Weedkiller / root killer
I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid
concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas |
Weedkiller / root killer
"ss" wrote in message ... I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas Chop them off, dig them out. You need a few inches of scalpings/chippings/coarse sand under your new slabs anyway. You can put some weedproof fabric down the hole before you put in the scalpings. Not that is works so good anyway. If you kill your neighbour's trees with weedkiller you won't be popular. |
Weedkiller / root killer
If you kill the plants you could be in trouble with your neighbour. I guess
if they are well established you could cut them off at the boundary, but trying to stop them growing back is going to mean killing the plants. Brian -- From the Bed of Brian Gaff. The email is valid as Blind user. "ss" wrote in message ... I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 19/07/2013 18:38, Brian Gaff wrote:
If you kill the plants you could be in trouble with your neighbour. I guess if they are well established you could cut them off at the boundary, but trying to stop them growing back is going to mean killing the plants. Brian It would be classed as common land on the side the tress/shrubs are growing, its not an adjoining property. If there is some `die back` it wouldnt be an issue as the maintenance/management company find it a pain having to come and trim them and are quite happy if we control them although a complete kill off would cause some concern. The main root system will be over the wall so what I have, if killed would maybe stunt them but I doubt if it would kill them. |
Weedkiller / root killer
ss wrote:
I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. I've come across this many times...firstly, weedkiller doesn't work on roots, it has to go in via the leaves, and it doesn't do anything to tree roots anyway, at least not for many years after the tree is dead. Best bet is to dig a trench along the wall where the offending plants / trees are and chop everything off to a depth of a foot or two, then infill with MOT, also throw a bag of cement in there and mix it up with a spade as you're spreading it, this will effectively make the wall foundations a bit more beefed up and hopefully keep the roots away for a decade or two. Rake over the area you are working on and slice through anything that won't pull out, then re-lay the slabs as normal |
Weedkiller / root killer
harryagain wrote:
"ss" wrote in message ... I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas Chop them off, dig them out. You need a few inches of scalpings/chippings/coarse sand under your new slabs anyway. You can put some weedproof fabric down the hole before you put in the scalpings. Not that is works so good anyway. If you kill your neighbour's trees with weedkiller you won't be popular. This was discussed some time ago in the legal group. It would appear that any action that is taken to 'abate the nuisance' is fine, even if the plant concerned winds up dead. I suggest the OP reposts in the moderated legal group for more accurate information. -- Terry Fields |
Weedkiller / root killer
Terry Fields wrote:
This was discussed some time ago in the legal group. It would appear that any action that is taken to 'abate the nuisance' is fine, even if the plant concerned winds up dead. I suggest the OP reposts in the moderated legal group for more accurate information. I wouldn't advocate killing the shrubs in question, nor would it serve any real purpose, in fact, I'd say it would create another problem for the OP - if the shrubs die, a year or two down the line the roots will rot away, and that's when his newly laid patio sinks. |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 19/07/13 17:44, ss wrote:
I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas the best thing to do really is to dig a trench down a few feet at the property or path boundary, cutting all the roots. The depth will depend on what the roots are from. Some trees go very deep. Others are relatively shallow And fill it with concrete. It needn't be wide at all. killing the roots with anything but something that poisons the soil forever is useless. They will come back. The concrete wall will imply let the roots inside it die, and prevent more lateral creep You MAY be able to simply drive some steel shuttering down instead. But the trick is to cut the roots and put in a barrier/. -- Ineptocracy (in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers. |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 19/07/13 19:38, Phil L wrote:
