[Lobster]

Investigating the cause of a damp patch on an internal wall, I discovered a
crack in a cast-iron downpipe; looking at it more closely I found that the
crack actually runs the entire circumference of the pipe, and it's possible
to raise the upper section and see daylight between it andthe lower
section.

********.

I know it would be a relatively trivial matter to replace the downpipe with
a 'nice new' plastic item; however, I'm rather attached to my original 100-
year-old cast-iron rainwater goods, and I'd really prefer to hang on to it
and repair it instead.

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

Thanks
--
David

[Ian Jackson[_2_]]

In message , Lobster
writes
Investigating the cause of a damp patch on an internal wall, I discovered a
crack in a cast-iron downpipe; looking at it more closely I found that the
crack actually runs the entire circumference of the pipe, and it's possible
to raise the upper section and see daylight between it andthe lower
section.

********.

I know it would be a relatively trivial matter to replace the downpipe with
a 'nice new' plastic item; however, I'm rather attached to my original 100-
year-old cast-iron rainwater goods, and I'd really prefer to hang on to it
and repair it instead.

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

Thanks

I'd be tempted to fashion a sleeve - possibly from a bit of plastic pipe
of similar diameter or slightly larger diameter. Cut the plastic pipe in
half - into two 'shells' - that can be offered up to each side of the
cast iron pipe. To get a good fit, a hot air gun can be used to soften
and slightly re-shape the plastic pipe.

The actual gap in between the two halves of the pipe could be bridged by
self-amalgamating tape (although this might not be necessary)

Butter-up the inner sides of the two halves of the shells with car body
filler (preferably the plastic type of Plastic Padding), and place on
each side of the cast iron pipe to form the sleeve. Hold in place with
wire or very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike -
like say several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).
--
Ian

[nightjar]

On 13/11/2014 23:03, Lobster wrote:
Investigating the cause of a damp patch on an internal wall, I discovered a
crack in a cast-iron downpipe; looking at it more closely I found that the
crack actually runs the entire circumference of the pipe, and it's possible
to raise the upper section and see daylight between it andthe lower
section.

********.

I know it would be a relatively trivial matter to replace the downpipe with
a 'nice new' plastic item; however, I'm rather attached to my original 100-
year-old cast-iron rainwater goods, and I'd really prefer to hang on to it
and repair it instead.

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

Thanks


As all you really need to do is stop it from leaking, I would lift the
upper part, clean the faces as best you can, apply gutter mastic and
join the two parts again. If it makes you feel more secure, put a bit of
flashband around the back half, covering the join.

--
Colin Bignell

[John Rumm]

On 13/11/2014 23:03, Lobster wrote:
Investigating the cause of a damp patch on an internal wall, I discovered a
crack in a cast-iron downpipe; looking at it more closely I found that the
crack actually runs the entire circumference of the pipe, and it's possible
to raise the upper section and see daylight between it andthe lower
section.

********.

I know it would be a relatively trivial matter to replace the downpipe with
a 'nice new' plastic item; however, I'm rather attached to my original 100-
year-old cast-iron rainwater goods, and I'd really prefer to hang on to it
and repair it instead.

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

If you want the "complete" repair, then clean off the paint, grind the
edge down so that the join is vee groove, preheat both bits to a couple
of hundred degrees, then braise in a joint. Once cooled off, grind flat
and repaint.

for an easier repair, cut the pipe with an angle grinder and stick in a
coupler. Cover that with a cast effect pipe shroud. e.g:

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/110m...il-Coupler.htm

then

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/110m...ud---Plain.htm

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

[Bill Wright[_2_]]

Ian Jackson wrote:

wire or very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike -
like say several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).

Halfords and B & Q do very long ones. About 1m I think.

Bill

[Ian Jackson[_2_]]

In message , Bill Wright
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:

wire or very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike -
like say several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).

Halfords and B & Q do very long ones. About 1m I think.

