[Gareth[_5_]]

I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about 8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?

[Lieutenant Scott]

On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 16:39:38 -0000, Gareth wrote:

I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about 8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?

How can water circulate the wrong way when a valve is closed at one end of the radiator? You need two openings to allow the water to move.

--
http://petersparrots.com
http://petersphotos.com

Top Tip. If someone shoves your feet in a fire, quickly put your head in a bucket of iced water. On average, you will be pretty comfortable.

[harry]

On Dec 17, 4:39*pm, "Gareth" wrote:
I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about 8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?


Some thermostatic valves can't be turned off if the room is cold.
It could be that a motorised valve may not be closing off properly.

[thirty-six]

On Dec 17, 4:39*pm, "Gareth" wrote:
I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about 8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

Sounds like you are without a bypass loop in your heating circuit.
Thermostatic radiator control valves do not necessarily have a
positive shut-off positon and those will lift given sufficient
pressure from the circulating pump.


If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

[Gareth[_5_]]

"thirty-six" wrote in message
...

On Dec 17, 4:39 pm, "Gareth" wrote:
I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating
is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of
them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about
8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

Sounds like you are without a bypass loop in your heating circuit.
Thermostatic radiator control valves do not necessarily have a
positive shut-off positon and those will lift given sufficient
pressure from the circulating pump.


If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

Thanks guys for the replies - much appreciated.

This last comment about keeping the rad nearest the boiler on all the time
has made me remember something I had forgot.

When we moved in the previous occupant had left an instruction sheet with
the boiler saying one radiator must be left on full all the time (the one in
the bathroom nearest to the boiler). Why would this be?

You've said the same thing. Does opening that radiator reduce the pressure
flowing in to the other radiators?

[hugh]

In message , Gareth
writes
"thirty-six" wrote in message
...

On Dec 17, 4:39 pm, "Gareth" wrote:
I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central
heating is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of
them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve -
about 8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

Sounds like you are without a bypass loop in your heating circuit.
Thermostatic radiator control valves do not necessarily have a
positive shut-off positon and those will lift given sufficient
pressure from the circulating pump.


If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

Thanks guys for the replies - much appreciated.

This last comment about keeping the rad nearest the boiler on all the
time has made me remember something I had forgot.

When we moved in the previous occupant had left an instruction sheet
with the boiler saying one radiator must be left on full all the time
(the one in the bathroom nearest to the boiler). Why would this be?

You've said the same thing. Does opening that radiator reduce the
pressure flowing in to the other radiators?
AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in the
room which contains the room thermostat.
However the OPs problem is that radiators are still heating up even when
the heating is switched off but the hot water is on. This suggests as
someone has already said that a motorised valve is not switching
properly.
--
hugh

[harry]

On Dec 17, 6:11*pm, "Gareth" wrote:
"thirty-six" *wrote in message

...







On Dec 17, 4:39 pm, "Gareth" wrote:
I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating
is
turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of
them -
when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about
8
of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

Sounds like you are without a bypass loop in your heating circuit.
Thermostatic radiator control valves do not necessarily have a
positive shut-off positon and those will lift given sufficient
pressure from the circulating pump.

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance to
pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

Thanks guys for the replies - much appreciated.

This last comment about keeping the rad nearest the boiler on all the time
has made me remember something I had forgot.

When we moved in the previous occupant had left an instruction sheet with
the boiler saying one radiator must be left on full all the time (the one in
the bathroom nearest to the boiler). Why would this be?

You've said the same thing. Does opening that radiator reduce the pressure
flowing in to the other radiators?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There should be a bypass valve fitted to the heating circuit next to
the boiler. As radiator valves close down, this valve opens as the
pressure rises.
May be this hasn't been fitted.
This sort of thing.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-...lve-22mm/34127

[ARWadsworth]

thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this newsgroup.

--
Adam

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"hugh" ] wrote in message
...

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in the room
which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.
What is needed is an auto bypass valve.

However the OPs problem is that radiators are still heating up even when
the heating is switched off but the hot water is on. This suggests as
someone has already said that a motorised valve is not switching properly.
--
hugh

[thirty-six]

On Dec 17, 8:12*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. Forgot to take a pill?

[harry]

On Dec 18, 12:57*am, thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 17, 8:12*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. *Forgot to take a pill?

It was a pretty stupid comment. I think there has been stupider
though.

[thirty-six]

On Dec 18, 9:14*am, harry wrote:
On Dec 18, 12:57*am, thirty-six wrote:









On Dec 17, 8:12*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this newsgroup..

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. *Forgot to take a pill?

*It was a pretty stupid comment. I think there has been stupider
though.

Worse than worthless.

