, that was the only thing I was unsure about, especially
considering Daves parcel shelf clips (presumably exposed to strong UV
through the window)? ;-(

Most cars don't let much UV in, the trim would suffer if they did.

As I know from my Sierra dash that was all cracked up?

Cheers, T i m

On Thursday, February 11, 2016 at 11:59:01 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 07:25:26 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

snip

Unfortunately none of the current prinatble plastics appear to like UV exposure , aprt from post cure

https://www.3dhubs.com/materials

I just found this (FWIW):

http://iepas.net/using-pla-for-long-...-applications/

"As a side note, PLA is referenced as considerably UV resistant."

Cheers, T i m

Don`t you hate coming across old forum posts where the trail goes cold, we are going to test PLA UV exposure from 2013 then

http://iepas.net/category/mma/3d-printing/

Really interesting article and super use of the technology but they printed the long term parts in ABS. not sure of difference between 3D hubs simulated ABS and ABS filament FDM printing.

Only plastic that 3D hubs are listing as UV resistant is SLS printed nylon.

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 13:10:54 +0000, dennis@home
wrote:

snip

p.s. Do you have or use a 3D printer and if so, what model?


I had a play with one nearly two years ago, it wasn't mine and I don't
know what it was.

Ok.

I don't think it had a heated bed, quite a few don't now.

And quite a few do, even when printing PLA and especially when
printing nearly every other material.

Isn't the heated bed to stop uneven cooling causing the print to curl
and lift from the bed.

That's partly the reason and the alternative is to use some other way
of 'sticking' the job to the bed, like hair spray, diluted PVA, double
sided tape etc. However, none of the 'alternatives' have the advantage
of keeping some heat in the job and the material 'plastic'.

I keep saying I am going to buy/build one but TOH says No!!

And you do as you are told? shrug

Cheers, T i m

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
There are lots of different types of plastic. And lots
of different ways of forming it into a shape.

And when that one they did only lasted weeks, they clearly
don't have a ****ing clue about what they are doing.

To assume 3d printed stuff is going to be the equal of all of them

Never assumed anything of the sort. That was JUST a comment
on your stupid claim that that operation is a market leader.

Thanks for confirming you don't understand the term. As with so much else.

--
*ATHEISM IS A NON-PROPHET ORGANIZATION.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
T i m wrote:
Most cars don't let much UV in, the trim would suffer if they did.

As I know from my Sierra dash that was all cracked up?

Old Californian UK cars. No rust but ruined interior.

--
*Why is it that doctors call what they do "practice"?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 06:44:21 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

On Thursday, February 11, 2016 at 11:59:01 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 07:25:26 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

snip

Unfortunately none of the current prinatble plastics appear to like UV exposure , aprt from post cure

https://www.3dhubs.com/materials

I just found this (FWIW):

http://iepas.net/using-pla-for-long-...-applications/

"As a side note, PLA is referenced as considerably UV resistant."

Cheers, T i m

Don`t you hate coming across old forum posts where the trail goes cold, we are going to test PLA UV exposure from 2013 then

http://iepas.net/category/mma/3d-printing/

;-)

Really interesting article and super use of the technology but they printed the long term parts in ABS. not sure of difference between 3D hubs simulated ABS and ABS filament FDM printing.

No, nor PLA as typically used for 3D printing and 'PLA fibers' as
analysed fairly comprehensively he

http://jimluntllc.com/pdfs/polylactic_fibers.pdf

Only plastic that 3D hubs are listing as UV resistant is SLS printed nylon.

I don't know if / how it would ... and it would defeat the object to
some degree but I wonder if it (a 3d printed object used outside) was
painted with a UV protective paint would help? Like many cars that had
fibreglass panels from the factory tended to last better than the
gelcoat / self coloured ones?

Cheers, T i m

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 4:13:38 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
snipped

No, nor PLA as typically used for 3D printing and 'PLA fibers' as
analysed fairly comprehensively he

http://jimluntllc.com/pdfs/polylactic_fibers.pdf

Thing have discovered experimenting with PCL, AKA Polymorph, moulding not 3D printing , is that it will take enormous amounts of filler.PCL mixed with marble dust is used for short run hydraulic press tools.

PLA noodle for printing comes in all sorts of flavours, so shares its lower melting temp sisters ability to take a lot of filling.

http://www.3domusa.com/shop/buzzed-beer-filament/

Another refernce saying that PLA is UV resistant

http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/pla.htm

Interesting thing when looking up PLA is all the research seems to have started in last 5 years or so.



Only plastic that 3D hubs are listing as UV resistant is SLS printed nylon.

I don't know if / how it would ... and it would defeat the object to
some degree but I wonder if it (a 3d printed object used outside) was
painted with a UV protective paint would help? Like many cars that had
fibreglass panels from the factory tended to last better than the
gelcoat / self coloured ones?

Cheers, T i m

Wondering if correct choice of filler could help outdoor durability. Like the `space dust` used on flat roofs in sunny zones of the world.