They would be perfect. I'd use four of them - one at the top and bottom
of the sleeve, and one about an inch either side if the break.

But just a thought......
There's been a gas leak (on three occasions) in the cast iron mains pipe
buried deep in the verge outside my house. The pipe was about 4"
diameter, and they used a purpose-made sleeve to fix it. Presumably the
gas repairers have a stock of standard sleeves of various diameters, so
it might be useful to contact them to see if they can supply one. Of
course, such sleeves may be a standard part elsewhere in the
construction industry.

And a further thought....
Instead of car body filler, why not consider something rubbery - maybe a
piece of smooth rubber matting about 3mm thick.
--
Ian

[nightjar]

On 14/11/2014 04:55, Bill Wright wrote:
Ian Jackson wrote:

wire or very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike -
like say several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).

Halfords and B & Q do very long ones. About 1m I think.

I buy mine, in the exact size needed*, from my local branch of these people:

http://www.hayley-group.co.uk/

They do a very quick delivery and are cheaper than buying the same clips
from the local agricultural supplier. If you do go down this route,
which I think will look awful, remember to specify stainless steel
Jubilee clips.

* Sizes he

http://www.jubileeclips.co.uk/products/original/


--
Colin Bignell

[Brian Gaff[_2_]]

if the pipe is painted though you would need to get rid of that. Most cast
iron is not that smooth, so you would need some kind of non shrinking filler
as mentioned.

A word of warning though. Are you absolutely sure there are no other cracks
in the pipe? It tends to happen to cast iron if under any stress for a long
time that cracks grow and propagate, depending on where the minute flaws
are. It might be that in the end a new plastic pipe is less of a hassle.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Ian Jackson" wrote in message
...
In message , Lobster
writes
Investigating the cause of a damp patch on an internal wall, I discovered
a
crack in a cast-iron downpipe; looking at it more closely I found that the
crack actually runs the entire circumference of the pipe, and it's
possible
to raise the upper section and see daylight between it andthe lower
section.

********.

I know it would be a relatively trivial matter to replace the downpipe
with
a 'nice new' plastic item; however, I'm rather attached to my original
100-
year-old cast-iron rainwater goods, and I'd really prefer to hang on to it
and repair it instead.

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

Thanks

I'd be tempted to fashion a sleeve - possibly from a bit of plastic pipe
of similar diameter or slightly larger diameter. Cut the plastic pipe in
half - into two 'shells' - that can be offered up to each side of the cast
iron pipe. To get a good fit, a hot air gun can be used to soften and
slightly re-shape the plastic pipe.

The actual gap in between the two halves of the pipe could be bridged by
self-amalgamating tape (although this might not be necessary)

Butter-up the inner sides of the two halves of the shells with car body
filler (preferably the plastic type of Plastic Padding), and place on each
side of the cast iron pipe to form the sleeve. Hold in place with wire or
very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike - like say
several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).
--
Ian

[Bod[_3_]]

On 14/11/2014 08:58, Brian Gaff wrote:
if the pipe is painted though you would need to get rid of that. Most cast
iron is not that smooth, so you would need some kind of non shrinking filler
as mentioned.

A word of warning though. Are you absolutely sure there are no other cracks
in the pipe? It tends to happen to cast iron if under any stress for a long
time that cracks grow and propagate, depending on where the minute flaws
are. It might be that in the end a new plastic pipe is less of a hassle.
Brian

That sounds like a complete lash up. If he wants to preserve the
authentic look of the pipe, he'd do better to Google for a replacement
pipe for that particular cracked section, IMO.

[nightjar]

On 14/11/2014 09:06, Bod wrote:
On 14/11/2014 08:58, Brian Gaff wrote:
if the pipe is painted though you would need to get rid of that. Most
cast
iron is not that smooth, so you would need some kind of non shrinking
filler
as mentioned.