[Moonraker[_2_]]

On 18/12/2011 09:59, thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 18, 9:14 am, wrote:
On Dec 18, 12:57 am, wrote:









On Dec 17, 8:12 pm,
wrote:

thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. Forgot to take a pill?

It was a pretty stupid comment. I think there has been stupider
though.

Worse than worthless.
When the rad thermostats were supplied they should have had a cap. If
you have these, remove one of the thermostats and place the cap on,
screwing down firmly, this will completely shut off the radiator.
Incidentally should you ever wish to take a radiator off without
draining the system do this other, wise turning off the valve (as is the
case with you) does not necessarily turn off the flow completely, even
if it does it may turn itself on in the dead of the night, I got caught
out this way once.

--
Residing on low ground in North Staffordshire

[Dave Liquorice[_3_]]

On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:17:30 -0000, dennis@home wrote:

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in
the
room which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.
What is needed is an auto bypass valve.

Which is another bodge on the bodge that didn't fit a room stat to
prevent the boiler short cycling once the house is up to temperature.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[JohnW]

On 18 Dec, 11:19, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:17:30 -0000, dennis@home wrote:


Typical bodge made by plumbers.
What is needed is an auto bypass valve.

Which is another bodge on the bodge that didn't fit a room stat to
prevent the boiler short cycling once the house is up to temperature.

--
Cheers
Dave.

I thought the auto bypass valves were more to allow a sink of heat for
the boiler when the motorised valve closed, and would still be needed
even if one rad had no TRV, as there would be no circulation path for
the pump overrun.

John

[geoff]

In message
,
harry writes
On Dec 18, 12:57*am, thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 17, 8:12*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. *Forgot to take a pill?

It was a pretty stupid comment. I think there has been stupider
though.

Your post about how flame sensing works, for example


--
geoff

[ARWadsworth]

thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 17, 8:12 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this
newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. Forgot to take a
pill?

If you need me to explain it then you really should not be posting about
CH:-)



--
Adam

[ARWadsworth]

dennis@home wrote:
"hugh" ] wrote in message
...

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in the
room which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.

Another one to add to the book.

hugh was correct.

--
Adam

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
"hugh" ] wrote in message
...

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in the
room which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.

Another one to add to the book.

hugh was correct.


Another typical ARW cockup!
Nobody said hugh was wrong.

[ARWadsworth]

dennis@home wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
"hugh" ] wrote in message
...

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in
the room which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.

Another one to add to the book.

hugh was correct.


Another typical ARW cockup!
Nobody said hugh was wrong.


You thick ****.

Either learn how to reply to a post using English or carry on making
yourself look like a steaming great ****.

--
Adam

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
"hugh" ] wrote in message
...

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in
the room which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.

Another one to add to the book.

hugh was correct.


Another typical ARW cockup!
Nobody said hugh was wrong.


You thick ****.

Either learn how to reply to a post using English or carry on making
yourself look like a steaming great ****.

More proof that ARW can't read.

[thirty-six]

On Dec 18, 8:34*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 17, 8:12 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on all
the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this
newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. *Forgot to take a
pill?

If you need me to explain it then you really should not be posting about
CH:-)

--
Adam

It's the workings of your mind I'm not clear about.

[harry]

On Dec 18, 1:08*pm, JohnW wrote:
On 18 Dec, 11:19, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:17:30 -0000, dennis@home wrote:

Typical bodge made by plumbers.
What is needed is an auto bypass valve.

Which is another bodge on the bodge that didn't fit a room stat to
prevent the boiler short cycling once the house is up to temperature.

--
Cheers
Dave.

I thought the auto bypass valves were more to allow a sink of heat for
the boiler when the motorised valve closed, and would still be needed
even if one rad had no TRV, as there would be no circulation path for
the pump overrun.

John


No, the bypass valve is not a bodge.

To work properly, the boiler needs a constant volume of water going
through it. The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant
pressure.

This almost enables these conflicting requirements to be met.

[Dave Liquorice[_3_]]

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 01:01:44 -0800 (PST), harry wrote:

Typical bodge made by plumbers.
What is needed is an auto bypass valve.

Which is another bodge on the bodge that didn't fit a room stat
to
prevent the boiler short cycling once the house is up to
temperature.

I thought the auto bypass valves were more to allow a sink of heat
for
the boiler when the motorised valve closed, and would still be
needed
even if one rad had no TRV, as there would be no circulation path
for
the pump overrun.

No, the bypass valve is not a bodge.

To work properly, the boiler needs a constant volume of water going
through it.

Only more modern low water content boilers. Our floor standing lump
of cast iron with 12 gallons of water in it doesn't care a two hoots
about being turned off at full chat.