One for Dennis , annealing PLA to increase strength, is it done normally at all to bake a plastic 3D print to anneal it?

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21316612

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 09:26:45 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 4:13:38 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
snipped

No, nor PLA as typically used for 3D printing and 'PLA fibers' as
analysed fairly comprehensively he

http://jimluntllc.com/pdfs/polylactic_fibers.pdf

Thing have discovered experimenting with PCL, AKA Polymorph, moulding not 3D printing , is that it will take enormous amounts of filler.PCL mixed with marble dust is used for short run hydraulic press tools.

That must be tough even if only for short runs.

PLA noodle for printing comes in all sorts of flavours, so shares its lower melting temp sisters ability to take a lot of filling.

http://www.3domusa.com/shop/buzzed-beer-filament/

I'll drink to that. ;-)

Another refernce saying that PLA is UV resistant

http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/pla.htm

Yeah, it certainly seem to be more 'UV resistant' than not.

Interesting thing when looking up PLA is all the research seems to have started in last 5 years or so.

I think this whole field is still quite new. You seem to get the core
stuff pretty quickly but the details get filled in later on.

It seems to be where, or maybe a bit later than when I joined the home
computer scene.



Only plastic that 3D hubs are listing as UV resistant is SLS printed nylon.

I don't know if / how it would ... and it would defeat the object to
some degree but I wonder if it (a 3d printed object used outside) was
painted with a UV protective paint would help? Like many cars that had
fibreglass panels from the factory tended to last better than the
gelcoat / self coloured ones?


Wondering if correct choice of filler could help outdoor durability. Like the `space dust` used on flat roofs in sunny zones of the world.

It's possible I guess. 'Doping' to bias it's characteristics for
specific roles.

One for Dennis , annealing PLA to increase strength, is it done normally at all to bake a plastic 3D print to anneal it?

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21316612

I think many solid materials, even those 'poured' can often appreciate
that sort of post creation treatment.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. If Dave's parcel shelf brackets are simple in design (and easy to
swap out) I'd be interested to print him some and see how they fare?

On Friday, 12 February 2016 15:33:53 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
T i m wrote:
Most cars don't let much UV in, the trim would suffer if they did.

As I know from my Sierra dash that was all cracked up?

Old Californian UK cars. No rust but ruined interior.

Puzzled by 'Californian UK cars'


NT

On 12/02/2016 17:26, Adam Aglionby wrote:

One for Dennis , annealing PLA to increase strength, is it done normally at all to bake a plastic 3D print to anneal it?

I don't see many printers doing it automatically unless a heated bed counts.

I dare say some people put the parts in the oven.

Do you have access to the paper to see what they mean by annealing?

"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 11 February 2016 22:13:51 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 10 February 2016 16:23:03 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 10 February 2016 00:36:35 UTC, Graham. wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2016 09:20:08 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Feb 2016 12:14:22 -0800 (PST), Adam Aglionby
wrote:

Started with a Rep-Rap and a `model` castle

http://www.totalkustom.com/3d-castle-completed.html

Saw that previously.

and is moving forward impressively, actual machine building
things
rather
than just renderings

http://www.3ders.org/articles/201509...ted-hotel.html

Brilliant, well, unless you are a bricklayer of course.

Having built and run a Cartesian 3d printer I can feel every
movement
of that concrete printers motions. In fact it seems quite scene
in
comparison with our dinky thing.

Even thought the printer frame has to be pretty strong, rigid
and
accurate, it's funny how any slight imperfections are normally
ironed
out on the next pass (assuming they matter in the first place).

It constantly amazes me re the uses I hear people putting them
to.

A mates daughter makes cakes and (currently) buys (hopes to make
for
herself soon) 3d printed shape cutters for all sort of cake
occasions.

A mate recently bought some new steel framed chairs for his
kitchen
and some of the rubber feet were missing. It took me 5 minutes
to
measure and draw on the PC ... and maybe an hour and a half to
print,
four new feet that he says work better than the originals.

It still seem weird to be able to think of something, draw and
print
it and have it in your hand the same morning (like drilling /
cutting
jigs and templates, brackets and the like).

I still remember the old days when I had to go down the cold
workshop
and file, drill, saw ... ;-)

How long before you can just print new brat or pet when one gets
run
over
etc.

Or print a new wife when you've worn the old one out ?

Do you agree that we need a better word than printer for these
futuristic machines?
Any ideas?

Replicator would do me.

But it's not a replicator if it's designed using
a CAD system and only printed the once.

what has only printed once got to do with it ?

Its clearly not REPLICATING anything if it only happens the once.

got two of these in my lab, earlier models anyway.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8754711/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Computing_And_Peripherals-_-3D_Printing_And_Scanning&mkwid=s5PaDqrLW_dc|pcrid| 88057058523|pkw||pmt||prd|8754711&gclid=CJPB-_nu78oCFc0y0wodHgkAKg

and one of these downstairs

Objet30 Prime

Irrelevant to what a REPLICATOR does.