A word of warning though. Are you absolutely sure there are no other
cracks
in the pipe? It tends to happen to cast iron if under any stress for a
long
time that cracks grow and propagate, depending on where the minute flaws
are. It might be that in the end a new plastic pipe is less of a hassle.
Brian

That sounds like a complete lash up. If he wants to preserve the
authentic look of the pipe, he'd do better to Google for a replacement
pipe for that particular cracked section, IMO.

Certainly a better option, but he did ask for a repair and IMO, this is
the simplest way to meet the need to stop the leak. BTW it should be
possible to get an identical looking replacement in cast aluminium,
which is easier to handle and is less brittle.

--
Colin Bignell

[Bod[_3_]]

On 14/11/2014 11:40, "Nightjar \"cpb\""@ insert my surname here wrote:
On 14/11/2014 09:06, Bod wrote:
On 14/11/2014 08:58, Brian Gaff wrote:
if the pipe is painted though you would need to get rid of that. Most
cast
iron is not that smooth, so you would need some kind of non shrinking
filler
as mentioned.

A word of warning though. Are you absolutely sure there are no other
cracks
in the pipe? It tends to happen to cast iron if under any stress for a
long
time that cracks grow and propagate, depending on where the minute flaws
are. It might be that in the end a new plastic pipe is less of a hassle.
Brian

That sounds like a complete lash up. If he wants to preserve the
authentic look of the pipe, he'd do better to Google for a replacement
pipe for that particular cracked section, IMO.

Certainly a better option, but he did ask for a repair and IMO, this is
the simplest way to meet the need to stop the leak. BTW it should be
possible to get an identical looking replacement in cast aluminium,
which is easier to handle and is less brittle.

Yes, an aluminium replacement is a good idea, maybe a bit pricey though,
I would have thought.

[nightjar]

On 14/11/2014 12:28, Bod wrote:
On 14/11/2014 11:40, "Nightjar \"cpb\""@ insert my surname here wrote:
....
Yes, an aluminium replacement is a good idea, maybe a bit pricey though,
I would have thought.

For a one off that should outlast the buyer?

--
Colin Bignell

[Tim+[_2_]]

Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Bill Wright writes
Ian Jackson wrote:

wire or very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike -
like say several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).

Halfords and B & Q do very long ones. About 1m I think.

They would be perfect. I'd use four of them - one at the top and bottom
of the sleeve, and one about an inch either side if the break.

But just a thought......
There's been a gas leak (on three occasions) in the cast iron mains pipe
buried deep in the verge outside my house. The pipe was about 4"
diameter, and they used a purpose-made sleeve to fix it. Presumably the
gas repairers have a stock of standard sleeves of various diameters, so
it might be useful to contact them to see if they can supply one. Of
course, such sleeves may be a standard part elsewhere in the construction industry.

And a further thought....
Instead of car body filler, why not consider something rubbery - maybe a
piece of smooth rubber matting about 3mm thick.

Seems a lot of trouble for an unattractive result. I would have thought a
bit of flashing tape like this would be adequate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BITUBOND-S...3D191396883376

Tim

[Bod[_3_]]

On 14/11/2014 13:56, "Nightjar \"cpb\""@ insert my surname here wrote:
On 14/11/2014 12:28, Bod wrote:
On 14/11/2014 11:40, "Nightjar \"cpb\""@ insert my surname here wrote:
...
Yes, an aluminium replacement is a good idea, maybe a bit pricey though,
I would have thought.

For a one off that should outlast the buyer?

Yes I would certainly hope so.

[Lobster]

On 14 Nov 2014, John Rumm grunted:

On 13/11/2014 23:03, Lobster wrote:

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

for an easier repair, cut the pipe with an angle grinder and stick in
a coupler. Cover that with a cast effect pipe shroud. e.g:

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/110m...on-Style-Soil-
Range/110mm-
Cast-Iron-Style-Soil-Coupler.htm

then

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/110m...on-Style-Soil-
Range/110mm-
Cast-Iron-Style-Optional-Socket-Shroud---Plain.htm

Thanks all for the replies - some really useful info there. I think I
may use a hybrid of several responses! I've stopped it leaking for now
with h/d polythene sheeting and wire, so hopefully this job can now wait
till nicer weather next year.