ss wrote: I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. I've come across this many times...firstly, weedkiller doesn't work on roots, it has to go in via the leaves, and it doesn't do anything to tree roots anyway, at least not for many years after the tree is dead. Best bet is to dig a trench along the wall where the offending plants / trees are and chop everything off to a depth of a foot or two, then infill with MOT, also throw a bag of cement in there and mix it up with a spade as you're spreading it, this will effectively make the wall foundations a bit more beefed up and hopefully keep the roots away for a decade or two. Rake over the area you are working on and slice through anything that won't pull out, then re-lay the slabs as normal + 0.5 MOT wont stop roots coming back. Use concrete instead. -- Ineptocracy (in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers. |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 19/07/2013 19:59, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 19/07/13 17:44, ss wrote: I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas the best thing to do really is to dig a trench down a few feet at the property or path boundary, cutting all the roots. The depth will depend on what the roots are from. Some trees go very deep. Others are relatively shallow And fill it with concrete. It needn't be wide at all. killing the roots with anything but something that poisons the soil forever is useless. They will come back. The concrete wall will imply let the roots inside it die, and prevent more lateral creep You MAY be able to simply drive some steel shuttering down instead. But the trick is to cut the roots and put in a barrier/. Thanks for the replies so far but to add to my problem ...I have just built a 40 foot fence along the boundary wall and digging out the post holes (using a manual auger) was tough going in places mainly due to stones the roots didnt cause too much of an issue, its probably fair to say that the roots have been snapped every 6 feet, I got most posts down between 18-22 inches, having built this and in my 60s this plus moving some slabs appears to have weakened my back so I wont be digging a trench hence looking for something to kill the roots my side, most of the patio area is and will remain intact, the strip where the roots are is only 13" wide and about 30 feet long but had badly laid concrete which I have now lifted. As I probably wont be around in 10 years I am not too concerned if they eventually re appear, the current root formations havent caused any issues that I can see. Now I know it cant be bought and it is banned now but would #odium klorate have done the trick. |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 19/07/13 21:36, ss wrote:
On 19/07/2013 19:59, The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 19/07/13 17:44, ss wrote: I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas the best thing to do really is to dig a trench down a few feet at the property or path boundary, cutting all the roots. The depth will depend on what the roots are from. Some trees go very deep. Others are relatively shallow And fill it with concrete. It needn't be wide at all. killing the roots with anything but something that poisons the soil forever is useless. They will come back. The concrete wall will imply let the roots inside it die, and prevent more lateral creep You MAY be able to simply drive some steel shuttering down instead. But the trick is to cut the roots and put in a barrier/. Thanks for the replies so far but to add to my problem ...I have just built a 40 foot fence along the boundary wall and digging out the post holes (using a manual auger) was tough going in places mainly due to stones the roots didnt cause too much of an issue, its probably fair to say that the roots have been snapped every 6 feet, I got most posts down between 18-22 inches, having built this and in my 60s this plus moving some slabs appears to have weakened my back so I wont be digging a trench hence looking for something to kill the roots my side, most of the patio area is and will remain intact, the strip where the roots are is only 13" wide and about 30 feet long but had badly laid concrete which I have now lifted. As I probably wont be around in 10 years I am not too concerned if they eventually re appear, the current root formations havent caused any issues that I can see. Now I know it cant be bought and it is banned now but would #odium klorate have done the trick. hire a mini digger. The smallest will do. -- Ineptocracy (in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers. |
Weedkiller / root killer
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 19/07/13 19:38, Phil L wrote: ss wrote: I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. I've come across this many times...firstly, weedkiller doesn't work on roots, it has to go in via the leaves, and it doesn't do anything to tree roots anyway, at least not for many years after the tree is dead. Best bet is to dig a trench along the wall where the offending plants / trees are and chop everything off to a depth of a foot or two, then infill with MOT, also throw a bag of cement in there and mix it up with a spade as you're spreading it, this will effectively make the wall foundations a bit more beefed up and hopefully keep the roots away for a decade or two. Rake over the area you are working on and slice through anything that won't pull out, then re-lay the slabs as normal + 0.5 MOT wont stop roots coming back. Use concrete instead. MOT + cement is a fairly strong concrete when it goes off...it would probably be better concreted, but I mentioned MOT trhinking that he probably had some on site for his paving |