You only need an auto bypass valve if the boiler needs pump over run
and there is no path for that flow due to a motorised valve under
control of a room stat or no rad without a TRV. Even with a motorised
valve if you have a HW cylinder and three port valve the HW cylinder
will provide the heat dump for any required pump over run.

A blanket "fit a an auto bypass valve" is a bodge in that some
systems do not require one, either because the boiler doesn't need
one or because there is a inherent heat dump available.

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

--
Cheers
Dave.

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...


The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining path.
If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.
It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which makes
condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.
An alternative is a variable head pump that slows down.

IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.
If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the radiator can
be turned off by another means.
If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.

[thirty-six]

On Dec 19, 9:32*am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:


The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

Only in that it makes balancing the sytem quicker.

[Dave Liquorice[_3_]]

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 02:19:27 -0800 (PST), thirty-six wrote:

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant
pressure.

Why?

Only in that it makes balancing the sytem quicker.

Which, when doing the balancing it will have, as all the TRV heads
will be removed otherwise you'll end up chasing your arse as they
shutdown or open up.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[Dave Liquorice[_3_]]

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 10:13:02 -0000, dennis@home wrote:

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant
pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining
path. If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.

"if" and "unlucky"...

It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which
makes condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.

Are there an non-modulating condensing boilers? And waste energy just
like a bypass valve does if fitted when not required or without a
means to shutdown the boiler when the house is warm.

IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.

IMO "you must have a bypass valve" is just beacuse of inadequate
understanding of the system(s). Starting with the fact the boiler
might not need pump overrun.

If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the radiator
can be turned off by another means.

I take it you mean manually. On that vein what is to stop some fiddle
fingers winding the bypass pressure right up? One can't cater for
idiots...

If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.

Just like a system with a bypass valve and no means of shutting the
boiler down when the house is warm.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 10:13:02 -0000, dennis@home wrote:

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant
pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining
path. If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.

"if" and "unlucky"...

It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which
makes condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.

Are there an non-modulating condensing boilers? And waste energy just
like a bypass valve does if fitted when not required or without a
means to shutdown the boiler when the house is warm.

See comment at end.


IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.

IMO "you must have a bypass valve" is just beacuse of inadequate
understanding of the system(s). Starting with the fact the boiler
might not need pump overrun.

It might not, but a pump working into infinite load may cavitate and will
waste energy.


If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the radiator
can be turned off by another means.

I take it you mean manually. On that vein what is to stop some fiddle
fingers winding the bypass pressure right up? One can't cater for
idiots...

Most auto bypass valves don't go high enough to shut off the flow from a
pump.


If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.

Just like a system with a bypass valve and no means of shutting the
boiler down when the house is warm.

So?
Who said fitting other controls wasn't required?

[thirty-six]

On Dec 19, 10:40*am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 02:19:27 -0800 (PST), thirty-six wrote:
The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant
pressure.

Why?

Only in that it makes balancing the sytem quicker.

Which, when doing the balancing it will have, as all the TRV heads
will be removed otherwise you'll end up chasing your arse as they
shutdown or open up.

--
Cheers
Dave.

After all radiators have been initially flow adjusted there is still a
need to go back and check that they are performing according to the
system design. A second adjustment is probable when an auto-bypass is
not fitted. When there is only a minor adjustment to be made after a
complete system check, then it may be assumed that the rest of the
system will remain within tolerance. The auto-bypass, and a preset
one is about 16quid, saves the need to even perform the first system
check after the initial adjustment.

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk[_2_]]

On 17/12/2011 16:39, Gareth wrote:
I posted a while ago about radiators heating up when the central heating
is turned off but just the hot water is turned on (conventional boiler).

I've realised that the radiators are also heating up - almost all of
them - when their thermostatic valve is switched off.

It seems too much of a coincidence that every thermostatic valve - about
8 of them - could be faulty.

Does this sound like a reverse circulation problem?

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much disturbance
to pipe work?

Even when one circuit is shut off water can conduct heat just because
it's water.
When our shop became a 2nd zone off the heating circuit in the flat
above they plumbed the return from the shop into the closest return from
the flat. When shop zone was off by zone valve the Myson hi-line shop
fan heater would still fire up sporadically by simple conduction of
water in the Flat's return line raising temp high enough to cause
internal thermostatic fan to trigger.

Plumber had to come back an run a new return line for shop zone right
back to boiler to sort the problem.

Perhaps balancing the radiators accurately to significantly reduce the
amount of water that has access to conduct heat back in from the return
might help rather than the usual idea of trying to let TRV's sort
everything out?

Cheers
Pete

--
http://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - Fitness+Gym Equipment.
http://www.bodysolid-gym-equipment.co.uk
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk
http://www.water-rower.co.uk

[harry]

On Dec 19, 9:32*am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 01:01:44 -0800 (PST), harry wrote:
Typical bodge made by plumbers.
What is needed is an auto bypass valve.