Am particularly interested in the plastic 'lookalike' cast-iron stuff
above (or the Al range mentioned elsewhere) - I've never come across
that before. I have an immediate application for it. Several years ago
we had a block-paved drive done; there was a rather odd but quirky short
length of original downpipe which traversed a wall at 45 degrees to a
gully in the drive, but was admittedly in need of some maintenance. I
came home to find that the paving guy had removed and destroyed it, and
fitted a replacment modern placky component - a perfectly competent job,
and as he proudly said, at no extra cost - he took great pride in his
work and liked to leave a neat and tidy job and a happy customer.
"Thanks very much" I said, while inside screaming "AARGH - NOOOO!"

--
David

[newshound]

On 13/11/2014 23:51, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Lobster
writes
Investigating the cause of a damp patch on an internal wall, I
discovered a
crack in a cast-iron downpipe; looking at it more closely I found that
the
crack actually runs the entire circumference of the pipe, and it's
possible
to raise the upper section and see daylight between it andthe lower
section.

********.

I know it would be a relatively trivial matter to replace the downpipe
with
a 'nice new' plastic item; however, I'm rather attached to my original
100-
year-old cast-iron rainwater goods, and I'd really prefer to hang on
to it
and repair it instead.

What would be the panel's reccommended method?

Thanks

I'd be tempted to fashion a sleeve - possibly from a bit of plastic pipe
of similar diameter or slightly larger diameter. Cut the plastic pipe in
half - into two 'shells' - that can be offered up to each side of the
cast iron pipe. To get a good fit, a hot air gun can be used to soften
and slightly re-shape the plastic pipe.

The actual gap in between the two halves of the pipe could be bridged by
self-amalgamating tape (although this might not be necessary)

Butter-up the inner sides of the two halves of the shells with car body
filler (preferably the plastic type of Plastic Padding), and place on
each side of the cast iron pipe to form the sleeve. Hold in place with
wire or very large cable ties - or something much more businesslike -
like say several large Jubilee clips ('in series', as required).

I'd go for an *internal* sleeve; standard downpipe is probably too
large, but cut a suitable width axial slit so that it springs inside.
Fix with non-setting mastic, this can also be trowelled into the
external crack. Obviously, you would need to take down at least part of
the downpipe to do this.

[Celebration]

replying to Lobster, Celebration wrote:
So Lobster, interested in how this story ended: what did you did and are you
happy with the result?
I'm in a similar position, two front drainpipes in need of TLC but the local
tradesmen just want to rip them all out and replace with plastic (although I
know cast-iron effect is an option, it feels like an act of cultural vandalism
on an 1880s house!) I need to act swiftly as scaffolding is due to come down
at the end of the week!


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1007200-.htm

[harry]

On Tuesday, 5 September 2017 13:14:05 UTC+1, Celebration wrote:
replying to Lobster, Celebration wrote:
So Lobster, interested in how this story ended: what did you did and are you
happy with the result?
I'm in a similar position, two front drainpipes in need of TLC but the local
tradesmen just want to rip them all out and replace with plastic (although I
know cast-iron effect is an option, it feels like an act of cultural vandalism
on an 1880s house!) I need to act swiftly as scaffolding is due to come down
at the end of the week!


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1007200-.htm

2014???!!!

[Brian Gaff]

Yes it was a while ago. I'm sure back in the old days we used to repair such
pipes at least temporarily with car body repair kits then paint them the
same colour as the pipe!
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"harry" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, 5 September 2017 13:14:05 UTC+1, Celebration wrote:
replying to Lobster, Celebration wrote:
So Lobster, interested in how this story ended: what did you did and are
you
happy with the result?
I'm in a similar position, two front drainpipes in need of TLC but the
local
tradesmen just want to rip them all out and replace with plastic
(although I
know cast-iron effect is an option, it feels like an act of cultural
vandalism
on an 1880s house!) I need to act swiftly as scaffolding is due to come
down
at the end of the week!