Weedkiller / root killer
ss wrote:
Thanks for the replies so far but to add to my problem ...I have just built a 40 foot fence along the boundary wall and digging out the post holes (using a manual auger) was tough going in places mainly due to stones the roots didnt cause too much of an issue, its probably fair to say that the roots have been snapped every 6 feet, I got most posts down between 18-22 inches, having built this and in my 60s this plus moving some slabs appears to have weakened my back so I wont be digging a trench hence looking for something to kill the roots my side, most of the patio area is and will remain intact, the strip where the roots are is only 13" wide and about 30 feet long but had badly laid concrete which I have now lifted. As I probably wont be around in 10 years I am not too concerned if they eventually re appear, the current root formations havent caused any issues that I can see. Now I know it cant be bought and it is banned now but would #odium klorate have done the trick. No. No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, IE inside the plant, so you only have a few options, you chop off what you can and pave over, or you chop off what you can, install a barrier (concrete-in-a-trench, roof slates, pvc sheeting, steel plates etc) and pave over, the latter will keep the roots away longer than the former, but I wouldn't bother anyway if I were you, what difference does it make if there's a few flimsy roots under the slabs?- they don't sound like they're big enough to push the slabs around. don't waste your money on any wonder liquid that promises instant root destruction, no easy 'solution' exists |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 20/07/13 15:12, Huge wrote:
On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." In the day i used tons of that stuff. it simply washed away and plants came back after a few years. -- Ineptocracy (in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers. |
Weedkiller / root killer
Huge wrote:
On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." It 'can' kill through root absorption, not *will*, the chances are it would kill flimsy weeds like grass etc through the roots, hardly likely to have any effect whatsoever on a tree, unless it was used in industrial amounts, and obviously, if it was even available at all, which it isn't, which makes it a moot point. |
Weedkiller / root killer
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/07/13 15:12, Huge wrote: On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." In the day i used tons of that stuff. it simply washed away and plants came back after a few years. I used it twice a year on a large paved area infested with horsetail ferns, applied at double strength through a watering can. It wilted some of them, killed some of them and some were completely unnaffected. I'd apply in spring and pull out everything still growing after a week, then the same in late summer. It never got rid of them, even after about 10 treatments |
Weedkiller / root killer
Phil L wrote:
Huge wrote: On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." It 'can' kill through root absorption, not *will*, the chances are it would kill flimsy weeds like grass etc through the roots, hardly likely to have any effect whatsoever on a tree, unless it was used in industrial amounts, and obviously, if it was even available at all, which it isn't, which makes it a moot point. For ****s sake, why not just admit that you are wrong? As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. "the product enters weeds mainly through their roots" http://www.ospray.com.au/msds/index....ides&Itemid=53 -- Burn Hollywood burn, burn down to the ground |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 20/07/2013 18:44, Phil L wrote:
Huge wrote: On 2013-07-20, Phil wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." It 'can' kill through root absorption, not *will*, the chances are it would kill flimsy weeds like grass etc through the roots, hardly likely to have any effect whatsoever on a tree, unless it was used in industrial amounts, and obviously, if it was even available at all, which it isn't, which makes it a moot point. ;-) Bear in mind I dont want to kill the trees just stun the growth at my side of the wall |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 20/07/2013 20:24, Steve Firth wrote:
Phil wrote: Huge wrote: On 2013-07-20, Phil wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." It 'can' kill through root absorption, not *will*, the chances are it would kill flimsy weeds like grass etc through the roots, hardly likely to have any effect whatsoever on a tree, unless it was used in industrial amounts, and obviously, if it was even available at all, which it isn't, which makes it a moot point. For ****s sake, why not just admit that you are wrong? As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. "the product enters weeds mainly through their roots" http://www.ospray.com.au/msds/index....ides&Itemid=53 Well as its a thin strip and will only take around a couple of gallons of solution I will rip out what roots I can and then dose the ground with a mixture of whatever I have of various lawn and pathclear variants, i`ll make it a strong mixture. Fill in the strip with cut to size slabs and grout with a strong cement mix. |
Weedkiller / root killer
Steve Firth wrote:
For ****s sake, why not just admit that you are wrong? As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. "the product enters weeds mainly through their roots" http://www.ospray.com.au/msds/index....ides&Itemid=53 And where in the uk sells either? |
Weedkiller / root killer
Huge wrote:
On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: Huge wrote: On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems, Tosh. "Sodium chlorate is used as a non-selective herbicide. It is considered phytotoxic to all green plant parts. It can also kill through root absorption." It 'can' kill through root absorption, not *will*, the chances are it would kill flimsy weeds like grass etc through the roots, hardly likely to have any effect whatsoever on a tree, unless it was used in industrial amounts, and obviously, if it was even available at all, which it isn't, which makes it a moot point. Ah, so when you said "No weedkiller ...", you were lying? As well as being wrong, that is. As the group name contains 'uk' I assumed the OP was in this country, and as it's not available in the uk, perhaps i should have said, no weedkiller available in the UK? |
Weedkiller / root killer
Phil L wrote:
Steve Firth wrote: For ****s sake, why not just admit that you are wrong? As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. "the product enters weeds mainly through their roots" http://www.ospray.com.au/msds/index....view=article&i d=105:simazine-500&catid=34:herbicides&Itemid=53 And where in the uk sells either? You said, "No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems" You were utterly incorrect to say that. Simazine is one weedkiller that will kill without "going through the leaves and down the stems". So now you're proving that you're the sortof idiot who can't be bothered to admit when he is wrong and who wants to bull**** and bluster, rather than to admit that he was wrong. OK, limiting my options to weedkiller that are available right now in the UK: 1. Glyphosate does not need to be absorbed through leaves. It can be applied to stumps and roots and will kill trees stumps and roots. So even the weedkiller that you probably had in mind does not work as you imagine. You can buy "Tree Stump Killer" which is glyphosate from Bayer, in the UK. 2. Flufenacet is a pre-emergent soil herbicide. It is not absorbed via leaves. It is sold in the UK by several suppliers including Bayer. 3. Metosulam is an emergent soil herbicide, it is absorbed via roots. It is sold in the UK by Bayer. 4. Pendimethalin, rapidly absorbed by primary roots acts by stopping their development, doesn't "creep" in soil, probably ideal for the OP's application. Sold as "Stomp" by BASF in the UK. You also stated: "Don't waste your money on any wonder liquid that promises instant root destruction, no easy 'solution' exists" You lied. There are a number of herbicides intended to clear roots from land, these include Bayer Path Weedkiller, Bayer Long Lasting Ground Clear, Bayer Tree Stump Killer, BASF Stomp. All licenced for use in the UK. What's your next wriggle going to be? -- Burn Hollywood burn, burn down to the ground |
Weedkiller / root killer
Huge wrote:
On 2013-07-20, Phil L wrote: Steve Firth wrote: For ****s sake, why not just admit that you are wrong? As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. "the product enters weeds mainly through their roots" http://www.ospray.com.au/msds/index....ides&Itemid=53 And where in the uk sells either? "No weedkiller ..." Moron. Right, right, so the OP can take a short trip to Australia to buy some, then try to smuggle it into the UK? Get a ****ing grip. After a brief search through your posts to this group, it appears you are another argumentative prick, only here to throw pedantic ****e about and offer no advice whatsoever to anyone WRT diy....add me to your killfile - that appears to be your MO when you meet someone with more brain cells than yourself |
Weedkiller / root killer
Steve Firth wrote:
Phil L wrote: Steve Firth wrote: For ****s sake, why not just admit that you are wrong? As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. "the product enters weeds mainly through their roots" http://www.ospray.com.au/msds/index....view=article&i d=105:simazine-500&catid=34:herbicides&Itemid=53 And where in the uk sells either? You said, "No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems" You were utterly incorrect to say that. Simazine is one weedkiller that will kill without "going through the leaves and down the stems". We live in the UK, it's right there in the group name So now you're proving that you're the sortof idiot who can't be bothered to admit when he is wrong and who wants to bull**** and bluster, rather than to admit that he was wrong. For trees, we're talking about trees, read the op: 'trees/shrubs/ivy' and don't start throwing insults around OK, limiting my options to weedkiller that are available right now in the UK: 1. Glyphosate does not need to be absorbed through leaves. It can be applied to stumps and roots and will kill trees stumps and roots. So even the weedkiller that you probably had in mind does not work as you imagine. You can buy "Tree Stump Killer" which is glyphosate from Bayer, in the UK. 2. Flufenacet is a pre-emergent soil herbicide. It is not absorbed via leaves. It is sold in the UK by several suppliers including Bayer. kills grass and broad leaved weeds, as do: 3. Metosulam is an emergent soil herbicide, it is absorbed via roots. It is sold in the UK by Bayer. 4. Pendimethalin, rapidly absorbed by primary roots acts by stopping their development, doesn't "creep" in soil, probably ideal for the OP's application. Sold as "Stomp" by BASF in the UK. You also stated: "Don't waste your money on any wonder liquid that promises instant root destruction, no easy 'solution' exists" You lied. There are a number of herbicides intended to clear roots from land, these include Bayer Path Weedkiller, Bayer Long Lasting Ground Clear, Bayer Tree Stump Killer, BASF Stomp. All licenced for use in the UK. What's your next wriggle going to be? Clear roots from land? - so if I water a 30ft conifer with it, it'll be dead next week? *Instant* root destruction. The OP isn't going on holiday to Australia to buy weedkiller, nor is he likely to spend hundreds on weedkiller that won't work, he's already stated that he's going to rip out the roots, treat the ground and re-lay, unless you can point me to a weedkiller, available in the uk, that can be watered on *tree* roots and kill the *tree*, don't bother replying. |
Weedkiller / root killer
Phil L wrote:
[snip twaddle] What's your next wriggle going to be? Clear roots from land? - so if I water a 30ft conifer with it, it'll be dead next week? No, if you apply tree stump killer as directed in the instructions then it will be dead in about 21 days. *Instant* root destruction. Not something that the OP asked for. The word "instant" is a weasel word inserted by an ignorant weasel too ****ing stupid to admit that he was talking crap. The OP isn't going on holiday to Australia to buy weedkiller, No one said that the OP had to go to Australia. nor is he likely to spend hundreds on weedkiller that won't work, Weedkillers don't cost "hundreds", your claim that no weedkiler will work is ********. he's already stated that he's going to rip out the roots, treat the ground and re-lay, unless you can point me to a weedkiller, available in the uk, that can be watered on *tree* roots and kill the *tree*, don't bother replying. yawn And you have already shown your ignorance by being unaware of the meaning of the term broad leaved and your initial ******** that claimed that weedkillers are only absorbed via leaves. And you're ignoring the weedkillers that I listed, including glyphosate, that can be watered onto roots. Why not just **** off back to tedious lying **** land where you came from? -- Burn Hollywood burn, burn down to the ground |
Weedkiller / root killer
Steve Firth wrote:
a pile of worthless ****e Why not just **** off back to tedious lying **** land where you came from? I see. So you're just another useless, know-nothing **** who gets his kicks from strolling around usenet, pontificating about things you know nothing about, probably never got your hands dirty in your life, but your an expert on everything, you contribute **** all to the group, only bobbing your head in periodically to start an argument, and my guess is that you are a weedy, henpecked failure, so you have to argue online, because you're too **** scared to say anything to anyone in real life, get one, you sad, worthless gob****e. |
Weedkiller / root killer
Phil L wrote:
I said you can't kill a tree with weedkiller, No you didn't, you're telling a lie. This is what you said: "No weedkiller will kill the roots without going through the leaves and down the stems" Which is ********. As is your new statement above. You can kill trees effectively with glyphosate. I have done so myself killing a Pseudoacacia the roots of which were doing damage to a pig sty. Since you're Phil Phuckwit, I'll spell it out for you, Pseudoacacia are buggers to kill. Cut them down and the root stock suckers and you have tens to hundreds of saplings to deal with. It's as difficult to kill as elder. Treating the stump with 150g/L glyphosate (stump killer) killed it dead and all of the suckers. There was no foliage to absorb the weedkiller. There was no need for there to be any, your claim was complete and utter cack. The fact that you have changed your story on every re-telling lets onlookers know who the worthless **** is here, and in the words of the National Lottery, "it's you" because you're too ****ing stupid to admit that you made a mistake, or rather were talking about something of which you have no knowledge whatsoever. You've been given numerous chances to back up your claim with fact, and you haven't done so even once. You have been shown chapter and verse on herbicides that kill via the roots and on the use of specialist root and stump killers. You deny the evidence of your own eyes. You are possibly the biggest ****ing idiot in this group, and given that you have competition from OneCrap, harry and idiot posting under numerous pseudonyms you've finally acheived something in your miserable existence. whereupon you flew into a blind rage, yawn Lie. trawling Australian websites to prove a point, yawn Lie. I know that simazine doesn't have the mode of action that you describe. It's a commonly used weedkiller and was aproved for use in the UK until the weak-kneed idiots in Parliament got knobbled by the "greens". I've used it myself. I gave a reference to that website because it specifically lists its mode of action - via the roots. Something that according to you is not possible (see above). but instead shown everyone on here that you are indeed the biggest **** in the group, psst, most of them already knew, but thanks for removing all doubt, you are a ****** of the highest order, it's just a pity your dad wasn't. Bless, you talked crap, you've been called out on the fact and even now you're not man enough to admit that you were talking ********. That's most funny. Go on, tell us again how weedkiller costs "hundreds of pounds" that was another load of ******** from you that you're too stupid to retract. -- Burn Hollywood burn, burn down to the ground |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 21/07/13 19:55, Phil L wrote:
Steve Firth wrote: Bwhahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahahaha How deliquescent You dolt. I've forgotten more about agrochemistry than you ever knew. Not only did I study the biochemistry of herbicides as part of my degree course I own a farm as well. Steve: cannabis farms don't count. -- Ineptocracy (in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers. |
Weedkiller / root killer
Huge wrote:
On 2013-07-21, Phil L wrote: Steve Firth wrote: a pile of worthless ****e Why not just **** off back to tedious lying **** land where you came from? I see. So you're just another useless, know-nothing Hypocritical ****. Oh don't sell him short. He's a lying hypocritical ****. I could sit here and iist herbicides that are absorbed through the roots until I exhausted all known catalogues of agrochemicals and he'd still claim that his statement was correct. -- €˘DarWin| _/ _/ |
Weedkiller / root killer
snip
As well as chlorate there is simazine which is a pre-emergent herbicide. snip Simazine is no longer available :-( |
Weedkiller / root killer
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 02:31:46 +0100, (Steve Firth)
wrote: Bayer Tree Stump Killer A farming trick around here (likely used elsewhere too) is drill a few 1" holes a few inches deep in the stump, fill them with nitrate fertiliser and leave for a couple of months. Sceptical of this, I tried it and found it works rather well. Stump dies right off, rots away nicely. |
Weedkiller / root killer
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 02:31:46 +0100, (Steve Firth) wrote: Bayer Tree Stump Killer A farming trick around here (likely used elsewhere too) is drill a few 1" holes a few inches deep in the stump, fill them with nitrate fertiliser and leave for a couple of months. Sceptical of this, I tried it and found it works rather well. Stump dies right off, rots away nicely. That's what we did for the Robinia stump, except I filled the holes with glyphosate. I've got cherry suckers in the garden that will get similar treatment this weekend. -- €˘DarWin| _/ _/ |
Weedkiller / root killer
On 19/07/2013 17:44, ss wrote:
I am recently re laying some 2 x 3 slabs and replacing some badly laid concrete with matching slabs, under the concrete there is a network of roots, mostly fine stuff but a few at a 1cm thickness. What is the best way to deal with this, ideally one of the weedkillers that will kill it off and prevent regrowth for as long as possible. The roots belong to trees/shrubs/ivy which is on the other side of my wall and the roots have over the years forced their way through onto my land so I cant attack by spraying the leaves as the shrubs are not my property. Any ideas Under my patio, paths & crushed slate areas after levelling I sprinkled a dusting of BORACIL weedkiller. Also sold as Bromacil (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromacil) Then terram. Nothing is going to grow through. |
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