Which is another bodge on the bodge that didn't fit a room stat
to
prevent the boiler short cycling once the house is up to
temperature.

I thought the auto bypass valves were more to allow a sink of heat
for
the boiler when the motorised valve closed, and would still be
needed
even if one rad had no TRV, as there would be no circulation path
for
the pump overrun.

No, the bypass valve is not a bodge.

To work properly, the boiler needs a constant volume of water going
through it.

Only more modern low water content boilers. Our floor standing lump
of cast iron with 12 gallons of water in it doesn't care a two hoots
about being turned off at full chat.

You only need an auto bypass valve if the boiler needs pump over run
and there is no path for that flow due to a motorised valve under
control of a room stat or no rad without a TRV. Even with a motorised
valve if you have a HW cylinder and three port valve the HW cylinder
will provide the heat dump for any required pump over run.

A blanket "fit a an auto bypass valve" is a bodge in that some
systems do not require one, either because the boiler doesn't need
one or because there is a inherent heat dump available.

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

--
Cheers
Dave.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As the rad valves close off, the pressure rises. this tends to defeat
the action of (especially thermostatic) valves and can lead to noises
in the sytem.
Also the balancing of the system is unaffected by valves opening/
closing.
The bypass valve relieves this pressure.

It also allows a constant flow of water through the boiler. Reduced
flows can lead to hot spots in the boiler, sludge settlement and
reduced efficiency. There is an optimum flow for each boiler design.

All of the above is the main reason why all this stuff us pre-
installed inside the boiler cabinets these days.

[harry]

On Dec 19, 10:13*am, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message

ll.co.uk...

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining path.
If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.
It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which makes
condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.
An alternative is a variable head pump that slows down.

IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.
If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the radiator can
be turned off by another means.
If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.

I think the "always have a radiator on" myth comes from the days of
solid fuel boilers when there always had to be a convection heat sink
to stop overheating if a control problem/pump failure arose.

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Dec 19, 10:13 am, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message

ll.co.uk...

The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining path.
If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.
It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which
makes
condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.
An alternative is a variable head pump that slows down.

IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.
If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the radiator
can
be turned off by another means.
If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.

I think the "always have a radiator on" myth comes from the days of
solid fuel boilers when there always had to be a convection heat sink
to stop overheating if a control problem/pump failure arose.

That is probably true, however I think a towel rail was a better sink to
use.

[ARWadsworth]

dennis@home wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
"hugh" ] wrote in message
...

AIUI it is normal to have one radiator without a TRV, the one in
the room which contains the room thermostat.

Typical bodge made by plumbers.

Another one to add to the book.

hugh was correct.


Another typical ARW cockup!
Nobody said hugh was wrong.


You thick ****.

Either learn how to reply to a post using English or carry on making
yourself look like a steaming great ****.

More proof that ARW can't read.

That's rich coming from the window licker that cannot read a German Road
Atlas.

--
Adam

[ARWadsworth]

thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 18, 8:34 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 17, 8:12 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
thirty-six wrote:

If so is there a way of fixing it without causing too much
disturbance to pipe work?

Take the conrol head off the rad nearest the boiler, so it's on
all the time, and control its actual output with a towel.

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on this
newsgroup.

--
Adam

Explain your need for this ridiculous outburst. Forgot to take a
pill?

If you need me to explain it then you really should not be posting
about CH:-)

--
Adam

It's the workings of your mind I'm not clear about.

That does not surprise me as I have a working functional brain and you do
not have anything to compare it with.


--
Adam

[hugh]

In message om,
"dennis@home" writes


"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ill.co.uk...


The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining path.
If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.
It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which
makes condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.
An alternative is a variable head pump that slows down.

IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.
If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the
radiator can be turned off by another means.
If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.


If you turn the radiator off your are a ****wit and get what you
deserve.
--
hugh

[dennis@home[_3_]]

"hugh" ] wrote in message
...
In message om,
"dennis@home" writes


"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
hill.co.uk...


The radiators/remainder of heating system needs a constant pressure.

Why?

Because the water will flow faster and faster through the remaining path.
If you are unlucky it will make it noisy.
It also results in a lower temperature drop across the radiator, which
makes condensing operation more difficult and wastes energy.
An alternative is a variable head pump that slows down.

IMO the "you must have a radiator always on" is just because of the
inadequate control systems fitted.
If you only have one room stat then you lose all control if the radiator
can be turned off by another means.
If you turn the radiator off the heating will run when it isn't needed.


If you turn the radiator off your are a ****wit and get what you deserve.

I think you would be surprised by how many people don't know what the
relationship between the room stat and the radiator is.