So what does a replicator do ?

Replicates stuff, stupid.

In article ,
wrote:
On Friday, 12 February 2016 15:33:53 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
T i m wrote:
Most cars don't let much UV in, the trim would suffer if they did.

As I know from my Sierra dash that was all cracked up?

Old Californian UK cars. No rust but ruined interior.

Puzzled by 'Californian UK cars'


Old cars in a dry but hot area tend to survive well in some ways. ie, the
bodies don't rot away. But the interior - plastics etc - self destructs in
the sun. In the UK, it's not uncommon to find an absolutely rotten body
with a decent interior.

I mentioned Californian UK cars as it's a decent source of some older UK
cars like MGs which were exported in quite large numbers to there.

--
*INDECISION is the key to FLEXIBILITY *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 10:44:45 PM UTC, dennis@home wrote:
On 12/02/2016 17:26, Adam Aglionby wrote:

One for Dennis , annealing PLA to increase strength, is it done normally at all to bake a plastic 3D print to anneal it?

I don't see many printers doing it automatically unless a heated bed counts.

I dare say some people put the parts in the oven.

Do you have access to the paper to see what they mean by annealing?

Not the original paper, but heres some recent stuff with home oven method ;-)

`With temperatures ranging from 170 to 200
F and times ranging from 10 to 60 minutes, over 100 samples were tested`

` overall results from the experiment showed very little affect from the annealing process`

https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstrea...=1&isAllowed=y

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
There are lots of different types of plastic. And lots
of different ways of forming it into a shape.

And when that one they did only lasted weeks, they clearly
don't have a ****ing clue about what they are doing.

To assume 3d printed stuff is going to be the equal of all of them

Never assumed anything of the sort. That was JUST a comment
on your stupid claim that that operation is a market leader.

Thanks for confirming you don't understand the term.

You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/16 15:25, Adam Aglionby wrote:
On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 1:13:22 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2016 12:01:24 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

snip

The one experience I've had of 3d printers is some clips made for the
parcel shelf on the old Rover. The originals are plastic and break
after a
few years. The 3D replacements after a few weeks. I eventually made new
ones from ally plate. Which are far stronger.

I'm not sure how PLA (the default 3D printer filament type) fares in
the sunlight yet because I've not had chance to test it but those
things I've printed and tested to destruction seem pretty tough?

And of course there is 3D printing and less than good 3D printing ...

Cheers, T i m

Unfortunately none of the current prinatble plastics appear to like UV
exposure , aprt from post cure

https://www.3dhubs.com/materials

I think the view to take is that robotiic deposition rather than robotic
removal (as in CNC mills and lathes) is the next stage, what you deposit
and how, is rather a wide range of possibilities.

I can imagine a robot with pipes and arms that yu feed sand cement water
and piles of bricks into that lays ten thousand bricks in a day.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Khb5cIq_mO0

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 12 February 2016 15:33:53 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
T i m wrote:
Most cars don't let much UV in, the trim would suffer if they did.

As I know from my Sierra dash that was all cracked up?

Old Californian UK cars. No rust but ruined interior.

Puzzled by 'Californian UK cars'

He means cars made in Britain
which ended up in California.

"F Murtz" wrote in message
eb.com...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/16 15:25, Adam Aglionby wrote:
On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 1:13:22 PM UTC, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2016 12:01:24 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

snip

The one experience I've had of 3d printers is some clips made for the
parcel shelf on the old Rover. The originals are plastic and break
after a
few years. The 3D replacements after a few weeks. I eventually made
new
ones from ally plate. Which are far stronger.

I'm not sure how PLA (the default 3D printer filament type) fares in
the sunlight yet because I've not had chance to test it but those
things I've printed and tested to destruction seem pretty tough?

And of course there is 3D printing and less than good 3D printing ...

Cheers, T i m

Unfortunately none of the current prinatble plastics appear to like UV
exposure , aprt from post cure

https://www.3dhubs.com/materials

I think the view to take is that robotiic deposition rather than robotic
removal (as in CNC mills and lathes) is the next stage, what you deposit
and how, is rather a wide range of possibilities.

I can imagine a robot with pipes and arms that yu feed sand cement water
and piles of bricks into that lays ten thousand bricks in a day.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Khb5cIq_mO0

Bit primitive having the apes stuffing the bricks into the top of it.

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 10:44:45 PM UTC, dennis@home wrote:
On 12/02/2016 17:26, Adam Aglionby wrote:

One for Dennis , annealing PLA to increase strength, is it done normally at all to bake a plastic 3D print to anneal it?

I don't see many printers doing it automatically unless a heated bed counts.

I dare say some people put the parts in the oven.

Do you have access to the paper to see what they mean by annealing?

Injection rather than printed parts with a more accurate oven ;-)

http://www.4spepro.org/view.php?arti...392-2014-03-28

and depends on your blend of PLA, high temp annealable

http://www.proto-pasta.com/collectio...-temp-pla-v2-0