--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1007200-.htm

2014???!!!

[GB]

On 05/09/2017 17:50, Brian Gaff wrote:
Yes it was a while ago. I'm sure back in the old days we used to repair such
pipes at least temporarily with car body repair kits then paint them the
same colour as the pipe!
Brian


It's always the back of the pipe that rusts, where you can't get to it.
Is that sod's law at work, or is it because it's usually not painted
there/stays wet longer/some other reason?

[Lobster]

harry grunted in
:

On Tuesday, 5 September 2017 13:14:05 UTC+1, Celebration wrote:
replying to Lobster, Celebration wrote:
So Lobster, interested in how this story ended: what did you did and
are you happy with the result?
I'm in a similar position, two front drainpipes in need of TLC but
the local tradesmen just want to rip them all out and replace with
plastic (although I know cast-iron effect is an option, it feels like
an act of cultural vandalism on an 1880s house!) I need to act
swiftly as scaffolding is due to come down at the end of the week!

2014???!!!

But Lobster's still alive and kicking though...

God was that three years ago? At the time I needed an instant solution
to stop the damp, and just sleeved the cracked pipe with a small strip of
heavy-duty (green!) polythene sheeting to stop the water getting to the
house wall, with a view to sorting it out properly when the warmer, drier
weather arrived. But guess what - I'm embarrassed to say that three
summers later it's STILL there! One day I'll get round to it

One tip you might want to consider... we had an extension built on our
house about 15 years ago, and were very keen to make the old and new
match up. The builder ended up nicking some of the old cast-iron
guttering from the back of the house (replacing it with similar-looking
plastic stuff), and using it on the front of the house to extend the
original guttering seamlessly on to the extension. Might be something
worth considering if you have drainpipes round the back which are in
better nick?

David

[Bertie[_2_]]

replying to Lobster, Bertie wrote:
We supply steel epoxy sticks which can be used like plasticine, then set rock
hard, and can be sanded etc.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1007200-.htm

[[email protected]]

On Thursday, 28 March 2019 18:14:03 UTC, Bertie wrote:
replying to Lobster, Bertie wrote:

We supply steel epoxy sticks which can be used like plasticine, then set rock
hard, and can be sanded etc.

It was 1.5 years ago, Lobster has probably been eaten by now.
Lots of places supply epoxy putty. Can't say I've had great results with it.


NT

[ARW]

On 28/03/2019 18:14, Bertie wrote:
replying to Lobster, Bertie wrote:
We supply steel epoxy sticks which can be used like plasticine, then set
rock
hard, and can be sanded etc.

You need a time machine.

--
Adam

[Brian Gaff]

However there was a more recent thread about this from somebody else only
about two months back.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 18:14, Bertie wrote:
replying to Lobster, Bertie wrote:
We supply steel epoxy sticks which can be used like plasticine, then set
rock
hard, and can be sanded etc.

You need a time machine.

--
Adam

[alan_m]

On 29/03/2019 09:01, Brian Gaff wrote:
However there was a more recent thread about this from somebody else only
about two months back.
Brian


Yep, and I used two part filler (actually it was wood filler but the
same as car body filler). Removed existing paint, drilled a hole to stop
the crack progressing, applied filler, sanded down and spray painted
using rattle cans. It stopped the leak.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

[newshound]

On 28/03/2019 20:05, ARW wrote:
On 28/03/2019 18:14, Bertie wrote:
replying to Lobster, Bertie wrote:
We supply steel epoxy sticks which can be used like plasticine, then
set rock
hard, and can be sanded etc.

You need a time machine.

What, to take the pipe back to when it wasn't corroded?

:-)